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Minicraft 1/16th scale MGTC Build


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After a prolonged absence I'm back at my makeshift workbench. I've managed to collect several kits of my favorite British sports cars including the postwar (1948) MG TC. I've started on one of them which is the re-issued kit by Minicraft in the 2000's. I also have two of 1970's issue Entex kits in my stash. The kit itself is a very nice with much of the mouldings still crisp with minimal flash and a few sink marks here and there. Anyway, I started with the engine. I've added a few bits based on my reference photos. 

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I separated the various pulleys from the moulded fan belt and filed the V grooves as I will scratch build the belt at a later stage.

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I also made the adjustment bracket for the generator.

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I will modify the generator to add the drive unit in the rear.

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Here's the stock kit's firewall. A lot of modifications will have to be made to match my reference photos.

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I scribed the edges of the lids and the "X" on front of the battery box to add further definition. Scratch built one of the latches.

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With a bit of primer to check things. Now I just have three more to do.

 

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I turned my attention to the kit's steering wheel. I was not happy with the "toy like" appearance.

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I decided to try and convert it to a Brooklands style four spoke wheel. I started by stretching some sprue from the kit. 

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I started by cutting one of the spokes, reshaping the hub and the spoke stub and added one of the wires.

 

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It's a bit nerve wracking.

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Finished one of the spokes. It was a constant struggle to try and keep the spacing even. I'll set this aside and allow the cement to cure. Hopefully, it will be firm enough to allow me to handle cutting the other spoke in sequence and add the next spoke. Thanks for looking.

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Wow!  That's a fine piece of work, this will be worth following.  Lovely job so far.

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3 hours ago, Neddy said:

Wow!  That's a fine piece of work, this will be worth following.  Lovely job so far.

Thank you Neddy. Let's see if I don't get too ambitious and I actually bring this to a finish. 🤣

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Shifted my attention to the windscreen. The plating leaves something to be desired and the frame looks way too thick to be convincing. Another downside is that the plating covers up any misalignments in the moulds so that there is an almost visible parting line. A quick bath in Purple Power degreaser to strip off all the chrome. 

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Next step is to remove the god awful moulded in wipers and to clean up the backside slot where the replacement clear will be sitting in. I've also drilled out where the wiper arms will pivot. 

 

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The kit doesn't have a positive locating feature to help locate the stays in assembly except for barely discernible "X"s molded to indicate locations. I've gone ahead and drilled the two holes on each side of the cowl and I carefully drilled out the braces to accept bits of stretched sprue so that I can locate things in final assembly.

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With the windscreen in place.

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Looking forward to watching your build!
 

This brings back a lot of memories. I built two of these simultaneously about 30 years ago, a red one for my dad and a BRG one for a friend of his who had a green TC in his garage. Dad was one of the co-founders of the NC MG Car Club.

 

Ben

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On 4/21/2024 at 3:21 PM, Ben Brown said:

Looking forward to watching your build!
 

This brings back a lot of memories. I built two of these simultaneously about 30 years ago, a red one for my dad and a BRG one for a friend of his who had a green TC in his garage. Dad was one of the co-founders of the NC MG Car Club.

 

Ben

 

On 4/22/2024 at 2:16 AM, Noel Smith said:

This has the makings of a very nice model with the refinements being done to it

Thank you Ben Brown. I'm actually leaning towards the red for this build.

 

Thank you Noel. We'll see how well I pull it off.

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Just a few updates:

I tackled the other spoke. Looks a bit wonky so I might have to rethink my approach.

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I found this tool to be extremely handy in trimming the tiny bits of stretched sprue.

 

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I got ambitious after looking at a whole bunch of reference photos. Evidently, there is a guide on the stays that allows the windscreen to be locked in position. It's missing on the kit. So I tried my hand at modifying the relevant parts. 

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A bit on the large size due to limitations on my skills but shouldn't look too bad once it's painted chrome. 

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Now onto the other side.

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A tool that I found handy is my old drafting lead holder. It can hold the various drills as well as pins. Very useful.

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Started on the wipers.

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A few more updates. 

Made a bit more progress on the steering wheel. I'm still not pleased with how it looks so I will try a different approach.

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Started on the rear differential. It's going to need a lot of cleanup and a few mods to come close to my reference photos.

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Unfortunately, I was clumsy when I cut the rear axle off of the parts tree and I had inadvertently cut the little nib that will locate the knock offs in a later assembly. I've had to file off the stubs, drill and insert some styrene rods.

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Started on the floor/firewall. My photos indicate that the floor is wood except for the transmission tunnel and the firewall. I had to fill in some prominent ejector marks. My old painting knife really works a treat when applying putty.

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I tried several materials to try and duplicate the rubber cover that goes over the transmission tunnel and shift boot. I hit upon using some two part molding putty. I mixed it and rolled it flat. Since it's my first go at it, it's lumpy and ugly but it's promising.

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I wasn't careful with trimming but I just wanted to validate the approach. I also tried some Tamiya Acrylic Semi-Gloss Black but the silicone is highly resistant to acrylic. I'll try airbrushing some Tamiya LP Rubber next. Anyway, I just need to refine my handling of the silicone. 

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Posted (edited)

Added a little more detail before proceeding.

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Second attempt didn't work out too well as I had rolled the mold putty too thin. However, I dusted the outside of the putty with talcum powder and used an inflated disposable glove to press down on the putty to mould it into shape. Sorry about the poor quality of the photo.

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Third attempt. This time I also dusted the molded plastic with talcum so that the putty will slide easier as it tries to form around the contour. I also rolled the putty a little thicker this time. (It still looks like I'm making pizza dough...LOL)

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The trimmed and painted results. I used some Duplicolor Trim & Bumper Paint which has a flex agent in it. All in all it doesn't look too bad. I'll set it aside for now so that I move on to the other bits.

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Edited by mikevillena
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Minor updates.

 

Gave the grill and headlight buckets a 15 minute soak in a vat of Purple Power degreaser.  You can see that the original chroming didn't make it to the inside of the headlight buckets. That and the awkward loss of chrome when one cuts the part from the tree especially on the sides of the grill. I will eventually spray the chrome bits with Alclad II Black Primer and Alclad II Chrome.

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Switched focus onto the chassis parts. Lots of cleanup was required as the parting lines and draft angles were prominent. I chose to thin out the hoops that secure the axle since they're supposed to formed out of thin metal strips. p?i=39c1b22abf1b2151bc63c7ca4673d084

 

I also added bump stops. I did one side after I thinned out the hoop and realized that I should have glue the bump stop BEFORE thinning out the hoop. Fortunately, I didn't break anything. 

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Moved onto the firewall and scuttle (I think that's what you Brits call it). Added more details as per my reference photos.

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I also carved out the swagged  "X"s on the firewall. I'll have to add the corresponding  "X" shapes on the other side which will be visible if the doors are open.

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I'm thinking of redoing the rubber boot.

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Anyway, thanks for looking. Good luck on your projects.

 

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