Jump to content

1:32 Lockheed EC-121K Constellation/Warning Star


Recommended Posts

Whoah, wait.. Hang on a mo.. ARE THOSE PISTONS????

Yup - can't claim credit there - that's Zoukei-Mura. Personally I think it's overkill!!

Iain

I have been following this impressive build. Iain, I thought you might like to read about Yanks Air Museum`s EC-121 Super Constellation Flight the link is here: https://yanksair.com/ynarticles/detail/Yank...nnie-Flight/74/ In case you missed it.

Regards

Terry

Cheers Terry - hadn't seen that!

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it's a shame you had problems with your moulds, that happened to me once, another think that went wrong making moulds was to use old rubber, the effect of that was the rubber tightly adhered to the peace, be careful with that, look forward for more progress

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fortunately the rubber has finally gone off!

So - plasticene removed from the engine block/cylinder mould and minor tweaks made in preparation for pouring the second half of the mould.

As the gearbox casing mould was single part I thought I'd do a quick pour - result below - almost flawless copy :)

re2005596.JPG

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Planned fly out to Bruntingthorpe to see the Lightnings/Cold War Jets canceled due to weather - so spare day to fettle stuff!

So - in further moulding progress we now have all four gearbox casings:

re2005597.JPG

And second part of the engine block/cylinder mould prepped and poured (those white tubes will form the pour stubs when casting):

re2005598.JPG

re2005599.JPG

Those are rising air bubbles - all should have dissipated by time rubber cures...

Right - off to do some Lightning stuff :)

Iain

Edited by Iain (32SIG)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers guys! :)

I expect to see it in the flesh one day!

Erm - so do I!! :deadhorse::P

Well - in a repeat of last weeks panic over slow curing rubber it looks like it's repeated itself - rubber still not gone off properly! :(

At least it finally cured last week - so there's hope that more patience will pay off (was hoping to cast some engines this afternoon) - but suspect my rubber's a bit past it!

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Iain, which of Sylmasta's rubbers are you using? I've used both the 370 & 380 grades so far and not had any problems with it curing (only user error where I did the rubber pour and only realised I'd not actually fixed the masters to the bottom of the casting box when I tried de-moulding them). Yours look a bit on the light side colour-wise, do you add your catalyst by volume or weight? I've been weighing mine in and (as a pleasant surprise) it's cured perfectly each time, generally closer to 20 hours than 24. I do wish they'd supply slightly more than the exact accurate amount of catalyst though, I always seem to end up with a tiny amount that won't come out of the plastic pipettes.

G.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hiya - it's the 380...

Am running at 5% catalyst by volume (to be fair - it does say by weight!) and had no probs before. The colour is darker blue than appears in the photos...

Rubber was bought at Telford in 2010 though - so not the freshest!

Anyhoo - it went off - and I've separated everything tonight. Unfortunately not enough mould release so the rummer bonded itself together in places. Did a quick test shot and have the basics of something useable - but may have a go at a better mould.

Will report back.

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is THE best introductory post I have ever read. EVER.

:worthy: well done Lt Dayan and welcome!

Absolutely the very best - and as with this inspired poster, I too am not getting any younger - the original posts on this build started when I rejoined the modelling world, and I am now 51 ...... :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I too am not getting any younger - the original posts on this build started when I rejoined the modelling world, and I am now 51 ...... :D

Nag, nag, nag... ;)

And, yes, best intro post ever and really nice to have people with real experience of these beautiful aeroplanes looking in.

Doesn't help with my guilt at such slow progress though :blush:

All I will say is I haven't seen any others being built! :)

<wanders outside with Connie and some sunshine - back later>

Iain

Edited by Iain (32SIG)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Been casting engines - with mixed results...

The shapes are complex and I'm not up and running yet with a pressure chamber - so a few air bubbles - and large voids on the upper surface in the mould as there's nowhere for trapped air to go.

With hindsight it would have been easier to keep the Skyraider masters as separate halves and just poured halves at a time into open moulds.

Still - after a bit of thunking I've decided to sand each moulded part to half thickness and join the resulting halves - and soort out the rocker covers later:

re2005617.JPG

re2005613.JPG

re2005614.JPG

re2005615.JPG

re2005616.JPG

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Iain, something I've found useful for dislodging the air bubbles from the mould & also the resin is a cheap disposable electric toothbrush. I built a mount for one across the top of my mould box (gotta love Lego!) and leave it running for 35-40 mins after pouring the rubber. It's worked a treat so far on the 3 moulds I've used it on. For the resin pour, I set the brush running then inject the resin into the mould - it seems to be quite effective at shaking any bubbles left in the resin loose. I find that using a Monoject curved-tip syringe helps in cutting down on bubbles in the resin too.

G.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now there's an idea...

The rubber moulds are pretty good - it's getting the resin to flow the hard part - especially as the highest point on the cylinders (upper part of the mould) are above the point at which the resin enters. I've toyed with adding risers from these points (you should be able to see the voids in the castings in one of the pics) - but suspect it's too late now - although tempted to put that half of the mould in the freezer and try drilling).

The 'bench' sander and two halves route looking most promising atm...

Iain

Edited by Iain (32SIG)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK - cunning plan - risers where I'm getting voids...

Had a bit of cured rubber left in plastic pot from mould making and found I could get a neat hole made in the rubber using sharpened brass tube and a hammer (drills no good - they just tear and no neat hole).

So - back to the mould:

re2005619.JPG

Other section done after this photo - and smaller rod used to puch down through the base mould from the rocker covers.

Well - resin poured - we'll see:

re2005620.JPG

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...