Tamiya F4U-1D Corsair Build Project

[RaisingArizona]

I wish to thank everyone who provided comments and feedback on my prior builds.  I am newly restarting this hobby and your input has been very helpful.

 

I started a new build a few days ago ... the Tamiya 1/48 F4U-1D Corsair.

 

I have always like the Corsair.  Very cool looking plane.  

 

You can see in the photo that things are early in the build.  The cockpit is done and assembled the fuselage.  Things going pretty good.  The kit is by Tamiya and the details and fit is first class.  Very little filling is going to be required.  I did have a bit of trouble getting the cockpit details to fit properly when assembling the fuselage, but a little persuasion and it all snapped into place.  Had to hurry up and apply some cement after that as I was unsure if I could repeat that.  

 

Got my pilot figure painted.  Did better job on him than my Mosquito crew.  This pilot does not sit in the seat, though.  He will be posed on the wing for a photo shoot.

 

I decided to assemble the kit with the wings in the extended position.  During test fitting, things are bit fiddly and going to have to create or obtain a jig to hold things together for assembly and cementing.

 

I ordered some paint online today.  Don't know exactly what color blue I will end up painting this beast.  Most late war period planes depict the color as a dark shade of blue painted glossy or semi-gloss.  But I have come across a couple of photos of the bubble top version Corsair (the -1D) painted in two-tone blue.  A bit subdued blue upper color and light grey under side.  I like the idea of some extra color so am leaning toward that color scheme.  

 

As I continue down this path, would love to hear from folks who might be able to provide some tips for me.  

 

Thanks all ... 

 

Steve 

[RaisingArizona]

Got some new decals on order.  In looking at the Tamiya decals and seeing some images online, I believe the Tamiya decals are much thicker than other options and they seem to show ridge lines that no amount of decal setting solution will ameliorate.  Ordered a decal set from Eagle Decals.  Should be here in a few days.  

 

Also have a masking set coming in for the canopy.  I have had poor results trying to create my own masks and good results using commercially available masking kits.  We'll see how that goes.

 

I am planning on assembling the wings to the wing roots soon.  I have all the subassemblies finished and just want to get the model prepared to put on the first primer coat.  Planning on using Vallejo grey primer which I have had very good results in the past.  The technique I use is to apply a very thin first coat to expose areas that need a bit of attention.  Then address any issues and then apply a slightly thicker second primer coat to prepare for final color coat.  

 

I painted the propeller and it turned out not as I would have liked.  After putting on the prop decals, I used a brush to apply a satin varnish.  Left brush marks and not happy.  Might just strip it down and do it again.  If I do, I will not use a brush to put on the satin varnish.

 

Steve

Edited April 20, 2023 by RaisingArizona

[RaisingArizona]

Been away for a bit.  But going to restart now.  

 

I received my model building jig by LMG.  I saw that this is from Ukraine and thought to myself ... hell yes!

 

The jig is made of laser cut plywood.  Bits and pieces go together nicely.  I lightly sanded all the wooden bits and applied a coat of lacquer wood finish from a spray can.  Much better than uncoated plywood.  You can adjust the jig in every possible way imaginable and it secures very easily.  Using this jig is definitely an improvement in what I was using previously ... bits of foam packing material.  

 

My only improvement I need to make is that when you tighten the wing nuts to secure the jig, the machine screw head spins.  The machine screws have a truss head which is fairly broad to spread the load on the wooden substrate (a good idea).  One has to use a screwdriver to hold the screw head while tightening the wing nut.  I tried putting a star washer under the screw head, but that does not work very well as the star washer doesn't get a good bite on the screw head.  Thinking of applying a small drop of PVA glue to the screw head to secure it to the wood so that when tightening the wing nut the screw head doesn't spin.  Another thought is to use a bit of double-sided adhesive tape under the screw head.  Just don't want to compromise the ability to remove the screw should I need to.  I think the adhesive tape would allow me to remove the screw should the need arise and I can always remove the adhesive if I have to.  I think easier than PVA glue.

 

 

 

[RaisingArizona]

Put a coat of grey Vallejo primer on this morning.  A few spots needed some attention and got that done.

 

Initially I was going to put on the auxiliary drop tanks, but decided not as the landing gear doors were cemented in place and they interfere a bit with the drop tanks.  Took the drop tank pylons and shaped them with aerodynamic fairings.

 

I really am liking this assembly jig.

 

 

 

Next step ... planning on painting the underside of the airplane light grey.  Am planning on painting the upper side mid blue.  I want to achieve this look ... 

