2Step Posted March 20 Posted March 20 Full disclosure: this might take a looooong time to be done .... I finally found the b****s to start this project. I got the kit a couple of years ago at a Black Friday Sale. But it took me until now to get to it for various reasons, mostly chickening out. As I had very good experiences here with my WIP 1/35 Schnellboot with a lot of advice, solutions and support and figuring out that I will need that with this one too, I'll give you this WIP As any good modeller, I started on the last page of the instructions (for those who looked at my question in SciFi discussion here, you know instructions are not my forte). I had wondered for some time what kind of base would be appropriate for this kit. Then I had the genius idea (if I may say so myself) to make the - quite substantial - stand that comes with the kit into something spaceship/spaceport like, instead of actually rendering the space dock at Tatooine or something similar. So, this is my effort so far... First proof of concept: As that seemed to have the desired effect, I covered the stand complety: And painted with a few select decals: For size comparism with a Tie fighter and the two biggest pieces of the Falcon: All together I believe it's a good start. On a critical note: the details look a bit like they would be a better match for 1/144 scale or even bigger. But to my defense, I thought the same when looking at pictures from the original movie set. Also, I used Army Painter primer from a rattle can to paint everything. Strangely enough, on some surfaces of the original kit piece (molded in black), the paint cracked. I was able to minimize the effect somewhat by sanding and repainting, but not completely. Weird, but not a giant ptoblem, as the areas are hard to see and will just explain it as space wear & tear. Speaking of which. So far I did not weather the piece. I like the outcome and I am not sure if weathering wood improve it or wreck it. But that can be decided a t a later stage. To finish this first post, a question. I was thinking of putting a gun onto the set. Knowing that there is not really any spot that would make sense from a defensive point of view ... but you gotta have a gun, no? Two options from leftover pieces: a 1/48 "schräge Musik" gun ... ... or a "I don't remember the scale anymore" twin main gun turret from the "Potemkin" Both would be mounted on a 1/48 engine cover. What you guys think? A or B or forget it alltogether? Thanks for looking. Obviously all comments welcome (that's why I am doing this after all) and please don't give up when the updates are not coming quickly. Cheers Here are my other Star Wars kits: https://photos.app.goo.gl/75G5di2pDGK5bh1S9 10
psdavidson Posted March 20 Posted March 20 Since I 'encouraged' you to post this WIP, I'd better follow It would be rude not to That's a great looking base, and yes, it's gotta have guns 1
Mike Posted March 20 Posted March 20 I wonder if the primer crazed a little bit because you could have laid it down a bit thick? Just a guess really. I tend to lay mine down thinly, but then you run the risk of dust in the corners... can't win really, just minimise the effects The Mk.108s from your Schrage muzik looks more Star Wars to me than the Potemkin's long pea-shooters, so my suggestion would be them 1 2
2Step Posted March 20 Author Posted March 20 1 hour ago, psdavidson said: It would be rude not to You bet it would 1
2Step Posted March 20 Author Posted March 20 31 minutes ago, Mike said: laid it down a bit thick Actually, I don't think that's it. I normally try to do thin layers, but I wouldn't call it beyond me to have it too thick at some spots. But in this case it looked more like thinner areas???? I had the same effect before (with the same primer) when I oversprayed some earlier paint (acrylic on enamel) - but here it should not have happened. And I use that primer a lot and am happy with it... 1 hour ago, psdavidson said: yes, it's gotta have guns I like how you think 34 minutes ago, Mike said: Mk.108s Exellent spotting!! I had the same impression, my only worries that the Mks are in a fixed position and would be pointing down. Ah, so what, probably the hydraulics are acting up .... 2
2Step Posted March 21 Author Posted March 21 (edited) Oookaaay, gun turret. I agree that the twin Mk108 looks more "Starw Wars's like", so I chose it ... And tried on the location on the base (wether it makes sense or not). I have it not yet attached, but that's where it will end up ... Now, after the fun part putting it all together, comes the less fun part: putting all the pieces I didn't use back into the right containers for the next project. Cheers Edited March 21 by 2Step typo 10
2Step Posted March 21 Author Posted March 21 Mmmh, and I guess I overlooked a spot (blueish) that did not get covered by the spray paint ...
