On Heather's Workbench - Strike Hard, Strike Sure: RAF Bomber Command 1940

[Heather Kay]

 

The first job, after breakfast obvs, was to spray some Light Aircraft Grey where the squadron codes go. While that was drying, I mixed up some Trainer Yellow for the propeller tips. I mixed sufficient to also spray the outer ring of the fuselage roundels, but also enough to give the bottom of the Avro Tutor a going over.

 

I wasn’t going to cut the masks just yet, but realised I needed to for the codes on the Hampden. I will apply them once the LAG is dry enough, and they will probably remain in place until the Great Reveal near the end of proceedings. I’m still a bit hazy about the order of painting the roundels, but I’m sure I’ll work it out once I’m under way. I don’t intend on painting them until the camo is done. I know, it’s all a bit bass ackwards, but that’s the way my head works at times. I mean, I could have cut negative stencils for the codes and applied them at the same time as the roundels, but this masking the code colour before everything else seems somehow more logical.

 

Ha! Logic?! It never stopped me before!

 

Yes, I know I also still need to buy a new filter for the extractor. It’s still more or less working, so the impetus isn’t quite there.

[Heather Kay]

 

 

Code masks on. I have a profile which shows a slightly different layout, but I’m following Neil's build. 
 

 

And ColourCoats RAF Night. Being aware the nose glazing masks are beginning to lift I was careful squirting the paint around there. I suspect I may need a little careful cleaning at the end. Once the black is dry enough I’ll set about the fiddly masking so I can begin the upperworks.

 

Fairly pleased with the progress, but I am aware I shouldn’t attempt to hurry things.

 

[stever219]

5 hours ago, Heather Kay said:

 

The first job, after breakfast obvs, was to spray some Light Aircraft Grey where the squadron codes go. While that was drying, I mixed up some Trainer Yellow for the propeller tips. I mixed sufficient to also spray the outer ring of the fuselage roundels, but also enough to give the bottom of the Avro Tutor a going over.

 

I wasn’t going to cut the masks just yet, but realised I needed to for the codes on the Hampden. I will apply them once the LAG is dry enough, and they will probably remain in place until the Great Reveal near the end of proceedings. I’m still a bit hazy about the order of painting the roundels, but I’m sure I’ll work it out once I’m under way. I don’t intend on painting them until the camo is done. I know, it’s all a bit bass ackwards, but that’s the way my head works at times. I mean, I could have cut negative stencils for the codes and applied them at the same time as the roundels, but this masking the code colour before everything else seems somehow more logical.

 

Ha! Logic?! It never stopped me before!

 

Yes, I know I also still need to buy a new filter for the extractor. It’s still more or less working, so the impetus isn’t quite there.

I hope you haven't got much further yet, and that I'm not raining on your parade, but RAF code letters were Medium Sea Grey.  Light Aircraft Grey was introduced in the 1960s as a close tonal approximation to aluminium dope when polyurethane paints were introduced.  MSG has a bluer tone than LAG in certain lights.

 

Your work on this kit is giving me some incentive to liberate my Valom Hampden II from the "I'll get around to it one day" section of the "Pile of Doooòm" part of the Stash of Doom, but I'm still a tad trepid about dealing with the transparencies.

[Heather Kay]

1 minute ago, stever219 said:

I'm not raining on your parade

You are quite correct. I’ve used the wrong name.  
 

In fact, I’ve used a "near enough" grey over several builds now which matches enough for me until I order some of the right shade from ColourCoats.

[Heather Kay]

Powering through! Almost quick enough to be a blitzbuild! Well, okay, not really.

 

 

My usual Copydex slathered on the dark green. Did I mention the dark green? I got a coat or two of dark green on. 
 

