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1/350 IJN Fuso. Fujimi


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Last of the visually-impossible-to-spot-but-numerically-vast-number-of-piece-additions updates for a while.
77 pieces added mostly air vents (numerous sizes), hubs for anchor chains, small and medium ammunition boxes.
Next to do, add the propellors, glue the super structure (the pressure has broadly straightened out the bent wing), build the smaller calibre guns, mount the main guns and then  there should be something resembling a ship. 

So far really really enjoying the construction of this. Only slight downside is how over engineered the sprue attachment points are for tiny pieces. 

 


 

PXL_20230708_165046906~2

 

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So quick request for some advice:

 

1) How do people do rigging/wiring from the tiny "wings" to the super structure? make a bit of super glue and attach everything to it?

2) For the turret gun covers, painting them white will probably look to clean, how should I think about aging them. I guess keeping them loose to move the elevation will have some advantages but not look as neat as gluing(?) them
 

Any thoughts very much appreciated. 

 

 

PXL_20230711_183311448

 

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Presuming you mean the rigging for the signal flags, I use Infini model elastic rigging line, alternatively, uschi van der rosten does the same stuff. Just make sure you don't buy the overpriced ammo of mig repackaging of the uschi line or you'll just get ripped off!

 

For painting the blast bags, I'd use white with either some grey or "buff" mixed in and then tone it down with a black wash over them.

 

Hope that helps,

 

James.

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17 hours ago, Jagdtiger1 said:

Presuming you mean the rigging for the signal flags, I use Infini model elastic rigging line, alternatively, uschi van der rosten does the same stuff. Just make sure you don't buy the overpriced ammo of mig repackaging of the uschi line or you'll just get ripped off!

 

For painting the blast bags, I'd use white with either some grey or "buff" mixed in and then tone it down with a black wash over them.

 

I think I'm going to use off white for the blast bag.

 

For the rigging, do you drill a small hole in the super structure to attach multiple threads to? As shown here courtesy of Mr Google.:

stefan-draminski-240.jpg?1674770341

 


 

 

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Does the kit not come with some PE for the signal deck? I would've thought it would, but my opinion on Fujimi PE isn't that good so I'm not surprised...

 

If there is nothing specific for the halyard lines to attach to, then I'd just glue the bottom to somewhere hard to see on the signal deck, OR, next to the signal flag lockers. Again, only if the kit has any.

 

Forgot to mention last night, but thin super glue and some CA accelerator will work for me.

 

I brush the part of the kit which will be attached to the rigging with the accelerator and dip the tip of the rigging in a blob of glue then bring them together whilst trying to keep shaky hands to a minimum!

 

I'm sure others which pitch in with how they do it,

 

James.

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I've got some rigging eyelets that I stick on the deck/in a corner, I then tie the line off and run it up and down to where it's going however many times needed then tie it off when done, then a touch of CA on the eyelet just incase it comes loose, at least that's hot I did it on Taiho, 

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20 hours ago, S-boat 55 said:

Looks about right, I got some from L'arsenal which are probably slightly bigger but hard to tell from a photo really

Thanks for the recommendation, a set is now on its way.

What do you use for splits etc in the rigging and wiring? Or are there videos anyone would recommend? 

Thanks again for all the advice and help.

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I can't really comment on that type of rigging with lines coming down from other lines, but the only thing I can think of is to apply the bare minimum of tension on the line, assuming you are going to use elastic thread. I plan on doing a fair bit of experimenting on my Shokaku, so come back in a year or two for an answer! :D

 

A Japanese youtuber I follow is releasing this video tomorrow, could be worth a watch?

 

 

Hope that helps,

 

James.

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2 hours ago, Jagdtiger1 said:

I can't really comment on that type of rigging with lines coming down from other lines, but the only thing I can think of is to apply the bare minimum of tension on the line, assuming you are going to use elastic thread. I plan on doing a fair bit of experimenting on my Shokaku, so come back in a year or two for an answer! :D

 

A Japanese youtuber I follow is releasing this video tomorrow, could be worth a watch?

 

Hope that helps,

 

James.

Talk about just in time....

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On 11/07/2023 at 21:27, Tegethoff said:

So quick request for some advice:

 

1) How do people do rigging/wiring from the tiny "wings" to the super structure? make a bit of super glue and attach everything to it?

