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Iconic Entropy - The Graveyard


Bill1974

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Hiya all

 

As I am waiting for some stuff to arrive I have been fleshing out my next build.

 

I am planning on building a alternative version of a graveyard.  

 

A cold war graveyard that will represent the fallen icons of the Soviet block.

 

I'm planning on a spooky graveyard vibe with these former icons now abandoned (each depicting an element of Soviet communism)  I may either have decrepid gravestones in front or a plaque stating what each is representing.

 

Within it will be abandoned;

 

A concrete statue that is in Czechoslovakia (but slightly smaller in scale) that represents industry.  This will have blown reinforced concrete and rust streaks and birds nests and bird poop.

 

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A UAZ 3909 military van all rusted and dented on bricks representing economics.  

 

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A CCCP lettered sign, stainless steel, ripped from the ground with concrete foundation stumps still attached representing ideology.

 

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A standing Lenin figure now laying on its back that has been ripped out of the ground and dumped. (Not quiet this exact pose, the figure has his hand outstretched, I couldn't find a picture) representing doctrine.

 

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An old wooden privy with a bust of Lenin inside representing dogma and Putin's toxicity with a sign (gas under pressure warning sign?)

 

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An aurosan rf-08 propeller driven snow vehicle all beaten and rusted representing military.

 

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A decorative steel hammer and sickle statue ripped out of the ground with concrete foundation stumps attached representing agricultural.

 

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I have fleshed out a plan.....

 

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Also planning on including these elements...

 

Access doorway idea.

 

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Spooky tree.

 

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Flag stones.

 

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The pigeons.

 

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And finally some lamposts.

 

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Edited by Bill1974
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  • Bill1974 changed the title to Iconic Entropy - The Graveyard

I have made a load of the stone blocks to make the stone arch and wall and some flagstones out of clay and dried them in a moderately hot even last night.

 

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Flags on the left and stones on right.  I'll glue these together with pva. 🤓

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8 hours ago, Bill1974 said:

Hiya all

 

As I am waiting for some stuff to arrive I have been fleshing out my next build.

 

I am planning on building a alternative version of a graveyard.  

 

A cold war graveyard that will represent the fallen icons of the Soviet block.

 

I'm planning on a spooky graveyard vibe with these former icons now abandoned (each depicting an element of Soviet communism)  I may either have decrepid gravestones in front or a plaque stating what each is representing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Great idea mate, have you been watching golden eye again for this inspo lol

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58 minutes ago, Mark Cassidy said:

Great idea mate, have you been watching golden eye again for this inspo lol

 

I think my inspiration is based on a great many bond films, Harry Palmer (Micheal Caine) and Matt helm (Dean Martin) spy movies and general black and white war and 50 s 60's films. I'm also a big fan of film noir, all the dark grimey smokey scenes and intrigue.... Nice!

 

After finding the miniart pigeons and street lamps I also found many great kits for workshop / kitchen and general stuffs like that for bombed out buildings with tanks prodding out my mind is a buzzing.

 

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20 hours ago, Bill1974 said:

 

I think my inspiration is based on a great many bond films, Harry Palmer (Micheal Caine) and Matt helm (Dean Martin) spy movies and general black and white war and 50 s 60's films. I'm also a big fan of film noir, all the dark grimey smokey scenes and intrigue.... Nice!

 

After finding the miniart pigeons and street lamps I also found many great kits for workshop / kitchen and general stuffs like that for bombed out buildings with tanks prodding out my mind is a buzzing.

 

You so need to buy a 3D printer 😆

 

BTW what do you think of the 4th Protocol? 

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42 minutes ago, Mark Cassidy said:

You so need to buy a 3D printer 😆

 

I can recommend the Creality Ender pro they’re fairly inexpensive new. I managed to pick up a pristine second hand one for €100. And what with my Daleks and my Merlin I’ve  probably already broke even vs the kit/aftermarket cost.

 

IMG_0140.jpg

The two printed Daleks for the last blitzbuild. More than fifty parts each so even though I printed them they still need as much work as a kit.

Edited by Marklo
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8 hours ago, Mark Cassidy said:

BTW what do you think of the 4th Protocol?

