Eduard P-51B/C Engine (6481004 for Eduard) 1:48

[Mike]

P-51B/C Engine (6481004 for Eduard)

1:48 Eduard Brassin

 

 

Eduard released their new P-51D Mustang to much joy, followed later by the razor-backed P-51B/C both in 1:48, making theirs the new de facto standard in the scale.  We’ve already seen a handful of upgrade sets already, and reviewed a group of them here a little while back.  Now the engine set has arrived.  As usual with Eduard's larger resin sets, they arrive in a Brassin-themed black-orange-and-yellow cardboard box, with the resin parts safely cocooned in bags between layers of grey foam, and the instructions folded around acting as additional padding.

 

This set will furnish you with almost everything you need to depict the Rolls-Royce Merlin, or Packard-built Merlin in astonishing detail, after removing a short section of the nose from your kit, safe in the knowledge that as it was designed by the same folks that engineered your kit, so it’ll fit well, as I’ve found in the past.  As to what else you’ll need, that extends to the usual paint and glue, especially super glue (CA), and some lengths of fine wire of various diameters including 0.2mm, 0.3mm, 0.4mm, 0.5mm, and 0.6mm, all of which have their diameter and length shown on the instructions, along with a representation of the shape it should be formed to in colour to further assist you.  Inside the box are fifty-five resin parts in two shades of grey, a small Photo-Etch (PE) brass fret, and the instruction booklet that is printed in colour on both sides of five sheets of A4 paper.  Detail is exquisite, and the build process is covered step-by-step over thirty instruction stages, with the adaptation of the fuselage halves only undertaken at step 29.

 

 

 

Construction begins with the engine block, which has the space in between the cylinder banks detailed by adding an insert into the V, fitting the generator to the side, and detailing the supercharger with seven additional parts.  The part that filled the void between the cylinder banks is wired with twelve lengths of 0.2mm wire courtesy of a highly detailed step with seven exploded views to assist with their locations.  The reduction gear housing is fitted to the front of the block, adding the horseshoe-shaped header tank and some pumping gear over the top, fixing some wires to the port side of the block, between the block and the supercharger on both sides, then adding several mechanical linkages from the PE sheet on both sides.  The magneto and boost control equipment are mounted over the supercharger, and more wires link it to the engine, followed by fitment of the six exhaust stubs on each side, with a choice of shrouded or unshrouded pipes, painting the shrouds the exterior camouflage colour.

 

Engine bearers are built from two sides with a horseshoe cross-member, plus PE actuators on the starboard tip.  Additionally, a hose is applied to the starboard bearer for P-51B-5 and P-51C-1s, then the Merlin can be lowered onto the four bearers, fitting a long actuator down the port side from the PE sheet.  The next few steps install several hoses around the engine, then detailing the firewall bulkhead with a strapped down tank, a PE skin to the lower portion, several wires of 0.4mm diameter, and a resin hose, after which it can be mated to the rear of the engine bearers, running another wire down the top of the starboard engine bearer, and more hoses linking everything in the rear together.  A spider-like assembly of 0.6mm wires is measured, cut and put together over the top of the motor, with scrap diagrams showing where they terminate, adding another into the rear along with two PE actuators, and a small resin block.  The framework that holds the upper cowling is mounted over the engine, attaching to the tops of the engine bearers, whilst under the motor, you have a choice of two styles of supercharger intake trunk, one for the two types mentioned above, with a choice of a flush insert in the nose cowling, or one with auxiliary intakes on the sides, which gave rise to the perforated or louvred panels under the nose of the Mustang.  A small PE part is added at the rear, and if you fitted the aux. intakes, there is a PE actuator and a small insert at the front of the unit.  Your choice of intake is fitted to the motor, linking at the rear to the bottom of the supercharger.

 

With the engine upright again, an actuator fits between the engine bearer and supercharger intake on the port side, and a PE strip is added to the starboard side of the intake for some options.  A single resin part forms the structure of the nose in front of the engine, with two more formers fitted under the motor toward the rear, completing the assembly.  Now you must remove the nose from the kit’s fuselage halves, as per the drawings marked in red, after which the engine assembly should slot straight in, adding the propeller axle to the front, and optionally you can mount the prop, depending on what state of undress the engine is intended to be.  There are now all the cowling panels that are removed to expose the engine, eight in total, all but one require nothing more than to remove them from their casting blocks and paint them.  The panel under the nose has two holes toward the front, into which the three optional inserts fit.  You can have a flat panel for those airframes without the aux. intakes, louvred panels, or perforated panels with four rows of eight holes in the centre of the parts.  These are glued into position and should sit flush with the rest of the panel, except for the louvres that project outward slightly.

 

 

Markings

There are no decals, but there are full painting instructions on every step of the booklet, using Gunze Sangyo Mr Colour H and C codes to assist with painting.  There are also suggestions to help with the colours of the cowlings, which will of course be painted on both sides and strewn around the model.

 

 

Conclusion

Another awesome engine set with a significant wow factor.  Take care to follow the instructions carefully, try not to rush, and remove paint from any mating surfaces, as tolerances are close for it to make a difference.  Once complete, it should make viewers’ eyes pop when they see the level of detail.

 

Very highly recommended.

 

 

Review sample courtesy of