Iwata neo problem

[tezzer66]

I've recently come back to modeling and started using an airbrush but I'm having a problem with it. It's an Iwata neo and the problem is this, air is not getting through with the nose cap on but without it, it's fine, this however is far from ideal and is getting me somewhat frustrated, does anyone know how to resolve my problem?

Edited September 4 by tezzer66

[flyboy2610]

When you say nose cap, do you mean the needle cap, which is at the very front of the airbrush, or the nozzle cap, which is right behind the needle cap and covers the nozzle? I'm going to assume you mean the nozzle cap, which covers and protects the nozzle. Do you get bubbles in the paint cup when you try to spray paint? If so this is usually caused by the nozzle cap not being tight enough, or a bad O ring between the nozzle cap and the body of the airbrush. Make sure the cap is tight and sealing properly.

 

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

It all depends on paint, thinner and PSI. I do have a Neo and I will actually loosen the nose about 1/8 of a turn otherwise i get bubbles sometimes. Mine has a tendency to be overtightened as the O-ring is gone. I use bee’s wax sometimes if its overtightened the air doesn't seem to flow for me. Though it could be your pressure is too low. Or your paint isn't thinned enough ? 

Edited September 5 by Corsairfoxfouruncle

[dnl42]

First off, welcome aboard! 

 

Here's a parts diagram, it may help to better explain which part you're talking about. 

Don's Airbrush Tips is a great reference, especially the troubleshooting and tuning sections..

 

 

[tezzer66]

6 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

It all depends on paint, thinner and PSI. I do have a Neo and I will actually loosen the nose about 1/8 of a turn otherwise i get bubbles sometimes. Mine has a tendency to be overtightened as the O-ring is gone. I use bee’s wax sometimes if its overtightened the air doesn't seem to flow for me. Though it could be your pressure is too low. Or your paint isn't thinned enough ? 

Thanks for the info, I've noticed the O ring is missing so it may well be that I over tighten it, I mainly use Tamiya acrylic which I thin down in the bottle, any recommendations for other paints to use would be appreciated, and I tend to use bet 15 and 20 ps when air brushing.

[tezzer66]

11 hours ago, flyboy2610 said:

When you say nose cap, do you mean the needle cap, which is at the very front of the airbrush, or the nozzle cap, which is right behind the needle cap and covers the nozzle? I'm going to assume you mean the nozzle cap, which covers and protects the nozzle. Do you get bubbles in the paint cup when you try to spray paint? If so this is usually caused by the nozzle cap not being tight enough, or a bad O ring between the nozzle cap and the body of the airbrush. Make sure the cap is tight and sealing properly.

 

Hi and thanks for your input, you're right in saying I mean the nozzle cap and I have noticed the absence of an O ring, so I think I've been over tightening the nozzle cap.

4 hours ago, dnl42 said:

First off, welcome aboard! 

 

Here's a parts diagram, it may help to better explain which part you're talking about. 

Don's Airbrush Tips is a great reference, especially the troubleshooting and tuning sections..

 

 

Thanks, Dons site is most informative.

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

12 hours ago, tezzer66 said:

Thanks for the info, I've noticed the O ring is missing so it may well be that I over tighten it, I mainly use Tamiya acrylic which I thin down in the bottle, any recommendations for other paints to use would be appreciated, and I tend to use bet 15 and 20 ps when air brushing.

Neo’s will and can eat any paint. Ive never had any issues. Main key is to play with thinning and air pressures. When I came back I was using acrylics like Vallejo and Ammo by Mig. There company thinners or water along with low pressure. Using multiple light costs to build up color density and you will be good. You run the risk of spidering or orange peel with higher pressure or paint that is to watery. 
        Tamiya, Hataka orange, and Gunze lacquers are my usual paints. I use Tamiya Yellow cap lacquer or Gunze leveling thinner. I run about a 3-1 ratio with my Tamiya X/XF mixes and thinner. Air pressure for X/XF is between 10-12 psi. Tamiya LP mixes are about 2-1 paint to thinner and pressure is more like 18-20 psi. 
        With Hataka orange as its already a watery paint, a mix of to a milky consistency is best I can offer as it all depends on how much paint you need. But in my experience I’d say 8-1 or even 10-1 paint to Tamiya lacquer yellow cap thinner. You will need the same PSI ad the Tamiya LP paints. Gunze Mr.Color is a real thick paint and requires a good amount of thinning. Usually a 1-1 mix. Air pressure should be 29-24 psi as its is a thick paint. 
     Now with anything airbrushing practice, practice, and more practice. I recommend you adjust to your style by practicing this on a paint mule. If you need I have various paint mixes For a good number of colors. Mostly ranging from British & Commonwealth, USA, and some others. 
 

Dennis