Tizzy Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 I am about to start my first all resin kit which is a Magna Hunting Percival Sea Prince.I have some experience of using resin as part of after market kits,but i've never built an entirely resin kit before.So i could do with some tips. I am aware that resin dust is nasty stuff,and i will be very careful when sawing and sanding.I am also aware of the need to wash the kit parts to remove mould release residue,before painting.But apart from that i'm fairly clueless. Which is the best glue to use.I want a glue that will allow a few minutes to work with,not one that makes an instant strong bond. How do you get rid of the join lines between fuselage halves etc.I know the resin wont melt like plastic.So what do you use and how do you use it. I've heard about the pin holes you find on resin mouldings,but i've never encountered any.How do you detect these holes,and how do you fill them. Finally,anything else i should know about before i start. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigsty Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 I am about to start my first all resin kit which is a Magna Hunting Percival Sea Prince.I have some experience of using resin as part of after market kits,but i've never built an entirely resin kit before.So i could do with some tips.I am aware that resin dust is nasty stuff,and i will be very careful when sawing and sanding.I am also aware of the need to wash the kit parts to remove mould release residue,before painting.But apart from that i'm fairly clueless. Which is the best glue to use.I want a glue that will allow a few minutes to work with,not one that makes an instant strong bond. How do you get rid of the join lines between fuselage halves etc.I know the resin wont melt like plastic.So what do you use and how do you use it. I've heard about the pin holes you find on resin mouldings,but i've never encountered any.How do you detect these holes,and how do you fill them. Finally,anything else i should know about before i start. Thanks. Glue: epoxy's good, or slow-curing CA. Join lines: if it's a gap, the usual fillers will generally work. If it's a lip, also the usual: sand, check, fill, sand, check, fill... Pin holes: resin is fairly shiny so, like all flaws, they'll show up best under a matt coat. But you can spot them before that by looking along parts to see where the light catches them. Fill: the usual stuff, again. The smallest respond easiest to CA. Resin dust: I'm sure I've read that the problem isn't the fact that it's polyurethane, it's the particle size. Which means that we ought really to be protecting ourselves against all sanding residues. Anyone confirm this? So, a Magna kit, eh? I have two now and they could best be described as slightly rough. Are any of your parts bent like bananas? My Attacker is. And can you find your white metal parts among all the flash? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Resin dust: I'm sure I've read that the problem isn't the fact that it's polyurethane, it's the particle size. Which means that we ought really to be protecting ourselves against all sanding residues. Anyone confirm this? Read about safety here: http://ipmscanada.com/safety.html This is an interesting read for all modellers HTH Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigsty Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Read about safety here:http://ipmscanada.com/safety.html This is an interesting read for all modellers HTH Andy Eff me! That's the last time I go near the study! But it looks as though the main problem with sanding is the method, not the material - power tools require greater caution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tizzy Posted July 24, 2009 Author Share Posted July 24, 2009 Glue: epoxy's good, or slow-curing CA.Join lines: if it's a gap, the usual fillers will generally work. If it's a lip, also the usual: sand, check, fill, sand, check, fill... Pin holes: resin is fairly shiny so, like all flaws, they'll show up best under a matt coat. But you can spot them before that by looking along parts to see where the light catches them. Fill: the usual stuff, again. The smallest respond easiest to CA. Resin dust: I'm sure I've read that the problem isn't the fact that it's polyurethane, it's the particle size. Which means that we ought really to be protecting ourselves against all sanding residues. Anyone confirm this? So, a Magna kit, eh? I have two now and they could best be described as slightly rough. Are any of your parts bent like bananas? My Attacker is. And can you find your white metal parts among all the flash? On first inspection the kit looks rough,but nothing bent.It is the only game in town for a Sea Prince,which will be a difficult hole to fill in my Culdrose collection otherwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdriaN (MLT) Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Wait so our model kits... are made of resin or plastic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little-cars Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Wait so our model kits... are made of resin or plastic? Both are types of plastics. Injection moulded kits, the mass produced ones are normally referred to as plastic. Resin kits are short run hand made piceses of polyurathene resin. The resin is a mix of two liquids, that solidity in a mould. Here is an example of a multimedia kit. The car body, wheels and rear wing are resin. Engine and exhaust is white metal and the details are photo etched metal. marsh models dn1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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