1/72 DH-9A KP vs Clear Prop

[hsr]

We seem to be blessed with 2 1/72  modern kits of the DH-9A. Anyone care to compare and contrast the 2? Anyone built either?

[Paul Thompson]

Having seen photos of both, IMO no contest, I'd go for the Clear Prop kit. OTOH it costs a lot more, but you get what you pay for. I've put my (wife's) money where my mouth is andered ordered one, already en-route. They only just arrived at Hannants so I suspect no-one over here will have built one yet. I expect the KP kit will build up okay, but I'm also sure the decals will need replacing. Accuracy wise, the KP is based on an older kit (CMR, 2008) so will be as accurate or otherwise as that one was, but with the benefit that most people prefer to work with plastic rather than resin. Not saying the CMR kit isn't okay, they usually are pretty good, I just don't have one to check over.

 

 

Paul.

[KITCAT]

I've kept my powder dry and waited for the Clear Prop offering because of their past performance. so it's wait and see.

[Eddie_C96]

On 25/01/2023 at 14:29, Paul Thompson said:

I'd go for the Clear Prop kit. OTOH it costs a lot more,

 

I just picked up the CP Polikarpov R-1 from H at 16-50 vs. 14.99 or 13.49 for KP. I would not qualify this as a significant difference in price

[Paul Thompson]

6 hours ago, Eddie_C96 said:

 

I just picked up the CP Polikarpov R-1 from H at 16-50 vs. 14.99 or 13.49 for KP. I would not qualify this as a significant difference in price

Here we pay £17.99 for the KP, or £25.80 for the Clear Prop kit. That's from Hannants and is the advanced version, but is also the only one on offer here.

 

Paul.

[Eddie_C96]

13 hours ago, Paul Thompson said:

Here we pay £17.99 for the KP, or £25.80 for the Clear Prop kit. That's from Hannants and is the advanced version, but is also the only one on offer here.

 

Paul.

I was talking about Hannants - do not see the Clear Prop DH9A boxing at mom, but the R1 in advanced version is at 16.50

Edited February 9, 2023 by Eddie_C96

[Paul Thompson]

24 minutes ago, Eddie_C96 said:

I was talking about Hannants - do not see the Clear Prop DH9A boxing at mom, but the R1 in advanced version is at 16.50

https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/CP72027?result-token=VLaiJ

 

Paul.

[Eddie_C96]

TY, missed this one - actually not so sure about this version, the fabric imitation on the fuselage seems way too exaggerated

[Torbjorn]

I’m holding it now (well, a couple of minutes ago). Although I do not have the KP Ninak, I have several other recent Great war offerings and compared to those the Clear Prop detail and crispness are superior to KP, another league I would say. This does not mean that the KP kits are bad - but this is maybe the best Great war kit I’ve seen in this scale.

 

The fabric effect is not exaggerated in the sense that it certainly can look like that - I’ve seen examples - but maybe not straight from the workshop. You can also fill it with some plastic goo to reduce the effect if you so please.

[hsr]

I ordered the Clear Prop and got it the other day. It looks really good in the box but, the proof will be in the building.

 

Thanks all. 

[Paul Thompson]

Starting mine tomorrow for a review in the next Great War SIG newsletter (unless I screw it up, which can happen but usually doesn't). Anything noteworthy I'll let you know. 

 

Paul.

[RichieW]

10 hours ago, Paul Thompson said:

Starting mine tomorrow for a review in the next Great War SIG newsletter (unless I screw it up, which can happen but usually doesn't). Anything noteworthy I'll let you know. 

 

Paul.

I'm looking forward to reading that article in Cher Ami. 

 

Richie

[DaddyO]

I bought the KP version last year at a show for not much and compared to some of their kits it looks quite nice (Having tried 3 others I've ended up spending an awful lot of time refining and replacing, but that's just me perhaps)

 

As Paul mentioned the decals look quite on the sheet, but the DH5 ones just didn't behave well at all so I'll be looking for replacements without even trying to use them. Add the cost of these to the cost of the kit and you'll be in the same ballpark cost-wise 😉

 

Look forward to Paul's review . . . .

