Question about super glue applicators

[szeregowy]

Not sure if this came up before (I couldn't find anything using search option), so please point me in the right direction if there is a thread about it.

 

I would like to ask what are you using to put a very small amounts, drop or two, of super glue when working with PE parts. So far I've been using wooden toothpicks, but it is very hard to judge the amount of glue on it and more often than not I end up with either too much or too little. I have seen some fancy tools, like this DSPIAE one https://www.hobbyworkshop.co.uk/dspiae-super-glue-application-stand-at-ga.html.

 

Has anyone had any experience with this or similar type of applicators?

[dogsbody]

I use a cut-down sewing needle, fitted into a pin-vise.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chris

[szeregowy]

This is a very clever solution. Thanks Chris.

[dogsbody]

9 hours ago, szeregowy said:

This is a very clever solution. Thanks Chris.

 

Not my idea. It's something I read about in an old model magazine, probably in the 90's.

 

 

 

Chris

[dromia]

Don't use the stuff very much, sooner use 6" nails and a 3lb hammer for small parts than wrestle with Cyanoacrylate.

 

However there is the odd occasion when out of 6" nails, time has passed and the memory of the horror of using the stuff has dimmed, happens quickly at my age, then my applicator of choice is an acupuncture needle.

[Mike]

If you're trying to get CA to run into a seam, an old #11 blade can be useful to run a line of glue down it, the tip of a blade can also be used for exact positioning.  I keep a few blades on a magnetic base for those purposes, and always decant the glue onto a Pringles lid (I don't eat them any more, so it's a limited resource), and use a cocktail stick for the most part when I'm not using a blade.  The broken needle is a well-used method, and Eduard made some PE glue applicators some years back.  You're supposed to burn off the CA when it gets gunged up, but don't breathe the fumes, and don't use too hot a heat, or you'll vaporise the delicate tips.  Go on, guess how I know!

 

As an aside, if you're putting non-structural PE on your models, consider using clear varnish or strong PVA glue for a more forgiving, re-positionable fixture  

[dnl42]

20 minutes ago, Mike said:

decant the glue onto a Pringles lid (I don't eat them any more, so it's a limited resource)

I use the caps from various bottles that we get. Milk, take-away food condiments, pill bottles, Sodastream CO2 caps, &etc. They're also just the thing for mixing acrylic paints with thinner/water/alcohol for brushing.

[Mike]

5 minutes ago, dnl42 said:

I use the caps from various bottles that we get. Milk, take-away food condiments, pill bottles, Sodastream CO2 caps, &etc. They're also just the thing for mixing acrylic paints with thinner/water/alcohol for brushing.

Sorry - forgot to add * other receptacles are available

[szeregowy]

Stupid question. How come CA glue won't dry out if poured on the cap/lid? The reason why I'm asking is that I have some kind of super glue that has very thin consistency and the last time I tried to pour it on the lid it fairly quickly dried out. Was it because of the glue quality?

[dnl42]

2 hours ago, szeregowy said:

Stupid question. How come CA glue won't dry out if poured on the cap/lid? The reason why I'm asking is that I have some kind of super glue that has very thin consistency and the last time I tried to pour it on the lid it fairly quickly dried out. Was it because of the glue quality?

I would guess you had a deeper puddle, which will take longer to dry...but dry it eventually will. 

[KingCobra]

I always thought CA-glue reacts to humidity and being put on metal reduces that contact. Plastic has the same effect, but it is easier to remove from metal.

Edited February 17 by KingCobra

[Elwick]

I use a thin copper wire with a loop that I’ve made fashioned in the end.  It can be burned off or thrown away once it gets all bunged up.