JamesP Posted August 16 Posted August 16 (edited) This kit is going to be built for this year's CBK SIG display at SMW where we are hoping to shine a light in all the different CBK manufacturers including the cottage industry that came after the big three's light had started to fade in the mid 80's. The kit come in their standard unassuming blue box, but given how large the Scimitar is, it's rammed full. Like many such manufacturer's Skybirds'86 was one-man-band operation but this guy had a multitude of engineering skills so we get plastic from Al moulds, PE, white metal, acetate IP, die-cut sheet, and a vacforum canopy. The model is based on plans drawn up using measurements from surviving airframes as he states that existing plans were unreliable. The instructions are largely written and much has been made of that these need to be follow to the letter due to the engineering of the kit. However I think is as much the overcome the limitations of the manufacturing of which he is more than forth coming about. The plastic parts are very thick, but with very fine surface detail, I will probably go over this so it's not lost. I believe the parts were mould individually so not sprue just some large stubs used to help manually pull them from the mould. Edited October 7 by JamesP 16 1
Planebuilder62 Posted August 16 Posted August 16 Hi James. The plastic used is very hard so big tools are needed when fettling the parts together. Regards Toby 1 1
JamesP Posted August 17 Author Posted August 17 19 hours ago, Planebuilder62 said: Hi James. The plastic used is very hard so big tools are needed when fettling the parts together. Regards Toby I’m always prepared. To be honest it’s not any harder than many Japanese kits, it’s just a lot thicker. 9
marvinneko Posted August 17 Posted August 17 6 hours ago, JamesP said: I’m always prepared. Another fan of metal files 1 2
JamesP Posted August 17 Author Posted August 17 2 hours ago, marvinneko said: Another fan of metal files Indeed, I still use the set of needle files I bought in 1990, and only recently added a few additions when some English files came up for auction. The big #2 b*st*rd I've been using for the last few years and soon quells any unruly kit. 1 1
JamesP Posted August 17 Author Posted August 17 A couple of stressful days at work were alleviated by cleaning up the plastic parts with files. Following the instructions for the general assembly, I was able to gauge how it would all go together. The tape couldn't hold the weight if the metal exhausts. I did have to remove some warp from the centre fuselage halves and also the out wing panels using hot water, a possibility that is mentioned in the instructions. The wing root is worthy of note. The root of the wing halves forms a thin rectangular section of the fuselage, that fits into a gap in the lower fuselage half. Apart from general clean the rear fuselage halves need the base of the fin reducing because as mould its about twice the thickness of the fuselage spine. The projections from the rear of the main fuselage halves also need to be shorten to allow the rear to butt up. Both these operations are pointed out in the instructions. There are a couple of additional issues that need to be addressed. Firstly the nose section is not deep enough, this is not just a matter of reducing the main fuselage halves as they match the metal intake lips. Secondly the port wing is both 1mm longer than the starboard but also a 1mm further forward, the combined error is quite apparent. I split the upper wing centre section and offset them slightly. I also canted the rear out a tad so the wing port root aligned better. The die-cut wing fences (too tall, take 1mm off the inside edge) are meant to be trapped between the wing centre section and the outer this is nice idea but leads to some tricky shaping as the centre sections panels are slightly too long. I think it would be easier to just fit the wings and cut the fence slots afterwards. At this point I realised one inner wing panel was also too thick and need 0.5mm removing from the inner surface. All these adjustments took their toll and some filling was required using some 5 thou strip. 19 1
marvinneko Posted August 18 Posted August 18 James this feels so familiar to my tasman oxford building experience, but you are forging ahead without all the complaining I did. Great to see you wrangling this one into submission. 1 1
Planebuilder62 Posted August 18 Posted August 18 Great work James, lots of elbow grease and an eye for spotting trouble early. Maybe a few layers of plastic card to pack up the step around the front wheel well? Regards Toby 1
Mjwomack Posted August 18 Posted August 18 On 17/08/2025 at 11:14, JamesP said: I’m always prepared. Perhaps I'm some sort of kit sadist, but I was hoping for power tools 😁 3
2996 Victor Posted August 19 Posted August 19 Amazing progress on this kit, James - you're certainly showing it who's the boss! Cheers, Mark 2