[Paul Thompson]

Nice to know at least a couple of people read what I write.  🙂

 

I keep banging on though about how I'm not trying to assasinate KP, as such, because indeed some of their efforts are quite good. I just find it such a shame that they do the spoiling the ship for a happ'worth of tar but by producing  decal sheets that are not always but disturbingly often not just substandard but thoroughly rotten. I've just had similiar issues with another of their repops which wasn't ww1 (doesn't matter which, it came out during the period that the WW1 repops have been a thing). It's salt in the wound that multiple editions with many interesting colour schemes seems to be their main selling point. In fact the kits are cheap enough that I'd buy more of them if the decals were reliable, although the degree of lower quality moulding for less of our money is also a deciding factor. The price is creeping up, but not the quality (although price increases are a can of worms and I don't necessarily blame the manufacturer for it).

 

Which is threaddrifting, although when there are two simultaneous releases of a long wanted subject perhaps inevitable. I'd say they're not actually competing with each other but whether by design or accident are aimed at different parts of an admittedly tiny market, i.e those not too bothered by the need to fettle (who I'm normally one of) especially if it saves dosh, and those who at least now and then like something with a lot of detail, potential, and (we hope) accuracy.

 

I've had another good look at the Clear Prop decals and haven't changed my mind, I think the choice of blue for the national markings is very unfortunate. They look well printed but far too light even if the aircraft had survived long enough for much fading. They be easy to replace and there are even more alternatives now than when this thread first opened with some upcoming sets of cockades and rudder stripe sections in 1/72nd and other scales which look good over the Internet but I've yet to get any so fingers crossed. Don't ask the name of the publisher, I've just come back from a weekend blowing my brain down a flute in County Clare and have yet to pick up and stuff back in my skull all the little grey cells. The rest of the Clear Prop decals still look as if they should be fine to me, although I've yet to use any produced by them. Anyway, another cup of coffee and I'll get started with the review. The editor of Cher Ami sent out an email a day or two ago with a deadline of the beginning of April for copy for the next issue, Any issues with the kit I'll point out here as I find them since it may influence people. Not a build thread, that will be what the finished article amounts to, plus I still find it slightly clunky using Flickr as a photo host and want to save that effort for the one group build I signed up to this year.

 

Paul.

[Paul Thompson]

I said I wouldn't pollute this thread with a build log, but mention anything I thought notable while building both kits for review, so here we are. Waffle mode on.

 

     Both kits have reached the painting stage, prior to attaching the flying surfaces to the fuselage. As build experiences they're on different planets,aimed at (or at least suited for) totally different types of builder. The KP kit is very limited run when it comes to fit and engineering, the instructions are little modified from the CMR kit, yet many of the parts are, as is their method of attachment, the result being that much of the instructions onl;y have a loose bearing on the kit, and placing internal components like control sticks and seats can only be achieved accurately with reference to plans or photos of the real thing, and ideally some minor scratchbuilding. Oh, and there are no rudder bars. And 95% of the colour callouts are plain wrong. Also, remember that there is a later boxing but the assembly instructions cover both types, so don't attach the spare wheel and additional radiator supplied.  You're instructed to add a couple of in reality non-existant control horns to the wings. Don't. The aileron controls are more like levers on the real thing, and moulded in situ on the KP kit (clunky but acceptable if you don't want to pose the ailerons).  Things like the Scarff ring are shown built up with little sense of how you get there. No suprise really because apart from the circular bit and an incorrectly shaped Lewis mount the bits were PE in the CMR kit, ignored by KP so you have to make some of it yourself or use aftermarket parts.  Finally, for accuracy you need to make a new set of inner interplane struts because those in the kit should be much wider than the outer ones, but aren't. This is also true of the Clear Prop kit.  Final bit of negativity, as I expected the decals are very poor. Also strange. The rear fuselage has some holes in it leading up to the one that allows access to the end of the rudder post and gubbins inside, and these are moulded well enough. However the decal sheet gives you some white circles to put in the holes, to represent the holes. Errrrr.....................   No. An indication of the decal quality - I've used the rudder stripes. They're smaller than the rudder, and have a white edge all the way around. They break up easily, don't stick well, have enormous carrier film edges, and don't respond to Micro set and/or Sol. Colours are okay, if a little pixelated.

 

     That doesn't sound very good but it's a perfectly decent kit in most respects, and if the only DH9a available I wouldn't be so picky.  Needs to be half the price of the Clear Prop kit if thinking in dosh terms to reflect the quality.

