How to deal with decals that are too thin and sticky

[hsr]

I am about to do the decals on my Modelsvit T-46 trainer. The decal sheet has no name on it so I don't know who printed them. They supply a decals for the instrument panel and on putting that one on I found that these are the type of decals that are extremely thin and will stick and not move from the first place they are positioned. I have found this to be a problem with Sword decals also. Experience has shown that I can sometimes work a very wet soft brush under them and once they have been lifted from their first location they can then be moved around. But because they are so thin doing this tends to make them roll up into a useless ball. I have also found that with Print Scale decals, that also like to roll up into a ball, that giving them a coat of Micro-Scale decal film will tame the rolling into a ball issue but, that creates its own problems. Has anyone been able to work with these decals so they don't stick instantly?

 

Thanks

Howard

 

[Ray_W]

Hi Howard,

 

I had a real tussle with thin decals and overcome the problem using the Microscale decal film. I went through multiple attempts and finally settled on this method:

 

1. Smooth and good gloss coat surface (I used my preferred lacquer Gunze GX112).

2. Coat the decals with Mircoscale Liquid Decal Film and allow to dry. Soft wide brush is all you need.

3. Trim close to the original film size though I found anything tight against the number did not provide sufficient strength. Any corrective movement of the decal and it would crack.

4. Cold water and plenty of time so the decal comes off the backing paper with zero force. Float it into position.

5. Micro Set under the decal. Squeeze out.

6. Micro Sol over the top and push down to ensure any silvering does not occur, multiple applications may be needed. I use a slightly moist Q-Tip.

7. Once dry, coat the white base numerals with a gloss coat (Tamiya X-22 wanting a slightly less aggressive solvent than my preferred GX-112).

8. Repeat the process 2-6 for the red outline decals.

 

All the gory details are in this WIP:

 

 

As to decals that stick and resist movement. I have found success with Gunze's Mr Mark Setter NEO. Gives me more working time than Microset. In your case I would probably try the Micro-scale decal film, plenty of soak time and possibly Gunze Mark Setter.

 

Good luck. 

 

Ray

[hsr]

14 minutes ago, Ray_W said:

 Cold water and plenty of time so the decal comes off the backing paper with zero force. Float it into position.

Cold water, not hot?

 

I'll have to see if the LHS has the Mr. Mark Setter.

 

Thanks

[Ray_W]

5 minutes ago, hsr said:

Cold water, not hot?

 

It worked with the decals I was using. Long soak time and cold water. I needed the cold water otherwise impossible to prevent the decals, like you say, rolling into a ball. The Microscale decal film did help a lot. But, you'll note I had to buy more decals as I had so many failures. You may not have that luxury.

 

 

[hsr]

13 minutes ago, Ray_W said:

You may not have that luxury.

No I don't. I'll try the cold water

 

Thanks

[Ngantek]

One thing Ray touched on but could probably do with emphasis is that the resist movement side of things is is more of a function of the surface you're applying to than the decal; matte surfaces will grip any decal and be very difficult to move. I'm sure you've considered this but I thought it might be worth pointing out just in case.

 

[hsr]

Just as a follow up. The decals in question are printed by Decograph in the Ukraine. On the sheet were markings for 3 aircraft so I did some testing on ones that i was not going to use; hot water, cold water, decal film, and no decal film. I found that they seemed to not crumple up and be movable with all 4 cases so, I decided to go with cold water and no decal film. For the most part they worked fine but there were some that did stick and refuse to move unless I was able to run a #11 blade under them, then they would move, but they tended to crumple. So for future reference I will always coat them with decal film before using, Decograph decals again.

 

Thanks for all your help and suggestions.

[malpaso]

I’ve found with thin E European decals to avoid Microset (the blue bottle) as it makes them just too “grabby”.  I just use lots of water to get the decals in position and pressed down in the right place.  Only then to use (red) Microsol or the UMP setting solutions.

[Bertie McBoatface]

NB I have not tried this idea in practice so don't take chances with it until someone tests it properly.

 

Would a drop or two of flow improver/washing up liquid/dish soap in the soaking water help with the grabbing problems?