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1/350 IJN Fuso. Fujimi


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1 hour ago, Tegethoff said:

Part of the "Premium" kit is a lot of flags which need to be put somewhere! 

I've only attempted flags once.....it didn't go well, I'll be watching closely when you get to yours, 

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12 hours ago, S-boat 55 said:

I've only attempted flags once.....it didn't go well, I'll be watching closely when you get to yours, 

I guess I've already sacrificed my first borns so second borns here we go... 😬 Could be an expensive kit all in at this rate. 

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Looking very nice Tegethoff!

 

Here's some ideas for signal flags;

 

According to the Rainbow ship flag decal set, Fuso's signal name is Juliet Golf Alpha Alpha, from top to bottom.

 

According to the Rainbow IJN signal flag formation decal set, there are all of these signals:

 

IMG_20230801_113659436

 

IMG_20230801_113705368

 

You will need to use the BNA model world link above to cross-reference the "prat" no. I've shown with the actual flags to use.

 

Where rainbow got this information, I don't know, most likely through sources which have never been translated into english.

 

There is this website, which shows various command flags.

 

On the Wikipedia page for IJN signal flags, if you scroll down to the very bottom there is a PDF you can click on which provides a LOT of information, I don't understand any of it though....

 

Re; actually using the flags on the halyards, I think Fujimi kits include a sticker sheet with 2 or 3 copies of all flags, I would either just fold them over and stick them on with CA glue or if you're feeling really brave, you can fold them over ON the signal lines, but my hands are far too shaky for that.

 

If you're going to use decals for the flags, then one way I've seen is to use the decals as normal, (soaking them in water etc) and then gluing them onto some tin foil with a glue stick and folding it over.

 

Hope that helps,

 

James.

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11 hours ago, Jagdtiger1 said:

Looking very nice Tegethoff!

 

On the Wikipedia page for IJN signal flags, if you scroll down to the very bottom there is a PDF you can click on which provides a LOT of information, I don't understand any of it though....

 

Re; actually using the flags on the halyards, I think Fujimi kits include a sticker sheet with 2 or 3 copies of all flags, I would either just fold them over and stick them on with CA glue or if you're feeling really brave, you can fold them over ON the signal lines, but my hands are far too shaky for that.

 

If you're going to use decals for the flags, then one way I've seen is to use the decals as normal, (soaking them in water etc) and then gluing them onto some tin foil with a glue stick and folding it over.

 

Hope that helps,

 

James.

Thanks very much for the mountain of info and the compliments - and ideas about what to do. I think I mainly have stickers not decals but haven't looked too closely. 

 

1 hour ago, Zoran Srb said:

If you want to put as signal, a name of the ship....

 

Thats really helpful thank you - I might also need to add "HELP!" on another of the wires. for my sanity if nothing else!

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P.S. If you have decals and not stickers, you might consider what I do.... If you follow instructions you are supposed to bend them and just put them like that on the line... DONT!!! As soon as they dry out, they become EXTREMELLY brittle, you can literally blow them away. So, I use thinnest  (I think 80 grams) printer paper, soak part of it with diluted white glue, put decal, wrap it around paper, apply more diluted white glue over decal, wait a while, bend them if you wish, let it dry completely, then trim excess paper. That works on flags too...

Drawing1-Model.jpg

 

Of course, for God's sake, try it first on extra decals....

 

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6 hours ago, Zoran Srb said:

I use thinnest  (I think 80 grams) printer paper, soak part of it with diluted white glue, put decal, wrap it around paper, apply more diluted white glue over decal, wait a while, bend them if you wish, let it dry completely, then trim excess paper. That works on flags too...

Drawing1-Model.jpg

 

Of course, for God's sake, try it first on extra decals....

 

Not a ship modeller (any more) but I wonder if cigarette papers might work.  Maybe worth an experiment?  And no great outlay if they don’t work.

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A few update photos for those following. Even though I am not weathering it (it feels too nice a model to weather as my first attempt - I might try on a destroyer or something first), there are so many small things which take some time to do:

From near the stern looking towards the bow, painting life rings, next to install 4 PE steps and extensions, and put in the casement (?) guns

 

PXL_20230807_162943080

 

 

More amid-ships a PE enhanced tender, with some very fragile PE still to come. So much of PE model making seems to be trying to work out what is a chicken and what is an egg type of situation for painting/installation. I need to do the search lights for the funnel area, they are painted grey at the moment but will paint the interior silver before installing the translucent plastic cover to make it look more like a head light. Some images suggest that the outside of the search lights was a different colour to the hull, but I think they will be H83. Side note it seems Mr Hobby has changed the formulation of H83 recently which is sad. 