2Step Posted March 22 Author Posted March 22 Well, I am quite sure nobody remembers that a long time ago in a forum far far away, I posed the question wether the ramp of the Falcon can be build deployed/lowered, as I could not find the alternative in the instructions. Everyone who anwsered was polite enough not to formulate what they where thinking of my ignorance. Thank you for that. Now looking at said instructions starting from the front, guess what I found: Still haven't found the exact spot in the step-by-step instructions, but ... ... but, another instructions question (I am a bit afraid of another all too obvious answer, but I also want to make some progress here). Anywho - the kit comes with LEDs, to light up, amongst others, the cockpit. Now it seems that the lights go BEHIND the rear cockpit panel and there are no obvious holes for the light to shine through. Albeit, this rear panel is clear, but gets covered with decals. Does anyone have experiences if the light is supposed to shine through the clear plastic and decals, or how does this work? If that's the case, I would be at least tempted to poke little holes in the decals to give the appearance that the buttons are lit up. Again, please bear with an elderly modeller who is really trying here! Talking of elderly: it is about time to start this kit finally. Another couple of years and I would not be able to read the instruction booklet (YES! I know I have not exactly given the impression here that I can understand the instructions, but I literraly mean reading the small print! Look especially at the decalling instructions on the left 🔍). I think I will take pictures of some of the pages and look at it on the computer monitor - Also would keep the desk a bit less cluttered. Cheers 7
FG2Si Posted March 22 Posted March 22 (edited) Nice work on the stand. It looks much better than the bare plastic does on its own. As for the cockpit, I checked my build thread and the only pic I have of the rear bulkhead shows I left it clear under the decals expect for where the door goes. Carl Edited March 22 by FG2Si Fix typo 2 1
2Step Posted March 22 Author Posted March 22 2 hours ago, FG2Si said: clear under the decals Thanks for checking. I believe that's what the instructions want you to do.. Do you have a pic with the LED lights on behind that panel? I found a build video of that section on YouTube. But that modeller used a PE part to cover that clear plastic from behind (and painted the lower half black). The PE part had holes where the buttons are. So when lit up, it shines only through those holes and the overlaying decals. Looks good. I guess I could paint the whole clear part black and drill holes into it.
2Step Posted March 23 Author Posted March 23 While wondering what to do about the lights, I got the crew ready. The kit comes with six sitting figurines, all looking somewhat stiff (the only one where that fits is C3PO ). They can be placed in the cockpit (4 seats - as you all know) and the two gun positions. I decided to place Chewbacca and Han in the drivers seats and Leia and C3PO into the backseats. Luke will man the dorsal gun, the ventral gun will stay empty, as you woun't be able to see it anyhow. Leaves Obi, for whom I don't have a place, but IMHO the other characters are a bit more iconic (and I don't think Obi was ever behind one of the guns). To make them somewhat less stiff, I cut off some of the heads and attached them a bit angled instead of staring straight ahead. There is not much else you can do. I have seperated Chewbacca's left underarm into a raised positions. The other figures arms were too thin to do the same. In any case, I don't think you will be seeing much of them in the completed kit. I had also searched for 3D printable figures with a bit more action (for the ramp or the base,maybe a gun fight with storm troopers?). But in the end voted against it. And yes - I am not good with blond hair Cheers 8
2Step Posted March 24 Author Posted March 24 Allright, Step 2 of the instructions and I have already run into multiple problems (you probably now nodd your head knowingly, considering my earlier posts, NOT being surprised). Problem 1: the interior for the cockpit comes with a bunch of decals They look ok and are relatively detailed. However, I am not sure that the will adhere nicely to the very fine surface details of the plastic parts. Consequently, I tried first to drybrush: light gray overall and then details for the lights & switches in white, blue and red (randomly, not copying screenshots from Episode IV). That came out like this (again: proof of concept not final version) Kind of ok. I especially like the effect that the white parts look a bit like a lit light compared to the otherwise grey ones. But- and it is a big but(t) .... The paint is very subtle. Considering the lighting of the cockpit (see one of the other problems) and when all pieces are put together, you hardly notice the details (and this picture is with flash and without the crew or the cockpit framework/glas): I am now considering either to redo the dry brush with white (stands out more) or go back to the decal solution.... 6
