Revell 1/48 Chinook Hc.1 - 99% complete

[Jakub Cikhart]

Hi mate,

here are three pics of this helo in that anniversary camouflage:

But, the best is this (building THIS exact helo in this camouflage from Gulf war):

Few small notes from my ongoing build, check this page:

Chinook build

It mainly focuses on Gulf war Chinooks, but some info will be helpful for you.

Here is a shot of the fuselage with puttied holes and first layer of Surfacer:

If you want more info or smth else, do not hesitate and contact me here or by email.

Jakub from Prague, the Gulf war freak

[TonyT]

More of it

http://www.airshaw.co.uk/page177.html

http://www.airshaw.co.uk/page178.html

Tony

I used to work on it when it was on the OCU, before Wez and Co mucked about with them

[andy wood]

Bugger, soundproofing looks like it is what is needed to cover the areas - have I ever mentioned that I hate the idea of scratchbuilding soundproofing??? :-)

Take some foil, and rub it over the soundproofing already moulded on the kit. Cut to size and fit. Simples!!!! Am really impressed at the advice being given by the the knowledgable members here. This site sort of negates having to buy books for references, eh?

Edited January 11, 2010 by andy wood

[avro683]

Deffo black, the whole 9 yards, the only things that might have been different colours would be the seat cushions and the control unit to a system tha wasn't fitted to 671 anyway.

The seat cushions could be black, grey or buff but mostly black, the lumbar pad was black but sometimes dark olive green - everything else black.

Wez

I concur with that. I've tried to take pics of the one at the RAF Museum at Hendon but there's too much reflection.

Tony

[LopEaredGaloot]

Harvs73,

Your buildup sure looks nice.

Since it looks like Italeri is taking their own sweet time, other than the AAR probe and the FLIR/TA radar sensor fit, can you make an MH-47E from a CH-47D or HC.1 kit?

In particular, I keep reading things like 'more fuel tankage in the sponsons' and am left wondering if this makes them bigger. If so, given the way the fuselage is set up, are we ever likely to see a 48th SOAR aircraft?

Thanks- LEG

[TonyT]

Here you go, an open plan cockpit so you can see the colours

Though the seats may be coloured brown for other reasons....... they all survived

http://www.chinook-helicopter.com/history/...4/84-24174.html

there is a SOAR one out there is there not??? A Revell one I think, tanks are bigger, if you cannot find them, someone was doing a 1/35th conversion, may be able to find the thread on home pc

[Harvs73]

Thanks all for your help. I have now managed to find enough photos of the anniversery scheme to enable me to do a reasonable rendition of the antennas etc. The foil idea is a good one, makes it easy to represent the sound proofing!

Here are a few more in progress images:

I am doing a little scratch building in the rear area and have put a cover over the second hell hole. I have yet to repaint the grey area after putting in the yellow/green paint. I have also drilled out the litening holes around the ramp area.

Here I have started to work on the wiring and pipes with a long way to go with the paint job on them. So many different colours here that it could take me a little while to finish it.

I am going to remove the two control panels and put in the foil soundproofing to cover the avionics and heater areas. I am also going to do a bit more weathering in the cockpit. I don't want to get too involved in doing up the cockpit as I don't beleive that much of it will be seen due to the canopy, this also goes for the cargo bay despite me planning on having the side door and ramp open.

I find it funny that Revell have included the decals for the fire extinguishes in the cargo are but not the extinguishes themselves - tossing up whether to build up some or not.

[periklis_sale]

looking good mate!

[Andrew]

More great progress, Dave.

Thanks to your thread, I've enhanced my knowledge of RAF Chinooks and your build is inspiring me to drag out the reference and my smaller Trumpeter kit.......

Cheers,

Andrew.

[Harvs73]

I had a look at the italeri HC.1 I have in the stash today and would you beleive that it had a reference book in it as part of the boxing that had heaps of images of the interior etc that I was after! This includes images of the cockpit and shows where they got the pilot seats from as the kit seats are a reasonable rendition of the images provided. The weird part is that the Revell kit has the correct main rotors but the Italeri kit doesn't. It doesn't matter as the Italeri kit is going to be an Australian C model anyway so it needs the older blades I beleive.

Edited January 15, 2010 by Harvs73

[TonyT]

First RAF Chinooks were metal bladers as well.

[nimrod77]

Another question for the fun of it. On the Revell wall near the avionics bay (left hand side looking from tail) there are two control boxes mounted to the wall, are these correct for a HC.1? If the soundproofing goes over the avionics bay do these two boxes interfere with it or does the cabling coming from them just go under the edge of it?

I was contemplating how to do the soundproofing and I was figuring on just cutting out some card them putting a layer of putty on it. When it was semi dry I would just use the edge of a piece of card or something to make the lines in it thus forming the soundproofing.