 

     OTOH, the Clear Prop kit is better designed and fits better, and the surface and interior detail is much more refined and complete. Downside is that it needs much more care to pull it together, to a somewhat nerve-wracking extent, but the final result will be a league ahead of the KP kit without needing scratchbuilding or replacement of parts. Except one baffling omission, given the presence of the nice PE set - no seat belts. KP give a weird generic pattern of lapbelt as decals that break up once dipped in water. Clear Prop seem to have overlooked them completely. Easy to make two pairs of wide fabric and leather lapbelts from tape, paint and sprue, but irritating to have to. The correct pattern can be found in the online WingNuts instruction maual for their kit, as well as showing you how they're attached. Eduard produce some that are 80% close enough.

 

    One thing you can't tell without actually building, how the plastic works. The KP plastic is a little soft and tends to smear a bit rather than sand cleanly, and is moulded with a lot of small scale but well defined flash on the small parts. Small parts really are a bit clunky but some of the larger ones are quite nice. Normal limited run stuff, part of the usual territory.  Ignore the box 'new tool' claim. More accurate to say a retool and conversion of an older (the CMR resin) kit, with some bits missing.  OTOH although the Clear Prop plastic is produced to a much higher standard and needs much less preparation, my example at least is very brittle, making removal of the finer parts quite a heart in mouth event, despite the petite sprue gates. Also short shot in a couple of places, notably lacking half of one interplane strut, but I'm replacing 4 of them anyway so turns out okay.

 

    As yet I can't comment on strut lengths or accuracy of location positioning, but since the deadline for the review is less than 2 weeks I'll know soon enough, and drop a couple of photos in the ready for inspection section on Britmodeller. But so far I'd have to say that there are good reasons to buy either kit, but for accuracy I'd go with the Clear Prop one, although the ambition of the designers slightly exceeds the capabilities of the mould maker. A halfway decent modeller with WW1 kit experience shouldn't have too much trouble with what I'd class as a very high end limited run kit.  The KP kit is an update of a very good resin kit, poorly and incompletely implemented , which annoys because where they've made an effort you can see that they can do much better, and it is generally better implemented than some others of their WW1 stuff. I'd not have minded the simplified bits if they'd redrawn the instructions to show the actual shapes. Also would have been nice if they'd proof read a bit better and caught the transposing of the numbers on virtually everything that is handed. And the decals, less said about them the better.

 

    Small warning, if you're new to WW1 modelling and expect a WNW experience, you won't like either kit. If you know what you're doing, Clear Prop gives very good material which could be worked up to a very high standard with little extra effort, but although better than most mainstream kits it still isn't up to the foolproofedness standards of WNW. The KP kit could be worked up to look as good as the other one, but with a great deal of work. Still way ahead of even the later Pegasus kits, and certainly buildable, but if Clear Prop was Tamiya then this would be Frog.

 

    Waffle mode off.

 

Paul.

[hsr]

Thanks. Very thorough and helpful. 

[Paul Thompson]

7 hours ago, hsr said:

Thanks. Very thorough and helpful. 

I'm nothing if not pedantic.

 

Paul.

[Brandy]

Interesting comparison, although I won't be buying either as I bought the CMR resin kit when it came out. 

 

Since my next project (for the DH group build) is the Blue Rider DH9 conversion for the Airfix DH4 I would be happy with either of the above levels of quality! 😁

 

Ian

[Paul Thompson]

I've just finished the review, which you'll be able to find when the next Cher Ami comes out. I said I'd make a new post in Ready For Inspection, but on second tought it may be more sensible to tack it on here since it attempts to answer the original intent of comparing the kits.  Anyway, here's a photo of the finished models. The Maquette/Model Russia/Dapol kit is there just for comparison - basically this awful thing was your best bet until the new kits came along.

 

 

 

The one on the left is the KP kit with it's own markings. Centre is the Clear Prop! kit , also in it's own markings. The Maquette kit has Clear Prop! individual markings and Blue Rider national insignia.

