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1:48 Tamiya Me262 A-1a


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That is very nice work John, the masks have worked very well. You did a very good job aligning the swastika.

May I ask which brand of white paint you used as I struggle to get good coverage with white, especially over camouflage colours.

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3 minutes ago, modelling minion said:

That is very nice work John, the masks have worked very well. You did a very good job aligning the swastika.

May I ask which brand of white paint you used as I struggle to get good coverage with white, especially over camouflage colours.

thanks

for both the black and white I've used MRP paints, down side is that their lacquer based, so you need a respirator and either an "open window" (as I have) or preferably a paint booth with extraction. 

the thing I really like about MRP paints is that they don't need thinning, you can use them straight from the pot, I built the opacity in light layers, that way you can avoid "ridges" against the mask edging.

I convinced that if my RLM MRP colours had arrived that I'd be able to get the mottling far closer to what I want however they haven't so I've used MrColor that I had to thin. I'm 99% certain that I didn't get the thinning "just right" and therefor they sprayed a little inconstantly, for "normal" camo' their fine and along with Tamiya are my "fall back" options, MRP being first choice.

the Tamiya LP-11 is also lacquer based

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Those are nicely done, John. Every time I see one of your builds where you've sprayed the markings I think I should give it a go myself, and I really should do, as it looks better than decals

 

James

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2 hours ago, 81-er said:

Those are nicely done, John. Every time I see one of your builds where you've sprayed the markings I think I should give it a go myself, and I really should do, as it looks better than decals

 

James

thanks James

 

for some reason I really don't like decals, I used to love them as a kid, but now I've no idea why but I don't, I've very rarely had issues with decals, I do like the "new" Eduard peelable ones and the HGW wet transfers I can highly recommend.

Masking and spraying isn't easier, the chances of misalignment, overspray, paint seeping under the masks, white outlines on roundels etc etc can sometimes make you wish you'd not started.

Having said all that, the more I use Montex, I've not used any other make and don't (currently) have the ability to make my own (I'm planning to remedy this soonish) the easier they've become, I've not tried any at 1:72 however I don't really think they'd be very different (apart from smaller and very fiddly to align)

 

I do like the option to wear and weather the aircraft markings, I'm sure you could achieve similar results on decals I just feel "safer" with painted versions, I've previously damaged decals by placing masking tape on them and then parts of the decal coming off with the tape, the same could happen with painted ones, but I think its far less likely and as I use vinyl masks they can always be reused if repairs are needed.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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As said above, John. The markings look great. I've weathered decals before with Micromesh. They do need to be of good quality though.

1 hour ago, shortCummins said:

and then parts of the decal coming off with the tape

Been there, done that too :laugh:

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6 hours ago, shortCummins said:

Masking and spraying isn't easier, the chances of misalignment, overspray, paint seeping under the masks, white outlines on roundels etc etc can sometimes make you wish you'd not started.

I have to say though your results with them were superb, and the more I see them used effectively the closer I am to trying them. 👍

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7 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

As said above, John. The markings look great. I've weathered decals before with Micromesh. They do need to be of good quality though.

Been there, done that too :laugh:

 

1 hour ago, Wings unlevel said:

I have to say though your results with them were superb, and the more I see them used effectively the closer I am to trying them. 👍

thanks chaps

 

I can only encourage you to give them a go, if they don't work for you, we're all different aren't we, you'll always be able to "fall back" on decals?

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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53584275647_0fb27e835c.jpg

 

I found this photo on the old interweb…

53587294545_e01e0bf375.jpg

…I’m not sure that this will work however I’m going to try and represent presumably puttied(?) fuselage rivets.

 

To try and achieve this I need to mask “squares” (48 squares used) before over-spraying with some very thinned colour…

53587292254_c3376eb9b5_c.jpg

 

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…the thinned colour MRP-117 extra dark sea grey, 98% MrRapid thinner 2% paint was then misted over the masks…

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Next I’ll be adding the stencil decals.

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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17 minutes ago, modelling minion said:

I think thats the first time I have seen that done John and it is very effective, very well done.

thanks

 

I wasn't sure it would work, its a little too pronounced but as a proof of concept I'm really happy.

 

I've over-sprayed the 4's and I think reducing the "bands" makes them work better...

53587183536_336a756c8a_c.jpg

 

...I probably won't over-spray the RLM74 & RLM75 but I am quite tempted to overspray the RLM76 light blue

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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53586968386_bb4d599a32.jpg

 

Whilst looking at the Tamiya decals for the stencils I realised that the wing Balkenkreuz should have been thinner than the ones I used.

 

So I broke out the RLM 74 & RLM 75 and covered them, RLM 75 first…

53587084121_9ccbca1b8b_c.jpg

 

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…and then RLM 74…

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…then the “thinner” Balkenkreuz Montex masks were applied and MRP-135 insignia white sprayed…

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Next I’ll be applying the stencil decals.

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Wow, terrific fix job on that Balkenkreuz! Really enjoying watching the fine masking and airbrush work you’re doing on this 262. It’s rare when everything goes absolutely perfect on a build, I envy your “recover skills”!

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Those spray-masks look like fun.  I really must have a go at those soon.  Keep up the good work :yes:

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John, I mentioned the leading edge slats when we met. Someones pinched the slats off this one!

