1976 Porsche 934 Vaillant Tamiya 1/12 using the ScaleLab 24 detail set

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello chaps,

Waiting my dental scanner to work again soon and help me so to get convincing wipers that will add the final touch to my Ford Mustang Indy 500 Convertible at 1/16 scale...

 

 

... I begin here a new thread dedicated to my next build, the Porsche 934 Vaillant Tamiya at 1/12, a big scale!

For this build, I decided to buy the expensive Scale Lab detail set, hoping this set will allow me to get a very nice result, even if I am sure you can get a fine one just with the Tamiya kit.

Will this set worth it? I will give you my opinion independently.

This set was bought on Spotmodel, it is about 300€, much more expensive than the Tamiya kit itself so (about 140€).

Below are some pics of both boxes and their contents:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The first impression with the Tamiya kit is very good despite its quite old age, 1976, it has been reissued more recently with a PE detail set and a Cartograf decal sheet (both very nice!).

The Scale Lab detail set is impressive with 9 PE plates, resin parts and a sheet of masks for the windows frame painting job. It will require a careful study before use because the instructions sheet above seems to me somewhat succinct...

Well, I hope I'm wrong on that point, we shall see.

 

A word about the choice of the Porsche 934 Vaillant: as usual, the choice for a model is for me first aesthetic. From this point of view, I could have chosen the Jägermeister version, orange (I love this color) but I ever have the huge 1/8 Pocher Lamborghini Aventador in nearly the same color. This Light Cobalt Green (lighter than what the Tamiya box-art suggests imho) is though also quite to my taste, in addition to be more original.

It is also very possible that the name "Vaillant", even if it is here just a sponsor (Vaillant was and is still today a heating systems manufacturer), resonated in me and more or less consciously recalled the adventures of Michel Vaillant, famous racing driver in the comic books albums of Jean Graton (the French and Belgian members of this forum will understand me very well).

 

Looking in the Net, I found a pic of this Vaillant version showed at Autoworld Brussels. 

Pity, when visiting this nice car museum last year, the car was missing...

 

 

 

The documentation will be consequently quite poor, a priori...

For the paint, I decided to use mainly Gravity products, but most likely Tamiya and Vallejo ones too.

 

Well, let's go to the bench now, hoping this build will arouse interest from the Brit community.

 

Cheers, O

 

[keefr22]

Wow, looks like a lot of work ahead of you with this build Olivier, really looking forward to watching it come together!

 

I wouldn't go by the colour of the London car, that looks to me to be Porsche Mint Green - i've a stalled 964 RS build that will be that colour.

 

Keith

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Thanks for the interest you show for my new project, Keith.

If you compare the latter with my previous ones, we may say indeed that there is a lot of work but probably less though.

About the color, I will use the Gravity color dedicated to this Vaillant GC-118 Vaillant Green (ever at hand) sure that it is faithful to the original. 
Cheers, O

[othertales]

This looks like a really exciting build! Loving the kit, extra detail set and reference images already—shall follow with interest and thank you for sharing.

Edited September 9, 2024 by othertales

[Hamden]

 

I'll take a seat and watch the magic happen!

 

        Roger

[Stick]

Vroom... best wishes 👍
Stick

[Jouko]

This must be followed closely. 👍

I also intend to build a similar car at some point. Both versions are purchased, Jägermeister and Vaillant. I have also other decals for both.

The purpose is to make a white Vaillant 934 with Studio 27 decals and a white 934 RSR Vasek Polak Team version with Decalcas decals.

The Scale Lab detail set for both has yet to be purchased. I haven't been able to decide whether to buy the one with the resin parts or the one with the aluminum rims etc. 🤔

[Vesa Jussila]

I am also in. Definitely classic car and I think this is quite good basic kit to make more detailing.

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello chaps,

 

A first step with the body preparation before painting (I decided to begin with the body in order to take advantage of the setting times to focus on others aspects).

Classically, the first job to do is to remove the sprues and to track the casting lines and remove them as completely as possible:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next step: all these parts will get a coat of Gravity Dark Surface Primer (Gravity recommends the Dark primer for the Vaillant Green).

 

Cheers, Olivier

 

 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello chaps,

 

I will begin this new post with a little rant regarding ScaleLab 24.

I may agree to pay 300€ to get a great detail set, but for such a price, I don't accept such a poor instruction sheet. 

I don't understand that the manufacturer takes so much care for the parts and so few to provide clear instructions, while Tamiya's ones are on the other hand so clear.

I would like to contact ScaleLab 24 but they are only on Facebook, while I am not on any social media (except Britmodeller if you consider it to be one).

If someone of you has Facebook and may contact them for me, I would appreciate.

I suppose I am not the first modeler faced to the problem, and maybe they made updates or can explain me some points (many in fact).

I have a little experience in details sets, I used among many others the very complex Top Studio Super Detail Up set MD29016 for my Honda Repsol, and I have never seen so poor and unclear instructions.

Except that, everything is fine for now, I used the SL 24 insign to take place instead of the Tamiya relief:

 

 

 

I also applied the Primer on the main parts of the body:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers, Olivier

 

P.S: I recommend to place the SL 24 PE sprues in individual little bags, as well to protect them than to identify much more easily the sprue, each bag getting a big label with the letter on. If it won't fix the problem mentioned above, it will at least help to avoid accidents and earn time in finding the right sprue...

 

 

[othertales]

Really great process, helpful thinking and building tips. Kit is progressing nicely!

Might get myself a similar anti-static brush…

[keefr22]

Some really good tips there Olivier, good start on the build too.

 

Keith

[Jouko]

Hello Totally Mad Olivier

I found the ScaleLab 24 email address on Facebook. Maybe you can use it to ask for better instructions.

