Brian James Trailers A4 Transporter

[SnøMotion]

Okay, onto another one! This is going to be part of a set (maybe a diorama... ) along with the Italeri series 1 Range Rover and the mystery side project that won't be getting a WiP. There seem to be a few little details on this box photo that aren't part of the kit. Mainly the winch line and 'hook' and the central winch line locator on the front edge of the trailer base. Looking at the Brian James website, this trailer doesn't come with the winch or the wheel rack thing at the front as standard, so I might just exclude them.

 

 

The first thing to note is that the box is quite empty (I've already cut some bits from the sprues, but they are all in the box).

 

 

The next thing to note is that I do not like those wheels! Especially as the spare doesn't match. Also, because this is being paired with a series 1 Range Rover that will be rolling on steel 8 spokes, I feel like steels on the trailer is more appropriate. So I knocked up a quick steel wheel (and forgot to do the tyre valve, but I don't think it will matter). I actually went with my JDM standard 5 x 114.3mm stud spacing and I think I should have gone 5 x 108mm. This would have given me a smaller mounting area and would have looked more like the OOB spare. I might re-do them, but I'm not sure... I'm also planning on using the OOB tyres at the moment.

 

The original wheel...

 

 

My steel wheel

 

Here are a couple of shots of the OOB spare for reference. As the back is what you'll really see, I don't think the differences with my wheel will matter.

 

 

And, finally, here's a comparison between OOB and my steelies.

 

 

The next step is fitting the main trailer frame together before painting and this is going to require some thinking. All the bits are separate, so it'll be really easy for it to get a wonk on. I think I need to make a jig.

 

Anyway, thanks for looking!

 

I'm hoping this will be a nice little 'over Christmas' project... let's find out!

 

Martin

 

[Anteater]

Interesting, I haven't seen one of these kits built before. Your steel wheel is far more prototypical than the strange Land Rover Defender-ish alloys. Keep the winch, trailers are far less useful without one. Most of all, if you're going to have a Range Rover towing it, make sure the hitch is mounted low enough on the tow car. A4 trailers have a low chassis and a big overhang and they ground out very easily when towed behind a tall 4x4 (here speaks the voice of experience!). 

[SnøMotion]

1 minute ago, Anteater said:

Interesting, I haven't seen one of these kits built before. Your steel wheel is far more prototypical than the strange Land Rover Defender-ish alloys. Keep the winch, trailers are far less useful without one. Most of all, if you're going to have a Range Rover towing it, make sure the hitch is mounted low enough on the tow car. A4 trailers have a big overhang and they ground out very easily when towed behind a tall 4x4 (here speaks the voice of experience!). 

Yes, those wheels are a bit Defender like, aren’t they!

 

I actually think the winch will be essential for the vehicle that will reside on there. I might leave the wheel rack off, though.

 

The great thing about this kit is that it comes with four different tow hitches for the tow vehicle and lets you know how high off the ground that hitch needs to be (11mm).

[Toftdale]

Often been tempted by this kit, so watching with interest - Andy 

[Potsie]

Very interested to see you progress. I have a couple of these in the stash, with one ear-marked for the MX-5 N787B I recently posted. Hopefully you can show us all the tricks for building this trailer.

 

Grant.

[JeroenS]

I've always found the trailer interesting as well, your wheels are a much better fit for such an item.

[SnøMotion]

I’ll try, @Potsie! At the very least I should be able to show you how not to do it 

 

Thanks, @JeroenS. I’m not really sure why they used these ‘alloy’ wheels in the kit at all. Most of the photos I could find had steel wheels and all but one of the trailers with alloys had an alloy spare. But mainly, can you imagine how heavy those alloys are? Probably heavier than steelies! 
 

