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The Curtiss P-6E ‒ Step 9: ... and stars


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Thanks Tommy @Tommy Liu. The A-12, B-10 and many of the later P-26 were finished (repainted) in A/N standard colours when in 1938 Light Blue No.23 was dropped in favour of the Navy's True Blue, which is more towards a reddish blue. True Blue is much easier to replicate than this unnerving Light Blue.

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Michael,

 

Yes, the Curtiss P-6 is one of my favorites too! Indeed the Golden Age.

I had an old Aurora one, I later replaced it with the Lindberg one, the one you are building now.

I still remember the struggle to paint those eagle claws on the wheel pants...😀

 

BTW I did an conversion of the 1/48 Lindberg Goshawk to a BF2C-1 with the retractable undercarriage,

 

So good luck with your building program !  I will follow it with great interest.

 

Cheers

JohnHaa

 

Edited by JohnHaa
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Thank you John @JohnHaa! It's interesting to find out which parts of either the Classic Airframes or Lindberg kit are better suited. The Lindberg is still competitive - the fuselage is not quite the same standard but the wings appear more useful, especially since the CA wings are grossly mis-shaped (unsymmetrical!). That will bite me when I come to the F6C build.

 

I refrained from representing the 17th PS with the hawk decoration. Difficult as it may be you see it too often and I wanted a blue/yellow addition to my collection.

 

I admire your skills (as always) to scratch-build the BF2C. I got the Freedom kit which is excellent, and I'm looking forward to working with it. That will become the best kit/model of my series.

 

Cheers, Michael

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5 hours ago, Toryu said:

the wings appear more useful, especially since the CA wings are grossly mis-shaped (unsymmetrical!). That will bite me when I come to the F6C build.

Maybe make patterns based on them. Laminate plastic sheet and cut-out, file, sand to shape ? Better than attempting to use the bad ones ? 

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Than you for the paint samples, these will be be useful in the future. I have an Olimp 1/72 P-6E in the stash, if I ever build it, I will try to mix a passable Light Blue #23. I also have two 1/72 P-26 Peashooters, from Pavla and AZ. I was planning to build one of them in Olive Drab. What hobby paint would you use for Olive Drab 22, or would you mix your own?

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Great work so far, having an old Aurora F11C kit in the stash, I'll be sure to follow along for inspiration 👍.

 

I'm also interested in how you'll approach the F6C build in the US Navy GB 🤔

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15 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Maybe make patterns based on them

 

Thanks for the idea, Dennis. I'm not sure yet how to approach it. Momentarily I consider two options: (1) Right-shape the Classic Airframes wing (it's a bit oversize so it may work) or (2) use my surplus F11C wing although ailerons are different, and I may need it for my BFC-2 reconstruction in the KUTA GB.

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3 hours ago, TheKinksFan said:

What hobby paint would you use for Olive Drab 22, or would you mix your own?

 

I used Tamiya XF-62 for my P-12 here, and for my P-26 here. Basically every standard olive drab seems OK, but it should be rather brownish than greenish.

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It is fascinating to follow such a labor of Love! Forza Michael!

 

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  • Toryu changed the title to The Curtiss P-6E ‒ Step 7: Lower extremities

Step 7 ‒ Lower extremities  see first post on page 1.

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A lot of nice work going into this one and all worthwhile to create an accurate replica :thumbsup:

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  • Toryu changed the title to The Curtiss P-6E ‒ Step 8: Half way through

Step 8 ‒ Half way through  see first post on page 1.

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Beautiful work, Toryu.

 

It's odd to hear the Classic Airframe's kit is oversize. The RS Hawk IIs and Goshawk in 1/72 have wings a bit broader, and fuselages a bit deeper, than the equivalent Monogram kits. Being fond of the Monogram kits, I've never bothered to check which is right. I'm digging out an old MPM Hawk III, and will see if it's wing matches one or the other, or presents yet a third option....

 

 

"Your research isn't complete till your confusion is."

 

 

James

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1 hour ago, Old Man said:

It's odd to hear the Classic Airframe's kit is oversize.

 

(1/48) It's not oversize actually. The fuselage is well to scale (like Lindberg's) albeit a tad too short at the stern and the lower wing sits way too much forward. The Lindberg fuselage is cruder. Lindberg's wings are the better choice in my view (rip representation, connecting pins) but need adjustment at the wing tip end of the ailerons. The Classic Airframes upper wing has an asymmetrical plan form (although I'm using it for my F6C) and the lower wings are one-piece halves without pins, i.e. very difficult to fix correctly, so I discarded them completely.

Overall the Classic Airframes model is a nightmare to build, with or without Lindberg parts, as you can read in my WIP.

 

Cheers, Michael

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1 hour ago, Toryu said:

 

(1/48) It's not oversize actually. The fuselage is well to scale (like Lindberg's) albeit a tad too short at the stern and the lower wing sits way too much forward. The Lindberg fuselage is cruder. Lindberg's wings are the better choice in my view (rip representation, connecting pins) but need adjustment at the wing tip end of the ailerons. The Classic Airframes upper wing has an asymmetrical plan form (although I'm using it for my F6C) and the lower wings are one-piece halves without pins, i.e. very difficult to fix correctly, so I discarded them completely.

Overall the Classic Airframes model is a nightmare to build, with or without Lindberg parts, as you can read in my WIP.

 

Cheers, Michael

 

 

Damn!

 

How do you even do that?

 

I sometimes wonder if anyone at the company ever builds these things before they go on market.....

 

 

James

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  • Toryu changed the title to The Curtiss P-6E ‒ Step 9: Struts and strings

This was the toughest part, and it took almost two weeks, aggravated by the lack of positioning pins. I checked out every possible strut combination (Classic Airframes, Lone Star Models, Lindberg) to find the best compromise between length, angle and rigidity. Finally I settled with LSM white metal cabane struts and aileron push-rods for stiffness and good old Lindberg interplane struts (duly shortened) to match the holes in the Lindberg wings.

 

53791013783_9dc7127d12_c.jpg

 

For rigging I used my trusted 0.1" Griffin Jewelry Wire and by selectively tensing the knotted ends within the open wing I gently pulled the lower plane towards a balanced position. The pitot tube on the starboard interplane strut and the telescopic sight are scratch parts.

 

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22 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Almost there

 

Yes, one should think so, Dennis. But the remaining detail is overwhelming. Today I spent two hours forming and adding wire fairings... I hope to finish the build by month end!

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Looks ace, Toryu!

 

And kudos for the 'working rigging'. I've done that a few times with the elastic thread to secure an alignment wasn't quite there otherwise.

 

 

James

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