 

PXL_20230808_183525033

 

On the Bow getting closer to structural completion. Have started to install the AA guns, painted the casement guns and their blast bags, about to paint the turret blast bags and then install the smaller guns onto and start rigging the front, then finally the decking. Probably still 3 months work left knowing my rate of work.  

 

PXL_20230808_180156726~2

 

 

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5 hours ago, Tegethoff said:

the casement (?) guns

Gidday, yes the secondary gun emplacements are called casemates in this situation. I think they were15-cm guns.

Your model continues to look very good. I've never done weathering (or PE) so I can't speak from experience, but I think you could be wise not trying it out for the first time on such an exquisite model as this. If I ever do I'd try it on something simpler. Your decision, of course.

Regards, Jeff.

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Dear colleagues, allow me a two cents about the flags.
First way. If there is a decal.
Make a flag out of thick foil, rumple it as it should, then flatten the decal. Of course, you will need special liquids to soften the decal, or, in the absence of them, just vodka.
The second way, if there is no decal.
You need to print the flags on photo paper. Not paper for inkjet printers, namely photographic paper on which photo labs print. Cut out a small piece and soak in water for about an hour. After that, very carefully, we begin to scrape off the paper from the back. A dull scalpel is suitable for this. When the desired thickness is reached, the halves of the flag are glued by the PVA. The dried flag retains some flexibility.
Hope that helps

Edited by thekz
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Thanks Kz - That is very helpful. I'm not quite there yet in the construction but will try and practice. 

Does anyone have any advice on rigging? I haven't tried connecting rigging lines together, just to metal/plastic.  Anatomy of the Ship has a diagram like this: But I've seen others with more angled rigging midway through. I'll probably use Ez-line  unless others have better ideas!

7vu6bn.jpg

 

 

 

 

 


Slight update painted the blast bags. I thought pure white H1 or H11 (as recommended by Fujimi) would be too white, so went for H21 off-white on the turret blast bags, and H21 with H316 onto for the Casemates. I'm torn between which looks better. For this I think I will keep moving gun angles, even if it looks a little worse, until I've decided if I will put it on display or not. 
 

2023-08-15_04-59-26

 

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When I rigged my Dunkerque I just tied the joints where extra lines joined the main rigging line, then used the tiniest of all bits of CA so as the knot wouldn't loosen, then trimmed, there is likely better ways to do it but that's my two cents 

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Why were aeroplanes, and perhaps more importantly anti aeroplane weaponry created? I mean what kind of mind comes up with the need to fly through the air and incapacitate heavily armoured vessels? Then who on earth decides the way to counter this is 42 single man 25mm guns? If I could learn Japanese and go through the archives, I would write a slightly negative google review about all those who came up with this concept, from the Wright brothers onwards.  

Anyway slight rant out of the way. The 42 single 25mm guns are being assembled, 16 double 25mm and 8 (not as the booklet says) triple 25mm are being made. The single have 2 incredibly small parts (I'm not putting the PE on as it looks oversized) and a PE base, the double has 4 plastic and 3 PE, and the triple 4 plastic and 3 PE each. Need to make two more triple 25's (8 in total not 6).

Painted the inside of the search lights silver to try and make them look more like a searchlight. The rear stairs have been created and installed. Nearly there even if my sanity isn't. 

 

 

 

2023-08-17_08-09-59


 

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33 minutes ago, Tegethoff said:

Why were aeroplanes, and perhaps more importantly anti aeroplane weaponry created? I mean what kind of mind comes up with the need to fly through the air and incapacitate heavily armoured vessels? Then who on earth decides the way to counter this is 42 single man 25mm guns? If I could learn Japanese and go through the archives, I would write a slightly negative google review about all those who came up with this concept, from the Wright brothers onwards.  

Anyway slight rant out of the way. The 42 single 25mm guns are being assembled, 16 double 25mm and 8 (not as the booklet says) triple 25mm are being made. The single have 2 incredibly small parts (I'm not putting the PE on as it looks oversized) and a PE base, the double has 4 plastic and 3 PE, and the triple 4 plastic and 3 PE each. Need to make two more triple 25's (8 in total not 6).

Painted the inside of the search lights silver to try and make them look more like a searchlight. The rear stairs have been created and installed. Nearly there even if my sanity isn't. 

 

 

 

2023-08-17_08-09-59


 

I feel your pain re AA guns, they take an absolute age, with future builds I'm going to try to do them in smaller batches as they can be a mojo sucker, they'll be worth it on the end though, looking forward to seeing them all in place

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17 minutes ago, S-boat 55 said:

I feel your pain re AA guns, they take an absolute age, with future builds I'm going to try to do them in smaller batches as they can be a mojo sucker, they'll be worth it on the end though, looking forward to seeing them all in place

Thanks, it's starting to look quite special. It's been a lot of work to get here but nearly there. Just don't want to rush the last 20 25mm guns it.

