K7 Bluebird 1/43 build

[Keith-7]

 

Here is an original Replicast 1/43 K7 Bluebird kit I've recently acquired.

This is not the greatly refined Touchwood version of the kit, it's the very old original release.

My plan for this model is for it to be more of an ornamental desktop display piece, as it's going on our living room mantelpiece.

It's not going to have a glass cover/display case, so I want it to be quite robust, with a very durable finish so I can clean the model easily and even wash it in the kitchen sink if need be, when it gets a bit dusty.

 

Anyway, here is the model right after I removed it from its old original box.

The first thing I noticed was the incorrect angle at the bottom rear of the sponsons. That fault just immediately stood out to me without even comparing it to any photos of Bluebird.

[Keith-7]

Here is one of the sponsons. The angle at the rear doesn't cut in enough, so I've made a couple of cuts here to the bottom edge in preparation for altering the angle

Edited August 31 by Keith-7

[Keith-7]

Both spoons have been corrected, but then I noticed that the lower panel running along the length of the hull was the wrong shape and far too thin, so I corrected both sides using car body filler.

[Keith-7]

Here are the corrected side panels. These took quite a while to complete, with lots of sanding, followed by the usual pin hole filling, but it looks a lot better now.

[Keith-7]

I made a new engine tailpipe using thin brass tube. 

I don't like permanently gluing parts to models if it can be avoided. I like to be able to easily remove and refit pieces for cleaning and possible maintenance purposes, so I fitted a magnet to the brass tube section and a metal bulkhead fitted inside the hull.

 

Also in the photo, you can see the rudder linkage housing has been scratch made and added.

[Keith-7]

The tail fin was a bit of a worry for a few reasons. It would have had to have been fitted before the bottom/floor of the hull was fitted really, so I could glue it from the inside and the tail would have been at risk of been broken from them on during the rest of the build. 

Also, if the tail was glued in place and it was ever chipped or damaged after the model was finished, the whole model would be ruined really and need a complete repaint.

I decided to make the tail fin removable, so I started by adding this large tab to the base of the fin.

 

[Keith-7]

 

It was quite tricky and time consuming to get the tail positioned straight vertically, so I built this housing inside the body for the tail fins tab to slot into. This housing makes it impossible for the tail fin to lean to one side.

In the previous photo of the tail fin, you can see a metal rod I added to the bottom of the tab..

 

[Keith-7]

Here the tail fin is in place and the metal rod at the bottom of the tab can just be seen.

 

[Keith-7]

The box section attached the the tail fin housing contains a magnet. It is filled with epoxy resin, so the magnet won't get wet if the model is washed.

Further forward, the white plastic going across the main spar contains two tiny magnets also which will hold the cockpit in place.

[Keith-7]

Here is the tail fin in position.

It's a shame I can't post a video of this being fitted really, as it only takes a second to slot the tail in and it simply jumps into position on its own with it being magnetic.

Edited August 31 by Keith-7

[Keith-7]

 

Here is the scratch built cockpit. It still needs more detail adding to the instrument panel and a seat making.

Two tiny magnets can be seen at the rear of the cockpit, which meet up with the magnets fitted inside the main spar inside the body.

The large round magnet on the cockpit floor doesn't do anything and is only there as a removal tool, so I can extract the cockpit from the bottom of the hull.

Edited September 16 by Keith-7
My phone causing constant typos

[Keith-7]

 

This is the antenna base. I've not made the actual antenna yet, but it will slot in place down this tiny metal tube, which acts as the thicker section of the antenna.

I also made the little dome out of an offcut of resin from the unused original cockpit floor, sanding it into shape before adding a little rod to the base of it to go into a hole drilled in the roof.

Edited August 31 by Keith-7

[Keith-7]

 

I didn't use the original resin bottom section of the hull and made one of of thick plastic sheet instead.

This is the inside of the bottom of the hull, showing another housing made for a big 20mm x 3mm round magnet. Again, the magnet is covered in epoxy resin.

This magnet will be what holds the model to the display base.

[ArnoldAmbrose]

G'day @Keith-7, this is an interesting project, and I like seeing scratch built modifications. That magnet for easy part removal is a good idea. I've heard of this boat and Donald Campbell. One of his speed records was attained on a lake less than two hours drive from here, Lake Dumbleyung.

 

You don't have to do a separate post for each photo. Multiple stages of your build can be in a single post if you wish.       Regards, Jeff.

[Keith-7]

A couple of nights ago, I finally got the bottom of the hull glued in place. My next job will be to use car body filler on the bottom and sand the whole thing perfectly flat.

 

[Keith-7]

The cockpit section in place. Again it's quick and easy to fit and remove with it being magnetic 

[Keith-7]

 

Here is the cockpit in place. The steering wheel and brass column is removable.

I've also added some missing detail to the left side of the hull and started work on the headrest.

[Keith-7]

Here is the wooden plinth for the model that I've just received. There will be a little pedestal attached to it with a round magnet which has a tapered hole in the middle to attach it to the pedestal.

The magnet inside the bottom of the hull will hold the model in position.

I also have a second display stand option, which is a nice flat based rock which I got out of the lake at Coniston last weekend.

I got the rock from where the actual film was taken of Bluebird crashing in 1967, which is also the area where they measured the speed.

Edited August 31 by Keith-7

[Keith-7]

Just out of interest, here is a "Then and Now" photo I took last weekend from the spot I got the rock from for the display base.

I added the bluebird to my photo using a photo app.

[Keith-7]

2 hours ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:

G'day @Keith-7, this is an interesting project, and I like seeing scratch built modifications. That magnet for easy part removal is a good idea. I've heard of this boat and Donald Campbell. One of his speed records was attained on a lake less than two hours drive from here, Lake Dumbleyung.

 

You don't have to do a separate post for each photo. Multiple stages of your build can be in a single post if you wish.       Regards, Jeff.

Thank you, I will have a go at attaching more photos in one post. I'm not very clued up on the image hosting links and how to use this forum.

[Steve D]

This has been on my long list for some time now, scratch-built of course, if anyone knows where I can obtain drawings, Id be most grateful.

 

Meanwhile, in case you've not seen it Keith, this illustration is on the back boards of the 16th edition of Motor Boat and Yachting Manual 1960, note the throttle linkage on the drivers left hand.

 

 

Cheers

 

Steve

[Keith-7]

I'm not sure which is the throttle linkage Steve, I would have thought it would have been on the right side where the throttle lever is. The rudder linkage is there lower left of the steering wheel (I presume that's probably what the bulge is for that I had to add to the left side).

I'm not sure what that on the left of the headrest, maybe something to do with oxygen, but that was only there on the early version of the K7.

 

Detailed reference drawings seem to be a bit hard to find for the K7. I've mainly used photos I took of the Bluebird in the Ruskin museum, or screenshots from the restoration videos on YouTube.

[Keith-7]

Bottom of the hull filled and sanded flat

[Keith-7]

 

I've made the pilots seat

[Keith-7]

The dragons teeth panel fitted