 

A while later, dark earth on. I hope this will be dry enough soon so I can take all the bodywork masking off. I like to try and remove tape masking as soon as possible, so it’s less likely to damage the paint layers beneath. Fingers crossed, but it’s worked for me in the past. The glazing masking must remain for varnishing purposes later, where I attempt to tie the various paint finishes into one sort of surface finish. There’s no reason why I can't take the code letter masks off when peeling everything else off. Once that’s done, I’ll leave well alone for paint to harden, then tomorrow I shall sort out the roundels and fin flashes. That’s the bit where I confuse myself, as well as tending to rush things.

 

[Terry1954]

The Hampden is coming along nicely there Heather. It's great when the colours go on.

 

And no need to apologize for forgetting the origin of this particular Hampden. I was actually merrily looking through this thread originally and when I came to the picture of said Swedish Hampden I thought "I have one of those somewhere", then, only when I saw the conversion parts and thought "I think I have that set too", did the light bulb moment occur and I actually recalled it's provenance! My old brain is a bit clogged up these days!!

 

It's quite rewarding watching her come together.

 

Terry

[jackroadkill]

That's looking very nice, Heather.  I'm intrigued by your use of Copydex as a masking medium - intrigued enough to give it a try on one of my builds, I think.  Are there any special methods to be aware of, or is it a slap-it-on-and-go scenario?

 

Thanks,

 

JRK

[Terry1954]

3 minutes ago, jackroadkill said:

I'm intrigued by your use of Copydex as a masking medium - intrigued enough to give it a try on one of my builds, I think. 

 

Likewise. These little tips are gems! Nice one Heather.

 

Terry

[Martian]

Nice work Heather. Don't worry about that logic thing; totally overrated if you ask me. If logic had any place in modelling, I would still be struggling with my first kit. 

 

Irrational of Mars 👽

[Heather Kay]

8 minutes ago, jackroadkill said:

slap-it-on-and-go scenario?

That's pretty much my approach. The stuff is definitely a brush-wrecker, so I tend to use a cotton bud to blob it on. I have used cheap acrylic artist's brushes, and even the brush in the glue pot lid, but the former go straight in the bin after use. Getting a neat curve can be a trial, and you can’t really go back over an area already daubed. It’s also easy to miss a little bit, which only shows up as the contrasting colour once you remove it. I generally find I need to do some careful hairy stick adjustment on some edges.

 

Otherwise, it’s quick and dirty, fairly easy to peel off again, and can be used in conjunction with tape.

[jackroadkill]

2 minutes ago, Heather Kay said:

That's pretty much my approach. The stuff is definitely a brush-wrecker, so I tend to use a cotton bud to blob it on. I have used cheap acrylic artist's brushes, and even the brush in the glue pot lid, but the former go straight in the bin after use. Getting a neat curve can be a trial, and you can’t really go back over an area already daubed. It’s also easy to miss a little bit, which only shows up as the contrasting colour once you remove it. I generally find I need to do some careful hairy stick adjustment on some edges.

 

Otherwise, it’s quick and dirty, fairly easy to peel off again, and can be used in conjunction with tape.

 

Thanks very much - I shall definitely give Copydex a try.  It sounds as if it can be used to good effect with some care.

[Heather Kay]

Here's how things stand this evening. There has been a little hairy stick action to tidy some camouflage edges, but overall I’m very pleased with the way it turned out. 
 

Tomorrow, the rest of the markings, painting the exhaust collector rings, and if I’m lucky a couple of coats of matt varnish to unify everything.

[Terry1954]

Ooooo, very nice!

 

T.

[jackroadkill]

Wow, she's looking bonzer, Heather.

[dogsbody]

3 hours ago, Heather Kay said:

The stuff is definitely a brush-wrecker, so I tend to use a cotton bud to blob it on. I have used cheap acrylic artist's brushes, and even the brush in the glue pot lid, but the former go straight in the bin after use.

 

Sounds like a job for cheap childrens toy store brushes!

 

 

 

Chris

[Heather Kay]

Having left the model on the bench overnight, the basic paint colours were nice and hard. Time to work out the markings.