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50 minutes ago, Tegethoff said:

 and the triple 4 plastic and 3 PE each.
 

And that is why I went for 3D printed guns! Weirdly, I found Fujimi's 1/700 triple type 96s easier to put together and just as detailed as their 350th ones...

 

Interesting fact; the triple type 96 was actually the first variant used, and the single variant, basically a gun on top of a stick was the last issued, in, I believe 1943!

 

It would be interesting to see why the IJN switched from the 40mm pom pom which the RN used in their thousands to the Type 96...

 

Do you find that the PE stairs fit? Before packing my Shokaku away for a break I found that the holes in the decks were far too small to get most PE stairs in.

 

James.

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12 minutes ago, Jagdtiger1 said:

And that is why I went for 3D printed guns! Weirdly, I found Fujimi's 1/700 triple type 96s easier to put together and just as detailed as their 350th ones...

 

Interesting fact; the triple type 96 was actually the first variant used, and the single variant, basically a gun on top of a stick was the last issued, in, I believe 1943!

 

It would be interesting to see why the IJN switched from the 40mm pom pom which the RN used in their thousands to the Type 96...

 

Do you find that the PE stairs fit? Before packing my Shokaku away for a break I found that the holes in the decks were far too small to get most PE stairs in.

 

James.

the triples look pretty detailed, its the singles which are really causing some strong opinions, not entirely of a positive nature. You have to force the gun barrel into a Y shaped holder while not bending the gun barrel and not overly stressing the holder.

The PE stairs on the super-structure fit, the PE stairs on the rear fit just over where the whole is so anyone who missteps is likely taking a quick trip to the medical room (if sitting on a 356mm gun as it goes off wouldn't already..). 

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6 hours ago, Tegethoff said:

Why were aeroplanes, and perhaps more importantly anti aeroplane weaponry created?

       Gidday, I think it was to give anti-aircraft ships their employment, their reason for being. 😁 But yeah, it makes more work for us modelers. They do however make a model look more detailed and busy. And your model here looks superb.       Regards, Jeff.

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On 17/08/2023 at 22:49, Jagdtiger1 said:

And that is why I went for 3D printed guns! Weirdly, I found Fujimi's 1/700 triple type 96s easier to put together and just as detailed as their 350th ones...

 

Interesting fact; the triple type 96 was actually the first variant used, and the single variant, basically a gun on top of a stick was the last issued, in, I believe 1943!

 

It would be interesting to see why the IJN switched from the 40mm pom pom which the RN used in their thousands to the Type 96...

 

Do you find that the PE stairs fit? Before packing my Shokaku away for a break I found that the holes in the decks were far too small to get most PE stairs in.

 

James.

3D printed guns may be the way forward in future, or sticking to pre-WW2 vessels....

Here is a photo of the fit FYI.

PXL_20230818_163414396

 

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47 minutes ago, S-boat 55 said:

Your build is so neat and precise, very very impressed everytime I see it 

If you build a kit small enough that the phone camera can't properly focus it looks a lot better in the resulting images! But thank you! 

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On 15/08/2023 at 18:30, Tegethoff said:

Thanks Kz - That is very helpful. I'm not quite there yet in the construction but will try and practice. 

Does anyone have any advice on rigging? I haven't tried connecting rigging lines together, just to metal/plastic.  Anatomy of the Ship has a diagram like this: But I've seen others with more angled rigging midway through. I'll probably use Ez-line  unless others have better ideas!

 

Going nicely... As far as rigging goes, I found Uschi van der Rosten (or Ammo-mig) lycra tread most forgiving... It can stretch almost three times (so for main lines you can make them tight, so when you add secondary lines, they don't sag), CA fixes them almost instantly, easy to cut, trim, different diameters... I'm sold...

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Rejoice! The single barrelled AA-guns are done. Now with the exception of railings, two triple barrelled AA guns, the aircraft and 4 translucent beacons, the ship is now structurally complete.
Will do rigging (thanks Zoran for the Uschi van Der Rosten recommendation), the beacons, then railings, paint touch up and then add last triple AA gun when they are painted. Finally the flags which I'm starting to experiment on. 

 

PXL_20230826_155010624~2

 

PXL_20230826_155015885~2

 

PXL_20230826_155040265~2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Tegethoff
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When it's finished a replica that would be at home in museum.

 

28 minutes ago, Tegethoff said:

Now with the exception of railings, two triple barrelled AA guns, the aircraft and 4 translucent beacons, the ship is now structurally complete.

 

I find that following builds like this are like reading a good book - you're little bit disappointed when it's finished (hope that makes sense). 

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