Jump to content

Revell 1/32 FW190A-8/R2 'Yellow 2', Fw Hubert Engst, 6/JG300, Löbnitz, Dec 1944 **Finished**


Stew Dapple

Recommended Posts

20 hours ago, Retired Bob said:

That's how I prefer my aircraft as well, so I'm happy with the Eduard representation of the engine with just a raised set of cylinders and reduction gear, once the cooling fan is on it's almost impossible to see any of the engine anyway.

Well done with this one Stew.  Ready for primer already.  :like:

 

Thanks Bob, not quite at the primer stage, but close :) 

 

19 hours ago, 81-er said:

Nice progress there, Stew, particularly your engine painting. Even if almost none of it will be seen, it's beautifully done

 

James

 

Thanks James, I once read of a Spanish modellers' expression "Modelling for God" for the bits that won't be seen, but you do them anyway :D 

 

13 hours ago, Ray_W said:

Just catching up with this Stew. Another lovely 1/32 build underway. Exceptionally neat construction and painting as usual. In 1/32 the Sturmbock will look quite special.  I really like the HGW harness.

 

Ray

 

Thanks very much Ray, I used the wrong wash on the harness so it came out a bit redder than I expected which was faintly disappointing and entirely my own fault, however I consoled myself with the thought that a) there was a certain amount of variety in the fabric colours used for harnesses and b) it was unlikely to be the worst thing I got wrong :D 

 

8 minutes ago, Casey said:

I will try to get mine with engine as visible as possible, it is the best part of that model and it is a shame it is next to invisible when enclosed.

 

It would be a boring world if we were all like me :D The kit certainly does provide the opportunity to show off the engine with little else needed except maybe some wiring if you were that way inclined, so you can fill your boots :) 

 

I applied the decal for the spinner spiral, needless to say I made a bit of a pig's ear of it, but it looks okay from certain angles:

 

DSCN0984.jpg

 

I also got the clear parts masked and sprayed. The moulding of the Revell clear parts was a bit soft compared to the Hasegawa kit and masking them turned into a bit of a trial... well I exaggerate, but it wasn't as easy and I junked the idea of masking inside and out even though I had the Eduard T-Face set which allows you to do this. Don't judge :D The canopy will be shut anyway to this isn't quite the dereliction of modelling duty that it may at first appear to be:

 

DSCN0986.jpg

 

To regain my lost kudos I made a new pitot tube out of Albion Alloys tubing, brass for the core and aluminium for the sleeve. The aluminium tube is easier to cut but softer so prone to bending or even breakage if handled clumsily, but the brass tube should provide a sturdy brace for it. The kit part was okay, but a bit flimsy looking and had a lot of nubs that needed trimming, to be frank it was less work to make a new one:

 

DSCN0988.jpg

 

Finally I fitted the main drop tank fairing on the underside, but I left off the rack's frontal assembly below - Revell call the colour for this part as being the same blue as the rest of the underside, but I have seen models (and indeed the profile from the EagleCal decal set) showing this a much darker colour, perhaps black or natural metal? I'd appreciate any input you might have:

 

DSCN0990.jpg

 

I don't think I'll get much, if anything, done today as it's set to be quite busy but hopefully more soon :) 

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

 

 

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work Stew. Just thinking about the colour of the front of the drop tank fairing. I’ve also seen this but could it maybe exhaust staining??  Just a thought. 
 

James 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks James; it might have made things a bit easier if I had posted a picture yesterday, so I'll make it up with two pictures today:

 

DSCN0991.jpg

 

DSCN0994.jpg

 

See what I mean? Too dense and localised to be anything but deliberate painting (or not painting) of the area in question, I'm wondering if it is some sort of rubberised non-slip/shock absorbing coating, I'll probably go with that anyway, Revell and EagleCal have both clearly done more research (i.e. a lot) than I have (i,e, next to nothing) but most importantly I like the way it looks :D 

 

