1/350 IJN Fuso. Fujimi

[Tegethoff]

Zoran, your modelling work and capabilities continue to astound me. Looking at some of those pieces up close it is extraordinary, something the overall Yamashiro as a whole photos missed! 

Did you use small pieces of wood and blue tack to secure and elevate the decks to be painted? 

I'm glad I'm not the only one who couldn't find a colour photograph, Sam and Zoran. Thanks again for the help.

The rear gunnery platform is now basically complete.  Anyone building just be aware that part E25 shouldn't be fully cut in half, only the portion with grills on should be cut and replaced with PE.
 

 

 

[Courageous]

On 4/13/2023 at 8:40 PM, Tegethoff said:

Is something like Mr Tool Cleaner right or Mr Brush Cleaner liquid or something else?

I have never used those. I use cellulose thinners from a DIY shop.

 

Stuart

[Tegethoff]

A small update, rear two turrets almost done. They are now awaiting the clamping for the 8cm exercise aiming guns on the barrels, primeing (and cellulose thinner arrival - thank you Stuart). The slot-in of the barrel covering canvas was very tight in one and even broke the axis - see photo below but I used 1.5mm brass and it has broadly worked as a replacement. 

 

 

 

[Zoran Srb]

On 16/04/2023 at 12:28, Tegethoff said:

Zoran, your modelling work and capabilities continue to astound me. Looking at some of those pieces up close it is extraordinary, something the overall Yamashiro as a whole photos missed! 

Did you use small pieces of wood and blue tack to secure and elevate the decks to be painted? 

I'm glad I'm not the only one who couldn't find a colour photograph, Sam and Zoran. Thanks again for the help.

The rear gunnery platform is now basically complete.  Anyone building just be aware that part E25 shouldn't be fully cut in half, only the portion with grills on should be cut and replaced with PE.
 

 

 

 

 

Toothpicks, matchstick  whittled down to size, hypodermic needles... Whatever I can jam  in any hole on the part in question.... Generally I avoid using blue tack, since sometimes it can be pain in a.. to remove  it completely... Of course if that part in question don't have to be painted from that side... I even superglue smaller parts to toothpicks and just (carefully) snap it off, once painting is done...

[Zoran Srb]

21 hours ago, Tegethoff said:

A small update, rear two turrets almost done. They are now awaiting the clamping for the 8cm exercise aiming guns on the barrels, primeing (and cellulose thinner arrival - thank you Stuart). The slot-in of the barrel covering canvas was very tight in one and even broke the axis - see photo below but I used 1.5mm brass and it has broadly worked as a replacement. 

 

 

 

 

To fill gap between blast bags and turret (if you are fixing gun barrels) use white glue, apply it with paintbrush, and if you have any excess, just wipe it out with damp cotton swab, while its fresh.

Edited April 20 by Zoran Srb

[Tegethoff]

Starting on the main tower. will prime and paint before putting on a wooden deck and final railings. Trying to balance completing floors and not installing bits which are very fragile so I can minimise handling before painting and glueing it all together. It is difficult but quite fun.  

 

 

[Zoran Srb]

Only reason why I did it as ,each part painted and weathered separately, was, I wanted to do windows on the bridge with celluloid (since it is much clearer then, say crystal clear), and it was a pain for me to mask all those windows.... That's why I completed each level separately, then glued windows for each level, and after that, assembled all levels to a bridge. I'm just saying, that way was easier for me.

[Tegethoff]

I think it makes sense to not paint as one unit as I don't think my airbrushing is good enough to get full coverage in so many of the covered areas, but it is quite a fun challenge building the PE up and building each floor of the tower. There are so many and still only half way through.

[Tegethoff]

Dry fit of most of the main superstructure. Some PE left off so I don't warp it too much pre-painting (ladders, radar etc). Absolutely crazy how much is contained within the Pagoda 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Thom216]

That is one busy pagoda!

[Jagdtiger1]

Its so biiiiiig! Its a real optical illusion as the Yamato bridges were 5 metres taller, but much girthier fatter making them look stouter.

 

What's next on the to do list Tegethoff? Interesting to see how you'll go about painting it.

 

James.

[Tegethoff]

1 hour ago, Thom216 said:

That is one busy pagoda!

