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Fairey FD2 (Dorawings) & English Electric P1a (Airfix/Aeroclub)


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The Dorawings kit is a significant step forward in the products from outside the mainstream. Most of it went together very well. Most problems were self inflicted. The only significant problems with the Dorawings kit involve the nose section. That long nose probe is moulded as part of the fuselage nose and my first reaction was that it was unlikely to survive the building process. This was borne out shortly after assembly commenced when I realised that the end had gone missing and there was no trace of it so I did not know exactly how long to make the replacement. Repair was not an option. Even if possible it was bound to happen again so a replacement was made using brass tubing of various diameters but leaving the thinnest off until painting was about to start. There are several vanes supposed to fit on the probe. These are made from PE and there was no way my fingers could get them in position without them pinging off across the workbench. If anyone knows how to do it please tell me.

The canopy is another problem. There were fitting problems but the real trouble for me was the masking. I could not get the masks for the window in the roof and the 'portholes' to stick in position and replacements had to be made without great success. I think that it spoils the look of the whole model.

The NMF is Alclad applied over gloss black.

After applying the NMF there arose a problem with the decals. See here for details

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235139192-dora-fairey-fd2-decal-problem/

 

The P1a was built many years ago using the Aeroclub vacform fuselage and the rest from an Airfix F3 but I thought that it should be included here for comparison as both originated at almost the same time.

 

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John

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48 minutes ago, John R said:

I think that it spoils the look of the whole model.

I wouldn't worry about it, John. It looks good to me in the pictures. In fact both of them do. As @Drakendk says above, the finish is beautiful.

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Wow what a coincidence I'm building the Dora FD2 and the Aeroclub P1A right now! 

Both builds look jolly nice.

 

I too broke the probe off but I got as far as painting before I knocked the whole thing on the floor. I had kept a section of the sprue attached to the nose for a long part of the construction and then taped a length of straw over it while preparing it for tape. Fortunately I'd masked the tip off after painting it steel which made it easy to find

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I find with some masks it’s best to give up at the starting gate and apply them to Kabuki tape and just use them as a template. For the nose probe , saw it off and put a brass pin in to attach it at the end of construction. The vanes, for those of us without the steady hands of a surgeon, you can get third hand tweezers that you can position the part at your leisure, glue it and gently release the tweezers.
 

For all your struggles, you got a magnificent result. Both efforts look great. 

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2 hours ago, JamesP said:

Wow what a coincidence I'm building the Dora FD2 and the Aeroclub P1A right now! 

Both builds look jolly nice.

 

I too broke the probe off but I got as far as painting before I knocked the whole thing on the floor. I had kept a section of the sprue attached to the nose for a long part of the construction and then taped a length of straw over it while preparing it for tape. Fortunately I'd masked the tip off after painting it steel which made it easy to find

Thank you for the compliment. I have seen your P1a and it looks like a more thorough build than mine. That comment about keeping the sprue attached is most interesting and helpful. I would still be worried about breaking the whole thing off at a much later date. I usually replace all plastic pitots with one made from brass tube.

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1 hour ago, Robin-42 said:

I find with some masks it’s best to give up at the starting gate and apply them to Kabuki tape and just use them as a template.

I wish I had thought of that

 

1 hour ago, Robin-42 said:

 For the nose probe , saw it off and put a brass pin in to attach it at the end of construction.

As I said to JamesP above you are still worried about breaking the end off at a later date

 

1 hour ago, Robin-42 said:

The vanes, for those of us without the steady hands of a surgeon, you can get third hand tweezers that you can position the part at your leisure, glue it and gently release the tweezers.

A big part of the problem would be getting them into the tweezers in the first place. All my efforts to pick them up with tweezers or other methods ended up in them pinging off into space and it was amazing how far they went. One chap did a WIP of the FD2 and he managed to attach all 4 of them. My mouth is still wide open in amazement

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Picking up the microscopic photo etch. There is a product called Micro stix which is like a toothpick with a blob of non hardening sticky stuff on the end. I found another guy who said he licks the tip of his finger, picks the part up with that, then transfers it to the tweezers. The model ship guys are probably experts at this.

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On 4/25/2024 at 6:14 PM, Robin-42 said:

Picking up the microscopic photo etch. There is a product called Micro stix which is like a toothpick with a blob of non hardening sticky stuff on the end. I found another guy who said he licks the tip of his finger, picks the part up with that, then transfers it to the tweezers. The model ship guys are probably experts at this.

I found that the wet, sticky finger works well. I wonder if the difficulty in picking things up and the tendency for the PE to zing off into space it is something to do with static electricity which is not present when a wet finger is used.

I tried a version of the Micro stix idea by using a blob of Blue Tack on the end of a toothpick. I didn't quite succeed but got close enough to think that with more patience than I had at the time it could work. Thank you for the idea.

John

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