 

The best kit is by Clear Prop!, hands down. The KP kit is okay but there are lots of bits missing due to inattention when converting it from the CMR original. The instructions are a bit of a joke because most of the drawings are based on CMR parts, like the seats that were originally PE. The KP pilot's seat is a solid lump. The camera, I don't know, it seems to be inside out. Many parts are made differently than suggested, handed parts have the numbers reversed, some parts shown installed don't exist (scarff ring elevating arms, windshileds, fuel pump props, that sort of thing). And the decals are a joke. Out of register, pixelated, a coloured fringe around the edges of some images, brittle, unresponsive to setting solutions,  huge carrier film, and break up when you slide them off the paper. I've also noticed that despite being sealed in the cockades are already lifting off, 2 days after they dried (they're also too small by a bit, and the rudder flash is tiny).  The sheet is also fairly minimal - very few stencils, no instrument faces, and no help with the wheel cover decorations. In contrast, the Clear Prop! decals work beautifully, have full instrument and stencilling data, Palmer Cord Tyre markings that go on without folding, and are generally my best new friend of the month. The only downside is the blue being too light, but now I've used them it isn't quite as bad as I'd expected.

 

The only major accuracy issue with the KP kit is a fuselage that is 1.7mm too narrow at the observer's station (measured with vernier callipers and compared to the Windsock plans) , which isn't too obvious until you try to replace the partial Scarff ring. Most aftermarket sets are the right size so look wrong dangling over the fuselage sides too far. In the picture I've white glued an Aeroclub (I think) white metal set from the Libramodels Bristol F2b, which is slighly undersized so works well here.

 

The Clear Prop! kit is much harder to build due to being much more complete (and therefore more complex), and the parts breakdown (fuselage made of separate sides to which you add several panels to make up top and bottom). But the parts fit well, which helps. There are a few odd omissions, notably the under tailplane struts, seatbelts, and the fuel pipes to the gravity tank.  While being soft and easy to sand, the plastic is extremely brittle. My lower wing fell in half at the wing root cutout, and all I was doing was painting it. Generally though it doesn't have too much affect if you're very careful. I was wondering if it was due to the war impacting the quality of available plastic.

 

Both kits need the inner interplane struts differentiating from the outer. They should be much thicker. For the KP kit this means new inners, for Clear Prop the struts are about the right size for the inners, so just make narrower outers.

 

To be honest, apart from the instruction sheet and decals, the KP kit is perfectly decent. Built OOB it isn't bad, and refining it shouldn't be hard. The Clear Prop! kit is much better and has good instructions and an excellent decals sheet, but you have to approach it with a lot more care. OOB though it's streets ahead of the KP kit, while there still being room for refinement. As to value, I got both kits from Hannants. The KP kit was £5.00 cheaper, which given the awful decal sheet puts them about equal in effective cost. That makes it a looser money-wise. If it was just a few quid less or had a decent decal sheet I'd think it well priced. For what you get, the Clear Prop! kit is well worth the £23.00 I paid when it was first released. Depends on what you want though. Like I said, the KP kit is pretty decent, so if you can get one for less than go for it. It delivers less than Clear Prop! but is easier to build and still ends up pretty good.

 

Since we started this Clear Prop! have brought out a decal sheet for the struts, wooden interior parts, and instrument panel. Haven't used it yet but looks promising. The fuselage framework is moulded lightly and fades out in places, making painting harder. This should look better if sized correctly. Not so sure about the struts yet. The other thing is a PE set labeled 'control horns and ports'. This sort of thing always triggers me because DH9as use RAFwires, not cables, and while there are a few turnbuckles on the control lines and internal bracing, that's your lot. The 'ports' are the cast bits on the real thing to which the struts fit, and the rigging is fixed to. Nice idea, but the holes in the PE are too small for the shallow nubs at the ends of the struts, so only useful if you fancy drilling out the nubs and putting in proper, narrower pins. I've gut the turnbuckles in half and used them on one kit as the connectors you get on the end of RAFwires but not worth the effort really. So I'd avoid those.

 

 

All in my humble and often misguided opinion, of course.

 

Paul.

[RichieW]

10 hours ago, Paul Thompson said:

All in my humble and often misguided opinion, of course.

Your humble and often misguided opinion is most welcome. I'm looking forward to reading the review in Cher Ami.

 

Richie

[Brandy]

Interesting review, thanks. I'm also looking forward to seeing the report in Cher Ami.

