Airfix 1:43 Jaguar E-Type Coupe (with 3D-Printed RHD conversion dashboard)

[dr_gn]

So here we go again. Another Airfix kit started, to join two stalled builds. This model was released last year, and is a starter set:



It's a very simple kerbside model with few parts and limited mechanical detail, although it would be unfair to expect more for under £15:


 

 

The interior is OK, again fine for the price. The wheels are a focal point of most car models, and the kit items are pretty crude. I got some aftermarket items from the Telford show:

The body shape looks excellent - far better than the rather odd box-art profile would imply. I am a bit of an E-Type aficianado, and to me this is one of the few scale models of the E-Type that captures the shape well:



It has the same old error that afflicts many E-Type models, in that it's badged as a 4.2 litre, but has 3.8 litre seats. (anyone wanting to model a 3.8 could simply cut off the "4.2 Litre" and "E-Type" bits of the rear hatch decal.) The decals are OK, but it's a shame the four centre instruments aren't included, and a chequered horn-push button:

I believe the speedometer and tachometer decals are shown placed the wrong way around in the instructions too. Which brings us to the dashboard. Why Airfix decided to use a left-hand drive dashboard on a model of the undisputed king of classic British sports cars is beyond me. Presumably it's some attempt to appeal to the American market. Not a problem these days though: I took orthographic photographs of the kit dashboard, and imported them into Fusion 360 to get the interface features. I imported some canvases of the actual dashboard, and re-modelled it including modifications such as a more realistically contoured crash pad, better toggle and rotary switch details, a heated rear screen switch & lamp, and radio speakers either side of the centre console. Here's the CAD WiP:



Here it is with supports added (and other DfM considerations taken into account) as it was straight off the printer:



Here it is with the supports removed, and primed, compared with the original:



This slots nicely into place, and just needs the original pedals adding, and the steering wheel. I might also CAD up an indicator stalk and housing at some point:







Since I want to model a 1964 4.2 litre car, I'll need to CAD up some replacement seats. I'll also make some door furniture and a more refined gear lever.

Edited January 26, 2023 by dr_gn
Clarified title.

[Fnick]

I did this one a few months ago when it came out. Mine was OOB. Looking forward to your improvements. If your dash is anything to go by they will be excellent! What colour scheme do you have in mind?

 

Nick

[cmatthewbacon]

That dash looks fantastic… puts my old school conversion to shame. The Motobitz wheels are a very good value upgrade, I reckon. And completely agree on the shape… it’s one of the best renditions I’ve seen. I can’t think of any other kit in any scale that gets the coupe shape right.

best,

M.

[dr_gn]

52 minutes ago, cmatthewbacon said:

That dash looks fantastic… puts my old school conversion to shame. The Motobitz wheels are a very good value upgrade, I reckon. And completely agree on the shape… it’s one of the best renditions I’ve seen. I can’t think of any other kit in any scale that gets the coupe shape right.

best,

M.

 

Thanks. Yep, I was surprised that when I asked the Motobitz guy about wheels, he immediately fished them out. Complete no-brainer to get them for this kit, and would probably fit other models like a DB5 or whatever.

[dbostream]

Excellent work so far. Will you do something about the seam under the door or leave it? I still haven't decided what I will do when I get the kit maybe it is not worth the trouble.

[Fastcat]

Hello dbostream,

                                My solution in the past with all undercut bodies like the Jaguar, although fairly drastic, is to separate the sills from the undertray with a razor saw. Then fix them to the upper body. The same applies to the front underside and rear panels. This gives a one piece body for spraying and the interior and undertray can be finished and added at the end when the body has dried. It gives a result more like a normal kit would be made where the moulder wouldn't be faced with such a severely undercut body. The same technique applies to the D Type Jaguar and XK SS.

 

Dave

[klubman01]

That looks good.  Love the wheels and instrument panel.  They've already raised the model to the next level.

Trevor 

[dr_gn]

Thanks guys. I’ll definitely not be leaving the sill joint. I’d not considered how to deal with it yet, but Fastcat’s idea seems very good; I wanted to avoid masking the windows, and that method solves it.

 

I need some thin, fine-grain chrome paint for it to use in the airbrush - what do you guys use? Molotow?

 

Also, do you have a source for custom number plate decals? I need someone who can print silver.
 

Cheers!

[Fnick]

I recently used greenstuffworld chrome. Works really well and more importantly can be handled after drying with no ill effects. You can get an airbrush ready bottle. 

 

Nick

Edited January 27, 2023 by Fnick

[JamesP]

53 minutes ago, dr_gn said:

 

Also, do you have a source for custom number plate decals? I need someone who can print silver.
 

Cheers!

MotoBitz who made the wheels also do silver number plate decals - not sure they do them in 1/43. Alternatively spray the plate silver and then print the black background as a decal when with number left clear. 

[dr_gn]

34 minutes ago, Fnick said:

I recently used greenstuffworld chrome. Works really well and more importantly can be handled after drying with no ill effects. You can get an airbrush ready bottle. 

 

Nick

 

Thanks Nick.

