Series 1 Range Rover - Lift Kit & 32s

[SnøMotion]

This purchase started out as a way to use the spare tyres from my MX5 project and escalated into being part of a set (maybe a diorama... ) along with the Aoshima Brian James Trailers A4 Transporter and the mystery side project that won't be getting a WiP.

 

I've split this and the trailer into separate threads because, from conversations I've had on here and reading @Anteater's WiP, there are going to be some 'challenges'. The tyres I modelled for the MX5 are about 32" and so I'm going to need a 2" lift kit to get clearance on the Rangey. As the OOB chassis seems to be the cause of most of the problems, I'm going to model a new one that hopefully fixes the issues and has separate suspension components, so I can offer it as a 'fix kit' with standard or lifted ride height.

 

 

So I've started this kit by doing the absolutely most important thing... WHEELS!  The OOB ones are pretty rudimentary and probably 15in (might be 16in, I can't remember), which won't cut it as the MX5 tyres are for 17in wheels. I was thinking of what would be a sensible aftermarket wheel for an early 70s 4x4 and decided the only way to go is steel 8 spokes. So I knocked one up.

Because the original Rangey wheel has a very pronounced centre, I did a bit of research into series 1 hubs. From what I can see, they're the same as Land Rover ones, which makes sense. The 8 spokes are flat at the fastening point, so I modelled front and rear hub 'protrusions' that can be added as appropriate. I also did separate tyre valves, 'cos they're really hard to paint. I left the wheel nuts as part of the main wheel because it makes for a stronger component overall.

 

I had a bit of a revelation when I painted the wheels, because I used a black base instead of white, which is what I generally throw under silver to make it 'brighter'. This is ProScale Paints Z-Tune Silver (I think) and using the black really helps with definition in the finished wheel by making the shadows darker. Makes sense, really. Don't know why it hadn't occurred to me before. Here's a final photo of the new wheels and tyres against one of the OOB items.

 

I will paint the wheel nuts and there will hopefully be all kinds of weathering going on by the end of this build.

 

 

Thanks for looking! I'd probably give it a couple of months before coming back... although I might put the interior together... I need to do that so I can model the new chassis. It's not going to be a quick one, though.

 

Cheers!

 

Martin

[stevehnz]

I like the sound of what you're doing here. An aquaintance had a later RR with 245/75 R16s on it, about as big as you could go on a RR or Disco without lift kits  afaik. I suspect most wheels with standard Land Rover PCD would have had a larger hole in the wheel centre for fitting over front axle free wheel hubs, check these out.

Steve.

[SnøMotion]

Thanks, @stevehnz! I was pretty sure I’d actually used the correct PCD for a series 1, but I’ll double check.

 

The actual hole in my wheels is purely for locating the protruding hub on the outside, so the hub is a much larger diameter than the hole.

Edit:

Ah! I’ve just had a look and think I might have been deceived by AI! I think I’ve used the modern 5x120mm instead of 5x6.5”! I’d better get those re-modelled!

 

Martin

[stevehnz]

I think I'm right in saying that all LRs from S1 to Defender,  RR Classic & Disco Srs 1 had the same PCD. & as you have discovered it was 5 x6.5"

Steve.

[SnøMotion]

1 minute ago, stevehnz said:

I think I'm right in saying that all LRs from S1 to Defender,  RR Classic & Disco Srs 1 had the same PCD. & as you have discovered it was 5 x6.5"

Steve.

Indeed! So now I have a set of 17in 8 Spokes to fit a BMW 

[SnøMotion]

Okay, panic over! I've re-modelled the wheels to the correct PCD and increased the front and rear hub sizes accordingly. I'm actually much happier with the look of these against the previous version 

[JeroenS]

Sounds like a fun project. 

[PatW]

I could have done with a lift kit on the Italeri Police Rangey last month!

[SnøMotion]

1 hour ago, JeroenS said:

Sounds like a fun project. 

Hopefully! 🤞

 

1 hour ago, PatW said:

I could have done with a lift kit on the Italeri Police Rangey last month!

Yes, my timing is a bit off I’m afraid 

 

Martin

[SnøMotion]

Printed the new wheels overnight and I'm really happy with how they look. Here's a comparison of new, old and OOB. There's a little kerb rash on the new one, but I printed 6 so we're all good 👌

 

 

Off to paint, now!