[email protected]

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Thanks a lot Jouko, contribution much appreciated!

In fact, I had asked my son to contact ScaleLab 24 on facebook and they confirmed that indeed, I probably have an old version of the instructions.

They should send me the update by post (they prefer this option than a simple mail, why not...)

They also learned me that there is also an upgrade "from resin to CNC". But this upgrade is again very expensive, 110€ + shipping.

If you intend to purchase the ScaleLab detail set on Spotmodel, I recommend you to order the set with this CNC optional parts, since it is only 52,80€ more than the "normal" set (the one I had ordered a few months ago):

 

 

On my side, I will try to negociate a discount, using the mail you kindly mentioned above, that will allow me to contact them without going through my son. 110€ + shipping fees is really too expensive for a few parts, even if they look great.

 

2nd subject of this post: the compressor.

I have problems with mine, an Harder &Steenbeck Aero-Pro 20A (135W, 17l suction capacity, 6 bars pressure, 1,5 l tank capacity) bought 390€ on Fire Scale Modeler less than 2 years ago (that seems to be stopped like the rest of the range).

This compressor regularly interrupts my electrical installation (partially).

I changed the 30mA for a more resistant and at first, it was perfect but I have the same problem again.

The problem may happen even when I don't use the compressor and I must not forget to turn it off before leaving home.

What silent compressor do you use? Do you sometimes have this kind of problem?

Thanks to share here.

 

3rd subject, to come-back to my build:

the Gravity primer allowed to enhance casting lines to remove that I had forgotten, such here fe:

 

 

 

 

First reason: this coat will reveal subtle defects that even the great Gravity Primer didn't show:

 

 

 

 

But there is another reason for this Alclad Alu coat: I hope this bare metal primer will allow to give a more "metallic" look to the body.

I had applied such a metal coat on the Fiat 806 and honestly, compared with the OOB just painted Red, there is a neat difference, with a nice metal look on my partially scratchbuilt version. OK, the body was Red, a color that does'nt cover a lot, allowing such effects, not sure that the Cobalt Green will produce the same one, but why not try?

 

 

 

OK, that's all for tonight chaps.

 

Cheers, thanks for watching, encouraging and sharing,

 

Olivier

 

 

[nick]

This is looking extremely interesting. I have this kit and have been pondering what to do with, so keen to see how you get on. Great start anyway!

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello chaps, 

 

As I said above, this time of preparation is very important and requires a lot of rigor, probably because of the old age of this kit.

The next step was to apply the Gravity Vaillant Green GC-118.

A first coat was sprayed, that was gently sanded after setting with a wet 3000 grit pad (AA).

A second coat followed, gently sanded with a wet 6000 grit pad:

 

 

Despite that the water I use is softened, it is important to wipe gently all surfaces with a clean microfiber cloth (the Gravity ones are fine) to avoid traces of dried water before the 3rd coat, that will be bring the final touch to this painting step:

 

 

The 3rd coat (not applied everywhere but only where necessary) once set, was very gently sanded with a wet 12000 grit pad.

This painting job is now over:

 

 

Next step: decals placement before the Clear coat…

 

Cheers, O

 

Last minute: I got today by post the updated instructions from Scale Lab 24. They seem to be indeed a bit more clear than the ones I had posted above. On request, I may scan and add them in my next post.

 

Edited September 20, 2024 by Totally Mad Olivier
New instructions from Scale Lab 24

[keefr22]

Really good looking paint! Always liked the Vaillant colour!

 

Keith

[Stick]

This is going to look great... more, more. 👍
Stick

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello chaps,

 

As I said above, I decided to go on with the decals, a choice that may be debated, since I could have fe chosen to first apply Satin Black on windows and windshield joints.

The Cartograf decal sheet is, not surprinsingly, excellent quality, but I deeply regret that there are no cuts where there should be, as well for inscriptions as for decorations. The manufacturer leaves us to make our own cuts, which is delicate to say the least, as you will see below:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers, Olivier

 

[nick]

I just love your surgical approach to model building, you’re setting a very high bar for the rest of us here!

 

Nick

[Hamden]

 

Very nice start Olivier, even at this early stage your attention to the smallest details takes this to the next level!

Looking forward to the next update now

 

           Roger

[ceeb555]

Great start to the decalling. We have exactly the same thermometer, ‘Er indoors might find it missing on my next decalling stint!!!!
Is 35.5 the optimum temperature for placing decals??
Great idea to make your own user manual

Looking forward to further progress

 

Chris

[Totally Mad Olivier]

On 24/09/2024 at 09:36, ceeb555 said:

Is 35.5 the optimum temperature for placing decals?

First of all thanks to all of you for your kind likes and comments!

About the optimum temperature, I don’t claim to hold the absolute truth and more, it may depend a bit on the kind of decals used, but personally, I usually prefer a temperature between 30° and 40°C, 36°C being a very good compromise indeed.

The problem is that the temperature decreases quite fast.

I fix that using either a kettle, or a microwave oven.

It would be great to have a stuff looking like the box lid I use that keeps the temperature unchanged during a decal session…

 

Cheers, O

[Noel Smith]

Lovely model taking shape here. The Vaillant Green is a really nice colour shade.

 

I think that a model of the Vaillant Porsche with extra after market goodies on it won Best Civilian Vehicle at Telford last year.

Edited September 25, 2024 by Noel Smith

[Totally Mad Olivier]

8 hours ago, Noel Smith said:

I think that a model of the Vaillant Porsche with extra after market goodies on it won Best Civilian Vehicle at Telford last ye

II would love to see that winner of a model contest…