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Panzer II Ausf. J “Tiger Cub”


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Joining in with this little guy with an odd design twist for a recon tank having armour thickness (80mm front with sides and rear at 50mm) approaching that of the Tiger I tank.   Not sure if the nick name Tiger Cub was historically used, so just may be a modern term.   The added weight did slow down road speed to maximum 31 km/h (19 mph).   It's armament was the standard layout of the Panzer II, though the 2cm gun was an improved version with a faster rate of fire. 

 

some links of interest:

https://tanks-encyclopedia.com/ww2/germany/panzer-ii-ausf-j/

https://www.worldwarphotos.info/gallery/germany/tanks-2-3/panzer2j/

 

kit contents:

wxPAgQI.jpg

 

Couple aftermarket items, photo etch and metal track links:

PS7a1Ln.jpg

 

 

 

regards,

Jack

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Overdue for an update, but yeah still on the first page of instructions.  So far have the hull tub with 14 parts glued on either side.  Before going further need some correcting on details ...

hull-tub-details.jpg

 

From what I gather. most of the hull details on dual MG armed PzKpfw.I Ausf.F (VK18.01) was essentially identical except for the hull width and fender design. Two of these survived the war and can be found on display at the Kubinka Tank Museum while the other is in Belgrade.  Looking at the online walk around photos, I have complied a fix list though not sure if I will be able to incorporate them all.

- the pair of bump stops on either hull side are totally wrong design and should have the triangle shaped section inverted and probably made a bit wider

- the oblong raised detail at the either end of the shock absorbers should be round and represent grease nipples

- the kit part representing the track tension adjuster just sort of sits behind the idler mounts and its orientation should be more horizontal than sitting on an angle

- four conical bolts on the hull sides need to be made about three times larger with a weld bead at its base, and are found adjacent to the drive housings while the other two are sitting just above/behind the idler mountings

- the open spoked road wheels need more than just weld beads
-- the front face of the rims extend further towards the center so they slightly over lap the spokes
-- rear face of the road wheels - the rims should extend further in diameter to protect the rubber from the track guide teeth
-- the area in between the pair of spoked wheels is only partly correct and should have two half open holes instead just the one
-- the hub caps could be sanded thinner while the surface they mate on should be of the same circumference

- kit sprocket hubs have just round domes but should really be slotted hex nuts with washers while the raised hub cap should be recessed
- bolt head details on inner sides just below guide teeth
- the pairing of raised edges on the sides of the spokes should not be identical

 

i-XtgfPZK-X2.jpg

 

i-GBRJ588-X2.jpg

 

37144936213_71746e2bf5_k.jpg

Edited by JackG
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Thanks @Col.

 

Can't say for certain if it was lack of research, plastic injection limitations or a combination of both on Hobby Boss end. 

 

Yesterday I started to tackle the correction of the detail between the road wheel spokes, and after a couple hours had something concrete to work from but would probably require at least another hours work to finally have one insert to place in between the two wheel halves.   Multiply that by six (number of spokes per wheel) and another multiplication of six as that is the number of wheel pairs to be corrected = a lot of bench time. 

 

The corrections aspect of this project would be ideal for 3D printing, but I have neither the knowledge nor a 3D printer.   I am familiar though with creating the artwork for the photo etch process.  As I have the similar  Pzkpfw. I Ausf.F  in the stash as well, looks like I will go ahead and design a PE sheet that should be easily filled since there so much repetitive parts.

 

regards. 

Jack

 

 

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