Biggles87 Posted February 24 Posted February 24 That’s a lot of weathering, might I offer some constructive criticism. It’s very effective on the wing root but I’m not sure about the fuselage side, remember that the cockpit door when open hangs down over that side so would give it some protection. John Slava Ukraini. 🇺🇦 1
SecurityCodeRed Posted February 24 Author Posted February 24 11 hours ago, Biggles87 said: That’s a lot of weathering; might I offer some constructive criticism. Absolutely, constructive criticism welcomed. The door will be hanging down over that so might hide a bit. but I agree at the moment looks a bit battered, will be doing a little patch up job later. stay tuned. Meanwhile ... another day and some more masking Just placed the propeller. Looking used but still deadly... touched up that little of overkill wear, the paint being very slightly darker should work in my favour and will look like a shadow under the cockpit door. well, hoping. Thanks for comments etc.... till next time. Peter 10
Graham Boak Posted February 24 Posted February 24 Tip for later: the Aussie Spits tended to be flying longer range missions, with engines running a lean mixture, so the exhaust stains would be a lighter grey rather than black. 2 1
SecurityCodeRed Posted February 28 Author Posted February 28 A few days later... Gave the model a coat of X22 mixed 50/50 ish with Mr Color Levelling thinner to start applying the decals. I was going to paint the roundels and tail flash but ...then decided to give these Eduard decals a go, since they are the new type where .... apparently, you remove the carrier film after application. They are noticeably rougher with a more printed surface. After application you can notice the silver sheen After following some advice on the Eduard website on their new decals. I waited 24 hours ... they suggest 48 but hey. https://info.eduard.com/en/how-to-apply-eduard-decals Only decals manufactured after 2019 are the new type. so, I presume that the generic ones are standard Using some Tamiya-X20 and being very gentle removed the carrier layer I think, all in all that works pretty well. I'll carry on with rest now Till next time 14
giemme Posted March 7 Posted March 7 Looking good so far, I'll be shamelessly nicking ideas from this build Ciao
SecurityCodeRed Posted March 7 Author Posted March 7 10 minutes ago, giemme said: Looking good so far, I'll be shamelessly nicking ideas from this build Thank you, and you are very welcome. if something I've done helps or gives you some ideas then I'm flattered. Update on decal smashing... Do I wish I'd painted.... yes and no Zoomed in you can see the printed rosette. So not sure about that, however now my eyes aren't as good as they once were, I don't see it at a casual viewing distance. Very appealing... here you can see the difference in removing the carrier film I am zoomed in rather a lot here, the wrinkles and divots you can't really see with the naked eye. Before film removal and after ... It's pretty good but like I say, personally don't like to see the CMYK rosette, but only see it if looking ... VERY ... closely. What I'm really after me thinks is a masking cutting machine to paint 90% of the decals in the future, I have seen a few around. anyone have expertise or ideas? Regards Peter 9 1
giemme Posted March 7 Posted March 7 6 minutes ago, SecurityCodeRed said: What I'm really after me thinks is a masking cutting machine to paint 90% of the decals in the future, I have seen a few around. anyone have expertise or ideas? Definitely go for it! I own a Silhouette Curio, but there are others in their range suitable for the task. I try to avoid decals as much as I can; if you check any of my 1/48 builds in my signature, you'll see many examples of roundels and markings made with self-produced masks. The key point, to me, is to use Oramask 810 Vynil as masking material. HTH 1 1
Christer A Posted March 7 Posted March 7 I've seen just the same thing with Eduard decals. They always look like the protective sheet of paper have embossed itself om the decal, leaving a very rough looking result. I wonder if it's possible on decals that have been there for a few weeks? Just brush some X-20 on it end then start to peel? Your result look great in any case! 1
SecurityCodeRed Posted March 7 Author Posted March 7 (edited) 14 minutes ago, Christer A said: Just brush some X-20 on it end then start to peel? Yes, just X-20 on a cotton bud then gently rub ...it should start to come away. The Eduard website say leave the decals for at least 48 hours. I did a few of mine at 24hours. Think it should work on them anytime as long as you haven't sealed them with a varnish. Edited March 7 by SecurityCodeRed 1 1
SecurityCodeRed Posted March 14 Author Posted March 14 I just so happen to have an external fuel tank knocking about. so decided to install... 4
giemme Posted March 15 Posted March 15 15 hours ago, SecurityCodeRed said: I just so happen to have an external fuel tank knocking about Any chances you have one more? Ciao
Richard502 Posted March 15 Posted March 15 Hi Giorgio, I've got one. (Eduard 1/48). Postage from Austria will be negligible. Ciao, Richard 1
Scooby Posted March 15 Posted March 15 On 12/4/2024 at 4:18 AM, Christer A said: I agree, the difference is really minute! (and I can't see it either) But there are for sure Spitfire Boffins who will insist that the bulge is different, and Eduard being Eduard went that route. 😇 Still: you managed the hard part which is to eliminate that seam! I’m great at eliminating the seam too, I buy Barracuda or Ultracast. 🙃 2
giemme Posted March 15 Posted March 15 5 hours ago, Richard502 said: Hi Giorgio, I've got one. (Eduard 1/48). Postage from Austria will be negligible. Ciao, Richard Thank you Richard, PM sent Ciao
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