2Step Posted March 24 Author Posted March 24 Problem 2: the lighting of the cockpit. The kit uses two LEDs for this purpose. It took me sometime to figure out what is intended. If you build it following the instructions, the only light you will see are two horizontal strips on the rear panel. Her is what I mean: The two LEDs are in that black holder, angled slightly upwards. The light will hit two extension (orange circles in the pic) from the clear plastic rear panel (not covered by decal). The yellow arrows arte supposed to show the path of the light. That way it will shine through two slots (guided by the clear plastic parts). The rest of the light is covered either by the plastic of the holder or the decal. So, as I said, the only light you will see is through these two horzontal bars (the light blue parts in the decal pic above). That is not even close to what the cockpit looks like in the movie. Maaaaaaybe it will light up some of the details on the two side panels. I have not tried that out yet. There is an alternative that I saw in a build video. The guy cut down the holder, so the light more or less hits the whole rear panel, ... ... sprayed the rear panel black, then scraped off individual switches or lights etc. with a scalpel and covered those "gaps" with clear red and blue paint. This way the light shines through all those spots. In that viedo, it looked quite good! I very much convinced to try the same. I have already widened the tiny whole in the LED holder, so the light is not only directed to those two clear bars (circled in th 1st pic) but can cover more of the panel.. When I have overcome my fear to screw up, it will happen (I am sure) ... 8
2Step Posted March 24 Author Posted March 24 Problem 3: the cockpit glas. the instructions offer you an alternative which parts to use (U11 or A4): Funny thing is: one of the parts is all clear, so you need to paint the non glass parts (inside and outside). By the way: for a "Perfect Grade" kit and the retail price asked for it, I would have expected a few masks to cover those windows!!! But the alternate part has me somewhat baffled. It consists of the framework without the glass. But I have found no instructions how to replicate the glass? There are no clear parts for it. I might be able to scratch something from clear acetate sheets. But, come on, nothing in the kit? Here is the only thing I did achieve so far: Having noticed in a movie clip that the rear seats swivel, I replicated that for my build: Well, as I had warned, this is rather a work in procrastination than one in progress. Thanks for looking anyhow (If there is still somebody ou there). Cheers 7
FG2Si Posted March 24 Posted March 24 (edited) Falcon 3D makes several sets of figures for the cockpit. They're in much more dynamic poses compared to the kit ones. If you ask, he'll even mix and match between the sets. I can check my Falcon to see how much light comes through the decals. I can't recall if I made any other changes. For the other cockpit panels, I used the kit decals over the kit pieces. I applied the decals using the usual decal solutions. Then when they were dry, I then applied a coat of Tamiya X20A thinner and used a towel dipped in hot water to press them into place after they were applied. The thinner will make them soft so you have to be very careful pressing down on them. The Bandai decals have some elasticity to them so will conform nicely to the details. If you're not sure of using the X20A thinner, you can also use Mr Mark Softer or Solvaset. It may just take a couple applications. On the canopy, the piece with just the framing is to replicate the filling miniature. It didn't have any glass in it to prevent reflections from the camera and blue screens. Green Strawberry does a masking set for the clear canopy and the gun turret windows. That's the one I used on mine. Edited March 24 by FG2Si Fix typo 5 1
internationalrescue Posted March 24 Posted March 24 (edited) Great build and love how you modified the characters. I agree with FG2Si the filming miniatures had no cockpit glass. Edited March 25 by internationalrescue 1 1
