Fw-190A-5, Kommodore Anton Mader, JG54 spring 1944

[81-er]

10 hours ago, The Spadgent said:

If it helps James. I use Sprue goo. (It shrinks) then I use it again but enough so it sits proud. After that dries. (A day or so) sand back. I have never hat it fall out as it kind of melts into the plastic.  How do you make your goo?  I add bits of plastic to an old TET bottle and use the brush to apply. Maybe that’s the trick as it melts the plastic as it applies? Either was good luck dear boy. I look forward to your next steps.

 

 Johnny.

Thanks Johnny. I've done exactly that, bits of Eduard sprue in some TET, applied with the brush to be proud of the surface, then sanded when dry. It's worked everywhere else I've used the same mix (several models as well as other parts of this one), there's just something VERY funky about these seams...

 

43 minutes ago, Retired Bob said:

You are not on your own James, I've had leading edge splits on my builds as well, perhaps it's the flexibility of the wings/plastic?  So far I've managed with TET quick drying glue and if theres need for gap filling, sprue goo spread with some more TET.  Hope you overcome your problems. 

That's the weird thing though, Bob, it's not a split. The joint is 100% solidly stuck together, I've just got a divet

 

James

[Retired Bob]

14 minutes ago, 81-er said:

That's the weird thing though, Bob, it's not a split. The joint is 100% solidly stuck together, I've just got a divet

I had that on my A-8 build, I put it down to the main spar being slightly warped.   But I managed to sort it with sprue goo in the end.

[The Spadgent]

Maybe it’s haunted? 👻

[81-er]

At this point, I'm not going to discount it...

 

James

[81-er]

Leaving the filler alone for a few days seems to have done the trick. I gently sanded it back yesterday and got an acceptable result. So there was nothing for it but to start making it all messy with paint (slightly messier than intended as my airbrush is playing up, it seems the seals are going). I was a little tempted to leave it like this, slap some decals on, and call it a WHIFF:

 

 

I persevered, however, and got the RLM 04 on:

 

 

 

It doesn’t show up all that well even in this closeup, but the mottling does show through a bit in reality:

 

 

The next step is going to be masking off the yellow areas, then painting the RLM 76 undersides.

 

James

[franky boy]

Nice work James. Pleased to see you’ve got the filler issue sorted. 
 

James

[modelling minion]

Nice work James, well done on getting the wing gap sorted.👍

 

🇺🇦

[81-er]

Thanks gents  I've got the seals ordered for my airbrush, so that should sort that issue as well

 

James

[Ray_W]

Great result particularly if you were battling a seal🦭 at the same time. Good to see you sorted out the leading edge depression.

 

Ray  

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

Nice to see this all sorted and moving forward. 

[81-er]

Thanks gents

 

James

[81-er]

Buckle up, this update has more ups and downs that a rollercoaster. My first job was masking up the RLM 04 ready to apply the RLM 76 on the undersides. I’d recently picked up some of this:

 

 

A vinyl tape like the Tamiya tape for curves (which I haven’t actually tried yet), so it seemed perfect for masking the tail band as I thought it would be easier to maintain a straight line with over the top of the fuselage. My first impression on getting it out of the packet was the sides were very sticky, which did make me wonder if I was doing the right thing. I did mask one edge of the band with it, but when I started the second my hands had become so sticky I decided this wasn’t working. I whipped the tape off, but it was too late. There was a lovely sticky line where the first strip had been! I had to resort to IPA to remove it, which took the paint with it:

 

 

Thankfully the Alclad primer isn’t affected by IPA! Suffice to say, that tape is now in the bin, and I advise you all stay clear of it!

 

However, despite that setback, I did get the RLM 76 on:

 

 

 

It is mottled, honest. I need to work out what it is about my current setup that’s causing my camera so many problems with focussing.

 

After that was good and dry, I started masking up ready for the upper camo colours. I was about 3/4 through that when the model slipped out of my hand and fell into the bin. It cracked the starboard wing root and opened up my favourite seam again. It’s been reglued, hopefully tonight I can get the paint repairs done so I can move on to the upper surfaces.

 

James

[Marklo]

Notwithstanding the first flight damage looks good.

 

I really don’t like Tamiya tape for curves. I usually either use kabukitape, masking tape or my favourite plumbers foil.

[Retired Bob]

Some days you just wish that you had not done any modelling and stayed looking at Britmodeller on your computer.  I think we've all been there. 

I'm sure you will be able to recover your FW James.

[81-er]

I'm sure I will as well. This one's definitely determined to fight me all the way though!

 

James

[Marklo]

Believe it or not mayonnaise is that most effective adhesive residue remover. 

