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looking for a decent glue for 3D printed kits


bootneck

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I normally assemble 3D printed parts with CA superglue but sometimes it is too runny and gets all over the model, or it just doesn't want to stick at all.  I changed to G-S Hypo Cement which is good but not as strong a bond as CA superglue.   Can anyone recommend, i.e. have actually used it with success, a glue that isn't too runny, allows for moving/aligning parts into place, and is a strong bond for 3D printed parts?

 

cheers,
Mike

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I guess it depends on your definition of 'runny' - I find Gorilla super glue (the standard one with the blue top) to be an ideal consistency - stays were you put it and gives a little working leeway. Another alternative is 2 part epoxy but I don't find this very suitable for tiny parts.

 

Cheers

 

Colin

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The parts can be very small indeed, so 2 part epoxy glue is no good for me. 

 

spacer.png

 

I seem to find lots of labels for Gorilla Glues, does anyone have an image of the recommended one?

 

cheers,

Mike

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Mike

 

I would recommend the following for you take your pick the debonder is great for cleaning up.

 

https://www.premiumhobbies.co.uk/adhesives/vms-flexy-5k-black-thin-ca-20g-cm11?rq=vms

 

https://www.premiumhobbies.co.uk/adhesives/vms-glue-remove-ca-debonder-30ml-ax12?rq=vms

 

https://www.premiumhobbies.co.uk/adhesives/vms-flexy-5k-black-ca-20g-cm10?rq=vms

 

https://www.premiumhobbies.co.uk/adhesives/vms-flexy-3d-ca-glue-20g-cm12?rq=vms

 

Also I put drops of CA in a plastic bag and then use a piece of wire to apply small amounts where it needs to go.

Edited by PeteH1969
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Mike - why wouldn't you use the same resin as the printed parts.

Apply it, plenty of time to position, wipe off any excess, then hit it with the UV's. Job done.

Or are you talking about bonding to a different material?

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Hi Alan,

as you can see from the image in my earlier post, some of the parts are less than 5mm long with the joining part only 1mm; so, I need something that can be spot-glued.

 

cheers,

Mike

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All superglues are not the same try a few and see what works. Same goes for resin, some takes a strong hold almost immediately and some just don't.

 

I usually just buy the cheap 2gram tubes of superglue gel, minimises the loss if you don't use it for a while and the nozzle goes brick hard.

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After borrowing some off a carpenter I started using Screwfix No Nonsense Mitre Adhesive. At £6.69 for 200mil, including activator. I apply it with the end of a paperclip and have had no problems yet and the bottle has not dried out

 

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For some very small parts, I have had success with PVA glue, even thinned a bit.   It will hold small parts; I don't use it for anything structural.

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  • 3 weeks later...

One helpful aspect of 3D printing is that small parts can be combined in CAD or even in slicers, avoiding the bagful of tiny parts. 

 

This is one of mine in 7mm:1ft scale (1:43.7):

 

spacer.png

 

Only the floor, buffer guides and couplings were printed separately. 

 

 

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While gel CA is good and not runny, sometimes won't stick at all which I can't explain. Sometime I use thicker PVA but still take some time to dry especially for heavy objects..

I think I will go with tacky glue a kind of more powerful PVA.

There are also silicone based glue suitable for every material but need to be handled with caution as its not easy to remove excess amount after applying

 

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Hallo

@PeteH1969, you use this CA glues you mentioned? Tell me, on clear parts, is there fuming a matter or not? I talk here about interior on my Do-17 in 1/48!

Max you be so kind anf let me know!

Happy modelling 

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1 minute ago, dov said:

Hallo

@PeteH1969, you use this CA glues you mentioned? Tell me, on clear parts, is there fuming a matter or not? I talk here about interior on my Do-17 in 1/48!

Max you be so kind anf let me know!

Happy modelling 

Hello Dov

 

I have used the CA adhesives on clear printed and clear IM produced parts I always (while wearing gloves) clean the clear parts with IPA and after applying the smallest amount of the CA adhesive I fix the parts together, the fogging is caused from a reaction with the CA due to the oils on the skin.

 

I generally use varnish to fix most clear parts to printed parts unless it's structural as they are usually the last parts to be fitted after paint. 

 

I hope this helps?

 

Pete

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Oh, @PeteH1969, today I use a CA which does not cause any fogging at all. It is the Gold series.

But the problem we have, glueing 3D printed parts is simple mission impossible.

For clear parts I will stay at my Gold CA.

So I need an alternate for 3D parts.

Your VMS Flexy series, what pro and cons does it have?

Is it suitable for etched parts, without any distortion?

Is it suitable for printed etched parts luke a dashboard without any harming?

Can I glue a wing or fuselage in 32 scale of 3D printed items?

Beside troubles on clear parts. I do not want using other chemicals to protect and cleaning. I prefer an easy way without a set of chemicals.

Pete,  does your CA work as I would like, as I said?

Happy modelling 

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49 minutes ago, dov said:

Oh, @PeteH1969, today I use a CA which does not cause any fogging at all. It is the Gold series.

But the problem we have, glueing 3D printed parts is simple mission impossible.

For clear parts I will stay at my Gold CA.

So I need an alternate for 3D parts.

Your VMS Flexy series, what pro and cons does it have?

Is it suitable for etched parts, without any distortion?

Is it suitable for printed etched parts luke a dashboard without any harming?

Can I glue a wing or fuselage in 32 scale of 3D printed items?

Beside troubles on clear parts. I do not want using other chemicals to protect and cleaning. I prefer an easy way without a set of chemicals.

Pete,  does your CA work as I would like, as I said?

Happy modelling 

Yes it works it fixes normal resin and printed resin it only has pro and con it is not quick setting a great pro is when it goes off and solid it grips and fixes very very well.

 

I have never seen 3d printed etched parts or used them so I have no idea if it will fix those parts it makes a great filler on plastic kits.

 

Pete

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Hallo @PeteH1969, thanks.

So what I can do is, to buy VMS CA, black and white for etched parts and 3D. Than to go on trial with left over parts. Than to decide, if it fits to me or not.

Anyway thanks for the hints, I will do it next month.

The trial I will document and post it. So we have a crowd profit!

Happy modelling 

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Hallo

 

Of course.

At the end of this months and the beginning of November.

Today I watched the tutorials of VMS.

 

The advantage are:

 

Much better starting sticking

Much stronger and not so brittle

Easier to remove, specially on AMV objects!!!!

So I look forward.

 

Happy modelling

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On 10/14/2024 at 7:33 PM, dov said:

Hallo

@PeteH1969, you use this CA glues you mentioned? Tell me, on clear parts, is there fuming a matter or not? I talk here about interior on my Do-17 in 1/48!

Max you be so kind anf let me know!

Happy modelling 

A note on my recent experience with clear UV activated glue on my 1/32 Mosquito. I was using this glue to 'cast in place' some fuselage windows and despite my best efforts had a lot of bubbles trapped in one of them, which I did not notice until the glue had set rock hard. I was surprised to find I could just pop out the offending window without any damage to the surrounding area, which was good for me.

So it seems that while this 'glue' will give a good mechanical lock, it does not really act as an adhesive on either polystyrene or acrylic paint or presumably, 3D printed plastics.

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