And this is even "bare" missing a few side platforms/struts/guns/searchlights/stairs/railings etc. I think it is 13 levels. 

[Tegethoff]

1 hour ago, Jagdtiger1 said:

Its so biiiiiig! Its a real optical illusion as the Yamato bridges were 5 metres taller, but much girthier fatter making them look stouter.

 

What's next on the to do list Tegethoff? Interesting to see how you'll go about painting it.

 

James.

I guess Yamato was higher, faster, longer to slightly bastardise Daft Punk. It also doesn't get wider as it goes up like the Fuso did. 

I think - subject to globally significant arms races, my sanity, the weather etc - the plan will be to  put the PE in the semi fragile parts of the superstructure, prime it paint it (and the chimney and rear infrastructure), add in the wooden deck, then put in the fragile PE parts on the wooden deck.

 

While doing that/depending on timing of drying etc do some work on the hull and deck.

I think I'm going to prime white, lay down a IJN Grey then paint with the Dark Grey recommended by the manufacturer (H83?). As for the below water hull not 100% sure, it says Cocoa Brown (which is like a dark maroon), Hull red (Tamiya) seems too dark, so a bit conflicted here. Maybe put down some yellow and red then do a light brown over?

 

[Alan P]

That pagoda is a brilliant structure, all of your photoetch work is superb 👏👏👏

[Jagdtiger1]

As far as I can tell (hopefully someone can either back me up here or correct me), tamiya XF-9 hull red and Mr Hobby C29 hull red (formerly known as cocoa brown?) are supposed to be the correct colour for IJN hulls. That said, looking at 2 of my models the Mr Hobby hull red looks a bit deeper and darker.

 

I can't be bothered digging around for half an hour to find my Yamashiro kit, but the grey colours which they recommend sound a bit weird. According to IJN greys by John Snyder, Fuso was painted in Kure grey all her life, I do wonder why Fujimi wants you to paint another grey over the top...

 

James.

 

EDIT: Just seen that you are using Mr Hobby aqueous colours. That makes a bit more sense now, So as far as I can see H17 cocoa brown looks identical to C29 Hull brown (Why the different names??) with H61 IJN gray followed by H83 Dark gray 2 to tone it down.

 

Out of interest, is there a reason you're not using Tamiya acrylics? They do all 4 IJN greys so no need to mess about with multiple colours.

Edited April 28 by Jagdtiger1

[ArnoldAmbrose]

12 hours ago, Tegethoff said:

13 hours ago, Thom216 said:

That is one busy pagoda!

And this is even "bare" missing a few side platforms/struts/guns/searchlights/stairs/railings etc. I think it is 13 levels. 

Either way, that's very impressive detail. Regards, Jeff.

[Zoran Srb]

On 23/04/2023 at 12:37, Tegethoff said:

Starting on the main tower. will prime and paint before putting on a wooden deck and final railings. Trying to balance completing floors and not installing bits which are very fragile so I can minimise handling before painting and glueing it all together. It is difficult but quite fun.  

 

 

 

 

Coming up nicely! I finish hull with deck completely (painting and weathering), also superstructure, and just glue them together. Its easier to work with smaller sections, and less likely to knock small pieces off. My principle of work is from center outwards. Glue major parts, and fix smaller deck parts from them, outwards (cable reels, vents etc), weather them, also to point out I do rigging, before adding boats and AA, to leave less things that rigging can entangle with while working, then deck railings, and at the end, all things hanging over (barbettes, davits, boats. As I mentioned, I complete each step completely with matt coat as last, before moving to next. It's repetitive, but leaves less room for mistakes. Consider making a work stand, as you seen on my Warspite, since it gives you firm grip, and much more control, whilst handling a beast. I'm not saying that my way of doing it is right, just that it works for me. You decide what works best for you.

And keep up the good work....

[Bertie McBoatface]

Now I've tried my trembling hands at this scale I can properly appreciate your neat and tidy, square and level working. Nice one.

[Tegethoff]

15 hours ago, Jagdtiger1 said:

As far as I can tell (hopefully someone can either back me up here or correct me), tamiya XF-9 hull red and Mr Hobby C29 hull red (formerly known as cocoa brown?) are supposed to be the correct colour for IJN hulls. That said, looking at 2 of my models the Mr Hobby hull red looks a bit deeper and darker.

