tony007 Posted May 13 Posted May 13 Hi everybody, I need a bit of advice. I want to cut slots into plasticard, for making the frames/centerline on ships, and at the moment I am using a scalpel. However due to arthritis it is very hard work. Is there anybody who can give me some advice on different cutting methods? Thank you in advance Tony
Graham Boak Posted May 13 Posted May 13 Could you make the keel from a top strip and a bottom strip, with pieces glued in between with appropriate spaces for the slots? I can't think of an equivalent for the frames, I'm afraid.
tony007 Posted May 13 Author Posted May 13 Hi Graham Thanks for the reply. I want to try and keep the centerline intact if possible, with the frames slotting in. I have tried cutting the frames in half, then joining to the centerline, but I always go wrong with the measurements. The plans I use don't always have the details to do layering methods. Tony
ColonelKrypton Posted May 13 Posted May 13 (edited) 6 hours ago, tony007 said: due to arthritis it is very hard work. I sympathize as I suffer also. One thought is to use a Gundam / Gunpla panel engraver ( also referred to as scribers ) of suitable thickness. These engravers are available in various thicknesses (widths) from 0.1mm to 2 and 3 mm. When viewed from the side they look like a common wood chisel in profile. In use the pointy is down ( stating the obvious ) and the engraver is pulled backwards rather than being pushed. This action will scrape a slot (panel line) in the soft styrene the same thickness as the engraver. The use can make that panel line (slot) whatever length they wish. To keep the panel line (slot) straight and true you would use a scribing guide made of heavy tape or similar like Dymo label material. Don't try to "scribe" all the way through. Aim for just about and finish with a couple of strokes of the scalpel to finish and clean up. Here is a five minute introduction to these engravers / panel line scribers. These engravers ( scribers ) are available in a wide range of sizes and prices from inexpensive to quite expensive. The better ones are made of cemented carbide. Hobby stores catering to Gundam / Gunpla / Warhammer makers are good choice if you have one nearby. Otherwise Amazon or eBay. Search for Gundam scriber or Gundam engraver. Cheap ones may not work as well for your purpose as one of the mid or more expensive ones. I have several in various thicknesses from as small as 0.1mm for making panel lines and thicker ones for cleaning up 90 degree corners. A bit of an extravagance but irreplaceable once you get used to and finding uses for them. But then, I am a bit ( understatement ) of a tool nut I think I am going to have a go a making a nice clean slot using one of my larger sizes. Something I hadn't considered previously. Cheers, (another) Graham Edited May 13 by ColonelKrypton tinger frouble 3
tony007 Posted May 14 Author Posted May 14 17 hours ago, ColonelKrypton said: I sympathize as I suffer also. One thought is to use a Gundam / Gunpla panel engraver ( also referred to as scribers ) of suitable thickness. These engravers are available in various thicknesses (widths) from 0.1mm to 2 and 3 mm. When viewed from the side they look like a common wood chisel in profile. In use the pointy is down ( stating the obvious ) and the engraver is pulled backwards rather than being pushed. This action will scrape a slot (panel line) in the soft styrene the same thickness as the engraver. The use can make that panel line (slot) whatever length they wish. To keep the panel line (slot) straight and true you would use a scribing guide made of heavy tape or similar like Dymo label material. Don't try to "scribe" all the way through. Aim for just about and finish with a couple of strokes of the scalpel to finish and clean up. Here is a five minute introduction to these engravers / panel line scribers. These engravers ( scribers ) are available in a wide range of sizes and prices from inexpensive to quite expensive. The better ones are made of cemented carbide. Hobby stores catering to Gundam / Gunpla / Warhammer makers are good choice if you have one nearby. Otherwise Amazon or eBay. Search for Gundam scriber or Gundam engraver. Cheap ones may not work as well for your purpose as one of the mid or more expensive ones. I have several in various thicknesses from as small as 0.1mm for making panel lines and thicker ones for cleaning up 90 degree corners. A bit of an extravagance but irreplaceable once you get used to and finding uses for them. But then, I am a bit ( understatement ) of a tool nut I think I am going to have a go a making a nice clean slot using one of my larger sizes. Something I hadn't considered previously. Cheers, (another) Graham Another Graham Thank you for your suggestion. Honestly never thought of doing it that way, I was going to try a razor saw next. I think it may be a good thing to try. It looks like you can have more control. A plus is it looks like only a couple of passes is needed with the scriber, and then as you say finishing off with the knife. Got a set (with different sizes)coming off Amazon to try Cheers Tony 2
ArnoldAmbrose Posted May 15 Posted May 15 On 5/13/2025 at 9:44 PM, tony007 said: I want to cut slots into plasticard, for making the frames/centerline on ships, and at the moment I am using a scalpel. However due to arthritis it is very hard work. Is there anybody who can give me some advice on different cutting methods? G'day Tony, are these slots 'enclosed' or open at one end? And how big/long? And how thick the plasticard? If the latter, slots open at one end could you place a single-edge razor over the cut line and simply push down? I often cut styrene plasticard that way. If the slots are fully enclosed, but are longer than the razor then use the same method. If the slots are shorter than the razor length another possible idea is to drill a series of holes along the slot, and cut or file them into a slot. I don't know how easy or awkward that will be for you though, with arthritis. It sounds like you're doing a scratch-built ship's hull using the plank-on-bulkhead method. If so I'm very interested. I've done three to date, somewhat small (1/600 scale). I keep the centreline piece intact and solid, and make each frame/bulkhead in two matching halves, so no slots needed. Joins are re-inforced with short lengths of square-section styrene. HTH. Regards, Jeff. 2