JamesP Posted August 31 Author Posted August 31 After an intense week of work and a not-so-relaxing holiday (we got rear-ended while in Devon), I'm back on with the Scimitar. I fixed the disparity between the cockpit and central fuselage by cutting and wedging the cockpit sides. I can't change the height of the central fuselage as the intake lips/insert were already a perfect fit. The split was carefully located so as not to interfere with the cockpit tub/nose wheel geometry. A hole was drilled at the end of the split to stop it propagating. @Planebuilder62 kindly sent me Mike McEvoy's detailed review from an old SAM, which confirmed the issue with the nose, but also the same with the rear fuselage, so I went and double-checked... yep. Ignore the spine; the central fuselage is ~1.5mm deeper Talking to Colin at Frieghtdog, he told me the masters fit perfectly, but they had to be submastered to make the mould for the plastic. I also think the difference in vertical and horizontal splitting of the fuselage sections has meant that the plastic may have contracted differently while cooling. Fortunately, if I push the central fuselage lower extension up, it does eliminate most of the issue. I also removed a little extra plastic from the horizontal join at the rear, which will help when I glue up. With these issues in hand, I thought it best to get the tail sorted out. With some careful filing, I was able to achieve a really good fit of all three parts. I've gone and glued the tail in position first, so I can sort out the join before adding the tailplane. 19 1
UberDaveToo Posted August 31 Posted August 31 I have the CMK version of the Scimitar (too "new" for this GB) and just bought a new set of needle files, I haven't had a need for a big bastid yet, but I'll keep it in mind for future projects. The needle files have come in handy in cutting out camera ports for my Rareplanes AJ-2P Savage entry for this GB. Which reminds me I ought to get back to work on that... 3
JOCKNEY Posted September 1 Posted September 1 I hadn't realised these kits contained so much kit ! You are a man after my own heart with the metal files Cheers Pat 2 1
JamesP Posted September 3 Author Posted September 3 Heavy industry attempts to sort out the back end we'll turn our attention to the cockpit. A metal tub that doubles as nose well roof with PE IP. There are some nice touches here, such as the notch in the metal side console for the extra layer of PE from the throttles. The kit comes with acetate film instruments to add as backing to the IP. Folks this was 35 years ago! The result is very nice and might even be just visible though the very clear canopy. Painted up it looks even better. The instructions would have you slide the cockpit in on the rails moulded into the inside of the nose halves. Clever idea but I've no idea why, as you have the thin the insides to allow the IP to pass through. I just joined them halves together in the conventional manner. Others have noted that the metal nose (needs to be, to balance out all that lead in the backside) is too wide. Rather than trying to reduce it a 20thou shim in the top and 10 thou at the bottom. I checked that the canopy still fits. The coaming has yet to be added but I want to get the canopy cut first. 12
JamesP Posted September 4 Author Posted September 4 The rear fuselage was glued to the centre fuselage first just at the top. Once that was set I clamped the underside extension and used super glue, which was probably a mistake as the extension broke and CA went everywhere. Once that was resolved it I had a go at bending the PE airbrakes to shape. This is an engineering solution to adding the airbrake detail where it would not be possible to mould it, however it introduces its own issues. Though noted in the instructions to avoid creasing the PE along the engraved detail this is basically impossible, and you end up trying to match a faceted surfaces to curved ones. I used tape to hold them place and then wicked thin CA under them which of course wicked out the other side and under my fingers - thankfully I keep the de-bonder close to hand. Next the rather nice metal exhausts can be fitted, some fettling is required to try and get them to match the airbrake PE. Doesn't look too bad from the top and sides, but the underneath is a bit of a shocker. Not made any better as the parts of the rear fuselage were short shot. So out with the Milliput as we need to bond three different materials together as well as filling some deep holes. Here's what it looks like after a couple of rounds of filling and sanding. 13
JamesP Posted September 8 Author Posted September 8 My alterations the nose paid dividends with a lot less filling required than at the rear. The intake lips were a tad proud and needed filing back but we've got grill detail here that needs to be avoided, so the instructions suggest you favour the upper surfaces when lining things up. The underside of the nose is too curved which means a little more putty is required to blend things in. 15
Col. Posted September 8 Posted September 8 This is looking a lot better than the kit deserves to. Beautiful work James 1 1 1
stevej60 Posted September 9 Posted September 9 This is looking great James,I contacted the Vatican toda the Saithood's in the post! 1 1 2
Planebuilder62 Posted September 9 Posted September 9 Well done James, nothing like lots of old fashioned modelling skills to make something beautiful and unique out of a bunch of parts that kind of fit together. Don’t give up, it will be worth it when its finished, there are not many 1/72 Scimitar options out there. Regards Toby 1 1
stevehnz Posted September 10 Posted September 10 Impressive work here indeed. I am attempting to pay close attention to what is required for this kit having one in stock. Do we know which issue of SAM had the McEvoy article in it, I may have it among my SAM back issues? Steve. 1
JamesP Posted September 10 Author Posted September 10 21 minutes ago, stevehnz said: Impressive work here indeed. I am attempting to pay close attention to what is required for this kit having one in stock. Do we know which issue of SAM had the McEvoy article in it, I may have it among my SAM back issues? Steve. Thanks. SAM March 1991 1 1
stevehnz Posted September 10 Posted September 10 Thanks James, I think I likely have that one, off for a rummage. Steve.
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