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Rug Rat 1/72nd HS Andover C.1 Finished at last.


Mr T

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My entry to this GB is the resin Andover C.1 from Rug Rat/Aircraft in Miniature, it appeared in 1999 and has been in my stash from about that date.

The Andover was a transport aircraft designed to operate off poor surfaces and was intended for use in the Middle and Far East. It was a development of the Avro 748 with a longer fuselage with rear loading ramp, more powerful engines and larger propeller. It also had a stronger undercarriage that could 'kneel' to help loading and unloading. The Andover was in competition with a version of HP Herald, that apparently was 'better', but was never going to win as the Government of the day was keen on Handley Page joining one of the big aerospace groups, something that Frederick Handley Page was not going to do. The Andover entered service in 1966, but had a short life in its intended role, only until 1975. Some aircraft were then used by 60 Sqn and some as E.3 by 115 Squadron. Most of the rest went to the RNZAF.

The kit is based around some hefty cream-coloured resin airframe parts backed by some white metal propellers, seats wheels undercarriage etc. Two vacform canopies are provided with a decal sheet and what appears in my case to be half an instruction sheet. One fuselage half is warped and to get everything to fit, I have already cut the tail off. A trial run shows the fuselage more or less goes together, but I suspect will need clamping and epoxy glue to keep things together. The resin is seriously thick and hot water my not work.

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First job will be to clean up the resin castings and cut away the casting blocks. The white metal bits are also going to take some work. I have the OldModels decal sheet from New Zealand that has better definition of some items. Very impressed by the turnround time and postage costs from Jays Models in NZ

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I'm glad mine is not the only one with the warped fuselage. I too will be taking a saw to it. I'm going for the Raspberry Ripple scheme, having the S&M decals.

It's in the queue, but I'm doing a batch build for Telford, so it will be a New Year job. How are your canopies? Mine had yellowed, but have since had the Hydrogen Peroxide treatment.

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Canopies are fine, and I reckon that at this stage they should be OK. I once spoke to John Adams about yellowing, and it seems to be luck and careful temperature control when the stuff is made. Sorry yours are yellowed 

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47 minutes ago, modelling minion said:

What a great subject @Mr T, the Andover is a great looking aircraft and looked really good in the RAF desert scheme.

Very interested to see how this goes together.

 

🇺🇦

Thanks, it is an attractive looking aeroplane that deserved better. Used to be a regular at the Finningley BoB display, they even had the only one in Grey and Green. I have removed the resin from the casting blocks, as I had a bit of spare time this morning. Looking forward to doing this model. 

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10 minutes ago, Mr T said:

Canopies are fine, and I reckon that at this stage they should be OK. I once spoke to John Adams about yellowing, and it seems to be luck and careful temperature control when the stuff is made. Sorry yours are yellowed 

A month in H2O2 solution clears it up. Like crystal now.

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Yes, for Christmas I am getting a book that is basically a photo essay of the BoB shows at Finningley from beginning to end, impulse buy from Flying Legends at Leeds East with a couple of other and handed straight over to Mrs T. That way I can survive Christmas. 

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6 minutes ago, bentwaters81tfw said:

A month in H2O2 solution clears it up. Like crystal now.

Learn something new everyday, what strength of peroxide do you use, I have something to experiment on.

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Thanks, this is the largest resin kit I have built, and so a bit of a challenge. The three main things to remember are that

1) Resin, especial some older ones is not nice and needs to be treated with respect. I cut off the casting blocks outside and still wore a mask capable of keeping fine dust out. Always sand it wet and wash hands and part afterwards. 

2) Resins will not work with ordinary glues. For large parts I use five minute epoxy as it also is a gap filler, it seems to 'grab' better than cyano with large parts. It needs a full day to cure properly. Miliput is a good filler as sticks well to resin. 

3) Resin is heavy, and some kits include ordinary resin parts for the undercarriage. This can deform under the weight of resin. At the very least I drill out the undercarriage legs to take a metal rod, or replace the leg portion with metal or a hard plastic rod.