2Step Posted March 25 Author Posted March 25 11 hours ago, internationalrescue said: Great build and love how you modified the characters. I agree with FG2Si the filming miniatures had no cockpit glass. Thanks! After FG2Si mentioned it, I remember reading in one of my (or rather my kids') Star Wars books about the making of, that the cockpit had no glass. I didn't expect Bandai to replicate that ... 2
2Step Posted March 25 Author Posted March 25 Well, for better or worse, problem 1 & 2 have been handled. I "re-drybrushed" the interior and painted some details and did not use the decals (only for the two higher up white stripes which simulate the lighting bar): (front console is not complete yet) And as predicted (or feared?) in the end the details get lossed anyhow. Which is a shame as they are pretty good for a 1/72 scale. I wish that some of my 1/48 a/c kits would be as good. I made the changes to the LED holder as described above: The effect on the rear panel is more or less as expected. I used clear paint on the back for some buttons. The effect is pretty subtle and I probably give it another layer... Now is the time to decide on the paint method for the Falcon. I always had massive problems with airbrushes (Mostly just to keep it operating after a few uses). So I either brush or use rattle cans. I do have a relatively new airbrush sitting around but was afraid to fail again. Maybe it's time to try ... I anyhow have not yet found a good rattle can color which I think would match the exterior color of the Falcon. So, there will be a brake until I have made my mind up. Cheers 9
2Step Posted March 27 Author Posted March 27 Cockpit is completed and the whole cockpit section assembled. The detail on the kit is really great. As you can see I opted for my hand made masks. And primed: In the meantime, I tried out my airbrush. Besides the fact that I have not managed to find the right consistency of the paint, I do have a technical problem: When I switch the darn thing on, the pump runs for (I kidd you not) about one second and then shuts down. Well, if everything else fails, read the instructions... The instructions say that the machine will do this, if the pressure is too high. There is, however, no way I can do anything to influence the pressure. I finally figured out that, when I use the actual airbrush, as long as I press the lever for the paint, the pump keeps on working. As soon as I stop, it shuts down (violently shaking while doing so - according to the instructions, a feature???). So, I haven't made my mind up yet if I keep trying (the "right" solution"), find a rattle can with the matching paint (actually, Tamiya Racing White seems to be a close match to the decals for the cockpit frame work included in the ki. Although it a shiny paint, and again I have issues here: my clear flat spray paint from Army Painter does not come out too flat. Considering all this, the flat white of the primer is not too far off the decals color, with some later weathering it might just do? Oh boy, reading all this again, it is hard to believe that I have been hobbying for about 50 years, isn't it Well, the piece can stay primed for now until all pieces are ready to be assembled. Gives me a bit of time to make up my mind. Cheers 4
2Step Posted March 27 Author Posted March 27 And another problem - nay - challenge I found extensions for the LED cables (JST connectors 4 pin) on the internet. So, I am entertaining the idea (again) to extend the cables from the ship itsself (where the box with the batteries and on/off switch is supposed to be located in the stern) to the outside. That would allow me to put this box close to the stand (maybe put a little removable housing around it to hide it) thereby gining much easier access to switches and for battery changes. If build according to Bandai, you would have to remove a panel of the Falcon any time you want to put the lights on or change a battery. I think that would put a lot of wear and tear on the kit's details. Maybe one of guys, who have already build the kit, can help me with a question: What part of the Falcon exactly rests on the rear part of the stand. It seems to be around the part Q10. But I would like to see, maybe, a picture of the competed model. This is supposed to help me determine where to drill exactly a hole into the ship's body in order to run the cables from there through interior of the rear stand and to the box. Any help appreciated! Cheers 1