2) For the turret gun covers, painting them white will probably look to clean, how should I think about aging them. I guess keeping them loose to move the elevation will have some advantages but not look as neat as gluing(?) them
 

1)  I just put a tiny drop of superglue (works with lycra tread). For signal lines (multiple lines) I take a thin strip of plastic, glue lines one by one (wait while the previous line is dry), paint plastic and then, glue it inside of superstructure "fence" (sorry I don't know the correct term) where it won't be obviously visible, and stretch one by one to the yardarm.

2) I never use pure white on models, it looks too bright for me... On darker models I use Humbrol 147 (close to FS36495), on light models, I just add a small amount of gray to white. As far as moving barrels are concerned, they will never look as good as fixed ones, blended with a turret. Also, they are blast BAGS, so with the change in elevation, their shape changes...

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3 minutes ago, Zoran Srb said:

I just put a tiny drop of superglue (works with lycra tread). For signal lines (multiple lines) I take a thin strip of plastic, glue lines one by one (wait while the previous line is dry), paint plastic and then, glue it inside of superstructure "fence" (sorry I don't know the correct term) where it won't be obviously visible, and stretch one by one to the yardarm.

 

Genius.

 

Efficient, simple, easy. The sort of thing that I really think I should have thought of for myself. Ha! 

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On 15/07/2023 at 10:06, Zoran Srb said:

2) I never use pure white on models, it looks too bright for me... On darker models I use Humbrol 147 (close to FS36495), on light models, I just add a small amount of gray to white. As far as moving barrels are concerned, they will never look as good as fixed ones, blended with a turret. Also, they are blast BAGS, so with the change in elevation, their shape changes...

And to make the blast bags do you use PVA or thinned putty? I'm thinking of using off white maybe with a wash. Thanks as ever for the help and advice. It is very much appreciated. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Last of the major construction of small pieces, now going through priming, sacrificing my first borns, painting and assembly. Then some more assembly, wiring, rigging, blast bags, railings etc. 

PXL_20230724_160940803~2


I realise I missed an amendment on the build order given as a separate piece of paper which means I haven't drilled out the holes to attach the minor boat winches to around the casement guns. Argh. I may well leave them off (I quite like the cleaner hull look), or file down the attachment points and use a dot of super glue to attach them.

 

Still getting towards the end. The box is nearly empty. 

 

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1 hour ago, Tegethoff said:

Last of the major construction of small pieces, now going through priming, sacrificing my first borns, painting and assembly. Then some more assembly, wiring, rigging, blast bags, railings etc. 

PXL_20230724_160940803~2


I realise I missed an amendment on the build order given as a separate piece of paper which means I haven't drilled out the holes to attach the minor boat winches to around the casement guns. Argh. I may well leave them off (I quite like the cleaner hull look), or file down the attachment points and use a dot of super glue to attach them.

 

Still getting towards the end. The box is nearly empty. 

 

Can you still get into the hull at all? Or make an opening? If you can you could use a reading light to get inside to light up the inside and the bits to drill through (assuming the holes are slightly thinner plastic), I did the same thing on my Dunkerque build as I also forgot to open them up before putting the deck in place, see 23rd of January update, 

 

 

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1 hour ago, S-boat 55 said:

Can you still get into the hull at all? Or make an opening? If you can you could use a reading light to get inside to light up the inside and the bits to drill through (assuming the holes are slightly thinner plastic), I did the same thing on my Dunkerque build as I also forgot to open them up before putting the deck in place, see 23rd of January update, 

 

 

Sadly I think not as it is drilling through the side wall of the hull rather than the deck. I think filing the supports and super gluing may be best (they won't support load), or leave them off for a diet-style Fuso.... 

 

PXL_20230725_172935598~2

 

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Starting the wiring. Thanks to @S-boat 55's L'Arsenal recommendation and @Zoran Srb's lessons in patience I've started to get the hang of wiring, even if it isn't the neatest. A bit of chaos in the flag lines seems fair enough!

 

PXL_20230728_191633265~2

 

Finally glued down the funnel and added the various deck-funnel ladders etc.

PXL_20230728_164140715

 

 

Edited by Tegethoff
Added Funnel
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4 minutes ago, S-boat 55 said:

Looking good, rigging brings it to life, glad the L'arsenal parts are working for you, 

Part of the "Premium" kit is a lot of flags which need to be put somewhere! 

Edited by Tegethoff
missed "be" out
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