F111Fan Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Right, I have questions here. I have a Canberra B(I)8 in 1/72 ready for decaling. What varnish should i apply before decalling? I keep reading about Klear but don't know if that's for the final matt varnish or for the gloss for decalling. Also, what is the best matt varnish to finish it? And any major suppliers I can buy from in the locale near Wigan or Manchester (e.g. Modelzone-I'd prefer to buy from a shop because i dont like internet ordering!) Thanks for any info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Klear is a gloss coat, and excellent for pre-decal, normally a couple of coats, but depends how absorbent the paint is, you want a nice smooth finish. After decals another coat of klear will seal it all in. For Matt coats, I use a Windsor and Newton artists spray, however I expect others will have other suggestons. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Kunac-Tabinor Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Hi Tom - Klear is a gloss floor varnish ( "wax') which should be able to find in your local hardware or supermarkets stores. The formula has been changed recently in the UK and its now a milky fluid, which some modellers say isnt as good as the older clear version. if you can find the older stuff then buy that. If not I think you can safely use the newer stuff as enough people seem to have reported no problems for it to be given a cautionary OK. Anyway, in my opinion the best way to use it is to pour some form the bottle into a small bowl, and use a big soft brush to paint on a layer, nice and wet, but avoiding it running. Let this dry ( it doesnt take very long) and then see how glossy the finish is. Most modellers find they need 2 perhaps 3 layers to get a good glossy finish ( it depends on how matt oyur paint was to start with , and what kind of paint it is). If you think you need a 4th or 5 th coat - go for it; there's no hard or fast rule on this. Once its dry - again its touch dry very quickly - in minutes sometimes - but you should perhaps leave for at least 24 hours to harden off, you can apply your decals. You can use a decal setting system like Microscales 2 part system, or Gunzes similar, but Revel and Humbrol both make decal setting solutions, which you can find in modelzone etc. the decal setting solution basically lets the decal film bed down onto the glossy paint, conforming to the model and pulling the decal into panel lines etc. The glossy finish helps this because uits nice an smooth and the finish mimmicks the decal finish too, so you are applying like onto like. Once you have decalled you model, some modellers will apply another layer of Klear to seal in the decals and give an overall gloss to the model - which will level out any differences between your decals and the rest of the paintwork. This is up to you. Personally sometimes I do, sometimes I dont. Now to apply a final finishing varnish to your model. if you want gloss - use Klear. Easy. If you want a good matt finish which isn't quite dead, dead flat, then I would recommend a trip to your local Games Workshop. Buy a can of their "Purity Seal". Its a spray varnish that I have found gives very good results. Like all spray cans it helps if you put the can in a jug of very warm water for about 5 minutes before use, to warm up the contents and make them spary better. Then shake the living bejeesus out the can, and put it back in the hot water for another minute. Take it out, wipe off water with a towel ( you dont want drops of water on your model when you spray), and then you can spray a coat onto your model. Do a couple of light coats, then for the final coat - slightly heavier until it looks "wet" and leave to dry ( actually I just spray till its looks wet in 1 go and leave, but then I'm a bit woo a bit eee:) ). There are other matt and semi matt varnish you can use, but as you are after an easily available one - I think the "purity seal" is the best there is off the shelf. Like all varnishes, you should try the Klear and the Purity Seal on some scrap plastic or a spare "dont care" model fist. firstly to get used to using them, and second just to make sure you dont have a bad can or arn't comfortable using them confidently on your latest pride and joy. I hope this is of use, please do send me a PM if you want more info. Only to glad to help. Cheers form snowy Oxford Jonners Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F111Fan Posted January 6, 2010 Author Share Posted January 6, 2010 thanks for all that guys-there's a games workshop in wigan, which is handy! Muchly appriciated guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Dan~ Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Thanks. Good tip about the purityseal, I haven't heard this before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deon Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Ill second the GW purity Seal gives a lovely Matt / Eggshell finish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Good tips from Jonners... if you don't want to use a rattle can though, Vallejo matt or satin varnish makes a good alternative, and is available from MZ, which is where I bought mine Just dilute it with distilled water, and away you go. The matt gives a very nice finish if you mist it on, and it dries quite quickly, so you can soon apply some more without having to reload your airbrush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F111Fan Posted January 6, 2010 Author Share Posted January 6, 2010 Mike the only problem I have with the vallejo stuff is that I don't have an airbrush! Can anyone advise me on a wide brush for applying the klear? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 I just got a wide sable-hair brush from an art shop, they have ranges from 8mm up to about 25mm, think I got 14mm. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousAA74 Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 If you are only in Wigan, I know Morrisons in Bolton still has the old formula Klear available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F111Fan Posted January 6, 2010 Author Share Posted January 6, 2010 If you are only in Wigan, I know Morrisons in Bolton still has the old formula Klear available. Brilliant! I'll clean them out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F111Fan Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 (edited) Update-I got my purity seal today, but the Wigan store had no Klear due to stocking issues (and I can't get to Bolton cause of issues with trains)-DAMN SNOW. :shithappens: Ah well, they said maybe next week-there's hope for the Canberra yet! Edited January 9, 2010 by Vulcanboy607 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-james- Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Tom, pick me up some Klear if you can get it please and ill pay you when i next see you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F111Fan Posted January 9, 2010 Author Share Posted January 9, 2010 Tom, pick me up some Klear if you can get it please and ill pay you when i next see you Will do, I should be getting it from Bewleys hardware in the next couple of weeks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark M Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Mike the only problem I have with the vallejo stuff is that I don't have an airbrush! Can anyone advise me on a wide brush for applying the klear? Thanks! they do a rattle can version which is spot on, thats all i use now for matt or satin varnishes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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