 

 

or possibly like this ... 

 

 

[Dana Bell]

A few quick notes on the color schemes - the aircraft #5 photo is colorized, though not unreasonably, while the NASM scheme (#56) appears to have white on the fuselage sides, better photos show that the color is actually the correct Intermediate Blue.  The underside of the fuselage and wing center section is white, not Light Gray, and the underside of the outer panels will be Intermediate Blue.  To break up the hard line between the center and outer wing panels, a thin overspray of Intermediate Blue carried over onto the center panel.  That scheme was applied to the first (approximately) 300 -1Ds, with all subsequent production in overall Glossy Sea Blue.

 

Looks like you're off to a great start on the kit - I look forward to your continued progress!

 

Cheers,

 

 

Dana

[rob Lyttle]

Supposed to be an excellent kit,by all accounts. And that adjustable stand looks very useful - the tape plan sounds good to me.

Those coral island airstrips were a harsh environment. If you are going for this kind, don't be shy about weathering! 

Looking at the first (colourised) picture above, check out the prop blades.... All the weathering is on the back faces of the blades. Basically stripped to bare metal by "coral blasting".

[rob Lyttle]

Also, decide early about the mast on the front. These were deleted at some stage as better radio installations came on line.

Looks like you have a slot on the fuselage front for the mast. Get it filled if it's not required before you paint. Wanna know how I know this....??🤭

[RaisingArizona]

Base colors are done.  Went with my go to paint ... Vallejo Model Air.  

 

 

Going to work on getting the canopy masked off and painted and gloss coat the model in prep for decals.

 

 

[mark.au]

Very nice looking paint work there.

[RaisingArizona]

Well I just finished up putting on a gloss coat.  Decided to try airbrushing Liquitex gloss varnish thinned with their air brush thinner.  Didn't come out well.  Going to use a very fine grit sanding sponge to see if I can save it.  I may have ruined this model.  Damn.

 

 

Edited April 29, 2023 by RaisingArizona

[RaisingArizona]

47 minutes ago, RaisingArizona said:

Well I just finished up putting on a gloss coat.  Decided to try airbrushing Liquitex gloss varnish thinned with their air brush thinner.  Didn't come out well.  Going to use a very fine grit sanding sponge to see if I can save it.  I may have ruined this model.  Damn.

 

 

Damn.  The entire paint job is blistered.  I have had good success with Liquitex gloss varnish before, but I brushed it on.  I wanted to try airbrushing it on this time.  Liquitex warns not to thin with water.  When I enquired, they said thin with their airbrush medium ... which I did.  But it caused the under color coat to blister.  It is a wreck.  This build is done.  It will take too much work to strip the paint.  I think I will just purchase another kit and start over.

 

 

Edited April 30, 2023 by RaisingArizona

[marvinneko]

@RaisingArizona I suspect isopropyl alcohol would clean off the model. I've used it to clean off Vallejo air easily. 

 

@Brigbeale would know probably as he does amazing restorations of fully built models. He might take the kit off your hands if you give up on it.

Edited April 30, 2023 by marvinneko

[RaisingArizona]

1 hour ago, marvinneko said:

@RaisingArizona I suspect isopropyl alcohol would clean off the model. I've used it to clean off Vallejo air easily. 

 

@Brigbeale would know probably as he does amazing restorations of fully built models. He might take the kit off your hands if you give up on it.

I’ll try some IPA and see how it works.  Thx 

[Brigbeale]

Thanks @marvinneko for the mention.

 

For your laser cut stand, you could try supergluing the screws into position and when your sure the glue is fully dry, reassemble the stand - so you don’t inadvertently glue the stand parts together.

Another option is something like this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Knurled-Threaded-Embedment/dp/B07LBR4792

 

For the paint, hmmm.

You could, as you suggest use fine sanding to take the surface back, but if there’s raised detail on the wing then it will disappear as it’s sanded. 
Two other options are available if the paints are acrylic.

The first is to use airbrush cleaner to see if it can dissolve the paint - using cotton buds.

The second is to use Mr Color Paint Remover, again, with cotton buds (there’s a couple of videos on YouTube).

But try a patch test first or spray the same products on a waste part and try the paint removal on them before attempting the wing.

It may even take a mix of sanding and airbrush thinner or MC Paint Remover.

Edited April 30, 2023 by Brigbeale

[Model Mate]

Asoka in oven cleaner or dettol are the old school solutions to paint stripping, and work well, although I’m not sure if they have any effect on more recent acrylics….