[modelling minion]

1 hour ago, 81-er said:

I'm sure I will as well. This one's definitely determined to fight me all the way though!

 

James

You will get there mate don't worry.

I am having one of those "everything I touch turns to poo" moments modelling wise so I know what you mean.

 

🇺🇦

[jackroadkill]

9 hours ago, 81-er said:

It is mottled, honest. I need to work out what it is about my current setup that’s causing my camera so many problems with focussing

 

I once spent ages messing around trying to get a good photo of one of my builds (I think it was the Bf190T) and was tearing my hair out because I couldn't get a result.  My other half then pointed out that surely the main job of a camo scheme was to confuse the eye or the camera...

[jean]

11 hours ago, Retired Bob said:

Some days you just wish that you had not done any modelling and stayed looking at Britmodeller on your computer.  I think we've all been there. 

I'm sure you will be able to recover your FW James.

Oh so right you are!

 

JR

[jean]

Hi James,

 

so are you forgetting about the yellow fuselage band? Or are you waiting for your BP to drop to a reasonable level?

 

Cheers

 

JR

[Rob G]

12 hours ago, 81-er said:

It is mottled, honest. I need to work out what it is about my current setup that’s causing my camera so many problems with focussing.

 

What camera are you using? In this case, I'd guess that the lack of contrast in the mottled grey is the issue. Using the automatic autofocus setting, the camera is much more likely to pick the square lined mat over the grey aircraft as a focus target. Even the wooden jig has better contrast than the aircraft. You may need to select a different focus setting, to force the camera to focus where you want it to. 

[Ray_W]

22 hours ago, 81-er said:

Tamiya tape for curves (which I haven’t actually tried yet),

 

Hi James,

 

Put it down to some useful learning and there is nothing more satisfying than a great recovery. I find this is where you pick up very useful skills.

 

I use the genuine Tamiya "curve" tape (Nitto product branded Tamiya) and have not experienced the same problem. I do find it excellent for just your application - 1/48 fuselage bands. I have the 5 mm wide tape, typically slicing it to 1-2 mm for such work and then using regular tape to mask crudely over the curve tape. I have not had it leave a sticky residue (however, see last my comments below).

 

As a general comment, the use of the curve tape gets down to personal preference. Very tight bends are still a problem although I do use it with success for 1/48 Luftwaffe spinner spirals. I expect in smaller scales it may have limited utility.  Like all the tapes I keep it in a small Zip-loc bag so it does not pick up dust on its edge. The fresh cut edge produced by slicing also provides a nice clean mask edge.

 

Sorry about the IPA and this information after the fact. IPA will remove/damage the lacquers, alcohol aqueous acrylics and vinyl acrylics to varying degrees. Not so much enamels. Once painted I avoid any of the solvents unless I am certain there is no issue - lesson learned in the school of hard knocks - been there, done that.  First thing I try is to remove the sticky residue using the tape itself, second Blu-tac, and three very carefully with a solvent that I know will not react -  like naphtha on anything but enamels which it will go through. Typically, the first two steps solve the problem. Mechanical damage is always to be avoided although I might try a 3000 grit Tamiya sanding pad.

 

Something else I have discovered when using the alcohol based aqueous acrylics like Gunze Mr Aqueous Hobby Color and Tamiya X and XF thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner (MLT). The drying time is longer than with the lacquer paints (e.g. Mr Color) thinned with MLT. They are touch dry very quickly but take longer to deep dry. Meaning, if I apply masking tapes to soon you can get a reaction and mark on the surface. This can usually be hidden under subsequent varnish coats or with a mist coat of MLT. But, better to avoid and I prefer not mask until it has had a chance to dry and typically leave overnight. If it is something I want to get onto quickly, I'll let it alone for a couple of hours to largely flash off then use a hair dryer. Leave it again and then apply a de-tacked mask very lightly and remove soon after painting. 

 

Sorry I am late to the party. Seems everything is back on track. 

 

Ray

 

 

 

 

[81-er]

16 hours ago, Marklo said:

Believe it or not mayonnaise is that most effective adhesive residue remover. 

Thanks Mark, I'll try and remember that for next time.

 

14 hours ago, modelling minion said:

You will get there mate don't worry.

I am having one of those "everything I touch turns to poo" moments modelling wise so I know what you mean.

 

🇺🇦

The decal issue on the tank aside (which was largely my own fault for trying to put it somewhere there was obviously going to be an issue), this is the only thing currently on the bench that's causing problems. I'm hoping this is the last of it though!

 

10 hours ago, jean said:

so are you forgetting about the yellow fuselage band? Or are you waiting for your BP to drop to a reasonable level?

