plimsol Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 should brass or steel PE be annealed as a matter of course? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julien Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 It makes it easoer to work, but you dont have to do it if you dont want to. Julien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest les Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 sometimes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avro683 Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 Personally I don't as my disability could produce catastrophic results if I did. I do find that natural heat through my fingers helps but I have to give the brass a good wash afterwards to get rid of the grease! Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 Sometimes I do, and sometimes I don't, depending on what I'm doing with the brass. If it's just a straight forward fold, I usually don't bother - particularly if the part is quite large, as I'd rather keep the structure more rigid & less prone to bending if possible. If it's a complex job with a number of bends & possibly some curves too, I'll anneal it. Horses for courses Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Sworld Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 Just to jump in here.... but what do you use to anneal the PE? I have a gas soldering iron kicking around that can be used as a flame jet if needs be. Would that work or would it be too hot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye's Hobbies Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Frey Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 As Gerald illustrates, a candle works great. I learned the hard way, taht after heating your metal, you shouldn't try to rush the cooling process by running the part under water. I tried to bend the part, and it snapped. It seems tempering and annealing are two different things.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian1 Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Sometimes I do, and sometimes I don't, depending on what I'm doing with the brass. If it's just a straight forward fold, I usually don't bother - particularly if the part is quite large, as I'd rather keep the structure more rigid & less prone to bending if possible. If it's a complex job with a number of bends & possibly some curves too, I'll anneal it. Horses for courses Mike's expressed it exactly - it depends entirely on the size of the piece and what you intend doing with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonofjim Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 (edited) I like mike look at the application of the etch and see what it requires i only ANEAL if its a complex part the requires rolling bending to compound curves etc... i do always sandthe parts mating surface and painting surface if its free of raised detail to improve glue/paint adhesion . and i do spometimes heat the metal gently and briefly not so it glows though ,on smaller parts to get rid of any photo agents etc... , Edited April 20, 2009 by sonofjim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadahead Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 (edited) Just come across this thread and I would endorse all the above comments, especially that annealing is only required for curved parts. Though I personally temper the part after I have got the required shape, just re-heat to red heat and immediately quench in cold water. This 'sets' the shape and returns the metal to its original hardness. This achieves two things. It removes any tendency the part might have to spring back to its original shape and makes it easy to handle as it is much harder to distort. I make a few machine guns for 1/32 and 1/48 biplanes which have perforated tubes around the barrels and found out the hard way how easy it is to put dents in them if you don't quench them Edited December 23, 2010 by deadahead Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denford Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 On 4/20/2009 at 3:56 AM, Tony Frey said: As Gerald illustrates, a candle works great. I learned the hard way, taht after heating your metal, you shouldn't try to rush the cooling process by running the part under water. I tried to bend the part, and it snapped. It seems tempering and annealing are two different things.......... 9 Years on and Photobucket is no longer available. I have an an electric hotplate and also a gas soldering iron. Which would you recommend? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 Can the gas soldering iron be used without a tip? - as a mini-blow lamp/torch? if not, I'd use a tea-light candle, which I have done on small sheets of p/e Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhoenixII Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 @Denford as @Black Knight has suggested, use a tea light. Also, even though I'm preaching to the converted? please hold the etch frame with a pair of insulated pliers, your fingers will love you forever! Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayprit Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 I just turn to my gas cooker...…………….turn one of the hobs on and watch for the colour change...………...been doing it for over 30 years without problems...………….as above, I always use insulated pliers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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