What acrylic paint and top coat to use?

[ajwebb]

Hello,

 

I am currently building a Revell 1/32 EC-145, and I am using Vallejo paints for everything interior. But I am unsure what to use for the exterior. I WAS going to airbrush Vallejo, but after seeing how it lays down on large parts, I am having second thoughts. How good are the Tamiya paints for airbrushing. I am US based, so Tamiya and Vallejo are really my only major acrylic options (unless I missed another).

 

Also, what clear/varnish should I use? I am trying to replicate this helicopter below, and it appears to have somewhat of a showroom shine (when it is washed anyway). I want a nice gloss clear coat/varnish, but I don't want it to be too heavy/thick that it covers up the rivets in the process.

 

https://www.jetphotos.com/registration/N445CH

 

Edit: Also, if I mask the windows, how do I get the masks off after layers of paint and gloss?

Edited April 12 by ajwebb
Another question

[Zorglub]

Don't worry, Tamiya paints are very good, easy to use and easy to thin.
And Tamiya paints are also quite easy to use for the airbrush.
However, Vallejo thinner is not compatible with Tamiya paints.
You can thin Tamiya with the Tamiya thinner, of course, but also with alcohol if you want, no worries.

[dogsbody]

If using Tamiya, I recommend getting this, to slow down drying time, especially if airbrushing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chris

[ajwebb]

38 minutes ago, dogsbody said:

If using Tamiya, I recommend getting this, to slow down drying time, especially if airbrushing.

What happens if I don't use that?

[Pete in Lincs]

I use Tamiya, both brushed and airbrushed. but I've never used the retarder. I've never had a problem with drying times. 

Thin the paint to the consistency of milk. I use Tamiya thinner or car screen wash. Practice on a scrap model first!

You've chosen a challenging scheme to mask. Good luck!

The (Tamiya) masking tape peels off nicely, Cheaper versions of the same material are available.

But I wouldn't leave it for longer than a couple of weeks or the dried paint on the edges may peel off.

 

I've used Tamiya rattle can gloss, semi gloss and matt clears with no problem. Spray from a distance. Light coats.

 

[Casey]

4 hours ago, ajwebb said:

I am US based, so Tamiya and Vallejo are really my only major acrylic options (unless I missed another).

I am in the US too. There are plenty of options

 

You can easilly spray Tamiya, retarder is useful, but not required, but you definitely need a thinner. It is one of better spraying paints (also it is not pure water based acrylic, it is solvent so it is good idea to use a mask, spray booth, and good ventilation)

 

Vallejo go really well, especially if thinned with flow improver, thinner and retarder. But I have question: What do you mean by 'after seeing how it goes on larger surfaces'?

Edited April 13 by Casey

[ajwebb]

8 minutes ago, Casey said:

Vallejo go really well, especially if thinned with flow improver, thinner and retarder. But I have question: What do you mean by 'after seeing how it goes on larger surfaces'?

Certain pigments seem to pool. Vallejo black is great, but I just finished spraying Gunmetal Grey and it tends to pool. And it's the same with the grey primer. I may need a different color primer.

[Casey]

26 minutes ago, ajwebb said:

Certain pigments seem to pool. Vallejo black is great, but I just finished spraying Gunmetal Grey and it tends to pool. And it's the same with the grey primer. I may need a different color primer.

What is your technique? My recommended one for water based acrylics is: many thin mists, with flash dry between them. Do a thin mist, then flash dry with air from airbrush, then do next one. Repeat it like 10 times or so to build up a paint layer gradually. Since the paint dries almost immediately, you can see when you can add next layer. You do not need to put model away between them, the flash dry takes literally seconds. This is a method I use with all water based acrylics (and also helps a lot with Tamiya).