I've not forgotten it, I've just decided after having this issue that it'll be better for the workflow to come back and do it at the end 

 

13 hours ago, jackroadkill said:

I once spent ages messing around trying to get a good photo of one of my builds (I think it was the Bf190T) and was tearing my hair out because I couldn't get a result.  My other half then pointed out that surely the main job of a camo scheme was to confuse the eye or the camera...

 

10 hours ago, Rob G said:

What camera are you using? In this case, I'd guess that the lack of contrast in the mottled grey is the issue. Using the automatic autofocus setting, the camera is much more likely to pick the square lined mat over the grey aircraft as a focus target. Even the wooden jig has better contrast than the aircraft. You may need to select a different focus setting, to force the camera to focus where you want it to. 

Whatever's causing the problem is something to do with my new setup after the move. I've switched from a green to black cutting mat, and now have a completely different lighting setup. I have still got the green mat, so I might try sticking that down to work out if that's the problem or if it's the lighting

 

51 minutes ago, Ray_W said:

Hi James,

 

Put it down to some useful learning and there is nothing more satisfying than a great recovery. I find this is where you pick up very useful skills.

 

I use the genuine Tamiya "curve" tape (Nitto product branded Tamiya) and have not experienced the same problem. I do find it excellent for just your application - 1/48 fuselage bands. I have the 5 mm wide tape, typically slicing it to 1-2 mm for such work and then using regular tape to mask crudely over the curve tape. I have not had it leave a sticky residue (however, see last my comments below).

 

As a general comment, the use of the curve tape gets down to personal preference. Very tight bends are still a problem although I do use it with success for 1/48 Luftwaffe spinner spirals. I expect in smaller scales it may have limited utility.  Like all the tapes I keep it in a small Zip-loc bag so it does not pick up dust on its edge. The fresh cut edge produced by slicing also provides a nice clean mask edge.

 

Sorry about the IPA and this information after the fact. IPA will remove/damage the lacquers, alcohol aqueous acrylics and vinyl acrylics to varying degrees. Not so much enamels. Once painted I avoid any of the solvents unless I am certain there is no issue - lesson learned in the school of hard knocks - been there, done that.  First thing I try is to remove the sticky residue using the tape itself, second Blu-tac, and three very carefully with a solvent that I know will not react -  like naphtha on anything but enamels which it will go through. Typically, the first two steps solve the problem. Mechanical damage is always to be avoided although I might try a 3000 grit Tamiya sanding pad.

 

Something else I have discovered when using the alcohol based aqueous acrylics like Gunze Mr Aqueous Hobby Color and Tamiya X and XF thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner (MLT). The drying time is longer than with the lacquer paints (e.g. Mr Color) thinned with MLT. They are touch dry very quickly but take longer to deep dry. Meaning, if I apply masking tapes to soon you can get a reaction and mark on the surface. This can usually be hidden under subsequent varnish coats or with a mist coat of MLT. But, better to avoid and I prefer not mask until it has had a chance to dry and typically leave overnight. If it is something I want to get onto quickly, I'll let it alone for a couple of hours to largely flash off then use a hair dryer. Leave it again and then apply a de-tacked mask very lightly and remove soon after painting. 

 

Sorry I am late to the party. Seems everything is back on track. 

 

Ray

Thank you for all of that information, Ray  I really should have bought the Tamiya tape next to it rather than trying to cheap out, lesson learnt there! I used the IPA in fully understanding that it'd remove the acrylics underneath as well, but it was probably the least damaging of all the solvents I have. I'll look out for some naphtha now though. The RLM 04 had had a full 5 days to dry since I last worked on the model, at least partially for that reason.

 

I sanded back the wing joint and applied some filler last night, I'll give it a day or so before I try sanding it back. Fingers crossed...

 

James

[81-er]

Thankfully my fix worked, so I was able to get the masking finished and the marble layer done:

 

 

 

I thought I’d be brave and practice my freehand camo (spoiler, it needs work!). RLM 62 on:

 

 

And the RLM 61:

 

 

 

 

While I’m pretty happy with it in terms of having managed to get a reasonably neat job, it’s a bit of an iffy representation of the scheme. Thankfully the bits that are the most off are the areas that the Xtradecal sheet say are out of the shot. I still went back and did some touch-ups though:

 

 

 

And with that, it was time to unmask:

 

 

 

Looking pretty good, though I’ve learnt the folly of using wet tissue masking for wheel wells after using a water-based wash. Plenty of tissue fibre removal in my future! However, there’s another attempt to be made at the tail band before that.

 

James

[Marklo]

That camo is looking very good, James.

Edited April 13, 2023 by Marklo