tony007 Posted May 15 Author Posted May 15 Hi Jeff Thank you for your time to answer. I have seen some of your work which is very good, scale is a bit small for me now. It got me into scratchbuilding though, when I saw a article on HMS Invincible in Airfix mag years ago. You are correct about the method, using open ended slots in both the frame and centerline, then slotting together to form a more rigid structure than gluing the frames directly on the centerline. Thickness of plasticard depends on the scale. I am using 1mm for 1/350 and 2mm for 1/192, lengthwise anything from 300mm to 1mtr+ The way you describe(using a razor) is practically the same method as using a scalpel. And that's where my problem is, due to the pressure pressing down time after time. I have tried the way you describe and got away with it in a smaller scale, it's easier to do, but any wrong measurement is more noticeable in the larger scales. I have a set of chisels arriving today that Graham mentioned above. They are able(hopefully) to gouge out up to a 2mm groove and only leave a small thin piece of plastic, which can be easily scored out. If I have problems this way I'm going to try the way you mentioned ...drilling holes. I am not going to give in and I will find a way that I can manage. Crap getting old. BTW I used to live in Melbourne, lovely country ain't it sport👍 Regards Tony 2
ArnoldAmbrose Posted May 15 Posted May 15 42 minutes ago, tony007 said: Thank you for your time to answer. G'day Tony, Sorry it took so long to answer, I only saw your post this evening. I got back into modeling about 25+ years ago and restarted where I left off, with Airfix ships. I've stayed with Airfix because I like the 1/600 scale but I'm running out of available kits to modify, which is why I've tried scratch building. There is a modeler here in Perth who scratch builds ships in balsa. He works in the 1/192 scale, but that's too big for me. I've been working up in size with scratch-built ships and hence thicker styrene, the Flower class corvette in 0.4mm, USS Mullany in 0.5mm and DKM Karlsruhe in 0.75mm thick. I'll probably do the next in 1.0mm thick styrene. I'd like to see some of your work, apologies if you've posted some and I've missed it. 59 minutes ago, tony007 said: I am not going to give in and I will find a way that I can manage. 👍 Good man. 1 hour ago, tony007 said: Crap getting old. As one member here says, don't begrudge it. Not everyone gets the chance. I'm 68 (and 1/2) now, and yeah, not as agile and dexterous as I once was. Eyes aren't the best and hearing is abysmal but if I was any younger I'd still be working, not retired. And as we often say, "Work is the curse of the modeling man and woman". 🙂 Regards, Jeff. 1 1 1
tony007 Posted May 15 Author Posted May 15 40 minutes ago, ArnoldAmbrose said: As one member here says, don't begrudge it. Not everyone gets the chance. I'm 68 (and 1/2) now, and yeah, not as agile and dexterous as I once was. Eyes aren't the best and hearing is abysmal but if I was any younger I'd still be working, not retired. And as we often say, "Work is the curse of the modeling man and woman". 🙂 67 for me in a month or so Jeff, I don't begrudge getting old it's life. As you say not everybody has the chance to grow old. My wife passed last year and she was only 68. The bummer for me was my son a few years ago only 35!! I take each day as it comes (just a little slower) I haven't posted anything yet so you have not missed much. Regards Tony
ArnoldAmbrose Posted May 15 Posted May 15 45 minutes ago, tony007 said: My wife passed last year and she was only 68. The bummer for me was my son a few years ago only 35!! I take each day as it comes (just a little slower) I guess there's nothing I can say that doesn't sound trite, only that I apologize if my words hurt. Yeah, I guess each day as it comes. Regards, Jeff. 1
tony007 Posted May 15 Author Posted May 15 No need to apologize Jeff your words didn't hurt , just the way things work out in life. Regards Tony 1 1
tony007 Posted May 16 Author Posted May 16 On 5/13/2025 at 9:36 PM, ColonelKrypton said: I sympathize as I suffer also. One thought is to use a Gundam / Gunpla panel engraver ( also referred to as scribers ) of suitable thickness. These engravers are available in various thicknesses (widths) from 0.1mm to 2 and 3 mm. When viewed from the side they look like a common wood chisel in profile. In use the pointy is down ( stating the obvious ) and the engraver is pulled backwards rather than being pushed. This action will scrape a slot (panel line) in the soft styrene the same thickness as the engraver. The use can make that panel line (slot) whatever length they wish. To keep the panel line (slot) straight and true you would use a scribing guide made of heavy tape or similar like Dymo label material. Don't try to "scribe" all the way through. Aim for just about and finish with a couple of strokes of the scalpel to finish and clean up. Here is a five minute introduction to these engravers / panel line scribers. These engravers ( scribers ) are available in a wide range of sizes and prices from inexpensive to quite expensive. The better ones are made of cemented carbide. Hobby stores catering to Gundam / Gunpla / Warhammer makers are good choice if you have one nearby. Otherwise Amazon or eBay. Search for Gundam scriber or Gundam engraver. Cheap ones may not work as well for your purpose as one of the mid or more expensive ones. I have several in various thicknesses from as small as 0.1mm for making panel lines and thicker ones for cleaning up 90 degree corners. A bit of an extravagance but irreplaceable once you get used to and finding uses for them. But then, I am a bit ( understatement ) of a tool nut I think I am going to have a go a making a nice clean slot using one of my larger sizes. Something I hadn't considered previously. Cheers, (another) Graham Hi Graham This was a good idea, I got a set off Amazon with different sizes in and tried the 1mm scriber. It only took a couple of passes and I wasn't using a lot of pressure. A quick once over with the knife and it was done, nice and clean cutout. Going to be my way forward now.👍👍👍 Thank you to the members that took the time out to reply. Cheers Tony 5
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