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Posted

96msSMa.jpg

 

Posting this here because I'm nowhere near ready for a wip thread yet, but I am super excited to finally get it.  Been after one for a while but I guess they are out of production as I've only ever seen them on Ebay, usually going for silly money by my standards for a plastic model kit.  This one came up at what I considered a bargain price, presumably because the seller had opened bags, and removed some parts from sprues and attempted to cast in clear resin to light it.  The resin parts didn't come out as well as he'd hoped.  I'm a sucker for a bargain, and I wanted to build it not collect it, as long as all parts are present and undamaged (which they are) it was a no brainer.  I was the only bidder, and got it for the opening bid.  Then I realised the seller was close enough for me to collect and save £5 shipping, so I bagged it for under £20.

 

Worked out well as the Mk VI from Iron Man 2 is my second favourite suit, because of the triangular chest arc reactor.  My favourite suit is the Mk XLII from Iron Man 3.

 

I had originally planned to light my kit when I finally got one.  I thought it would be a case of carefully cutting away the plastic where needed, and covering the hole with some acetate or similar.  I did not realise the lit up parts were moulded in white plastic (presumably to cater for those who wanted to build without even painting).  I've never attempted to cast parts myself before, and assumed it was a niche skill.  However, seeing what the seller had done himself has made me think maybe I can do something similar, and push myself to learn something new.  Looks like his main issue was that the resin went yellow, but the triangular chest arc reactor doesn't quite fit into the chest plate as well as it should.

 

tXtKFyW.jpg

 

I have some UV curing resin that to the best of my knowledge stays clear, but I will test this.  I will need to research the silicon rubber moulding stuff, looks like plasticine that cures rubbery.  But I will probably make new moulds to use this as a test learn how to cast my own parts, maybe useful going forward.  And if it doesn't work, well I just watched @Hunter Rose do a pretty good tutorial on own to paint something like its lit up anyway :D 

 

I also need to test various reds to get the colour I want.

 

Anyway, super happy with this one so had to share.  Can't wait to have everything in place to start it.

  • Like 3
Posted

Oh nice! Those Moebius iron man kits always have a special place in my heart, never made this o e but did a couple of the old mk111 kits. 

I spent most of the time masking I think! 

Glad you got a bargain. 

And I have to use glow effects as lighting has always been my achiles heel!! :lol:

  • Haha 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Hunter Rose said:

And I have to use glow effects as lighting has always been my achiles heel!! :lol:

 

And I'm the opposite, good and wiring lights up because I can't paint effects at all :D 

  • Haha 1
Posted

How will you paint him? I'm only asking because if its any help if its airbrush the way I used to paint ironman was gloss black base - alclad aluminium - alclad hot metal red. Hot metal red is such a nice colour!

  • Like 1
Posted
10 hours ago, Hunter Rose said:

How will you paint him? I'm only asking because if its any help if its airbrush the way I used to paint ironman was gloss black base - alclad aluminium - alclad hot metal red. Hot metal red is such a nice colour!

 

I'm still researching colours.  I've never used Alclad, but I will look them up, but its a no go if they are volatile.  The main reason I use Vallejo primarily is that they are water based, and my LMS stocked them so I had easy access.  I have no ventilation for lacquer based stuff, especially when airbrushing.  Although I do occasionally shoot Tamiya acrylic clears in small amounts, but I have to open the window and get a fan running and leave the room after for a bit.

  • Like 1
Posted
59 minutes ago, HoolioPaulio said:

 

I'm still researching colours.  I've never used Alclad, but I will look them up, but its a no go if they are volatile.  The main reason I use Vallejo primarily is that they are water based, and my LMS stocked them so I had easy access.  I have no ventilation for lacquer based stuff, especially when airbrushing.  Although I do occasionally shoot Tamiya acrylic clears in small amounts, but I have to open the window and get a fan running and leave the room after for a bit.

 

Oh man then that's probably a no go, alclad is lacquer and as such it is seriously fumey! 

You'd probably get good results from a clear red over a metallic base with acrylics too, but however you do it I'm looking forward to seeing it come together! 

  • Like 1

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