 

I like a great many of those kinda films by Micheal caine especially his batman Alfred, a bridge too far, Alfie, Italian job, get carter, Zulu, Scrooge, the holcroft covenant, the eagle has landed, and Harry brown is an absolute master piece just like Eastwood's gran Torino... Both these films are quiet easily every other anthology of films added together to equal brown and Torino.  

 

Once a royal marine, always so.

7 hours ago, Marklo said:

can recommend the Creality Ender pro they’re fairly inexpensive new. I managed to pick up a pristine second hand one for €100.

 

I should really but I think I'd stress to much learning how to use it properly, isn't it quiet hard?

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1 hour ago, Bill1974 said:

isn't it quiet hard?

It all depends. To 3D print :-

 

1. You need a model, now you can create this yourself for which you need to use a 3D cad program, which is a huge learning curve if you aren’t familiar with CAD. However there are many sites like Thingiverse and Yeggi where you can find free models and others that sell models. 


2. then you need to process the file so it can be printed, this is called slicing, again a software package that lets you scale and orient the parts then convert them into slices for printing and finally save them in a file format that the printer understands, in the case of my printer it’s G-codes.

 

3. then you transfer the file to your printer, mine runs off an SD card or directly over USB.  You may also need to add supports at this stage so that all the details print. Within reason you can manipulate the model so it doesn’t need support and lots of third party models are designed not to need them.
 

4. Then just select the file and print. Now I have to admit that I’m still at the stage where it takes me a few attempts to get a good print. My main problems have been with the plastic filament snagging causing a failed print. That and having to tweak the printout so that the model is properly supported.

 

5. Finally print the file. For large and or complex prints this can take a long time I recon that my Daleks took twenty plus hours to print.

 

As with most things nowadays there are lots and lots of videos out there on the subject.

 

Finally there are two main types of printer SLA which uses a laser to cure a liquid resin and FDM which melts a plastic filament and lays it down on a bed. SLA gives better results as it can print in finer less visible layers, but FDM is still pretty good too and is probably more widely used than SLA my Ender is FDM and even in my engineering capacity any 3D print I had made was with FDM, however all or the development and design groups I’ve worked with favoured SLA.

 

In a nutshell there is a lot to learn if you’re new to the tech and although it’s developed rapidly in the past few years (I encountered my first SLA printer in 1990) it still can be a bit  involved.

 

Funnily enough it more or less reminds me of how 2D printers were in the nighties.

 

 

Hope that helps.

Edited by Marklo
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On 07/09/2023 at 06:48, Marklo said:

It all depends. To 3D print :-

 

1. You need a model, now you can create this yourself for which you need to use a 3D cad program, which is a huge learning curve if you aren’t familiar with CAD. However there are many sites like Thingiverse and Yeggi where you can find free models and others that sell models. 


2. then you need to process the file so it can be printed, this is called slicing, again a software package that lets you scale and orient the parts then convert them into slices for printing and finally save them in a file format that the printer understands, in the case of my printer it’s G-codes.

 

3. then you transfer the file to your printer, mine runs off an SD card or directly over USB.  You may also need to add supports at this stage so that all the details print. Within reason you can manipulate the model so it doesn’t need support and lots of third party models are designed not to need them.
 

4. Then just select the file and print. Now I have to admit that I’m still at the stage where it takes me a few attempts to get a good print. My main problems have been with the plastic filament snagging causing a failed print. That and having to tweak the printout so that the model is properly supported.

 

5. Finally print the file. For large and or complex prints this can take a long time I recon that my Daleks took twenty plus hours to print.

 

As with most things nowadays there are lots and lots of videos out there on the subject.

 

Finally there are two main types of printer SLA which uses a laser to cure a liquid resin and FDM which melts a plastic filament and lays it down on a bed. SLA gives better results as it can print in finer less visible layers, but FDM is still pretty good too and is probably more widely used than SLA my Ender is FDM and even in my engineering capacity any 3D print I had made was with FDM, however all or the development and design groups I’ve worked with favoured SLA.

