Potsie Posted October 31 Posted October 31 17 hours ago, SnøMotion said: As I'm working through it, I've realised the seats, steering wheel, rollcage and road wheels that ended up happening would also make a great 'track package' if I knock out some lowering components, too. Yes, yes it would. And that is at least two orders from me! A very common 'track' modification for NA / Mk I MX-5s - at least here is Aus - are the so-called big brakes from the NB / Mk II and a set of 15" Rotagrids, Konigs or Buddy Club P1 style mag wheels. 1
SnøMotion Posted October 31 Author Posted October 31 42 minutes ago, Potsie said: A very common 'track' modification for NA / Mk I MX-5s - at least here is Aus - are the so-called big brakes from the NB / Mk II and a set of 15" Rotagrids, Konigs or Buddy Club P1 style mag wheels. Yeah, I think I might need to model some different wheels. The ones I've already done are based off the dune buggy centres that are supposed to be machined down for split rims. I've done 15in and 16in, but because they're the original centre style, I'm not sure bigger brakes would fit. They are fitted with Yokohama AO52s, so ideal for track use. Below is a not so great photo, but you get the idea. I like the idea of P1s but, I must admit, I've got a bit of a thing for Work Equip 40s and I think they really suit the MK 1. 2
Potsie Posted October 31 Posted October 31 The split-rim version of the daisy wheels certainly look great and the Yokohamas a nice too. Many people run Yokohama Advan Neova AD07, which are more orientated toward track usage and do not break the bank to buy. I agree the Work Equip 40s would be an ideal wheel. The Mazdaspeed three-spoke wheel that comes in some of the Aoshima NB / Mk II kits will fit under the Tamiya NA and look nicely period correct. 1
SnøMotion Posted October 31 Author Posted October 31 39 minutes ago, Potsie said: The split-rim version of the daisy wheels certainly look great and the Yokohamas a nice too. Many people run Yokohama Advan Neova AD07, which are more orientated toward track usage and do not break the bank to buy. I agree the Work Equip 40s would be an ideal wheel. The Mazdaspeed three-spoke wheel that comes in some of the Aoshima NB / Mk II kits will fit under the Tamiya NA and look nicely period correct. Yeah, they'd work well. Although I have mixed feelings about 3 spokes 1
SnøMotion Posted November 1 Author Posted November 1 Another little update. I've modelled a seat! Really happy with this, I'm going to print some out and see how they look. I also test printed some steering wheels and I think I might have to beef up the spokes a bit. But, believe it or not, the Sparco logo has actually held up on the right hand spoke! The problem is, it's so small I can see it enough to attempt to paint it! Here's one of the printed ones with a bit of Tamiya TS-29 SGB. And I also think that I'll have to airbrush the next one so there isn't so much texture. 5
Potsie Posted November 2 Posted November 2 The seat will look epic. As with the 1:1 MX-5s, finding a race seat that actually fits is very difficult for the models. There will be a market for these seat for sure; me! 1 1
SnøMotion Posted November 2 Author Posted November 2 Thanks, @Potsie! Yeah, this seat is based on a Sparco Sprint and, scaling it down from the dimensions on Sparco's website, it's pretty much exactly the same size as the kit seat but with a taller back. I've upped the steering wheel spoke thickness from 0.2mm to 0.35 mm and it's really made a difference in strength, but it still looks okay. I've made the harness hole inserts separate, so I don't have to mask them, too. Here's another poor photo to not really illustrate Martin 4 1
Toftdale Posted November 2 Posted November 2 Great work on the seats and very smart thinking with regards to the inserts - Andy 1
SnøMotion Posted November 2 Author Posted November 2 19 minutes ago, Toftdale said: Great work on the seats and very smart thinking with regards to the inserts - Andy Thanks, Andy! I always try to break things down into as many components as possible because I hate masking!
SnøMotion Posted November 7 Author Posted November 7 I think I’ve modelled the last thing! I need to print this roll cage to make sure it fits, so fingers crossed 🤞 Oh no! I just remembered I want to create a light bar to sit on top of the cage! Well, shouldn’t take me long Martin 4
Potsie Posted November 8 Posted November 8 The roll cage looks great. Hope the print works out okay. 1
SnøMotion Posted November 8 Author Posted November 8 Thanks, @Potsie! Yeah, it’s a 23 hour print, so it’d be somewhat annoying if it failed I’ve been having trouble with my “release liner” (clear film on the bottom of the resin tank that the layer image shines through) recently. When I first got the machine I upgraded to the “2.0” FEP and it was great. But, last time I ran out, the 2.0 FEP was “no longer available” and could only find newer PFA ones. I don’t really know what the difference is between them, suffice to say that the PFA has failed 50% of almost every print. I checked the Amazon again the other day and the old FEPs are now back! A pack arrived yesterday and so I’ll change that before risking a print 🤞 Martin 1
SnøMotion Posted November 8 Author Posted November 8 👆 Well, that was all nonsense! I opened the package and the FEPs I just bought are identical to the last ones! I guess it was just operator error with the failures, then. The only thing I would say is that the new liner I’ve just installed has a satin finish instead of the super clear gloss of all the others I’ve used. With this in mind, I’m going to run a quick test print of some smaller components to see what happens…
Potsie Posted November 8 Posted November 8 @SnøMotion All the best for the print. A super gloss vs satin finish release liner will certainly make a difference. In my (limited) experience with 3-D printing the adhesion of the first layer to the substrate is critical. Needs to be strong enough to support the build without warping, but not too strong to make post-print release an issue.