 

Ian

[TheKinksFan]

Thank you for the review @Paul Thompson. I received my Clear Prop kit this week, and I just ordered the KP "DH.9a over Iraq" boxing. That's bad news that the decals are so awful. That along with poor instructions is the worst thing about KP/AZ kits, and most short run kits in general. It's hard to understand this unprofessionalism and sloppiness, and in this regard KP/AZ is one of the worst offenders. Clear Prop has really put effort making their instructions as high quality as their kits. I wish other Ukrainian manufacturers would follow suit. The decals that Clear Prop uses are from Decograph, there's an interview with Vitali Nazarov from that company in the latest Models from Ukraine podcast. I haven't yet listened to the episode.

 

I am building a Roden 1/72 Sopwith Camel right now, and the top wing is on, so the worst is over. I had to paint the markings as the decals are absolutely horrendous. I chose the Roy Brown scheme as it doesn't have any numbers or letters. It was impossible to get everything centered so that the blue wide ring and the white thin outer ring were symmetrical. And off course the red circles are also a bit off-centre. But from a distance everything looks acceptable. I wonder if there is a method that would guarantee that everything is centered. I've got vinyl insignia masks for Hurricane and Spitfire from Pmask, but they probably don't have the right kind of roundels. There's not much aftermarket decals for WWI aircraft in 1/72. Printscale decals are very expensive nowadays and their quality is questionable. There's a roundel set from AIMS, but Hannant's doesn't have yet it in stock. Do you have any recommendations for decals? I have Sopwith 2F1 boxing in the stash. I just started a Roden 1/72 Pfalz D.IIIa, decals don't look so bad, so I hope they are usable. Roden 1/72 Nieuport 27 and S.E.5a (Wolseley Viper) will be sent next week, the Nieuport is a later release, and the decals are probably OK, but the S.E5a will be a problem. a Printscale decal sheet would cost 17€, almost twice as much as the kit.

That Cher Ami newsletter is a great source of information & entertainment, I didn't know it existed before this.

 

[Paul Thompson]

12 minutes ago, TheKinksFan said:

 

 

I am building a Roden 1/72 Sopwith Camel right now, and the top wing is on, so the worst is over. I had to paint the markings as the decals are absolutely horrendous. I chose the Roy Brown scheme as it doesn't have any numbers or letters. It was impossible to get everything centered so that the blue wide ring and the white thin outer ring were symmetrical. And off course the red circles are also a bit off-centre. But from a distance everything looks acceptable. I wonder if there is a method that would guarantee that everything is centered. I've got vinyl insignia masks for Hurricane and Spitfire from Pmask, but they probably don't have the right kind of roundels. There's not much aftermarket decals for WWI aircraft in 1/72. Printscale decals are very expensive nowadays and their quality is questionable. There's a roundel set from AIMS, but Hannant's doesn't have yet it in stock. Do you have any recommendations for decals? I have Sopwith 2F1 boxing in the stash. I just started a Roden 1/72 Pfalz D.IIIa, decals don't look so bad, so I hope they are usable. Roden 1/72 Nieuport 27 and S.E.5a (Wolseley Viper) will be sent next week, the Nieuport is a later release, and the decals are probably OK, but the S.E5a will be a problem. a Printscale decal sheet would cost 17€, almost twice as much as the kit.

 

It's worth trying out Roden decals from the same period that they released the Camels before binning them, because I had one where the sheet was spot on prefect. I know, shock, horror, and really wild things. How one sheet can be not just okay but fvery good, when their usual far is next to unuseable, is really weird. Still, you might, but probably won't, get lucky.

 

We're in a thin patch at the moment when it comes to WW1 national markings, in any scale and for any nation except German (where there are still decent aftermarket decals to be found).  I have a large stock of Almark, Blue Rider and Pegasus decals which cover most of my 1/72nd needs. Most of those I got from the Aviation Megastore, but a quick search now shows all the cocade sets out of stock, and Freightdog don't currently have any Pegasus cockades in their online catalogue either. Hannants still have Almark German and French markings - probably not cheap postage to Finland but at least the sets are only £3.00 each. A friend  recently gove me the last British WW1 marking sheets Hannants been selling off cheap, some of which I've used, and for old sets they work quite well still with no tendency to break up, so if you find any on Ebay or the like then it's worth  having a go. French cockades/rudder stripes seem to come in either too light or too dark shades of red, and Almarks and Blue Rider go for the darker interpretation, FWIW. The British markings are all much of a muchness.