PS - thanks for the info gents

Have a look at this stuff to make your covers.

You can roll it out flat and then press the pattern into it. Armor modelers do this to make tarps and such.

[Harvs73]

I have managed to make some progress but have run into a problem. In the photo below you will see that there is a large space between the sides of interior and the rear wheel sponson area. By the look so fit when you add the ramp actuator there should be a plate that goes over the top of the actuator tht hides the gap and renders the interior as per the reference images. I can't seem to find a plate in the instructions or on the sprue so the actuator will be left uncovered and the gap on show. I guess I will have to scratch build something else now!

Here are some other images of the sidewalls and roof aftre a bit of painting and weathering. I have tried a bit of yellow/green interior paint for some damage to the ramp area as per a reference image I have seen.

I am also going to be putting a panel on the bracing struts I built in the rear hell hole on the roof, but no wiring at this stage as I am not being that energetic.

[Harvs73]

I worked out that Revell / Italeri had messed up the ramp area walls and had added a cross beam where there wasn't one and left one out that was there. They had also missed out on a bit of extra detail around the ramp area. I am not getting too far into the detailing/correcting the area as I want to finish this in the next few weeks so I have only done a little of what is needed.

Here I have removed the incorrect cross beam and added in some card to cover the ramp actuator. I should have done some lightening holes on the card but it was too late at night and I was not really concentrating. I have yet to glue the end of the card as I will do that when the roof is on and the exterior is attached so the angle is correct. The gap I had around the wheel sponson was covered with some angled card and painted over. Not the most elegant fix (ok it's a bit rough as well) but good enough considering not much will actualy be able to be seen when it is all together.

Here is the semi completed interior with most of the seats glued in. These needed some care with the angle of the back as the seats in the real one are attached to a continuous piece of tubing at the top against the cabin wall according to the reference images I have found/been given.

Here is the completed cockpit. I have used Humbrol 67 Panzer Grey for the scale black and have done a few bits in matt 33 black for contrast. It doesn' look that dark in the images but in real life it looks ok.

Edited January 19, 2010 by Harvs73

[tonyot]

I`ve got a pair of Italeri Chinooks to build a Mk.1 and a Mk.2 and am really enjoying this thread. Could somebody please help and clear up exactly which rotor blades I need for each one...ie which one has a flat edge to the rotor and which has the angled edge?

Whilst on exercise in Germany I flew in the 7 Sqn Anniversary aircraft which you are building here and have a rather poor photo somewhere which I`ll try and dig out. A year or so later I nearly fell out of a Chinook through the hole in the floor where the Loadie was keeping an eye on a Scorpion tank hanging below us...I used to have nightmares about that and always wondered whether I`d have managed to cling onto the tank or not on the way down!!! I have actually fallen out a Chinook in flight on another occasion but thankfully with a parachute on this time and out of the ramp door!!

Regarding the cockpit......was this painted at a later date when NVG`s became more readily available in order to cut down glare? Seem to remember the floor up there being scuffed grey with grey seats.....but could well be wrong!

All the best

Tony O

[TonyT]

The blades you want on all of them, both MK 1 and 2 is the plastic ones, ie with the chamfered top edge from the blade to the spar up near the head. The metal blades 9flat edge and thinner) were used only on the very first HC1's on 240 OCU and the Earliest 18 Sqn.. The towel rail aerial that was initially between the two centre cabin windows relocated up to the aft pylon about the same time. The cockpit floor was black, the very first chinook was NVG compatible, the cockpit lighting etc being developed for the RAF one..... it was a Chinook C/D missmatch, as items from the future D were incorporated into the C for the RAF..... The fact it was a "seedy" variant was not missed on us all

I was on the OCU at the start having transferred over from the Wessex/Puma side of the OCU and onto the Chinook part when they arrived.

One of our metal bladed original HC1's, note the faired in fuel tank top edge and the towel rail aerial in front of the bubble window, early OCU had the badge behind cockpit. the also arrived with the rear interior fully panelled in in light grey plastic type material with the odd clear window in it, the same as is still over the APU, though it was removed soon after.

http://www.skonk.net/main.php?g2_view=core..._serialNumber=1

Early plastic blader HC1 of 18 sqn, towel rails now up on fwd aft pylon, faired fuel tanks, no RWR aerials yet as pre Falklands

http://www.skonk.net/main.php?g2_itemId=94...ageViewsIndex=1

Early 18 Sqn HC1 metal blader

http://www.skonk.net/main.php?g2_view=core..._serialNumber=1

Early plastic blader HC1 Post Falklands wearing the RWR aerials on the nose and the back end

http://www.skonk.net/main.php?g2_view=core..._serialNumber=1

David looking good, the bit over the door to the cockpit was soundproofed as well, above the bit over the radio access to the left there was a little panel with para lights and a bell, also adjacent to the fwd window uit had a red fire extinguisher mounted high up. on your roof trim the squares with the recessed circles in it were lights so want picking out with a little white in the circle. looking good

Edited January 20, 2010 by TonyT

[tonyot]

Thanks for the info Tony and for those fantastic photos which illustrate your point superbly!

