decal softner

[kevsterjw]

C

Edited June 2, 2009 by kevsterjw

[Mike]

Quite a few available. Micro Sol & Micro Set, from Microscale Industries, Mr Mark Softer & Set from Gunze, and Daco medium & strong decal solutions all spring to mind. I'm currently a fan of the Gunze offerings, but having tried the Microscale solutions, they also work. I've not used the Daco ones, but I believe they're good too

[Mike]

Are these the kind of products that will make the surround of decals less obvious so that it looks like paint?

To a certain extent, yeah although it depends a lot on the thickness of the carrier film.

If you apply the decals to a glossy surface, and use softening/setting solutions, that should minimise the chances of silvering of the decal, which is tiny trapped air bubbles that give the carrier film a silvery appearance. Apply the decal onto a puddle of solution, position it, flatten it down to expell excess liquid (I roll a cotton bud over mine), and then apply a little more solution - then leave it. don't worry about wrinkling that appears while it's drying... those will go eventually

[AnonymousA667]

Another option is to apply the decals onto wet Klear. Leave them overnight and they will conform perfectly to the surface, there is little or no possibility of carrier film silvering and after an additional coat of Klear they will appear to be painted on. I still have setting solutions to hand, but haven't used them for some time.

peebeep

[Pielstick]

As Mike said, there are a few options available. The Microscale Set and Sol solutions are readily available from quite a few suppliers in the UK, and I have had very good results with them in the past. I think the Microscale solvent will struggle to deal with some of the thicker decals. The Gunze solutions I think are a little stronger than the Microscale ones, although they are very hard to get hold of from a UK source (I got mine on Ebay from a seller in Hong Kong). Finally, I believe the strongest decal solvent solution you can get is Solvaset, which is very useful for getting really stubborn decals to settle down. However, be careful as Solvaset is really quite strong and if you put too much on it will ruin the decal!

peebeep also has a very good suggestion about using Klear. I have used this many times in the past with great success - I found it was perfect for using on the old Revell decals that had a huge carrier film, ALWAYS silvered and never responded to any solutions However, there is a downside to using Klear - with setting solutions you have more time to position the decal before you apply the solvent. With Klear it's a one shot deal, as once that Klear starts to dry that's it!

My preferred method now is to airbrush two or three coats of Klear onto my model and then apply the decal using Micro Set, using a cotton bud with a rolling action to gently push the decal down onto the surface. I then apply Micro Sol. If the decal doesn't respond to the Micro Sol I get the Gunze Mr Softener out, if it doesn't respond to that I get the Solvaset out Keep applying the solvent in light amounts until the decal has really settled down over the surface (this can take a few or many applications of the solvent solution depending on the decal and the shape of the surface it must conform to). I then *GENTLY* wipe the surface with a soft and slightly damp cloth to remove any residue from the solutions before spraying another coat of Klear to seal the decals in.

[Jon Kunac-Tabinor]

Hi kev - 1 thing to add to the splendid advice already proffered. Which ever decal solution you choose, try it on spare decal first as some solutions can be too strong for the decal make you are using.

Did I say 1 , make that 2 Once you start using the solution - the decals WILL wrinkle and look horrible. DONT PANIC ( copyright douglas adams) and for gawds sake dont try and do anything with them. They will flatten out and do what you want them to as they dry. Its a nervy time I find, but, courage mon brave and those decals will look painted on. If they dont flatten out - thats what point 1 was for - you know the solution is too strong for the decal.

As a general rule of thumb I find the microscale/ superscale solutions work very well for most decals. The Gunze Mr Mark Softer is more aggressive - so i use this as the fallback option. It was designed for japanese model decals ( ie hasegawa, Tamiya etc)- which used to be thicker than most - hence the extra Oomph.

You also find the that using the decal setter in conjection with the decal softener - which you apply fist works a lot better than just using the softener post application.

Cheers and let us know how you get on

Jonners

[Dave Gibson]

Another option is to apply the decals onto wet Klear.

peebeep

I tried this once and ended up replacing the decals. I've heard about the technique a few times, so it must work. How's about a quick tutorial?

Mayboe my mistake was in mopping up the excess Kleer with a tissue.

Dave.

[Pielstick]

Paint some Klear onto the area the decal is to be applied. While the Klear is still wet apply the decal and move it into the correct position. Finally paint some more Klear over the top of the decal.

Whatever you do don't touch the decal once the Klear starts to dry! Don't try to mop up or remove any excess clear! Just leave it until the Klear has fully dried, and you should find the decal has been pulled down over the surface detail and is now sealed by the Klear.

There's a few gotchas that you should be wary of:

i) Don't put too much Klear on as it will run.

ii) The Klear doesn't really soften the decals like a solvent solution does, this means it's not so great for getting them to conform to complex shapes and bumps. If you try this with Klear you will almost certainly end up with creases or wrinkles.

iii) It's a one shot deal - if you mess up your decals will be ruined and you will have to find a way of stripping the Klear to remove the decal.

Having said that, it is guaranteed to work with pretty much any brand or make of decal. I had great success using Klear on the old style Revell decals that always used to be a nightmare. You also won't need to gloss coat your model before decalling (although you still might want to do this if you are going to apply a panel line wash).

Hope this helps.

[Filler]

I’ve read all the above and it’s very helpful but I’m still not quite clear as to the exact procedure for applying decals. I have the Gunze products. Am I right in thinking that you soak the decal in water, slide approximately into place with a soft brush or cotton bud, apply Mr Mark Setter onto the decal and make the precise adjustments to the positioning? And then if necessary, apply Mr Mark Softener to ensure it settles down into any panel lines? Do you just mop up excess setter with a cotton bud before applying Mr Softener or do you leave it to dry before applying the softener? And Mr Setter appears to be white. Is that normal?

[galgos]

I've been experimenting tonight on a gash model but using Microset and Microsol. I watched the Brett Green video on YouTube (Testor's workshop) last night. He puts the decal into water (containing a drop if washing-up liquid) for a short while then takes it out to soak. While this is happening, he applies some Microset to the area where the decal is going. When the decal is ready to slide off, he puts the decal in place on the model and gently dabs with a kitchen tissue to soak up moisture and to firm the decal in place. Once the decal has dried, he carefully brushes Microsol over the decal - the scary bit is that it makes the decal wrinkle, but as it dries it tightens out to a smooth finish which follows the surface of the model well.

Hope this helps

Max

[Filler]

Cheers Max, that helps a lot. I'll check out that video too (never thought to check You Tube).

Since my post yesterday I've also decided to go with the Microscale products instead of the Mr Gunze ones I'd already bought as everyone seems to think that they are a bit too aggressive. Having said that, I've also read that Tamiya, Hasegawa and especially Academy kit decals often need the stronger stuff due to being notably thicker.

[sonofjim]

mike what happened to the original post by kevsterjw ????

looks like hes edited out all his other too ? bar one perhaps ????

[maltadefender]

I've bought some Revell Decal Soft and it's none too clear (Klear?!) on the correct method of applying it. Do I use water to place the decal in the traditional style and then paint it on as it dries or paint it on the area where the decal is to be positioned beforehand?

Any guidance gratefully accepted as I really don't want to mess up!