 

While your traditional waterslide transfers would be quicker and encompass far less faffing about and making a mess everywhere, I have to say creating my own masks and painting the things is very satisfying.

 

 

First, the various roundels were attached in the more or less right places. To ensure the centre spots of the wing Type Bs remained in register I stuck some yellow tape across things. I did the same for the fuselage Type A1 roundels. In this photo, you can see tape has been deployed, and the fuselage roundels have been left with just the outer circle. The fin flashes were carefully masked with plain yellow tape. White paint has been airbrushed carefully, in several light coats, at a very low pressure and small needle setting to avoid overspray. This was then left for about 30 minutes to dry.

 

Next, the white and blue bits of the fin flashes were masked. I had cut some film for this, so I did use the strips, again reinforced with yellow tape. The fuselage rings were reinstated, taking quite a while to align properly, and then the centre red circles were uncovered for all roundels and paint applied. Once more, left for 30 minutes to dry.

 

 

The red parts for the fin flashes were masked with plain tape. I had cut triangular bits in film, but Idiot Me didn’t spot they were all left-handed.   The wing roundels got their red circles masked, then the blue section of film carefully removed. The fuselage roundels had the red centre reinstated and the blue ring exposed. Blue paint applied. My mix is a little bright, but I’ve found it impossible to locate a paint supplier with the right shade for the dull blue. 30 minutes.

 

 

Finally, the fuselage roundel blue was remasked and the yellow ring removed. Paint applied, wait 30 minutes.

 

The verdict? On the whole, considering this is my third attempt at this game, pretty bloomin' happy. The Type Bs look fabulous.

 

 

Port side fuselage Type A1, a little bleed from the initial white coat. I was surprised there wasn’t more, considering the engraved panel lines are just begging to wick paint along themselves. I can see a tiny wisp of white between the blue and yellow around the bottom curve. It could have been a whole lot worse.

 

Port side, actually not bad at all. It’s a bit washed out as the iPad camera overexposed it. Happy with that.

 

 

The fin flashes worked remarkably well. A s*d to mask, but it worked. A little edge of white is visible, but that can be dealt with by a fine brush with the camo colours.

 

A little more bleed on the other side and - bother! White overspray on the tail cone. Ah well. Nothing I can’t sort out.

 

So, pretty darned pleased with the end result. Lessons still being learned, such as masking needs to be better, and I should work out a mix ratio to convert the bright "dull blue" next time. I shall give myself an 8 out of 10, I think.

 

Things will go quiet again for a bit. I need to print the serials on some decal film, and once they’re applied I can get the varnish done. Then it’s final bits to be stuck on, photos, and into the cabinet.

 

[Terry1954]

33 minutes ago, Heather Kay said:

So, pretty darned pleased with the end result.

 

I should say so! That is one fine result, and shows that effort in masking such tasks, pays big dividends in the end.

 

Nice one Heather.

 

Terry

[jackroadkill]

Grand job with those masks; they look a whole lot better than decals.  I just wish I had the stamina to put myself through the trauma of making/finding/buying/using them on every build.

[Heather Kay]

7 minutes ago, jackroadkill said:

I just wish I had the stamina

I know what you mean. The first time took for ever. I had to create the artwork. Then I had to learn how to work the cutter. Then I had to work out how to use what I had created.

 

Now, I have a growing library of markings that I can draw upon, that only need minor adjustment or rescaling. I have saved the setting in the software that drives the cutter that cuts the film just right. And I’ve sort of worked out how to use the results reliably. It’s becoming just another weapon in my arsenal. 
 

Let's put it this way: I’m not scared of it any more.

[Dave Slowbuild]

Quite the triumph Heather!  
A great advert for the paint-your-own method; I’m convinced!

[jackroadkill]

1 hour ago, Heather Kay said:

I know what you mean. The first time took for ever. I had to create the artwork. Then I had to learn how to work the cutter. Then I had to work out how to use what I had created.