 

In a nutshell there is a lot to learn if you’re new to the tech and although it’s developed rapidly in the past few years (I encountered my first SLA printer in 1990) it still can be a bit  involved.

 

Funnily enough it more or less reminds me of how 2D printers were in the nighties.

 

 

Hope that helps.

So I would agree

 

I have a resin printer rather than the filament type. 

 

Is it hard to pick up hmmmmm thats really hard to say mate, I got some really good advice from a mate when I bought mines, and theres a gazillion videos and groups in internet land who will give you loads of help.

 

I use tinkercad a free piece of very basic software online that allows you to design or manipulate models , is it a steep learning curve, it can be, i mean anything is though really, my first print was a cube about 2cmx2cmx2cm.  I was so chuffed with it, I made that little block of plastic. 

 

As Marklo says theres loads of sites with either very cheap or free models if thats easier as well. 

 

Resin printers are the exact same as FLA printers until after the print is completed,  now if you ever get a resin printer then I advise water washable resin , trust me a whole lot easier to deal with, anyways I digress, after printing I wash off the resin in some water, then I stick the model under aUV light for 5 minutes, and volia I have my model.

 

What would you say your tech abilities were?

 

 

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I'm hoping that I can fit this all in on one board this time....

 

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I've been preparing a paper mashe mix of cardboard, wrapping paper that some of the Amazon stuff arrives with to stop stuff bouncing around he box with a load of pva, water and clay that has been posted into a paste

 

I'm hoping this will be more stable than other bases.

 

I've added the first part of the flag paving all cut and angled just before and then square and regular after.

 

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The Arch former so I can add the stones around a solid circle.

 

I've wrapped 0.5mm plasticard around a gravy container hopefully this will resist the stick and with a bit of water the pva will debond leaving the arch in place.

 

Either side of the wall section just either side of the stone Arch I plan on adding some fencing I'm going to make from thin plasticard and thick metal wire.

 

I'm pleased with the start. 🤓

 

Comments and suggestions welcome.

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3 hours ago, Mark Cassidy said:

What would you say your tech abilities were?

My tech savvy is relatively high in terms of using the software, I can draw stuff in full cad (2d) and revit (3d) with my eyes closed, what I don't have is the software or a reliable computer.

 

I think I would struggle with the many settings / temperature and all the other type of screen full of numbers and check boxes I have no idea of what they mean.

 

I have an old laptop and the free software out there by is that enough?

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It's deffo enough to get started mate, there's a section of this.forum on 3d printing and am sure it's a helpful as our wee corner. 

 

If you can use cad then your streets ahead of me mate. 

 

Here's a wee intro video to tinkered of your intrested

 

I use a resin printer so I dont have to worry about temp but i do have to figure out exposure times, tbh theres tools and test prints out there that help you calibrate the printer and once u get it calibrated and proviso your using the same resin then u don't need to change a setting, I haven't in literally months and am still getting decent prints off it. 

 

If your intrested go for it. 

 

 

5 hours ago, Bill1974 said:

My tech savvy is relatively high in terms of using the software, I can draw stuff in full cad (2d) and revit (3d) with my eyes closed, what I don't have is the software or a reliable computer.

 

I think I would struggle with the many settings / temperature and all the other type of screen full of numbers and check boxes I have no idea of what they mean.

 

I have an old laptop and the free software out there by is that enough?

Mate I'll be coming to you to draw me stuff to print at this rate 🤣🤣🤣🤣

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10 hours ago, Mark Cassidy said:

What would you say your tech abilities were?

Ok so I’ve worked in aerospace, microelectronics and medical devices for thirthy years; used to program Motorola 68000 assembly language as a hobby; was briefly developing iPhone apps in C++ and websites too; I can program in Fortran, Basic, C, C++, 6502 assembly and 68000 assembley; oh and I have three patents in the microelectronics field to my name, I even got a nice plaque for one of them.