Martin

[SnøMotion]

Well, I've been um-ing and ah-ing all week about how I'm going to make a jig for the frame that will be the exact dimensions and also perfectly square. And then I thought "why am I being an idiot?", so I modelled one and bashed it out on 'potato' setting. Perfect! 👌

 

I tried to be all fancy and make something super light that used less resin, but it just wasn't sturdy enough, so I beefed it up and it's just fine. Had I done that in the first place, this whole process from switching my Mac on to mounting the main trailer rails would have been less than 3 hours. For me, there just isn't a way I could have scratch built something this accurate in even twice that amount of time. I know some people don't like 3D printing but, for my skill set and available tools, there's nothing to come close. Now I think about it, it's 3D printing that has brought me back to this hobby.

 

Anyway, enough of that, here are some photos! I'll get it glued up this evening and hopefully on to paint tomorrow 

 

The jig (if I was a pro I'd have modelled the word 'Front' into it ).

 

 

The main frame rails located into the jig. The length of the jig fits exactly between a couple of lugs on the rails, the cutout locates another protrusion and the backs of the wheel arches sit flat on the sides. This holds it nice and square and steady.

 

 

Finally, I wrapped a couple of lengths of tape around it just to hold it on place.

 

 

Thanks for looking!

 

Martin

[SnøMotion]

Managed to get all the gluing done for the main frame as it'll all be painted the same colour. Seems to have turned out okay, but I think there are a couple of bits that might require some filler. Here it is still fastened to the jig.

 

Martin

 

[klubman01]

Ingenious solution!

Trevor

[Potsie]

Yes, this is a very smart solution. It is a pity it is needed though. I will keep this in mind when I make my version of this trailer. Watching your WIP with interest. Great progress so far.

[SnøMotion]

8 hours ago, klubman01 said:

Ingenious solution!

Trevor

Thanks, Trevor!

 

2 hours ago, Potsie said:

Yes, this is a very smart solution. It is a pity it is needed though. I will keep this in mind when I make my version of this trailer. Watching your WIP with interest. Great progress so far.

Thanks, Grant! Yes, it’s another case where a little more thought in the engineering of the original kit would have greatly improved the likelihood of getting a straight and square frame.

 

For example, the leading and trailing edges of the main rectangle mount to cylindrical pegs on the main side rails. If the pegs were square, that would have dealt with keeping the side rails vertical and then you’d just need to measure up to make sure it was square. Once that was cured, you could just drop the four cross braces in.

 

I suppose they do it this way so the onus is on the modeller, rather than their moulds, to get everything square.

 

I think there maybe an opportunity for a kit here, too. The jig, the wheels, a cable guide and hook for the winch (as pictured on the box) and both halves of the electrical hook up (as only a closed version of the vehicle side is supplied)

 

Martin

[Potsie]

Certainly agree there is potential for an upscale transkit based on your work so far.

[Toftdale]

Great work on the jig, very impressed with its form as well as its function - Andy 

[SnøMotion]

8 hours ago, Toftdale said:

Great work on the jig, very impressed with its form as well as its function - Andy 

Thanks, Andy! It certainly did the job 

 

Martin

[SnøMotion]

Okay, so I've got some paint on almost everything. With the main frame, metal bed and ramps I've tried to get a used, galvanised steel kind of look and I'm happy enough with it. There are a few bits that need painting semi-gloss black and red before clear and a couple of bits that I'll paint rubber black after the clear. And there's a whopping great join line down the hitch mount that I missed until it was too late. Might see if I can think of something to cover it with 🤔

 

I was really pleased with the colour on the bed centre. It called for Mahogany, so I mixed Tamiya Hull Red and Flat Black at about 55:45 and it's pretty close to photos I've found on eBay. It'll get some detail and weathering once I've given it a coat of matte 2K clear, which is about 70% matting agent and 30% clear. For the metal parts, I'll go 60% matting agent and 40% clear, so it has a little sheen.

 

But now, I have a confession! 

 

I have never clear coated over a decal and I have never applied any large decals to any model I've ever made!