The paint looks suitably worn though.

 

45f4943c504439e56af01449bf49eb459a4687a3

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2 hours ago, modelling minion said:

Great attention to details John.👍

thanks

 

if I'd been paying more attention to what I was doing I wouldn't need to make as many corrections 🥴

 

2 hours ago, nearsightedjohn said:

Wow, terrific fix job on that Balkenkreuz! Really enjoying watching the fine masking and airbrush work you’re doing on this 262. It’s rare when everything goes absolutely perfect on a build, I envy your “recover skills”!

 

thanks John

 

I find that I make so many errors I've had to get good at fixing them, I hope that it shows you can recover from most mistakes so you shouldn't become too disheartened 

 

1 hour ago, Mike said:

Those spray-masks look like fun.  I really must have a go at those soon.  Keep up the good work :yes:

 

you should Mike, only problem is that once you start its difficult to go back to "just decals"

 

1 hour ago, Pete in Lincs said:

John, I mentioned the leading edge slats when we met. Someones pinched the slats off this one!

The paint looks suitably worn though.

 

45f4943c504439e56af01449bf49eb459a4687a3

 

thanks Pete

 

she does look scratched, I wonder if that was operationally or from the wrecking crew?

 

34 minutes ago, 81-er said:

That's a nice recovery on the wing crosses, John

 

James

thanks James

 

if I'd not looked at the Tamiya decals, I needed to for the stencils, I wouldn't have know I'd got them wrong, it just goes to show that the masks allow you to make alterations if/when required.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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53587493074_1c5efd10da.jpg

 

There are some decals that can’t(?) be replicated via a mask set because their far too small so, unless HGW do a wet transfer set, you have to use the kit supplied stencils.

53586979271_f773d93872.jpg

 

So the decals were applied with MrMarkSoftner NEO, left for a couple of hours and, on a few, cut panel lines followed by a final hammering with Solvaset.

I left them overnight and gave them a protective coat of AK intermediate gauzy agent.

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Next I’ll be continuing with the weathering.

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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53589350393_f2a05ff7cd.jpg

 

Whilst waiting for the gloss varnish to dry I thought I’d have a look at the landing gear.

 

I’d read somewhere, but can’t find it now!, that the front landing gear cover was made from plywood, so to replicate this I sprayed it with a coat of MRP-259 pale wood and then Usci Van  Der Rosten wood decal applied…

53589662263_640255c8b6_c.jpg

 

…after a layer of hairspray a coat of MrColor C117 RLM76 light blue was sprayed…

53589456236_19eb17b249_c.jpg

 

…and after an hour or so chipped to show the plywood.

53589456226_6f299098f8_c.jpg

 

 

Back to the decals, the main thing that I don’t like about decals is carrier film, you can see here how the light catches its edge…

53591093419_419f530b7f_c.jpg

 

…as I’m going to use oils for weathering, if I leave it “as is” the oils will make it more pronounced, so I used a high grit sanding stick to try and knock it back…

53590981533_63ce616a18_c.jpg

 

…I was a little too enthusiastic with the sanding and burnt though to the primer in a couple of places…

53591230159_3acbff70a2_c.jpg

 

…I used both liquid mask (over the decals) and Tamiya tape (for the camo demarcation) and first sprayed the C037 RLM75…

53590911456_2592cf3ba1_c.jpg

 

…followed by C036 RLM74…

53590146767_3ebcdfc211_c.jpg

 

53591337379_063d07eb2a_c.jpg

 

…I then used W&N Galeria matt to cover the scratches…

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As W&N Galeria is an acrylic varnish it shouldn’t be affected by the oil paints. This is the first time I’ve used Galeria and I must say I’m really impressed, the only thing I’ve had to do is to increase the air pressure to approx. 2 bar, I “normally” spray around 1 bar with a 0.2 needle.

 

 

Next I’ll be continuing with the weathering.

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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I'd say you've done well there, John, you've significantly reduced the visibility of the decal film and patched up nicely. I've used Galeria before, it does thin well with water

 

James

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On 16/03/2024 at 23:42, 81-er said:

I'd say you've done well there, John, you've significantly reduced the visibility of the decal film and patched up nicely. I've used Galeria before, it does thin well with water

 

James

 

On 17/03/2024 at 10:42, modelling minion said:

I think you have done a very good job there John, you can't tell the area you have repaired at all.

thanks chaps

 

I'm still not happy about using decals however the only other choice was to omit the stencils and walkway lines, I could probably live with the walkway (incidentally this had the most carrier film) but I think the voltage? stencils are needed.

I'll see how they behave once the oil weathering goes on

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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53591512464_78534d72cd.jpg

 

The entire airframe was given a coat of the W&N Galeria matt varnish.

53593118869_6fd742332b_c.jpg

 

53593118864_7d4d326e48_c.jpg

 

53593031288_d0788ffdc4_c.jpg

 

53593031283_4fe3515046_c.jpg

 

To start the weathering process I added some (minimal for me!) chipping and scratches with a prismacolor silver pencil.

53595286683_22fe762fc5_c.jpg

 

53595530105_0ccac3647f_c.jpg

 

53594205707_3b02ac2f70_c.jpg

 

 

Next I’ll be adding to the weathering with some oil paints.

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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