SnøMotion Posted November 9 Author Posted November 9 Thanks, @Potsie! I was going to knock out the light bar to run as a quick test, but life got in the way and I didn’t manage to finish it. Rather than lose the down time until I got it finished, I set the roll cage to print anyway, so we’ll see in about 6 hours! Martin
Potsie Posted November 9 Posted November 9 16 hours ago, SnøMotion said: Thanks, @Potsie! I was going to knock out the light bar to run as a quick test, but life got in the way and I didn’t manage to finish it. Rather than lose the down time until I got it finished, I set the roll cage to print anyway, so we’ll see in about 6 hours! Martin I always find the apparent contradiction of 3-D prinitng being great for rapid prototyping and taking so long to print an interesting conundrum. Mind you, I was at a work conference during the week and saw lots on wire-arc additive manufacturing (WAAM) which is able to create amazingly detailed and large scale metal structures. Apparently there is a bridge of a canal in Amsterdam made from this method. So with the correct tools you could turn all your designs into 1:1 creations! I would love to see a Mk 1 MX-5 chasing a 911 Dakar or Huracan Sterrato along a Baja 1000 style stage....
SnøMotion Posted November 10 Author Posted November 10 9 hours ago, Potsie said: I always find the apparent contradiction of 3-D prinitng being great for rapid prototyping and taking so long to print an interesting conundrum. Mind you, I was at a work conference during the week and saw lots on wire-arc additive manufacturing (WAAM) which is able to create amazingly detailed and large scale metal structures. Apparently there is a bridge of a canal in Amsterdam made from this method. So with the correct tools you could turn all your designs into 1:1 creations! I would love to see a Mk 1 MX-5 chasing a 911 Dakar or Huracan Sterrato along a Baja 1000 style stage.... Yeah, but against the time involved in tooling, I guess a day is still pretty rapid 😄 I think the longest print I could fit on my machine would be about 70 hours at maximum resolution. That would be a stressful three days I’ve just had a look at that bridge in Amsterdam, that’s spectacular!
flyboy2610 Posted November 10 Posted November 10 That is going to look sooooooooooo cool when it's done! 😎 1
SnøMotion Posted November 10 Author Posted November 10 Thanks, @flyboy2610! My roll cage was enough of a success for me to see that it fits, so I just need to print it again, and the aforementioned light bar, and then it should just be paint and assembly! The final build will be the off roader, but I’m going to get some dune buggy shots first
SnøMotion Posted November 14 Author Posted November 14 A quick update with a couple of shots of the roll cage and light bar test fitted. Next stop: getting the interior painted🤞 5
keefr22 Posted November 14 Posted November 14 I have no idea how I missed this thread Martin, but have just had an enjoyable read through it all - what a cool, if a bit bonkers - machine you are creating! I think the 'track package' with the addition of that very nice sumpguard you've modelled, and some suitable tyres, would make for a great clubman tarmac rally car model! On 02/11/2024 at 11:36, Potsie said: The seat will look epic. As with the 1:1 MX-5s, finding a race seat that actually fits is very difficult for the models. There will be a market for these seat for sure; me! Same with 1:1 Minis! I would think a pair of those seats might be the very things I will need for my planned replica of our 1:1 stage prepared 1275GT - the OMP seats currently in the real car are a snug fit to put it mildly, and most of the 1/24 resin aftermarket seats I have are very reluctant to go in a model when trial fitted...!! 🤣 Agree that the separate inserts for the harness holes is a brilliant idea! Looking forward to seeing the final creation! Keith 1
SnøMotion Posted November 14 Author Posted November 14 @keefr22 Thanks, Keith, glad I could provide a little entertainment I think these seats should probably fit in a mini, actually. In fact, I should probably stick a set in the Trabby when I get around to building it. That’s an interesting thought on a clubman tarmac rally ‘trans kit’ for the MX5. Would Yokohama A052 tyres work for that? Martin 1
keefr22 Posted November 14 Posted November 14 28 minutes ago, SnøMotion said: Would Yokohama A052 tyres work for that? For a clubman's car i'd certainly think so. We'd happily run them on the MIni if they were available in 13 inch! On the last hillclimb we did (my son & I) we used Yokohama A539's as they looked to be the most affordable 13inch ones we could find. They worked quite well on the tarmac of Epynt, but we certainly didn't have the fastest car there!! Keith 2
Potsie Posted November 15 Posted November 15 The roll cage looks great. A transkit for tarmac rally or circuit racing would be very well received. 1 1
SnøMotion Posted November 15 Author Posted November 15 Cheers, @Potsie! I better start thinking about what other bits I’d need for a trans kit, then I’ve just put the white on the roll cage, matte black on the seats and semi gloss black on the steering wheel, harness inserts and light bar. Later I should be able to clear coat the roll cage, (a little addition as yet unmentioned) and the light bar reflectors (which I’m aiming to chrome). The seats need masking and dark grey adding to the shoulders and seat pad (I might attempt to paint the Sparco logo white, too). The light bar is going to end up being a seven stage process and the steering wheel is five (including the Sparco logo that I have successfully achieved on a test wheel). So, I’d better go and spend some time masking the interior tub Martin 2
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