Klear - Where am I going wrong?!

[Neilroy]

Hello all,

This is my first post on the Britmodeller forums! After having a ham-fisted go of it as a kid, I've recently decided that I'd get into modelling with a degree of seriousness. Seeing as virtually every source I can find on the subject sings the praises of Johnsons Klear, I decided to equip myself with some and go about coating my first build pre-decaling. It's an ancient Airfix 1/48 FA2 SHAR that I've been working on in dribs and drabs for goodness knows how many years since I was about 12! Through grown up eyes I can now see its a poorly moulded kit, ill-fitting and scarred, but it's a real labour of love nonetheless.

Anyway, the vast majority of modelling threads/sources that I've read suggest that Klear can be brush-painted on, and left to dry to a pristine, streak-free finish. This was not my experience, however! I used a brand new flat brush, ~1cm wide, but was left rather traumatised by the fact that the Klear went on with about a million air bubbles in it, which then proceeded to dry to a not-so-attractive 'chicken pox' finish with the bubbles still in the varnish

I've also read that Klear is self levelling and dries flat, so on my next attempt I put less on the brush and took it slowly. Annoyingly, it still dried with glaring streaks and clearly visible brush strokes, and appears anything but flat and even.

I'd really appreciate it if anyone who has encountered and overcome this problem could give me some advice on where I might be going wrong. Once I'm over this hurdle, pics of the completed beast will follow!

All the best,

Neil

[pigsty]

Unfortunately, bubbles are inevitable with a brush, but they're easy to cope with - just blow them out immediately after you've applied the Klear. This means, of course, applying it in small bits.

As for brush strokes, I suspect the problem on your second attempt was that you were applying too little a time. A denser coat provides more volume for the fluid to self-level into - without a bit of pressure, it's surprisingly reluctant to move onto a matt surface, so you need to give it somewhere to go. The risk then is that you'll put on too much, and it will puddle if you're not careful. Keep a piece of tissue paper handy to wick off the excess and this problem should be minimised.

I'm afraid all of this means you're in for a bit of trial and error - but it does work in the end.

[Mike]

You're not using the new version of Klear are you? Just checking, as I believe that stuff's not fit for the job. It's a milky white color in the bottle...

I don't brush on Klear myself, but I believe that with a very matt finish, you'll need to put on a couple of coats to get shot of the mattness (is that a word?).

[pigsty]

to get shot of the mattness (is that a word?).

'tis now!

[Neilroy]

Excellent, thanks guys. I've just started my first "real" job after leaving University, so unfortunately I don't have the funds or space for a decent airbrush setup right now. It's definitely something to aim for though.

And no, I'm using the original version of Klear in the see-through bottle - I've read about the apparent shortage of the stuff, but there's still a plentiful supply in the Gosport branch of Morrisons supermarket for any modellers who live down south!

Edited October 7, 2009 by Neilroy

[AdriaN (MLT)]

Neilroy, i too tried brushing Klear. it bubbled for me. the reason was i shook the bottle before, creating bubbles which were carried onto the brush. if you see bubbles rebrush them slowly. i also had the problem of the matt painting absorbing the Klear. first round & the klear didnt even show after drying. i continued layering it and it got thicker and glossier but still no even finish, brush marks still showed up! i havnt airbrushed it yet... i dont have ammonia :/

[AnonymousA667]

Klear is absorbed into matt finishes like water in a sponge and may require several coats before it comes up anything like gloss. If you're brushing, load a small amount into the widest, flattest brush you have and cover with one pass only. If you find it is pooling wick off the excess with a dry brush or the corner of some paper towel. Air bubbles can be dealt with in the same manner. If you still end up with any bubbles or rough spots you can polish them out with the fine abrasive or sanding sticks and then buff the whole lot up with some old denim.

peebeep

[Stonar]

My tuppence worth,leave plenty of time between coats. A second coat of Klear effectively removes the first unless it is well cured. I always brush it and agree with above. Be aware that, if you get a bit carried away, any excess can pool on the surface opposite the one to which you are applying your Klear.

Best of luck with it.

Steve

[pictoplasma]

Hello Neilroy,

the anwser is an airbrush. search on Ebay. great deals to be had. also here is a link for you about using floor polish [that's if you haven't seen it]

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

[zero]

Hello Neilroy,

the anwser is an airbrush. search on Ebay. great deals to be had. also here is a link for you about using floor polish [that's if you haven't seen it]

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

I use a cheap aztek 1000s airbrush for spraying klear, it works a treat and no major expense either. however the trick is very, very light coats and leave it. Just clean well after use.

good luck

Dave

PS

Edited October 7, 2009 by zero

[Mentalguru]

How it can it be so difficult??!!

I used Klear only at the weekend. Long handled flat soft brush, dip in unshaken bottle, big long strokes in direction of airflow, if too much, just brush off excess, leave it glossy- then LEAVE IT!

It's that simple- really.

Matt paint- WHY use matt paint if you want it to go glossy-- this is a real "DERRRR" modelling moment.

I would hasten a guess that maybe if Klear is used over Matt, then it will cover and trap microscopic air bubbles far more easily than Gunze or similar- (God's chosen paint.)

These bubbles maybe then "gang up" and sort of join together until the largest suddenly pop in to view...?

[Julien]

Matt paint- WHY use matt paint if you want it to go glossy-- this is a real "DERRRR" modelling moment.

Maybe because thats the only paint you have? me I use lifecolour as I really like it and thats matt. Takes no time to gloss up for decalling.

I will agree it does take a few coats to get nice and glossy but its all part of the process.

Julien

[tedtaylor]

Neilroy, i too tried brushing Klear. it bubbled for me. the reason was i shook the bottle before, creating bubbles which were carried onto the brush. if you see bubbles rebrush them slowly. i also had the problem of the matt painting absorbing the Klear. first round & the klear didnt even show after drying. i continued layering it and it got thicker and glossier but still no even finish, brush marks still showed up! i havnt airbrushed it yet... i dont have ammonia :/

you don't need ammonia use windowlene or spray away airbrush cleaner

[zero]

Matt paint- WHY use matt paint if you want it to go glossy-- this is a real "DERRRR" modelling moment.

I never buy paint other than by the colour I want now. I lightly Klear coat everything to decal it, then use klear again to seal and use tamiya flat to obtain the type of finish I need, ie un-diluted for total gloss, 90% klear/10% flat for a satin finish, and 70/30 for a matt coat.

If your going to use a Wash, then remember to do it after the decaling, and before the second coat.

Dave

Edited October 7, 2009 by zero

[Stonar]

How it can it be so difficult??!!

Long handled flat soft brush, dip in unshaken bottle, big long strokes in direction of airflow, if too much, just brush off excess, leave it glossy- then LEAVE IT!

Exactly,and you don't have to clean an airbrush!

[speedy]

I never use an airbrush for Klear (can't be arsed cleaning it afterwards). I use the softest brush I've got and paint away. You must put loads on though, or immediately it will bubble on you. Oh and as mentioned above - PATIENTS.