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Alpine Renault A442B Turbo {Tamiya 1/24)


Scargsy

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So my shelf of shame is getting a bit busy, a change of job and various other factors seem to have reduced my ability to get things fixed together.

This is my entry (there are more to come for the GB, if I can get the time).

I originally started it in the classic Japanese GB, thread here:

Alpine Renault A442B Turbo - Big In Japan - Classic Japanese Kits GB - Britmodeller.com

 

The kit is a pretty simple affair but seems to have been fighting me all through the build.

 

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The kit supplied decals have seriously yellowed over the years, though are actually usable (if a bit brittle), the aftermarket ones however had their own issues - firstly they didn't supply the larger area ones (for some of the white areas and black ones) and the white decals are somewhat less than opaque - especially on the bright yellow background.

I used the kit decals for the black areas, decided to overpaint the logos (badly) and will attach the decals on top.

The actual areas I masked seemed to come out relatively well (the large white areas at the front and rear) - though it was a bit of a struggle initially getting enough white primer and gloss white on to cover the kit plastic yellow, only to overcoat most of it with yellow!

I should have masked up and airbrushed the black too, and done the smaller areas in white in hindsight.

 

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Here's a shot of the side, showing just how badly my brush painted black bits are on the sills, also the difference in colour between the white areas - the lower left one is just the kit decal (and appears to have a bit of a weird yellow/orange tint) - the other two however, I'd come up with a cunning plan..

As you may have noticed in the previous image there is a small piece of paper at the front. I used my scanner/printer to effectively photocopy the decal sheet - this can then be transferred (using masking tape, which takes up the print) to the backing of some white decal sheet, cut to size (slightly smaller to fit inside the black border) and applied as a second layer of white! The decal film sheet itself isn't completely opaque but together they do a good enough job.

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You can use the inkjet to print directly onto the other side of the decal film (I did try this) however I guess because the film is plastic and non-absorbent the ink never seems to dry and easily smudges - not a problem in my case as I was cutting off the exterior print and not needing an actual pattern. The reverse image method (on the back side) seems better as I don't need to worry about the masking tape ripping the film and it gets discarded when you water slide the backing off - for my needs it's fine as the decals are pretty much mirrored left/right on the car.

 

Other than the white translucency the aftermarket Shunko decals have given me other issues - they supply the black stripes to go around the white areas painted which have been somewhat of a PITA as they are thin and prone to snapping but on the bright side they do distract the eye/cover any minor mistakes on the masking.

 

In hindsight I should have probably just placed all the original Tamiya decals on and then over applied the aftermarket ones for most of the white areas (I did that for the decals on the air scoop and I think it looks fine).

 

There is a reason some kits end up never getting finished but I'm hopeful I can at least get to the point of calling this one done, even if it has tested me along the way!

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  • 1 month later...

So over the Christmas holidays I managed to get the decals on, I did break a few of the fine lines but luckily the Shunko decals include a few spare corners and straights - though it was very tricky to use them for the curve section I'd broken on the front wing, although the curves were quite gentle so in the end I did manage it by breaking the straight extra section into a few smaller sections.

 

With them all in place I decided it would be best to get them sealed in, so I decided to go for a 2k clear coat - for this I used some Ammo Mig Cobra for the first time, I have to say it seemed to go on well (other than the usual dust magnet that clear coats seem to be).

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The 2k is somewhat different to the rest of their range (I'm not sure if they are alcohol based) but I will try them at some point. It did seem to take a little longer than standard 2k to dry off but this might just be a temperature thing given the time of year.

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I finished off the interior/chassis too, I did test the motor which still seems to work, though the batteries do somewhat force out the sides of tub but I'm doubtful I'll be racing it across the floor!

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The wheels I stripped the original chrome off with some thick bleach, it turns out they were made of semi-translucent plastic! With them stripped I applied some Mr Color Ueno gloss black followed by some Xtreme Metal Aluminium. Then clear coated with some Gauzy Agent - that is water based so it turned out to be quite easy to overdo it (with it running) but it seemed to have self levelled OK (I made sure lie them flat so I wouldn't end up with a thick lump on one side of the wheel where it was running). Finally I used some panel liner to fill the parts between the 'spokes'.

 

The driver had some helmet decals on the original Tamiya sheet (though not the replacement ones) I did give them a try but unfortunately they were past using!

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The next job is to try sand the worst of the dust and lumps out of the clear and then I think I'll give it a coat of semi-gloss as it's a bit too shiny for my liking, almost there!

 

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A little bit of weekend work and I can call this one done!

After a coat of semi-gloss (Mr Hobby rattle can), it was a case of just adding a few of the finishing touches.

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The headlights aren't clear parts but chromed, I wanted to keep this but paint the surrounds so added some Krystal Klear over the lenses then stripped the chrome. However one thing I hadn't counted on is that the bleach would react - this ended up making the clear go cloudy, however it was a simple job to wipe it off after I'd washed the bleach off (luckily) so it acted as a sacrificial layer and kept the chrome bright underneath.

 

One annoyance I have is that it wasn't until I'd got to decaling that I realized that in the Le Mans race the front sets of vents were actually covered (I'm not sure what with, but in the photos it looks like the rear portions were secured with duct tape! The actual after market decals do come with something to simulate it, though it would be a bit late to try and fill them!

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The semi-windscreen (if you can call it that with a hole at the front and top) has a slightly opaque section at the top - it's hard from the photos of the real car to work out if it was like this or painted (I think it may have been painted later in its lifetime) but I really wasn't confident enough in my masking skills to attempt it.

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Anyhow it's finished finally, maybe a bit rough around the edges (and the masked parts) but the black lines do help draw the eye away from the worse parts).

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  • 3 weeks later...

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