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My first road car - Tamiya 1/24 VW Beetle


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Hi All

 

My second model completion for 2023 and I've gone for something a bit different. I'm normally a military modeler, but I've been taken with many of the cars on this site, so I wanted to begin to dabble myself. Started with a cheap kit of an iconic car (picked mainly for the cost, not for it's specific relevance to me). I have to say, I really enjoyed building it, it was nice to have a bit of variety and I'm pleased with the outcome for the most part. It's not my first car - I built the Tamiya 1/12 Williams Renault last year, but it is my first in 1/24 and the first "normal" car I've built, so I still consider myself a novice on this front although I have been building models for a while. I'm going to highlight the main flaw in my build, the thing I'm least happy with, and that is that I've "fogged" most the windows. I have this problem on aircraft as well, I know it's the glue doing it, and I use the minimum amount needed to get them to stick, but still get the fogging. I've taken to not fixing the canopies in place on most my aircraft to get around the issue. Since this isn't an option for cars, does anyone have some good advice for how to avoid it? Thanks and hope you enjoy :) 

 

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I hope no-one will mind a couple of WIP composites, I've built this pretty quickly (in about 10 days or so - quick for me) so didn't get round to creating a proper work in progress post.

 

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Very nice. - welcome to the vehicles section. The only time I've got fogging is when using superglue, which is best avoided around clear parts. 

 

Micro Kristal Klear is what I use. It is either PVA or very nearly PVA. It won't fog, nor will it melt paint.

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Looks good despite the fogging.  Maybe someone's up to no good in there?  I use GS-Hypo cement to stick my canopies and other clear parts down.  It's a watch crystal cement, and sticks well without fogging canopies.  PVA is also a decent option :)

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2 hours ago, galaxyg said:

Very nice. - welcome to the vehicles section. The only time I've got fogging is when using superglue, which is best avoided around clear parts. 

 

Micro Kristal Klear is what I use. It is either PVA or very nearly PVA. It won't fog, nor will it melt paint.

 

Therein lies my error exactly, superglue. Thanks for the tip on an alternative.

 

32 minutes ago, Mike said:

Looks good despite the fogging.  Maybe someone's up to no good in there?  I use GS-Hypo cement to stick my canopies and other clear parts down.  It's a watch crystal cement, and sticks well without fogging canopies.  PVA is also a decent option :)

 

Thanks Mike, another product to look out for. And maybe I'll call it a car with dubious activity going down rather than an error in future 😃

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That's a very nice build, well detailed and well executed.  Looks really good!

 

Another option for fixing windows, canopies and other clear plastic items is Deluxe Materials Glue 'n' Glaze, PVA-based and made for the job (the clue's in the name!).

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2 hours ago, Neddy said:

Deluxe Materials Glue 'n' Glaze

Thanks Neddy, for both the appreciation and the tip, several products to look out for before I try the next car (tbh, might be useful on the Lancaster I'm building now as well)

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Nice build, like the colour!

 

If I have to use superglue to fix in badly fitting windows, I do it before attaching the body to the chassis - then if they fog you can polish the fogging off (usually!)

 

If you can get the body off your VW without damaging anything you might still be able to remove the fogging.

 

But it's a good looking model anyway!

 

Keith

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I would definitely agree with the others that this is a nice build, especially as you're only just moving into the car model world.

 

As Keith has said above, you can polish off the fogging using polishing compounds if you can get the body off - the CA fogging is a deposit on the clear part rather than something which has eaten into the plastic. To add another option for attaching clear parts, I use clear UV setting resin to hold clear parts in place.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07VGW98Q3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Basically apply with a cocktail stick as you would Clearfix or equivalent, then once you're satisfied with the placement shine a UV torch onto the glass for a couple of minutes until it's set. You can put your model in daylight too, but it will take much longer to dry. Another advantage is that if you get some onto the clear part you can wipe it off provided you notice it before curing.

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Lovely Vee-Dub! As others have said, CA and clear parts don’t mix. I have encountered CA crazing of clear parts even if I’m bonding a non-clear part nearby the clear part. Also, I’ve noticed that the crazing can take a while to show up (the next day!). I usually try to bond auto glass to car bodies by wicking in a very small amount of Tamiya extra thin cement with the window part in place (make sure paint is scraped off the contacting part of the car body inner window frames). If that’s not possible, I’ve had good luck with Testors Clear Parts Cement and Window Maker 

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That’s a lovely “Käfer” (Beetle) you have build there and the colour is just perfect for this car 👍 

 

For clear parts I use Revell Contacta Clear, which is a kind of PVA glue I think (?) and so far I never had any issues with fogging. 
 

Looking forward to seeing your next build :) 

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Thanks @Spiny, @nearsightedjohn and @desert falcon for the hints and tips, looking forward to seeing how I get on now.

 

3 hours ago, johnlambert said:

That's gorgeous, it makes me want to tackle the version of the kit that I have in my stash.

 

Totally should, goes together real easy and a nice fun build. I didn't mix the paint as instructed, found something that looked right in a non-Tamiya paint.

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Very nice build. Lovely scale sheen makes it look like a road car rather than a high gloss restoration.

Cyanoacrylate  (superglue)vapour is used in forensics to show latent fingerprints (it bonds to the grease deposits) which is why it is best avoided for clear parts unless they are 100% clean. 

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Thanks @John_W, that's an interesting insight into the alternative uses. 

 

Thanks everyone for the tips, I'm ordering myself an alternative glue for my next attempts, it may get a debut on the Lancaster windows, but it'll be ready for the next car as well.

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I use Microscale Crystal Klear for fixing car glazing etc, or Resin-W wood glue in the past!

 

That said, the “proper” car modelers* in my club use CA to fix their glazing.  But this isn’t bog-common superglue from Loctite or Poundland.  It’s BSI (Bob Smith Industries) Gold, which is meant for fixing canopies etc, and (I presume) works without giving off CA fumes.  I believe it’s also marginally thicker and slightly slower than standard Superglues.  BSI Gold Is available here and some other places in the UK.  Not cheap though!
 

* the sort who use instant death (aka 2k clear) to gloss their car models before polishing them with Tamiya unobtainium compound! 🤣

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I would be jumping for joy if I got something as nice as this one completed in a mere ten days.  You`ve inspired me to try a car now.  I like this one!!!! 

:goodjob:

 

Mike

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6 minutes ago, Sky Keg said:

I would be jumping for joy if I got something as nice as this one completed in a mere ten days.  You`ve inspired me to try a car now.  I like this one!!!! 

:goodjob:

 

Mike

 

Thanks Mike, I enjoyed the car a lot, well worth a go and a nice change from all the military stuff I normally build 😁

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Nice bug, looks fantastic in standard form, lovely colour too. I use Rocket glue in the green labelled bottle as it dries clear and doesn't fog glazing. 

Also coating the glazing in klear or Future depending on where you are in the world stops the fogging too.

 

Great work

Chris

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