I attached the canopy parts - I did paint the headrest and decal the internal part of the hood but neglected to take a picture, hopefully it will be visible after removal of the canopy masks. I also remembered to mask up the tail-wheel, so all that's required now is to put some Mig putty in the main landing gear bays and I'll be ready to prime:

 

DSCN0996.jpg

 

I've got the day off work today and tomorrow so hopefully can make some progress on that :) 

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Stew Dapple said:

See what I mean? Too dense and localised to be anything but deliberate painting (or not painting) of the area in question, I'm wondering if it is some sort of rubberised non-slip/shock absorbing coating, I'll probably go with that anyway, Revell and EagleCal have both clearly done more research (i.e. a lot) than I have (i,e, next to nothing) but most importantly I like the way it looks :D 

Hi Stew, I had a look in my reference books, as usual there are only B & W photos to work from.  The racks appear to have been delivered in RLM 66 or black paint and were not always painted with the underside colour so I think that's the best way to go, hope this helps.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

40 minutes ago, Retired Bob said:

The racks appear to have been delivered in RLM 66 or black paint and were not always painted with the underside colour so I think that's the best way to go, hope this helps.

 

I went through the same process and opted for RLM 66

 

BM Fw190A-8 WIP66

 

Ray

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks very much gents, I suspected there was some reason for the EagleCals interpretation, good to know there was :) 

 

So: primed:

 

DSCN0997.jpg

 

Looking rather svelte in black. Let us now bow our heads for a moment's silence to mark the end of my bottle of Alclad Black Primer, which obligingly lasted long enough for me to complete the priming. I've bought some of the Mig primer in anticipation of this, I can only hope that when the time comes it performs as well, especially since I bought two biggish bottles of it which will seem a bit of a waste of money if it doesn't :D 

 

I've got a few day's leave coming up and the dog and I are off to Aberdeenshire tomorrow to visit my Dad, so I've got quite a bit to do today in terms of doing housework, packing a bag etc. but if time and opportunity (and not having an extra-curricular kip all afternoon) allows I may get some RLM76 applied :) 

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks good. 
 

I share your pain I’ve almost used up my bottle of grey ultimate primer (which apparently is rebranded stynlrez primer) I’ve tried AK primer which wasn’t too bad and I have a bottle of olive stynlrez as replacement but I’m a bit leery of both…

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/18/2023 at 6:00 PM, Marklo said:

I bit the bullet and ordered up some more Ultimate primer €30 but the last bottle lasted three years….
 

 

 

Probably the best idea, if you know something works for you it's worth sticking with it, and per year that's not a bad price :) 

 

My original intention was to get straight on with the RLM76 undersides/sides/tail but taking a leaf out of a few builds on here I thought it might be prudent to paint and mask the Reich Defence band before I did that, it's a rather fetching blue-white-blue on this aircraft. EagleCals know that as an experienced modeller you would not use a decal for this and so they don't supply one. That's fine as I can kid myself that I wouldn't have used the decal, but it would have been useful for colour- and size-matching. A quick google revealed the total band was 900mm in real life, so about 9,35mm in 1/32 for each of the three coloured bands... I sprayed the whole band area white first, then masked off the central white band in what I hope are the appropriate dimensions:

 

DSCN1000.jpg

 

I could not find an official colour designation for the blue, or indeed a description of it other than 'bright blue' so I mixed a bit of US Navy 'True Blue' with some pale powder blue that Jamie had mixed me up, to get a more-or-less match somewhere between the illustration on the EagleCal sheet and the JG300 band included as a decal in the Revell Bf109G-10 kit:

 

DSCN1002.jpg

 

Once that's fully cured I'll mask it off, and then I can get on as planned with the RLM76 painting :) 

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

 

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, 81-er said:

I like the blue, Stew. Out of curiosity, what's with the faces on the stoppers your knives are in?

 

James

 

10 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

The colors of the band are nice, and Im with James. Whats the deal with the smiley faces ? 