All the best

Tony O

[Harvs73]

David looking good, the bit over the door to the cockpit was soundproofed as well, above the bit over the radio access to the left there was a little panel with para lights and a bell, also adjacent to the fwd window uit had a red fire extinguisher mounted high up. on your roof trim the squares with the recessed circles in it were lights so want picking out with a little white in the circle. looking good

Tony, I was contemplating doing the soundproofing to those areas but worked out that they would not be seen when the interior was assembled completely.

I'm not impressed with the Revell instructions (step 25/26) as they tell you to open up holes in the fueslage that are not required for the acft. The instructions do not show the holes being used and on the images of the real acft there is nothing there either.

[Harvs73]

It's been a while now since the last update but I have managed to get a bit more done now. The fueslage interior has been fitted to the outer shell and the base plate put on. I have also worked out the antenna's that need to be fitted and have drilled the holes for those in the bottom plate. The bottom plate takes a bit of care to ensure that it fits properly and despite me thinking I had done this, it was out by a fraction. So I had a small amount of filling to do on my stuff ups and a bit where the kit did not fit properly.

I have also ALMOST succeeded on the main warning I had been given about this kit - getting the bottom flat so the under carriage all touch the ground together. I have only the starboard rear leg that is a fraction off the ground when conducting a trial dry fit and I reckon that it is fixable.

Here I have trial fitted the main blades:

This is the bottom of the fueslage after I have filled and sanded down the excess and rescribed some of the panel lines. I have still to attack it with the finer wet and dry to get rid of the deeper sanding marks and the ridges from the rescribing:

My next task is to paint the main rotor blades but am unsure on the best colour to paint them to achieve a scale effect. I don't want to paint them matt black as that would be too stark but I also dont' want to go for Panzer Grey again as it is too light in my opinion. I am contemplating matt black and grey or dark blue to take the edge off the black - any thoughts?

Edited January 28, 2010 by Harvs73

[Harvs73]

After a considerable time of filling, sanding, refilling and resanding I have finally managed to get somewhere with this model. I am needing to go a bit faster now as I have to complete this kit, a 1/48 PR9 Canberra and hopefully the 1/48 TSR2 by the first week of March so they can all go to the local toy and hobby fair at the importers table.

Here is the prgress to date:

The intakes on the roof are not clearly marked by Revell as to where they should go. The ones either side of the spine should be at least 10mm away from the spine so the non-slip walk way decal will fit. Unfortunately I don't think this is the correct distance on the real aircraft.

The worst fitting parts of the WHOLE kit. The engine modules need some serious filling around the base to blend them in whilst the bit on the front needs to be fitted to the mounts on the fueslage as it doesn't fit properly. I also need to trim the joint where the intake nozzle (for want of a better word) actulay joined the engine mount as this didn't fit properly and contributed to the poor fit of the nozzle to fueslage mount.

The cockpit glazing also needed some filler to make it blend in.

I needed to insert a piece of card at the top of the windscreen to fill a gap that I could not fix by moving the whole glazing around.

The ramp has two strakes along the edges, the kit supplied parts (D41)are two long and needed to be trimmed back. The arrow is pointing to the chunk I cut from each part.

I am planning to paint it in Humbrol Hu 163 Dark Green and Hu 164 Dark Sea Grey with a black underneath.

[Enzo the Magnificent]

My next task is to paint the main rotor blades but am unsure on the best colour to paint them to achieve a scale effect. I don't want to paint them matt black as that would be too stark but I also dont' want to go for Panzer Grey again as it is too light in my opinion. I am contemplating matt black and grey or dark blue to take the edge off the black - any thoughts?

Try Tamiya XF69 NATO Black.

[Harvs73]

The decals are now done and I am in the process of fixing all the antenna and other delicate bits. The light blue decal around the tail is one long piece of decal sheet.

Once it is all dried I will be giving it a light weathering then a matt coat to seal it all in. I know the ECM things out the side are pointing down instead of up but by the time I realised the instructions were wrong they were on too well and not coming off.

[TonyT]

Looking good Dave, see the 3 wedges on the top of the cabin, one on the transmission tunnel just aft of the centre walkway at the front, they want to bee picked out on the top with a yellowy white oblong, they are formation lights, there are some on the top aft pylon too. The ECM things are chaff/flare dispensers and as you said are the wrong way up the idea was the rotor downwash would disperse the Chaff.

[Metallicus]

WoW really nice paint job, looks great nice scheme!

[Andrew]

Looks great, Dave.

The scheme is very well done and will look the business when finished. Keep it up.

Cheers,

Andrew.