[dr_gn]

8 minutes ago, JamesP said:

MotoBitz who made the wheels also do silver number plate decals - not sure they do them in 1/43. Alternatively spray the plate silver and then print the black background as a decal when with number left clear. 

 

Thanks James. Yes, looks like they do silver letters in 1:43. I guess I could cut out some black decal backgrounds, seal them with Klear, then apply the letters, then Klear, then try and apply the whole lot to the model. Would be nice to just get the whole thing printed to apply as one - I can imagine alignment will be very difficult.

[dbostream]

1 hour ago, dr_gn said:

Thanks guys. I’ll definitely not be leaving the sill joint. I’d not considered how to deal with it yet, but Fastcat’s idea seems very good; I wanted to avoid masking the windows, and that method solves it.

Great then I leave it to you to find the best solution then I will copy it for my build.  

[klubman01]

5 hours ago, dr_gn said:

Also, do you have a source for custom number plate decals? I need someone who can print silver.
 

Cheers!

Virage do 1/43 number plates, and silver numbers/letters and black backgrounds are included - VIR134 from GPM.

Trevor

[cmatthewbacon]

Green Stuff World chrome is good. I did my wheels with AK Super Bright Aluminium lacquer over black primer, but Tamiya TS Gloss Black as a base works better I disovered on Mabel. Multiple mist coats is the answer. For the plates, black plates printed on clear decal paper, overlaid on an appropriately-sized BMF rectangle on the body has worked well for me in the past… you can have a margin of clear around the black which ensures it lays down properly, and eliminates the danger of water ingress between the clear coat and paper at the cut edges bleeding the ink…

Best,

M.

[dr_gn]

12 hours ago, cmatthewbacon said:

Green Stuff World chrome is good. I did my wheels with AK Super Bright Aluminium lacquer over black primer, but Tamiya TS Gloss Black as a base works better I disovered on Mabel. Multiple mist coats is the answer. For the plates, black plates printed on clear decal paper, overlaid on an appropriately-sized BMF rectangle on the body has worked well for me in the past… you can have a margin of clear around the black which ensures it lays down properly, and eliminates the danger of water ingress between the clear coat and paper at the cut edges bleeding the ink…

Best,

M.

 

Thanks M.

 

I've tried printing my own decals in the past with "OK-ish" results.

 

I've got a Canon MG7751 colour inkjet printer - not sure that the resolution would be enough for 1:43? I never seemed to be able to get the print settings just right for fine work on decal paper.

 

What paper do you use? Any tips for settings?

 

Cheers!

[mbdesignart]

Whilst at Telford you should have asked the wheel seller about 1/43 number plate decals. 🙄 Excellent work on the dashboard.

[dr_gn]

On 1/29/2023 at 10:48 AM, mbdesignart said:

Whilst at Telford you should have asked the wheel seller about 1/43 number plate decals. 🙄 Excellent work on the dashboard.

 

Thanks!

 

I suppose I should have asked, but at this rate I'll be able to ask you this year! As mentioned though, I really don't want to trust my eyes for alignment of the letters and numbers - I want something aligned and printed as one.

 

For anyone wanting to know which wheels to get for this kit, these are they:

 

[Brandy]

Lovely dash! I have a similar project at some point in the future - modelling my old MGB Roadster which was a '72, from a kit based on a '68.

 

Could be fun...

 

BTW shouldn't the 4.2 dash have rocker switches instead of toggles?

 

Ian

[dr_gn]

14 minutes ago, Brandy said:

Lovely dash! I have a similar project at some point in the future - modelling my old MGB Roadster which was a '72, from a kit based on a '68.

 

Could be fun...

 

BTW shouldn't the 4.2 dash have rocker switches instead of toggles?

 

Ian

Thanks Ian.

 

The rocker switches were introduced part way into Series 1 1/2 production between 1967 and 1968.

 

This model will be of a 1964, Series 1, 4.2 car. The Series 1 1/2 cars had un-covered headlamps, which would be the most obvious of the give-aways for this kit not being a Series 1 1/2.

[dr_gn]

On 1/26/2023 at 9:57 PM, Fnick said:

I did this one a few months ago when it came out. Mine was OOB. Looking forward to your improvements. If your dash is anything to go by they will be excellent! What colour scheme do you have in mind?

 

Nick

Thanks Nick.

 

Dark blue, with dark red interior.

[Noel Smith]

This E Type looks good, particularly with the 3D printed wires.

I cannot get my head around why kit manufacturers do not offer both LH and RH dashboards on kerb side models though.

[dr_gn]

On 2/1/2023 at 10:26 PM, Noel Smith said:

This E Type looks good, particularly with the 3D printed wires.

I cannot get my head around why kit manufacturers do not offer both LH and RH dashboards on kerb side models though.

In this case, I assume it’s cost. 

I can’t see why they couldn’t have made the dash top separate, and had a dashboard piece that was LHD on one side, and RHD on the other. Just switch it around depending what you want.

[k5054nz]

Excellent solution, and I'm glad to see the DB5 shown at Nuremberg was RHD!