 

So I suppose on a scale of 1 to 10 where 1 is Luddite and 10 is Tech god I’d give myself a strong 8 :) 

Edited by Marklo
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On 09/09/2023 at 08:18, Mark Cassidy said:
On 09/09/2023 at 02:37, Bill1974 said:

Mate I'll be coming to you to draw me stuff to print at this rate 🤣🤣🤣🤣

 

If I had a computer that was quick enough and some half decent (still in service / supported by Autodesk - maybe only a few years out of date) there is nothing that I couldn't draw as I drawn £15-20 million secondary and sixth form college projects.  My drawing skills are 10/10 I used to be sent on all the courses and would then teach everyone else.

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I have extended the base out as I needed a little more space.

 

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I've also made some of the reinforcement cages that will be exposed and rusty.

 

And the base for the large concrete monument with an area hit by a shell and reinforcement showing and a wire spike to make sure things are strong at the base of the hammer.

 

I plan to use plaster of paris in the recess in the base and the plastic foundation base.  

 

Still not sure how to make the rest ~ make blocks out of cardboard and pop bandages and add plaster faces and build it up that way or cut out cardboard and tape and pva it together and then cover with a layer of plaster route.

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I've been making the anchor for the concrete hammer and stuff stronger.....

 

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I've covered everything in a layer of pva so that things will really grab and hold tight.

 

The two diagonal prongs were from spare bits of wire, so is the circular top and the plasticard stiffeners are all superglued into place.  I've finally got some superglue accelerator and it's great not having to hold things in place all the time.

 

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I've began extending the path into form the hammer head near the concrete statue.

 

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Arch former out of a gravy container with its radius enlarged to the right size with some card and then covered in plasticard so that with a bit of wobbling and water, I should be able to detach the former leaving the arch, hopefully.

 

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Front of the arch.

 

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Close up of stone arch.

 

The liberally applied pva is drying and shrinking, I won't even attempt to move the plasticard former unless it's pretty much bone dry and not gonna fall over or something.

 

There are small areas I still need too fill at the base of the circle.

 

I'll be moving on to making the iron railings, all bent and spooky running off either side.

 

Comments and suggestions welcome 🤓

Edited by Bill1974
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I have begun making the large statue...

 

I had already scaled down the model as it was too large and over 450mm in height at scale as taken from photos and assumptions from people standing near it.

 

I have also reduced the cardboard sizes in depth and elevation by 10mm overall so that when I add the plaster faces it will be the size required. 5mm of plaster to each face.

 

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This is the head of the hammer prior to bending and glueing together.

 

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This is the hammer handle that I didn't take a photo of when it was one piece of cardboard.

 

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The sickle with flap supports that will be glued together with the other side.

 

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The star, remarkably hard to make by hand, this is the second attempt as the first was sketchy and unequal.

 

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The hammer.

 

Comments and suggestions welcome 🤓

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I've been adding layers of plaster over the hammer, sickle and star over the last couple of days.

 

The star is a right off and has been binned.

 

The hammer and sickle are coming along nicely.  And have had a few coats of plaster and then in the oven to dry and set. Then sand and repeat. They are almost there ready to cut open and add reinforcement and blown concrete.

 

I have made a new star out of plasticard and this is way better than the previous version and is drying and curing after glueing together and adding some tamiya filler to cover a few gaps and such.

 

I'll post photos tomorrow after they have cooled and have sat overnight.

 

This is the base with a few separate batches of plaster added over the dried paper mashe.  It's looking good but will need some sanding to flatten it all out and a few areas require more plaster due to the plaster not setting right (there is only so far adding a little water before it has set even though it's pourable). 

 

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I'm not sure how to finish the edges, I don't think plaster will be a good way to square this off and I may add clay and pva to the edges and seal with painted on pva.

 

Comments and suggestions welcome 🤓

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I believe that the hammer and sickle are just about finished for this stage.

 

The star needs to be sanded and both hammer and sickle now need to be cracked and splintered with reinforcement showing. And at some point when I'm happy with the blown concrete I'll cut the casting lines and then cover them with ak concrete texture.

 

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I have a question as I am unsure of how to proceed -

 

What is best to portray steel reinforcement?

 

Standard Metal Wire

 

Or

 

Metal Model Barbed Wire

 

 

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I'm stuck between two choices and each time out think I've come to a conclusion, the option I wasn't going to choose goes 'woohoo' and I'm back to undecided again.

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