It took me a few years to have a go with resin kits, but built a few now, the big issue with them is hugely variable quality, from Unicraft to SBS

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11 hours ago, Mr T said:

Thanks, this is the largest resin kit I have built, and so a bit of a challenge. The three main things to remember are that

1) Resin, especial some older ones is not nice and needs to be treated with respect. I cut off the casting blocks outside and still wore a mask capable of keeping fine dust out. Always sand it wet and wash hands and part afterwards. 

2) Resins will not work with ordinary glues. For large parts I use five minute epoxy as it also is a gap filler, it seems to 'grab' better than cyano with large parts. It needs a full day to cure properly. Miliput is a good filler as sticks well go resin. 

3) Resin is heavy, and some kits include ordinary resin parts for the undercarriage. This can deform under the weight of resin. At the very least I drill out the undercarriage legs to take a metal rod, or replace the leg portion with metal or a hard plastic rod.

It took me a few years to have a go with resin kits, but built a few now, the big issue with them is hugely variable quality, from Unicraft to SBS

A nice concise explanation of dealing with resin kits, thanks for sharing that with us.

 

🇺🇦

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The major components have now been cut from their casting blocks. They will need some cleaning up, but it is a start. The surface detail looks quite nice, although it does not show up well on the photos due to the cream resin.

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The OldModel decal sheet is at hand. The decal quality looks much better than the kit decal, and some extra stencilling is supplied. The kit decal includes the de-icer boots and propeller tip warning bands that are still useful.

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From the decals, it looks as if any Andover can be built, which is handy given how rare Medium Sea Grey numbers and letters are.

Progress will be slow on this kit until the Sea Fury and X20 are a bit further on.

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This will be neat. I always had a fondness for the stock 748, I guess because I got to work on a couple at Air Manitoba in '94. Unfortunately never went for a ride, kicking myself now. This to is a good looking plane, look forward to the end result.

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9 hours ago, modelling minion said:

I believe it was an attempt to reduce the heat in the cockpit area, our Hercs had the same thing.

I am pretty sure you are right, the handful of Argosies in camouflage also had the white cockpit area as well as the Beverly. Presumably modern transports have either better air conditioning or the crews sweat more. 

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Waiting for the plumber/heating chap who services our boiler this morning, and as I didn't want to start anything involved like weeding the garden,

I did a bit of work on the Andover.

Specifically on the white metal props, which are a bit bent and have some flash on them. I like to get bits like this done if I have the odd moment, as it then saves time later in the build. Also discovered that the only one of the holes for the main wheel axles are in the middle of the wheel. I am tempted to fill the holes with Miliput and re-drill them. Ir is annoying.

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The cleaned up prop is on the left.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have not deserted the GB, but holidays and working on other models have slowed things somewhat. The Andover is now progressing, the wheels and interior parts have been cleaned up and primed. All the resin parts have freed from their casting blocks and cleaned up. The main real progress is that the fuselage has been stuck together, and the engine fronts have been added.

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The big gap is where I had to cut the fuselage to persuade the vertical tail halves to match. The fuselage half as supplied had an odd warp in two dimensions. The fuselage was tackled at the front with superglue, and then epoxy resin was added to fill gaps and strengthen the joint. A clamp was needed at the rear of the fuselage to align the halves. Once this had set, the detached rear fuselage was added and clamped with a copious amount of epoxy flooding the joint. After the photo was taken, the joints were cleaned up and Miliput will be added where needed. My plan is to make sure the fuselage and engines are all clean up and the canopy added before the wings are joined to the fuselage, The Andover is bigger than I remember, the fuselage is about the same size as that of a Lancaster or B17, rather than the Dakota, which I had assumed.

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Thanks, pale cream resin on a varnished wood table hides a lot! 

Seriously, it fitted about as well as any resin kit of the period does. The nose cap is on as well. It has needed less Miliput than I thought, the nice thing about these older resin kits is they fool you by having relatively few parts to make up the airframe. You then realise how much fettling is required to get a a clean airframe ready to paint. Still, gives a sense of achievement that some other kits lack. 

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