 

I've yet to see them but there are new decals on the way - I've mentioned them on this forum before but IIRC had already forgotten the manufacturer. I haven't the time to check now but I think they were mentioned in Cher Ami two or three issues back. I'll be meeting some of the Great War SIG members at the Scottish Nationals, end of the month, and ask if there's anything on the horizon. With a pen and piece of paper to hand so I don't have to rely on the remaining little grey cell.

 

Paul.

 

[TheKinksFan]

On 14/04/2023 at 13:04, Paul Thompson said:

It's worth trying out Roden decals from the same period that they released the Camels before binning them, because I had one where the sheet was spot on prefect. I know, shock, horror, and really wild things. How one sheet can be not just okay but fvery good, when their usual far is next to unuseable, is really weird. Still, you might, but probably won't, get lucky.

 

We're in a thin patch at the moment when it comes to WW1 national markings, in any scale and for any nation except German (where there are still decent aftermarket decals to be found).  I have a large stock of Almark, Blue Rider and Pegasus decals which cover most of my 1/72nd needs. Most of those I got from the Aviation Megastore, but a quick search now shows all the cocade sets out of stock, and Freightdog don't currently have any Pegasus cockades in their online catalogue either. Hannants still have Almark German and French markings - probably not cheap postage to Finland but at least the sets are only £3.00 each. A friend  recently gove me the last British WW1 marking sheets Hannants been selling off cheap, some of which I've used, and for old sets they work quite well still with no tendency to break up, so if you find any on Ebay or the like then it's worth  having a go. French cockades/rudder stripes seem to come in either too light or too dark shades of red, and Almarks and Blue Rider go for the darker interpretation, FWIW. The British markings are all much of a muchness.

 

I've yet to see them but there are new decals on the way - I've mentioned them on this forum before but IIRC had already forgotten the manufacturer. I haven't the time to check now but I think they were mentioned in Cher Ami two or three issues back. I'll be meeting some of the Great War SIG members at the Scottish Nationals, end of the month, and ask if there's anything on the horizon. With a pen and piece of paper to hand so I don't have to rely on the remaining little grey cell.

 

Paul.

It is truly mysterious that one kit can have excellent decals and the others have awful ones. Only explanation I can think of is that they have later packaged more boxes, and everything else is totally similar, the box & instructions, only the decals are different. I just noticed that my Amodel 1/72 DH60g has new good looking decals, there's a Decograph logo. But this very same boxing used to have awful decals, I think they are Decograph decals too, but their old technology, before they had invented their own clear lacquer. I can't understand why only this Gipsy Moth has new replaced decals, as all the other Moths have awful ones, with light backing paper. Maybe the Gipsy Moth has sold more and they have had to package new boxes.

 

Thanks for the Almark tip, I'll probably get those sheets next time I order something from Hannant's. You are right, shipping is quite expensive, especially now that there's only the  tracked shipping option. I'll wait for the AIMS cockades to come in stock, and then order anything at once.I have used old Almark decals once, and they were surprisingly good. 

[Seahawk]

On 4/14/2023 at 10:33 AM, TheKinksFan said:

I am building a Roden 1/72 Sopwith Camel right now, and the top wing is on, so the worst is over. I had to paint the markings as the decals are absolutely horrendous. I chose the Roy Brown scheme as it doesn't have any numbers or letters. It was impossible to get everything centered so that the blue wide ring and the white thin outer ring were symmetrical. And off course the red circles are also a bit off-centre.

 

Very interesting and worthwhile thread: thanks in particular to @Paul Thompson.

 

Two or three years back I bought several Roden WW1 kits while I was in a WW1 phase (Camels, S.E.5s, Bristol F2Bs).  The transfers were some of the most spectacularly, even laughably out-of-register I have ever seen.  I emailed Roden about it and heard back promptly from a charming lady who was their International Sales Director asking for photos which I provided.  Soon afterwards I received replacements: as the covering e-mail admitted, they were still not perfect but the best she could find.  I found them within the bounds of acceptability and I appreciated the personal touch and customer care.  Haven't used any of them yet so no guarantees on that score. 

 

So it may be worth contacting Roden for replacements.  However NB this was all long before the current war.

 

Another route I tried back then was buying Airfix transfer sheets for the then recently discontinued reissues of the R.E.8, Bristol Fighter and Handley-Page O/400.  Nice transfers: 4 sheets came in at £14.  Airfix may still have some.

Edited April 16, 2023 by Seahawk