 

This has a red stripe down each side of the frame (see box shot in original post) that is split into four sections. The surface is completely flat and the front section to the wheel arch is the longest, so it's not worrying me massively in terms of applying the decals...

 

BUT I HAVE A QUESTION

 

How should I be applying the decals?

 

I've got some Revell softener that I've used quite effectively in the past and I've just wet the decals and slide them onto the surface with some softener applied and then chucked a bit more over the top. I've always just assumed that I'd then hit it with some 2K clear and all would be well in the world but, now that time is approaching, I'm starting to worry.

 

I'd really appreciate any advice or experience that can be aimed in my direction  

Anyway, here are some photos of where I'm up to.

 

Thanks for looking!

 

Martin

 

 

[Toftdale]

The best thing to do is a trial piece (typically on the back of a plastic spoon) to ensure that all your elements are compatible.   So paint the spoon with the same paint on the trailer,  then hopefully there's a spare decal on the sheet, apply that using the decal solution you are going to use.  Let it thoroughly dry (at least 24 hours) and spray your clear.  Then wait a couple of days to make sure there hasn't been a reaction,  such a your decals cracking.  Hope this makes sense - Andy.   PS sorry I've never used the Revell decal solution,  so can't comment,  however I've always used micro set and micro sol and found they always do  exactly what it say on the tin.   I also know that @Neddy has had great success getting decals to adhere using a method he learnt from britmodeller,  but I can remember the details. 

[SnøMotion]

Thanks, @Toftdale, that’s really helpful 

 

Martin

[Neddy]

35 minutes ago, Toftdale said:

I also know that @Neddy has had great success getting decals to adhere using a method he learnt from britmodeller,  but I can remember the details. 

@Toftdale, here's the link detailing it - with thanks once again to @stevehnz.  The nearest available equivalent to Kleer is Lakeland Quickshine, available from Amazon if you don't have a Lakeland store near you.

[SnøMotion]

Thanks, @Neddy! Do you have the link? 

There seems to be 4 different colours of Quick Shine, is it the green one?

 

Martin

Edited December 20, 2024 by SnøMotion
Added question

[Neddy]

21 minutes ago, SnøMotion said:

Thanks, @Neddy! Do you have the link? 

There seems to be 4 different colours of Quick Shine, is it the green one?

 

Martin

Yup, the green one.  Quickshine multi surface floor finish.

[SnøMotion]

Thanks, @Neddy!

[Technics]

Great to see this kit being worked on. I’ve seen this box art about a million times! Looking great so far! 
 

I missed it in the text what was used for the metal colour? Very nice. I’m new to decals too and I absolutely love micro set, sol, and Tamiya decal glue if needed. 
Game changer for me all of them. For a flat surfaces, and being a brand new kit you I’d imagine you not need the help of any additional products as a fresh decal will have plenty adhesive.

Edited December 20, 2024 by Technics

[SnøMotion]

34 minutes ago, Technics said:

Great to see this kit being worked on. I’ve seen this box art about a million times! Looking great so far! 
 

I missed it in the text what was used for the metal colour? Very nice. I’m new to decals too and I absolutely love micro set, sol, and Tamiya decal glue if needed. 
Game changer for me all of them. For a flat surfaces, and being a brand new kit you I’d imagine you not need the help of any additional products as a fresh decal will have plenty adhesive.

Thanks, @Technics! For the metal colour, I first used ProScale Super Fine Silver over a black base. Then I stippled a wash of Tamiya Flat White and then a wash of Tamiya XF-56. It was all a bit much, so I started to remove it with Tamiya thinner and this was as much I could get off. Then I decided it actually looked quite good, so I replicated it on the frame.

 

I’ll do a spoon test with one of the license plates I’m not going to use and see how it goes.

 

Martin

[stevehnz]

6 hours ago, SnøMotion said:

Thanks, @Neddy! Do you have the link? 

Was this what you were looking for. ?

Steve.