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Which Liquid Cement would you recommend?


PDH

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Iv always used revell glue. its the one with a needle. it glues well and smells... quite good, unlike tamiya extra thin and MM!! they STINK of poison!

Hi, on the subject of smell, can anyone advice a thin cement like MEK and similars which can be used in a small home with kids?

Would appreciate any help.

Thanks

Fabio

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Hi, on the subject of smell, can anyone advice a thin cement like MEK and similars which can be used in a small home with kids?

Would appreciate any help.

Thanks

Fabio

Should be ok in moderation with LOTS of ventilation :)

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MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone.) It's what Mek-Pak used to be, before a "carcinogenic" panic took hold (it isn't.) Available, usually in 1 litre cans, from plumbing suppliers, and I have a local supplier of chemicals, from whom I buy 5 litres at a time. Flammable? Yes. "Harmful? Yes. Toxic? No. Life-threatening? No.

Edgar

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I can confirm that Tamiya Extra Thin Cement isn't supposed to be imported into the UK as the labelling does not meet EU requirements

So what that means is, because the warning label is written in Japanese and not English, then we're all gonna go and drink the stuff or use it as eyewash, right? :doh:

Children, don't drink glue. Glue's bad, mmm'kay. :ike:

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Should be ok in moderation with LOTS of ventilation :)

Oh, sorry for not being more precise: I meant I'm in search of something not so smelly, even if it could be safely swallowed (and I know it can't be) MEK has an horrendous odour to the other members of the family...

Fabio

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Oh, sorry for not being more precise: I meant I'm in search of something not so smelly, even if it could be safely swallowed (and I know it can't be) MEK has an horrendous odour to the other members of the family...

Fabio

I think that most plastic cements have a pretty strong smell of one sort or another, I could be wrong, but I don't think you can get an oderless one.

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I think it is a chemical element that isn't listed or something - either way, it cannot be officially imported along with some other Tamiya goodies.

Presumably that's what's keeping the spray paints out of the country as well?

John

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I think that most plastic cements have a pretty strong smell of one sort or another, I could be wrong, but I don't think you can get an oderless one.

I agree, in fact I never asked for an odorless one. I only seeked for some advice on a glue not so smelly as MEK but equally effective...

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thank very much for all the recommendations. the input was extremely helpful. Have now bought some Tamiya Extra Thin and can see why its rated so highly. I'll get some Mr Cement at the the next Yeovilton and see what that's like. Also bought some Humbrol for the less important areas.

Next I need to look at paint ........... acrylic v enamal v ? and then which brand. Got a feeling this will be a lot more difficult!

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EMA Plastic Weld is also superb, however the tall thin bottle it comes in is less than ideal as it's just asking to be knocked over when open - spilling it's entire contents on to your working area....

Karl

Yep, that happened to me. Took the surface finish off my cutting mat.

I also find it is good for getting dried paint out of paint brushes - but don't leave it to long as I don't think it does the bristles much good.

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  • 6 years later...

For when a really strong bond is required - particularly between different types of plastic - this modelmaking guy in the US is recommending an epoxy glue "Plastic Fusion" 15277 from Superglue. Sets in 5-10 mins. 4000PSI.

Mentioned at 8:20
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3gabIJ3Ono
"This stuff is absolutely amazing... IMPOSSIBLE to pull apart once cured."

More
http://www.supergluecorp.com/?q=super-glue/epoxies/plastic-fusion

"This acrylic based Industrial Strength product dispenses resin and hardener automatically into equal parts with one push. Hold surfaces together with clamp, tape or weights allowing 5-10 minutes setting time. Works well on plastic toys, fixtures made of plastic, metal, concrete and many other materials. Cures to an opaque light yellow color."

Slight shame about the colour, but has anyone here tried it?

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extra thin, if not, then Mr cement- every bit as good

Fwiw, this guy says Mr Cement S makes less mess because it dries faster.

P.S. Some people say that it smells worse however!

Edited by ship69
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MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone.) It's what Mek-Pak used to be, before a "carcinogenic" panic took hold (it isn't.) Available, usually in 1 litre cans, from plumbing suppliers, and I have a local supplier of chemicals, from whom I buy 5 litres at a time. Flammable? Yes. "Harmful? Yes. Toxic? No. Life-threatening? No.

Edgar

Same here. Just use it in a well-ventilated room. I generally pour some into a small bottle, such as an empty but clean paint jar, with a lid with a good seal. Keep it sealed when not in use. Apply with a good quality, small paint brush to seams and let capillary action do the rest.

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OK, I have just done a few experiments, testing the speed of evaporation of drops of similar sizes if fluid, testing between EVA Plastic Weld / Tamiya Extra Thin / Mr Cement S.

It turns out that Mr Cement S is MUCH faster to dry then Tamyiya Extra Thin and it literally dries in half the time - maybe less. Perhaps surprisingly even though it is more volatile Tamiya Extra Thin seems to bond more aggressively than Mr Cement S. However the big surprise (for me) is that EVA Plastic Weld evaporates is even faster than Mr Cement S, and has a bite about the same as Tamiya Extra Thin.

The other big surprise to this newbie is just how crucial it is, for all the glues, to actually sand down (or file) your edges following a snapping off cut. Bonding results were universally terribly weak if you don't do this!

Evaporation Speed results:

1. EVA Plastic Weld

2. Mr Cement S (5-10% slower than EVA)

3. Tamiya Extra Thin (100+% slower than EVA)

The Winner:

Given that EVA Plastic Weld seems to do just as good a job as Tamiya Extra Thin at actual sticking, if you want speed it seems that EVA Plastic Weld is the winner.

Btw, anyone know for sure what's actually in all these cements? e.g. Rumour has it that EPA Plastic Weld uses MEK but is that all that's in it...?
Several people are talking about using MEK but I can't work out if i need to buy something else or whether I am already doing so by using EPA Plastic Weld.

[Now to vent my workshop before I pass out!]

OP

P.S.

I've not measured the all-important actual strength yet mainly because I am told that it may take up to "1-2 days" to reach full strength, and if I start testing in anything less than that, presumably the fast evaporating cements would have an unfair advantage.

P.P.S.

This is a distraction really, but I was in a huge rush in the shop and I tried to buy some "super glue" / CA (CyanoAcrylate) to quickly tack down styrene whilst putting all the cement in place.

Instead I accidentally bought a gel called "Serious Glue" from Evo-stik. (product details). Have any of you tried it for anything? Apparently it is a "moisture curing, Modified Silane (MS) Polymer" based adhesive that is powered by "MS-technology" (whatever that is). And "cures to form an elastic rubber, with almost no shrinkage and low hazard; it does not contain any water or solvent".

It is also "Re-positionable for 3 minutes, fully set in 2 hours, max strength 24 hours."

So nothing like fast enough to be of user to tack things down but conceivably the strength may be good ?? In truth I suspect it may be very useful for bonding non-like with like.

Edited by ship69
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Damn! I just bought some "Slater's MEK-PAK" thinking it was going to be made from MEK. However I just read on a forum that it contains Trichloroethane and not MEK !

Is this true? And if so, where can I buy some genuine MEK?

thanks

OP

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