 

Thank you gents :cheers: The smiley/not smiley face distinguishes the No.10 (curved) blade from the No.11 (straight) blade and just saves me the effort of un-corking the blade I don't need instead of the blade I do - smiley face = curved blade, straight face = straight blade. This might sound like a solution to a problem that doesn't really exist, but I obviously thought at some point that it was worth the effort to draw a face on a cork to save, ooh, whole minutes over the years :D 

 

I didn't get a lot done yesterday but I did get the blue parts of the band masked. The rearmost coloured band follows an angled panel line at the rear so isn't actually parallel to the white band at the back, it may turn out looking like I got it wrong, but we will know ;) 

 

DSCN1003.jpg

 

I finish work at 3pm today and the evenings are drawing out so I may be able to get some paint on after work :) 

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the faces on the corks works for you, Stew, then who are we to judge. I like the idea, FWIW. I'm looking forward to seeing this with some paint on as well

 

James

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 24/03/2023 at 05:49, Stew Dapple said:

The rearmost coloured band follows an angled panel line at the rear so isn't actually parallel to the white band at the back, it may turn out looking like I got it wrong, but we will know ;) 

Yes, these RVD bands follow (or not) various lines and angles to each other, there was obviously some reason for it, other than to screw with modellers in the future. :shrug:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/24/2023 at 9:27 AM, 81-er said:

If the faces on the corks works for you, Stew, then who are we to judge. I like the idea, FWIW. I'm looking forward to seeing this with some paint on as well

 

James

 

Haha thanks James, it amused me at the time and actually it probably has saved me some time and irritation over the years :D 

 

20 hours ago, Retired Bob said:

Yes, these RVD bands follow (or not) various lines and angles to each other, there was obviously some reason for it, other than to screw with modellers in the future. :shrug:

 

I suspect it was just easier to paint following the line, but that's applying my mindset to it :D 

 

Have Blue:

 

DSCN1005.jpg

 

Hopefully I can apply the Grauviolet today :) 

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, 81-er said:

That looks nice & smooth, Stew

 

James

 

Thanks James, I'm always pleasantly surprised by how well the RLM76 covers even over black, I think it's going to be a problem and then it isn't :D 

 

11 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

The faces idea sees like a good one, sadly I'm not really a wine drinker. So will need to see where I can find some corks. 

 

Me neither Dennis, but good whisky tends to come with good corks :D 

 

I got the grauviolet applied:

 

DSCN1008.jpg

 

DSCN1010.jpg

 

I could have just pressed on and applied the RLM74 grey-green, but I was feeling lazy and there's still plenty of GB time left :) 

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

  • Like 6
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yesterday I got the RLM74 applied:

 

DSCN1013.jpg

 

Spot the undeliberate mistake? I neglected to paint the opaque rear part of the canopy :blush: I've done it now and I thought I'd photographed it, I was planning to use that picture to spare myself the embarrassment but it turned out I hadn't photographed it after the touch-up so it's a fair cop guv  :bobby:

 

I've got the day off today :king: (but am working tomorrow :huh:) so I predict some mottling in my immediate future... 

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, there was mottling. Just a brief recap of EagleCals' interpretation of the original camo:

 

DSCN1019.jpg

 

I did my best; a little overwrought and indeed overdone, but it will have to do as it's unlikely I could do any better anyway :D 

 

DSCN1015.jpg

 

DSCN1016.jpg

 

I can take some consolation from my long-held and long-cherished belief that the appearance of mottling always improves about 25% when the transfers are applied :) 

 

Finally, I could not resist unmasking the tail-wheel and fuselage band:

 

DSCN1021.jpg

 

Actually not too shabby, no overspray or undercreep on the fuselage band... the blue is a bit more saturated than I imagined it would be and rather brighter than the EagleCals profile, but not as bright as the JG300 fuselage band on the decal sheet for the Revell Bf109G-10.  So if they can get away with it, presumably I'm within acceptable parameters :lol:

 

Next I need to mask the square black area behind the exhaust outlets and in between that start generally fiddling around with the undercarriage bits :) 

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

 

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...