“A soak…”

[RaisingArizona]

I am finding that using IPA and cotton swabs (lots of them) and a soft cloth I am able to slowly remove the clear gloss varnish and the blistered paint.  

 

 

My dilemma is do I want to spend hours doing this ... and it would take easily a couple of days if not more ... to remove all the blistered paint or do I just get a new kit and start again.  Oh my.  Decisions.  Decisions. 

 

Favoring the new kit ... I can correct a couple of things that went wrong in this build and get the painting spot on the second time.  Favoring the stripping of the paint method ... might save a a bit of time and then don't have to purchase a new kit. 

 

I am leaning toward a new kit and chalking up this disaster as a learning experience.

[marvinneko]

Soaking vs scrubbing is an option. I used IPA generously. Let it soak a bit. Then rubbed with a cloth under a tap of dribbling water. It's like washing dishes. I soak first then stuff comes off easily. My mom used to attack dishes and grind away at them.

 

Starting over is always an option but also risks perfectionism. Working through an issue can be satisfying in the long run. Because every restart has another problem anyway.

[RaisingArizona]

12 minutes ago, marvinneko said:

Soaking vs scrubbing is an option. I used IPA generously. Let it soak a bit. Then rubbed with a cloth under a tap of dribbling water. It's like washing dishes. I soak first then stuff comes off easily. My mom used to attack dishes and grind away at them.

 

Starting over is always an option but also risks perfectionism. Working through an issue can be satisfying in the long run. Because every restart has another problem anyway.

I will try to soak it and see how that goes.  

[RaisingArizona]

1 hour ago, marvinneko said:

Soaking vs scrubbing is an option. I used IPA generously. Let it soak a bit. Then rubbed with a cloth under a tap of dribbling water. It's like washing dishes. I soak first then stuff comes off easily. My mom used to attack dishes and grind away at them.

 

Starting over is always an option but also risks perfectionism. Working through an issue can be satisfying in the long run. Because every restart has another problem anyway.

I got an aluminum baking pan and laid Kleenex over the painted surfaces and doused with IPA. Covered it all up with plastic wrap to reduce the loss due to evaporation.  Going to leave it for 45 to 60 minutes and check on progress.  
 

if this is not successful, as IPA is flammable, I might put a match to it.  
 

Edited April 30, 2023 by RaisingArizona

[RaisingArizona]

1 hour ago, marvinneko said:

Soaking vs scrubbing is an option. I used IPA generously. Let it soak a bit. Then rubbed with a cloth under a tap of dribbling water. It's like washing dishes. I soak first then stuff comes off easily. My mom used to attack dishes and grind away at them.

 

Starting over is always an option but also risks perfectionism. Working through an issue can be satisfying in the long run. Because every restart has another problem anyway.

Quick update.  Left it to soak in IPA for 45 minutes and then gently brushing under running water is working.  Have to leave it for a while longer and then try again.  I might be able to save this wreck with your suggestion.  

[RaisingArizona]

4 hours ago, marvinneko said:

Soaking vs scrubbing is an option. I used IPA generously. Let it soak a bit. Then rubbed with a cloth under a tap of dribbling water. It's like washing dishes. I soak first then stuff comes off easily. My mom used to attack dishes and grind away at them.

 

Starting over is always an option but also risks perfectionism. Working through an issue can be satisfying in the long run. Because every restart has another problem anyway.

Well, after a good soaking in IPA and a bit of washing with a soft cloth under running water, most of the blistered paint is off.  Have to let this bad boy dry for a couple of days and then reexamine everything to see if it needs a bit more sanding.  

 

 

 

[RaisingArizona]

Just finished putting a new primer coat on.  Maybe ... just maybe ... this build might be saved.  Certainly quite the difference from the prior photo.

 

I broke off the small radio ariel on the vertical stabilizer, but that is easily remedied.

 

Edited May 1, 2023 by RaisingArizona

[RaisingArizona]

Much better this time through.  Stripped off the blistering paint using IPA, sanded a few spots.  Applied fresh coat of primer, a bit more sanding.  Repainted everything and then applied coat of Vallejo gloss varnish ... no issues this time.

 

Going to let this dry for a while and then apply decals.

 

[RaisingArizona]

Pretty much finished this build.  I was able to save the disaster from earlier ... there are a few flaws but not terribly noticeable.

 

I haven't tried to do any weathering.  Might just leave it as it as.  I used EZ Line rigging and it is not to scale.  I might remove that rigging an put on rigging that is closer to scale.  

 

 

 

[Thom216]

You pulled it right out of that dive. She looks lovely.