 

Now, I have a growing library of markings that I can draw upon, that only need minor adjustment or rescaling. I have saved the setting in the software that drives the cutter that cuts the film just right. And I’ve sort of worked out how to use the results reliably. It’s becoming just another weapon in my arsenal. 
 

Let's put it this way: I’m not scared of it any more.

 

It seems to be one of those things you have to jump into with both feet if you want to do it properly.  I've only ever used pre-cut masks from the likes of Montex etc.  The design and cutting stuff is more than I'd be able to handle, at least for the moment.

[Keeff]

Outstanding work Heather .... the painting, masking, painting, masking, painting, oh and copydexing are great 👍 

 

Keith 😁 

[LorenSharp]

On 4/30/2023 at 2:11 PM, Martian said:

, I would still be struggling with my first kit. 

 

Irrational of Mars 👽

Or the purchase of your first kit, like me.

[Heather Kay]

With the Hampden well on the way to completion, I turn my sights on the next project. I think it’s time to begin considering the Stirling.

 

I won’t go into the deep history on the type just yet, though the Stirling's place as the first 4-engined "heavy" in service is noteworthy. Let’s see the raw materials.

 

 

We are back in the 1970s for this kit. The transfers look a bit ropey, but I’m not expecting to use them.

 

 

None of your poncey PE instrument panels here. Cut it out of the instructions and glue it on. Fans of the re-invented Doctor Who will recognise the pilots are of the species Ood. Step 4 illustrates well the problems I will face upgrading the turrets.

 

 

Options, options, and in three languages. I may have to pay close attention. The David Brown tractor won’t be appearing, so if you would like the parts drop me a line. It’s a bit modern for 1940. The trolleys, though, have already been snaffled for set dressing purposes.

 

 

Airfix paints! Happy days! Let’s see, M3 and M5 are the dark green and dark earth (or vice versa); M6 is black; M11 I believe is silver. M13 might have been RAF blue-grey. I can’t recall the gloss colours. I’m sure another oldie will pipe up and remind us!

 

To the meat and potatoes…

 

 

 

Black plastic. Airfix used to mould all their RAF bombers in black. This stuff is quite brittle, too, so I’ll need to be a bit careful. The riveting and panel work is raised, but restrained. If there’s a lot of sanding required, it might pay me to spend time rescribing stuff. 
 

It’s a big old bird, that’s for sure. Things to note here, to build this as an early MkI Series 1 I may need to fill fuselage windows as well as remove traces of the mid-upper turret. 
 

Having spent most of its 48 years rattling around loose in the box, many parts have become detached from their runners. I have checked, and it all seems to be there. I paid a tenner for this kit at Scale Model World 2018.

 

One assumes the designers of the original kit worked out the optimum location for the fuselage slot so the huge model would be safe to display on that lovely clear stand. Most of the transparencies will be swapped out for the Falcon vacform set. 
 

 

So far, apart from the Falcon clear parts, this is the only aftermarket I have. The turrets are exercising ze leedle grey cells. I’ve a spare Trumpeter Wellington which might be persuaded to give up its Frazer Nash FN.5 nose turret. Quite how I approach the FN.4 for the tail turret remains to be seen. I have a notion I may copy what Airfix has done for the Wellington or Lancaster. I have decided to invest in the PE detailing sets intended for the Italeri kits, on the basis that something is better than nothing, and even if I don’t use all the parts there’s something in there which will help. I have also been donated a set of ex-Airfix Hercules engines and cowlings from the Lancaster MkII kit. 
 

I have compared the plastic fuselage and wings to a scale drawing, and they’re close enough that I’m not going to fret over a millimetre or two here and there. The shape is about right overall. 
 

So, that’s the bare bones. Plenty of research is being done, and as well as the Warpaint guide you will recall I have the Wingleader book on the Stirling. I think I’ll need to spend a bit of time comparing kit parts and adding to the list I posted way up the thread.

 

 

[LorenSharp]

Goodness Heather, You're going for the Bigguns now. You must have found a bigger display case.