 

Martin

[Potsie]

Amazing start to this project. I am strapped in for the ride!

[SnøMotion]

Thanks, @Potsie!

 

Martin

[Jbourne124]

The power of printing! Man that’s amazing what you can do with resin, great work @SnøMotion

[SnøMotion]

Thanks, @Jbourne124! Yes, it really is amazing what can be produced in relatively quick time.

 

Martin

[SnøMotion]

So here we are! It's almost a week later and I'm back at the same point! 

The correct PCD wheels are now painted and have the hubs, valves and tyres mounted. Now back to the trailer!

 

Martin

 

[Potsie]

The wheels were certainly worth the effort. They look amazing.

[SnøMotion]

Thanks, @Potsie! I’m much happier with them than the originals 

 

Martin

[keefr22]

Have to agree, they look superb!

 

Keith

[SnøMotion]

3 minutes ago, keefr22 said:

Have to agree, they look superb!

 

Keith

Thanks, Keith. Let’s hope I got the offset right! 
 

Martin

[keefr22]

Makes me wonder how many of the kit and aftermarket wheels I've used on my models have the correct PCD & offset? At a guess I'd say - none...!! 🤣

 

Keith

[SnøMotion]

3 minutes ago, keefr22 said:

Makes me wonder how many of the kit and aftermarket wheels I've used on my models have the correct PCD & offset? At a guess I'd say - none...!! 🤣

 

Keith

I’ve pretty much done everything at 4x100 or 5x114.3 until this. But as everything has been Japanese, I’m probably on the money 

 

Martin 

[SnøMotion]

Well, it's been a while since I looked at this, so I thought I'd make a start on some sticking. From reading @Anteater's WiP, I've decided to start on sections 2 and 3 of the 5 section instructions and get the interior built. There's no separate interior tub on this kit, so the door panels glue to the floor pan and it looks like the door panels and the chassis (which glues to the other side of the floor pan) want to bend the floor pan in different directions. Because I'm replacing the chassis anyway, I might as well get the floor pan set with the interior before I model the new chassis. I'll build up the original chassis and axles to use for measurements for the replacements.

 

 

The first step (in my mind at least) was to attach the backs to the seats and build up the dashboard for right hand drive before painting. The front seat head rests are hollow backed, so I knocked up some styrene blanking pieces that sit a little proud so I can rub them down and avoid so much putty, hopefully.

 

 

The back seat, like a lot of this kit, looks like it was moulded from Plasticine bucks! Look at the state of the front edge of the seat squab, it looks like I've already brush painted it with some Dulux gloss! (The seat is lying on its back, by the way) It also has a couple of fairly big sinkholes in the corners of the backrest that'll need filling.

 

 

I glued the three parts of the dash together, so I can hopefully smooth out the joins. This also has a couple of sinkholes in it, the worst of which is in the instrument binacle and the other on the glovebox lid.

 

 

With the exception of the Fujimi Lexus IS350 I built last year, I haven't built a non-Tamiya kit since the early 80s and I can't believe how poor the quality of this kit is. Especially as it was 50% more expensive than most of the Tamiya kits in my stash. The Fujimi kit was badly thought out, in terms of how you build it, but the parts were nice and crisp and accurate. This thing is just junk!

 

Anyway, I wanted a series 1 Range Rover so this is what I have. Hopefully I can make something half decent out of it. Lastly, I thought I'd mock the body up against the wheels and I think this might need to be at least a 3" lift not 2". Despite having a pivoted rack and ball jointed hubs, this kit doesn't have steering, so I might rectify that when I remodel the suspension and axles. If I do add steering, I'll need the extra lift to clear the front arches.

 

 

I definitely like the look of it at this height and I'm really happy with the wheel style, too. That gives me some inspiration to get building!

 

Thanks for looking

 

Martin

[Anteater]

Using my thread as build notes eh? No warranty implied or given!! 

 

I'm having flashbacks... 

[SnøMotion]

1 minute ago, Anteater said:

Using my thread as build notes eh? No warranty implied or given!! 

 

I'm having flashbacks... 

I’m mainly hoping it will prepare me for any potential pitfalls 

 

I'm a bit surprised that the instructions call for the underside of the floor pan to be painted gloss white. Mines experienced some restoration, it will be black.

[Technics]

Love the speed and accuracy of your work, my dream 3d skills right here ! 
Only see tasteful choices. Love this model of LR.