Bertie McBoatface Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 There's plenty of visual interest on the turrets. This is going to be a very complicated ship I think, lots to look at. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tegethoff Posted June 10 Author Share Posted June 10 3 hours ago, Bertie McBoatface said: There's plenty of visual interest on the turrets. This is going to be a very complicated ship I think, lots to look at. making the super structure has been my most complicated thing to build so far. I have eyes on a Kongo which may rival it as it is both tall and expanded. The Fuse being truly pagoda like. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tegethoff Posted June 10 Author Share Posted June 10 Lesser spotted Fuso hull in silver (H8 on Mr Surfacer 1200) waiting to dry/cure. I've painted the hull (H83 dark grey 2) and the flight deck(H37 Wooden Brown) and will touch up when the masking tape comes off. The instructions say use Cocoa Brown (H17) which looks both too purple and slightly dark compared to the colour images James/Jagdtiger found here: http://blog.livedoor.jp/irootoko_jr/archives/853524.html although reassuringly it looks like sometime between 1938 and 1944 the main colour of the super structure changed from a lighter grey to a much darker grey (I'm using H83). So I think it will be Tamiya XF9 Hull Red maybe with a little bright red/orange (c.10% by volume?) to make the hull a lighter, although I only have Mr Hooby Aqueous so wonder if those can be combined. May have to try and find out... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jagdtiger1 Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 Nice looking paint job with the silver Tegethoff, never seen a metallic undercoat on a ship before so it'll be really interesting to see how this comes out! I don't know much about the accuracy of tamiya or Mr. Hobby regarding their hull red colours, but here is an extract from 'Battleships Yamato and Musashi - Anatomy of the Ship' ISBN 9781472832245 "A reddish-tinged brown was used on the underwater part of the hull, and consisted of 20 per cent red, 65 per cent brown, 10 per cent black and 5 per cent white." Of course that then leads on to what exact shade of red and brown were used, but its a good starting point if you want to mix your own paint. According to 'Imperial Japanese Navy Greys" by John Snyder (No ISBN as it has never been properly published, available from White Ensign Models in the USA), Fuso was painted in Kure grey for its entire life. That said, being exposed to constant sunshine and moisture will damage and fade the paintwork a lot. According to Fuso's TROM, Fuso went into dry dock 6 times between 38 and 44, which basically translates to roughly 6 times it was completely repainted. Of course, I don't know that for sure. Never tried mixing Tamiya and Mr. Hobby acrylics, I know that Tamiya acrylics are synthetic so shouldn't be mixed with most other acrylic brands, but I've no idea on whether Mr. Hobby aqueous are synthetic too. Best to try mixing a ml or 2 and maybe brush it onto some spare plastic to see if it reacts badly. Hope that helps, James. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoran Srb Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 5 hours ago, Tegethoff said: The instructions say use Cocoa Brown (H17) which looks both too purple and slightly dark compared to the colour images James/Jagdtiger found here: http://blog.livedoor.jp/irootoko_jr/archives/853524.html although reassuringly it looks like sometime between 1938 and 1944 the main colour of the super structure changed from a lighter grey to a much darker grey (I'm using H83). So I think it will be Tamiya XF9 Hull Red maybe with a little bright red/orange (c.10% by volume?) to make the hull a lighter, although I only have Mr Hooby Aqueous so wonder if those can be combined. May have to try and find out... She's coming up nicely.. Don't beat yourself too much, with "exact" color.... I mean even if you had color pictures (and not b&w colorized), in today's HD, it means that it looked like that on that exact date... Who knows "exact" shade three weeks prior, or after that date... And what about reflection of surroundings? It changes perceived color. Is sky clear, is it murky, is it concrete in dry dock or sea? And what about weathering, fading..??? If its fun for you, by all means, go forth, look at the photos, try to match your colors as close as possible. For me, if color looks about right, IT IS RIGHT!! Anyway, keep up the good work. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tegethoff Posted June 10 Author Share Posted June 10 8 minutes ago, Zoran Srb said: She's coming up nicely.. Don't beat yourself too much, with "exact" color.... I mean even if you had color pictures (and not b&w colorized), in today's HD, it means that it looked like that on that exact date... Who knows "exact" shade three weeks prior, or after that date... And what about reflection of surroundings? It changes perceived color. Is sky clear, is it murky, is it concrete in dry dock or sea? And what about weathering, fading..??? If its fun for you, by all means, go forth, look at the photos, try to match your colors as close as possible. For me, if color looks about right, IT IS RIGHT!! Anyway, keep up the good work. Part of it is not wanting the same hull red colour as the Royal Navy vessels I've already made... At least the K.u.K had green hulls! Thanks for the support! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoran Srb Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 5 minutes ago, Tegethoff said: Part of it is not wanting the same hull red colour as the Royal Navy vessels I've already made... At least the K.u.K had green hulls! Thanks for the support! Ah, well... IF that's the case... As far as I know (I'm sure that somebody will correct me), RN had darker, more brown hulls, then IJN. Also in IJN Only Yamato and Musashi had somewhat lighter, more reddish hulls. USN had by far lightest and reddest hulls. And if your goal is to add more variety, there's always weathering to add more spice... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tegethoff Posted June 10 Author Share Posted June 10 5 hours ago, Jagdtiger1 said: "A reddish-tinged brown was used on the underwater part of the hull, and consisted of 20 per cent red, 65 per cent brown, 10 per cent black and 5 per cent white." Interestingly this creates something very close to Cocoa Brown! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArnoldAmbrose Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 18 hours ago, Jagdtiger1 said: "A reddish-tinged brown was used on the underwater part of the hull, and consisted of 20 per cent red, 65 per cent brown, 10 per cent black and 5 per cent white." Of course that then leads on to what exact shade of red and brown were used, but its a good starting point if you want to mix your own paint. Gidday, those are the percentages of paints stated in the "Anatomy of the Ship - Yamato" (page 22). It doesn't say if that was specifically for IJN Yamato or used widely for Japanese vessels. I generally use the closest paint I can find to what I want, I rarely mix paints because of the difficulty (for me anyway) of creating an exact second batch if the first dries up or runs out. But that's just me. And I like to have variety in the display cabinet too. Regards, Jeff. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S-boat 55 Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 Don't hold me to it but I believe Japan used two different shades of antifouling, one very bright red the other an almost browny plum red (see giant Yamato museum at the Kure museum), which had which ... Now that is the question! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tegethoff Posted June 11 Author Share Posted June 11 All things considered pretty happy with this finish, some very slight tidy up needed (more around the flight deck on topside than on the hull). Even the little inbuilt steps didn't result in many leaks. Need to add colour to the prop-shafts, add the decals, 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jagdtiger1 Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 That's a nice waterline! Also very good to see you didn't have any paint peeling... Maybe I just always have bad luck with that... James. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tegethoff Posted June 11 Author Share Posted June 11 22 minutes ago, Jagdtiger1 said: That's a nice waterline! Also very good to see you didn't have any paint peeling... Maybe I just always have bad luck with that... James. Although somehow H83 (2 layers both on white Mr Surfacer 1500) seems to have very different colour on the super structure vs the hull. Balls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoran Srb Posted June 13 Share Posted June 13 On 11/06/2023 at 15:01, Tegethoff said: Although somehow H83 (2 layers both on white Mr Surfacer 1500) seems to have very different colour on the super structure vs the hull. Balls. So? Light strikes differently superstructure and hull (shading). Besides, amount of weathering is different... Unless the difference is too big, I wouldn't worry too much about it... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tegethoff Posted June 13 Author Share Posted June 13 3 hours ago, Zoran Srb said: So? Light strikes differently superstructure and hull (shading). Besides, amount of weathering is different... Unless the difference is too big, I wouldn't worry too much about it... It is quite obvious. I have taped off the hull again and just finishing the final PE pieces of the deck structures, so I will paint them all at the same time, and repaint the guns/hull/superstructure all at once so it is the same colour. 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted June 14 Share Posted June 14 12 hours ago, Tegethoff said: It is quite obvious. I agree. Even a slacker such as I would have to repaint that one. These things happen. 😏 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tegethoff Posted June 14 Author Share Posted June 14 19 minutes ago, Bertie McBoatface said: I agree. Even a slacker such as I would have to repaint that one. These things happen. 😏 Yeah, I think one jar of paint ran out and I either didn't mix the first or second jar enough. Such is life. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tegethoff Posted June 16 Author Share Posted June 16 Much better. Everything repainted. Only not so slight downer is dropping the super structure. Argh. will have to build an aiming thing and re straighten the wing of the masts. One step forward half a step back. 11 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jagdtiger1 Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 Looking much nicer now that the colour's uniform! Beautfiul looking smoke stack too! Shame about dropping the bridge, looks like the port side signal yardarm got bent? Hopefully that can be straightened out easily enough, James. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S-boat 55 Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 That's a bugger on the drop, it happens no matter how careful you move I find, She's really starting to look the part with the paint on, 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tegethoff Posted June 16 Author Share Posted June 16 3 hours ago, S-boat 55 said: That's a bugger on the drop, it happens no matter how careful you move I find, She's really starting to look the part with the paint on, Thanks. I had put a crocodile clip at the base to enable me to paint in one go but the grip wasn't strong enough. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jagdtiger1 Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 May I recommend making a loop out of strong masking tape or duct tape, then sticking that on a big piece of cardboard and sticking the bridge on top in the future? Makes it a lot more stable and easier to paint too! James. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tegethoff Posted June 16 Author Share Posted June 16 4 hours ago, Jagdtiger1 said: May I recommend making a loop out of strong masking tape or duct tape, then sticking that on a big piece of cardboard and sticking the bridge on top in the future? Makes it a lot more stable and easier to paint too! James. Good idea, but I think the Fuso is so abnormally tall and thin it would still struggle. I'd glued a bit of sprue within the conning tower to attach the crocodile clip to, partly to enable me to spray from beneath. as well 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 My sympathies to you for the drop. I’m glad it was only half a step backwards. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gondor44 Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 How about next time makeing a core that the structure will fit onto snugly. As long as it has a handle comming out the bottom of it that you can hold onto you should be good. I use a simmilar method when painting aircraft models, shove something up an orifice to hold it and Bob's your Uncle as they say. Gondor 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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