 

I can't be bothered digging around for half an hour to find my Yamashiro kit, but the grey colours which they recommend sound a bit weird. According to IJN greys by John Snyder, Fuso was painted in Kure grey all her life, I do wonder why Fujimi wants you to paint another grey over the top...

 

James.

 

EDIT: Just seen that you are using Mr Hobby aqueous colours. That makes a bit more sense now, So as far as I can see H17 cocoa brown looks identical to C29 Hull brown (Why the different names??) with H61 IJN gray followed by H83 Dark gray 2 to tone it down.

 

Out of interest, is there a reason you're not using Tamiya acrylics? They do all 4 IJN greys so no need to mess about with multiple colours.

I used Mr Hobby Aqueous as I started with the Viribus Unitis a Trumpeter kit (painting by hand), and they recommended Mr Hobby, and once I started I kept using them, as I moved to an airbrush with the HMS Roberts. This kit also recommends Mr Hobby see the photo below. Note it's a life/model size scale so you can see what needs to be done, which is helpful but does raise some probably unknowable questions. The one exception is I used Tamiya Hull Red on the Hood and HMS Roberts as you could get it in spray can form, but it seems really really dark (I put a silver layer on underneath HMS Hood by hand to try and lighten it at bit. I used Aqueous rather than Lacquer as it seems a little less nasty to my lungs (I hope). 

The Cocoa brown and Hull read is defiantly different (the brown-ish line on my VU is cocoa brown and Hood/Roberts Hull Red albeit Tamiya). There are some IJN/IJA colours by Mr Hobby but oddly they don't use them in this ship (apart from for the plane). 

When I did Hood I was just starting out really, and didn't realise that undercoating provided different depths of colour (so the superstructure doesn't look quite as good as the Hull in my view) so thought I'd try my own concoction here!

I also found  this YouTube video interesting and helpful 

 

 

Edited April 29 by Tegethoff
Forgot to add photo.

[Tegethoff]

4 hours ago, Zoran Srb said:

Coming up nicely! I finish hull with deck completely (painting and weathering), also superstructure, and just glue them together. Its easier to work with smaller sections, and less likely to knock small pieces off. My principle of work is from center outwards. Glue major parts, and fix smaller deck parts from them, outwards (cable reels, vents etc), weather them, also to point out I do rigging, before adding boats and AA, to leave less things that rigging can entangle with while working, then deck railings, and at the end, all things hanging over (barbettes, davits, boats. As I mentioned, I complete each step completely with matt coat as last, before moving to next. It's repetitive, but leaves less room for mistakes. Consider making a work stand, as you seen on my Warspite, since it gives you firm grip, and much more control, whilst handling a beast. I'm not saying that my way of doing it is right, just that it works for me. You decide what works best for you.

And keep up the good work....

I think I'm doing something broadly similar, working centre out, But it will be quite some time before I glue down the superstructure, and the non super structure railings will be close to last think to be added. Out of interest do you metal prime photo etch before priming with Mr surfacer/equivalent? I haven't for smaller pieces but there are now some fairly large sheets of metal. 

I think my work stand will be more moveable to be honest just from a space/storage perspective but will try something to make it a little easier... We will see!  

[mick]

excellent work on the P.E

[Zoran Srb]

1 hour ago, Tegethoff said:

I think I'm doing something broadly similar, working centre out, But it will be quite some time before I glue down the superstructure, and the non super structure railings will be close to last think to be added. Out of interest do you metal prime photo etch before priming with Mr surfacer/equivalent? I haven't for smaller pieces but there are now some fairly large sheets of metal. 

I think my work stand will be more moveable to be honest just from a space/storage perspective but will try something to make it a little easier... We will see!  

Nope. Just spray layer of oil based paint as a primer, and after I spray topcoat of color that's final. I do that while railings, and other small parts are still on the frame, and just do touchup with paint brush when/if needed....

[Tegethoff]

Semi-fiddly bits of PE made now to prime the whole superstructure layer by layer and paint..
 

 

[redcap]

Fantastic work so far. That pagoda design looks like the maritime version of a 'Catch the Pigeon' cartoon aircraft creation..! 

 

Really looking forward to the painting phase.

Gary

[Tegethoff]

Final pre-paint post - all the structural parts needed to make 1 (one) Pagoda stye super-structure.