2Step Posted March 31 Author Posted March 31 Only small steps forward. On the question of painting: I decided to keep as the overall paint the white primer. Some panels will get a slightly greyed thin paint, nearly a wash, as my take from the studio model pictures is that even the light grey areas weren't uniform. The other panels (two greys, yellowish, dark red) will be painted and scratched by hand (I will use the decals as example but also exercise my artistic freedom). Everything will then get a very thin greyish brownish oil paint wash that should a) ease the pure white of the primed panels into something resembling the studio model and b) blend everything together. After that, weathering with pastels, Tamiya weathering sets and possibly paint. I tried the basics out and it was to (my) satisfaction. The oil wash was a bit too dark though and I had to restart (therefore no pictures yet). In parallel, I built the right "mandible". The detail is really incredible for this scale. To be honest, I think it's nearly too much, as it makes the whole thing look (without a figure or something for size comparism) as it would depict a much bigger spaceship in a smaller scale. But still, great detail And Bandai reproduced nicely the parts originally used, so you can tell where the ILM folks did their kit bashing. Her for examples some guns (top and bottom row) and engine parts (middle row): You can tell that they also made good use of the decals which came with the kits (or wherever they got their stash). Regular modern day aircraft stencils, advertising, even half a US license plate. Often the original decals have been cut in some haphazard way to make it look more "alien" (I suppose). Considering that in other kits Bandai used "real" alien writing, e.g. Snow Speeder, it's amazing that here plain old English and Arabian numerals are used: Sorry, some of these are hardly a couple of milimeters big, so the photo quality is not great. Ok, still begging for some help here with the LED cables. Principally, what I want to do is to extend the included cables with these (the picture is from Amazon, can I post this here without risk of an extended prison sentence?) To my uneducated eyes, these look like they should fit. Any opinions from someone with a bit more expertise than me, Also, some advice how easy it is to attach the loose plugs to the cable would be great! And the question from my last post .... Cheers 2
madtatt Posted March 31 Posted March 31 Nice idea with the stand. I like it. For such an expensive kit, it's really poor. I don't know if you've seen my Falcon build report, but I replaced it completely. I also went through the process of improving your stand in the Kitbashing. You can also check out my post about the painting. If you have any further questions, feel free to ask. 1
2Step Posted March 31 Author Posted March 31 (edited) 51 minutes ago, madtatt said: I don't know if you've seen my Falcon build report Actually, I hadn't yet. Just gave it a short glimpse now and definetly will read it in detail ... but I did see your stand before, which kind of triggered my simple efforts to achieve a similar effect (with of course much less effort). Your kit also just looks great. Ich hab' bestimmt noch die eine oder andere Frage und melde mich dann. Danke Edited March 31 by 2Step typo 1
silverfox63 Posted April 1 Posted April 1 On 3/21/2025 at 12:01 AM, 2Step said: probably the hydraulics are acting up ... Possibly just powered down, like the ED-209 in the original Robocop. Cheers, Chris. 1
2Step Posted April 2 Author Posted April 2 Due other, non hobby related obligations, not much progress was made. I have build Bandai kits before, but I am nevertheless quite impressed with the design of this onbe. Everything goes together without any hitch! I am especially pleased that I get to fit the small pipes without breaking any I tried out the oil wash (a very small amount of black and brown) and are pretty happy with it, considering that I have not done a whole washing with oils yet in my hobbying career. It is not very obvious in the pictures, but to the naked eye has a nice effect. It does the job of toning down the white primer to a color close to the Falcon's orginal hue. And, of course, emphasizes the many details. As said before, weathering will be done with Tamiya weathering kits, pastels and maybe the oil spots method (if that is a thing?). But I am going to do this at the end, so it will be more uniform than doing it piecemeal style ... And I will orient these efforts based on pictures of the original studio model (and a bit of the set up at Disney world) rather than film stills. Cockpit and mandible without a wash: .. and after ... So far so good Cheers 7
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