Edited April 13 by Casey

[ajwebb]

17 minutes ago, Casey said:

What is your technique? My recommended one for water based acrylics is: many thin mists, with flash dry between them. Do a thin mist, then flash dry with air from airbrush, then do next one. Repeat it like 10 times or so to build up a paint layer gradually. Since the paint dries almost immediately, you can see when you can add next layer. You do not need to put model away between them, the flash dry takes literally seconds. This is a method I use with all water based acrylics (and also helps a lot with Tamiya).

My technique was 3 layers. It was fine with the black, but apparently not for the watery paints.

 

I'll definitely give that a try next time, thanks.

 

But I still plan on using Tamiya for the exterior.

Edited April 13 by ajwebb

[Casey]

7 minutes ago, ajwebb said:

My technique was 3 layers. It was fine with the black, but apparently not for the watery paints.

 

I'll definitely give that a try next time, thanks.

 

But I still plan on using Tamiya for the exterior.

It is also a good way to go on Tamiya, it is containing solvent but it is still a water based paint. Don't be afraid to experiment

[Casey]

Just out of curiosity, which color scheme are you getting for this copter?

 

If you are looking for good set of colored primers, I'd go for Stynylrez (especially since you are in the USA)

 

https://usaairbrushsupply.com/t/stynylrez-primers

 

Hard to find anything better than those, especially in water acrylic range.

 

[ajwebb]

9 hours ago, Casey said:

Just out of curiosity, which color scheme are you getting for this copter

It was on the first post, but I'll put it down here as well.

 

https://www.jetphotos.com/registration/N445CH

 

The children logos will be custom printed stickers.

[flyboy2610]

11 hours ago, Casey said:

What is your technique? My recommended one for water based acrylics is: many thin mists, with flash dry between them. Do a thin mist, then flash dry with air from airbrush, then do next one. Repeat it like 10 times or so to build up a paint layer gradually. Since the paint dries almost immediately, you can see when you can add next layer. You do not need to put model away between them, the flash dry takes literally seconds. This is a method I use with all water based acrylics (and also helps a lot with Tamiya).

That is also how I spray all acrylics. They have to be built up in light coats. If you try to glob them on all at once, you will have problems for sure! And use a primer. Acrylics over bare plastic don't work too well.

I've learned a lot from this guys videos. He's a great teacher:

 

[Chuck1945]

I’m starting to use Vallejo some for cockpits and have used Tamiya X/XF series paints for year airbrushing using Tamiya’s X-20A thinner. While I have the Tamiya LP and Mr Color clear paints as well, most often I end up using Tamiya XF-86 Clear Flat and X-22 Clear Gloss.

[Casey]

2 hours ago, ajwebb said:

It was on the first post, but I'll put it down here as well.

That's a beautiful scheme!

 

I'd use white primer for all

 

As some people mentioned, this looks like a very difficult scheme. Since you have custom printed stickers, it may be a challenge to get same colors of rest of the paint as stickers.

 

If I was tackling this, I'd first check if my cutter machine can get masks for children shapes to spray them with same color as the rest of the model for consistency (especially small ones)

 

If not, I'd try to get decals for those small ones and match them to the paint as much as possible and use masks for everything else.

 

Alternatively and that would be the easy option - I'd pant model full white and use decals to get the colors all over. The quality will depend on decals then.

Edited April 13 by Casey

[dogsbody]

16 hours ago, ajwebb said:

What happens if I don't use that?

 

Nothing will happen.

If you are hand-brushing, it will help in avoiding brush streaks.

If air-brushing, it will give you some time for masking removal.

 

It's not necessary to use it.

 

 

 

 

Chris

[ajwebb]

12 hours ago, Chuck1945 said:

most often I end up using Tamiya XF-86 Clear Flat and X-22 Clear Gloss.

Does the Gloss have any orange peel, and how thick is it? I don't want to lose the rivet detail before the decal application.

[Chuck1945]

Orange peel on a paint finish is a function of how you sprayed the paint, not the paint itself. If your paint is properly thinned and applied, no orange peel. Likewise if you spray heavy coats of paint you might obscure surface detail but essentially any paint designed for model use, properly applied won’t normally hide surface details