Jump to content

Gecko: WWII British Army closed cab 30 cwt Austin 4x2 GS Truck


Recommended Posts

Gecko's recent kit following on from their 'Katy' ambulance . . . 

I intend to start slowly as its been a while since I did any modelling . . . 

 

Austin-K2-1.jpg

 

Starting with the chassis as the norm and I also put the wheels together 

Austin-K2-2.jpg

 

An issue that a few others have mentioned is that on the same fret (C) there are parts that are numbered the same but it can be obvious which are the parts required for C16 & C51 although the parts numbered Da13 are nothing like the drawing and as such haven't found them yet !!

Austin-K2-3.jpg

 

More to come 

rgds

Ian

 

  • Like 10
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A few hours later . . .

IMG-5444.jpg

 

I have to confess to breaking certain small parts as I tried to snip them off so they havent been added in their entirety :hmmm:(not that you can spot them)

This being the first Gecko kit attempted I have to say that the sprue gates are quite heavy around the small and delicate parts such as the suspension dampers (Da15) & (C51 + 52) and securing brackets ( G10 +11 & Ka2). Cant imagine that many modellers would remove them without some damage ?? 

 

I shall start some painting this evening, particularly the engine, and think about assembling the rear body once I have figured out which option I shall run with 

.. .- -.

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know if it's possible with this kit but when removing delicate parts from the sprue on previous builds if it's possible I remove the section of sprue around the part with it still attached and then the part. I hope that made some sense!? Good luck with your build

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The problem is that snippers are compressing the plastic and this results in sideways forces that the thin parts cannot take.  This is especially true if you are using scissors type that also apply a twist.  Put down the snipper and use a small craft knife to trim away much of the gate until the join to the part becomes thin and can be cut through easily.  This does slow down the modelling but you will reduce the number of broken parts.

 

NIK122's tip will also help to make access easy. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

An example of how close-knit the parts are and the thick sprue fret . . .

IMG-5445.jpg

 

I have been using a scalpel knife to cut away but its difficult to cut the 'tab' as many parts have raised detail. 

I understand about cutting parts of the sprue away before detaching the smaller parts but I dont it possible at the start of the build with there being so many parts within the fret.

Still, I shall preserve and get there in the end, who doesnt like a challenge ?

( I have the Gecko Bedford MW in the stash aswell)

 

Ian 

.. .- -.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, one other method is to get a small razor saw - there are a range of different options you can find.  With its thin and narrow blade it can get between the runner and the part and will cut through the connection quicker than a knife blade.  A stouter saw can be used to cut the runners into shorter sections: though this initially will need careful judgement using the smaller saw to cut through the connections with the part, it  will help.  

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve not experienced Gecko kits before, but from what I’ve seen, the sprues do seem to present quite a challenge when it comes to small, delicate parts. Manufacturers need to recognise that good engineering doesn’t stop at the parts, and these (not inconsiderable) challenges are not the type that we model makers get excited about! I also imagine they’re made from the slightly rubbery plastic most kits seem to moulded in these days which will snap as soon as you look at it a bit too hard. Good luck - you seem to be doing really well so far!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1/72 can be quite close-packed too. I try and divide up the sprues and then use clippers whilst trying to hold the part to be removed. This also, hopefully, also avoids feeding the carpet monster.......................

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A decent pair of sprue cutters such as Xuron or meng makes a HUGE difference.  I cut as close as seems safe then whittle or shave the remaining raised edge with a Swann and Morton No 11 blade. Sadly the trick is to change the blade often :confused:

Rob

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Agreed that a good pair of clippers helps, but the key point is to avoid introducing any twist into the cut, and this is hard to avoid when when positioning is difficult and there is a broad joint.  Even when clipping through a thick piece of runner there can be a "bounce" as the cut succeeds which can introduce a twist into more fragile adjacent parts. 

 

I admit feeling a little bemused by the thought that a plastic can be both bendy ("slightly rubbery", or "soft" as others describe) and also so willing to break.  Normally it is the hard plastics that are brittle and a bendy plastic, well, bends with any stress.  Obviously there are limits in all things, which takes me back to my comment above on not introducing any twist or bend when cutting - a saw is particularly helpful here.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Having been working away from home, I am back doing a little bit at a time  . .. 

Austin-K2-Rearbody-2.jpg

 

I do tend to work sub-assemblies and to paint here and there, how you guys build an entire model and spray it is beyond me, however,

another view showing the interior of the rear body . . . 

Austin-K2-Rear-body.jpg

 

Next thing is the entire cab . . . 

rgds

Ian 

.. .- -.

Edited by Mancunian airman
  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Mancunian airman said:

how you guys build an entire model and spray it is beyond me

I can't get my head round this either - but those that work this way certainly achieve some fabulous results!

Your painting part by part is looking really good. Great to see this coming together.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is looking good and can see the logic in building/painting sub-assemblies.   

 

I've just build an entire kit and airbrushed it ..... wish I'd left some bits off!!  

 

Keith  😁

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As previously mentioned, I am building an RAF version of this lorry and one of the differences is that there was a 'hip-ring' on the cab roof for RAF vehicles . . . .

 

A small bit of square rod lifts the base flat off the cab roof . . .

IMG-0028.jpg

 

 a ring of 20 thou around it will give the impression its through the roof  . . .

IMG-0029.jpg

 

other bits done, the cab floor has been 'chipped', the load has been painted and the PE for the radiator has been put in place  . . .

IMG-E0030.jpg

 

 

I'm away again for a few day so until the next time . . . .

Thanks for looking in 

 

Ian 

Edited by Mancunian airman
  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 24/01/2023 at 16:13, Mancunian airman said:

A few hours later . . .

IMG-5444.jpg

 

I have to confess to breaking certain small parts as I tried to snip them off so they havent been added in their entirety :hmmm:(not that you can spot them)

This being the first Gecko kit attempted I have to say that the sprue gates are quite heavy around the small and delicate parts such as the suspension dampers (Da15) & (C51 + 52) and securing brackets ( G10 +11 & Ka2). Cant imagine that many modellers would remove them without some damage ?? 

 

I shall start some painting this evening, particularly the engine, and think about assembling the rear body once I have figured out which option I shall run with 

.. .- -.

Building a Gecko kit myself and i found the exact same problem. Lots of small parts with big sprue gates. 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I have been home for a couple of days and got a little bit more done.

I have secured the rear body as well as the cab . . . things such as the mirrors and headlights will be the last things going on but the next items will be the under body lockers and rear mudguards. 

It going to be an RAF version so I'm looking for a suitable camouflage scheme in keeping with the period for around May 1943  . . .

 

Austin-K2-RAF-20.jpg

 

Thanks for looking in 

Ian 

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...