davidl Posted May 7, 2023 Share Posted May 7, 2023 Hi Eiger Your models look pretty good from 2 inches away !!! Would you mind doing a quick explanation of how you get such a clean result with the PE flap sets You are clearly not using solder and I don't know how you are getting such a clean result with Cyno/ super glue !!! - I have a terrible time with CA it doesn't stick to parts - it sticks to me Even when it does stick parts together they detach with only minor provocation ... maddening stuff what brand of CA do you use How do you apply the stuff How long do you hold parts in position while the glue set are there any other particular pointers you can give ? ..., Please !!! That's going to be a very nice Beaufort TIA Regards, David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elger Posted May 8, 2023 Author Share Posted May 8, 2023 6 hours ago, davidl said: Hi Eiger Your models look pretty good from 2 inches away !!! Would you mind doing a quick explanation of how you get such a clean result with the PE flap sets You are clearly not using solder and I don't know how you are getting such a clean result with Cyno/ super glue !!! - I have a terrible time with CA it doesn't stick to parts - it sticks to me Even when it does stick parts together they detach with only minor provocation ... maddening stuff what brand of CA do you use How do you apply the stuff How long do you hold parts in position while the glue set are there any other particular pointers you can give ? ..., Please !!! That's going to be a very nice Beaufort TIA Regards, David Thanks David. I've gotten a little better at using CA to glue PE; there were two gamechangers for me: one was using black CA so you can see more easily what you're doing. I'm using black CA from Mig Ammo, and another benefit from it is that it doesn't crystalize as much as regular PE when it dries for some reason (could be that it differs per batch). This means that when it dries it looks more like a friendly round blob rather than a mini coral reef. I apply it with a toothpick. The second is using superglue debonder - I have a bottle from AK interactive. I don't usually use the applicator brush but use a small q-tip from Tamiya soaked in it. You apply it, leave it for about 30-60 seconds and then you're able to rub away most of it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elger Posted May 13, 2023 Author Share Posted May 13, 2023 Painted the undersides and the interior green areas. I was going to use "night" from AK's third gen range but it looked way too blue to my eye, so I made a 50-50 mix of Vallejo Black Gray and Black thinned with AK's third gen thinner. I spent the morning playing around with my Silhouette cutter making masks for the code letters: I'm aiming to spray on the code letters and serial numbers tonight. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elger Posted May 13, 2023 Author Share Posted May 13, 2023 result! 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 13, 2023 Share Posted May 13, 2023 the "H" looks tricky but you've achieved an excellent result, those Silhouette cutters look to be a useful option rgds John(shortCummins) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elger Posted May 13, 2023 Author Share Posted May 13, 2023 They are! Not too difficult to use, and great results. Mind you, the complimentary pair of tweezers that came with my box has been worth the purchase 😆 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelling minion Posted May 13, 2023 Share Posted May 13, 2023 Great job on the code letters they have turned out really well. 🇺🇦 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elger Posted May 17, 2023 Author Share Posted May 17, 2023 oh, hello decals on - the roundels and fin flashes are from the ICM decal sheet and they performed very well Next up some more clear coating. As always, thanks for looking! 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeusa Posted May 17, 2023 Share Posted May 17, 2023 Just went through this thread and amazing results on the kit so far. The interior is just fantastic and the camo scheme you have applied looks great. Hope you enjoyed your stay over on this side of the pond. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elger Posted May 22, 2023 Author Share Posted May 22, 2023 weathering with enamels, metallic acrylics, and oils I can start thinking about finishing. Still waiting for the engines (Dutch postal service messed up), but a replacement set should be on the way. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted May 22, 2023 Share Posted May 22, 2023 Wow, this has come on very well and looks phenomenal, the weathering effects are superb . Great work. Chris 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zephyr91 Posted May 22, 2023 Share Posted May 22, 2023 Just discovered this build. Excellent stuff and fine results so far. Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elger Posted May 24, 2023 Author Share Posted May 24, 2023 Added a coat of clear flat: The new engines from Aerocraft arrived just this afternoon so I'll be working on the engines next, and putting the wings and the fuselage together. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elger Posted May 27, 2023 Author Share Posted May 27, 2023 Spent the day working on the engines. The replacement cowls from Aerocraft make a huge difference: Engines assembled, ready for paint: 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elger Posted May 28, 2023 Author Share Posted May 28, 2023 Originally I had in mind to convert the kit's torpedo into a mine, but then I got lazy and got this resin one from Belcher Bits. Added some spare decals for some additional visual interest getting there... 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelling minion Posted May 28, 2023 Share Posted May 28, 2023 Really nice work, the engines and cowlings look very nice indeed. 🇺🇦 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elger Posted June 10, 2023 Author Share Posted June 10, 2023 Finished the engines, cowls, and propellers: And we're heading towards the finish line: Thanks for looking! 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted June 10, 2023 Share Posted June 10, 2023 All the parts laid out like that just underline what a fantastically neat and precise build this has been. You have made that kit a whole lot better than what you started with. Looking forward to seeing the model all assembled. Regards, Adrian 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelling minion Posted June 10, 2023 Share Posted June 10, 2023 Fantastic work, looks really good already but will look superb when all the parts are assembled. 🇺🇦 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogsbody Posted June 10, 2023 Share Posted June 10, 2023 A question, if I may. Why did you paint the prop hubs silver or whatever colour you used? During the war years, very few, if any British RAF aircraft had un-painted hubs, especially if the hub was visible. The kit's painting directions do not call for metallic hubs. Now, I haven't looked through photos of Mk.II P&W powered Beauforts to see what the American props looked like, but the Bristol Taurus Mk.I's would be black, just like the prop blades. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogsbody Posted June 10, 2023 Share Posted June 10, 2023 I have just found this! Notice though, that only the forward hub and the pitch counter-weights are un-painted metal, as these wound be covered by the conical spinner, fitted over them. the hub where the prop blades connect are painted black. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elger Posted June 10, 2023 Author Share Posted June 10, 2023 49 minutes ago, dogsbody said: A question, if I may. Why did you paint the prop hubs silver or whatever colour you used? During the war years, very few, if any British RAF aircraft had un-painted hubs, especially if the hub was visible. The kit's painting directions do not call for metallic hubs. Now, I haven't looked through photos of Mk.II P&W powered Beauforts to see what the American props looked like, but the Bristol Taurus Mk.I's would be black, just like the prop blades. Chris don't know, really, other than that it looks good. You are right though - all my references show it too. I might change it, thanks for the heads up! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elger Posted June 11, 2023 Author Share Posted June 11, 2023 Final assembly commences. I had glued part F1-1, the fairing that covers the turret, in place with white glue during the build so that I could remove it to install the turret pieces. It was a riskier plan that I had expected. I first glued the gun assembly (step 67) in place with some Revell Contacta cement. I then placed the front part of the turret (G-16) over it while the glue was still setting so the parts were still a little bit moveable. Then I proceeded to install the armour plate from the Eduard detail set, but when installing the rear part of the turret (G-20) it was too tall and it wouldn't fit. With the glue setting and working with clear parts, I decided to remove the armour plate and just install the rear part of the turret. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elger Posted June 18, 2023 Author Share Posted June 18, 2023 Done for real now. Thanks for all the support and input during the build! RFI here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235126972-148-icm-beaufort-as-aw207-bx-h-of-86-squadron-lost-on-november-24th-1941-rfi/ 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keeff Posted June 18, 2023 Share Posted June 18, 2023 Wow! Outstanding work and details ... one to be proud of! 👏 Keith 😁 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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