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Friedrichshafen FF 33 E in 1/48 from Techmod


dov

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Hallo

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This is my Friedrichshafen FF 33 E in 1/48 from Techmod.

Here I also have etched parts from Part.

Now, I started today with this subject.

Now, I am playing with the idea to use the etched parts also for rigging.

The point is, that holes have to be made at all rigging parts.

The other option is to work without etched parts in my already well proved version.

See example on my Gotha G.1.

On the right plastic part of the fuselage I have a detail.

The opening for the front cabane strut is too big, and so I reduced it by filling it.

Here I have to drill later on for the cooling piping.

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So far

 

Happy modelling

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Hallo

 

So, to my disapointment I have to realize that the etched parts from PART are not corresponding.

The width of the framework does not correspond with the bulkheads in front & frear.

There is between 1 and 2 mm error.

I read yesterday that someone who made this interior framwork had to thin out enormously the interior fuselage halfs.

So, now a good idea is requested.

The bottom part has the same with, also this is wrong too!

I supose to make my own interior as a  hybrid design by myself.

Rigging, I would do without etched parts and by my own method.

As you see on the Gotha.

 

Happy modelling

 

 

 

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Hallo

 

Now, after some days some progress again.

As I told already, the etched parts are used to optimize the model.

Since there is a major flaw in design as described already before, I only can use some of them.

Interior parts some, external as the wheel for the antenna sideward, the cooling grill, the seam of the opening for steering cables and some others as compass.

The wings altogether are glued together with 2 0,8mm brass wire as spar.

Also the underwing to save the fuselage from the big bending moment.

To get fuselage seams stress free.

 

The struts: In reality do you have an idea what they look like?

What they are made of?

They are in most cases hollow and are so thin and brisk that most care has to be taken.

They are to my knowledge the absolute the most lightweight item of a WW1 aircraft.

Therefore many designs got a bandage to make them more reliable against buckling.

The etched parts are too less and very tricky to get them on the strut without leaving any cyanide glue anywhere else on the strut.

So I decided the most easy way to use pre-cut Eduard strips.

Secured by CA glue afterward at the end.

 

What I see at this design:

There are so many shortcomings in design of the kit, that a beginner in modelling is a poor individual if he chooses this kit.

A beginner, whoever and wherever this individual lives has to face impossible fitting problems.

You never can overcome it without special tools, special products or whatever.

It is no kit which has the attribute to be build straight from the box.

I consider, that it would be a truthful comment, that any kit which does not fulfill this attribute ready to be built OOB should be special marked.

Just considering all our frustrated followers & all frustration caused by such a kit on youngsters!

 

Happy modelling

 

 

 

 

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Hallo

 

Now I drilled all holes for eyelets to set. 96 holes I have yet.

But, the thing is, that the FF-33 E, and my particular model, have different rigging during service live!

Specially the cabane rigging center top downward, and the floats in width!

Maybe I will do the rigging on the floats width! I am yet not sure. 96 eyelets I need without them, 100 with them.

Anyway all the pre-glueing on the struts of floats is done. It fitts to the aircraft so far.

 

Happy modelling

 

 

 

 

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Hallo

 

A lot of spraying and detail work.

The fuselage interior was a heavy thing.

To spray wood and linnen was the fast jop.

But masking for the wooden framework took a lot of time.

The details from the kit are on one side supewriore and on the other side the pure hell.

It just depends which part you take.

To forsee the future is impossible. With fitting subjects specially.

 

Anyway I prepared my floats and gave the underwater surface a black shade.

The wings I did the same with the ribs.

 

Tomorrow all ribs are masked with a thin Eduard strip. Lots of work.

Than all parts are sprayed with a base coat of aircraft grey gloss from Gunze C color.

If this is done, masks off and final pint. Some shade like RLM 76.

 

Well, tomorrow I know more.

 

And I must produce 100+ eyelets for rigging!

 

Happy modelling

 

 

 

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Hallo

 

After spraying base color C 73 gloss aircraft grey and removing the masking strips.

I am not sure if I will use as top color RLM 76 or C 307 (i.e. FS36320) or C 308 (i.e. 36375).

 

Beside spraying the 100 eylets I have to produce. So, next week more.

 

Happy modelling

 

 

 

 

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Hallo

 

The main paint job is done. With RLM 65 (C 115) and Gloss varnish of GX 112.

Tomorrow again gloss varnish on top of decals. Maybe a little bit reducing the gloss.

Mainly on the fuselage. With GX 114.

Some additionals of details have to be dóne also.

And 100 eyelets fabricated and placed.

 

Happy modelling

 

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Hallo

 

Now, eylets are placed at the floats, fuselage and bottom wing.

The instruction fails to show some positions.

The bottom rear fuselage position is missing and the rear top fuselage position is missing for roigging the top wing.

 

With the decals I got wrong because the instruction has a stubid flaw.

Port side correct and star side wrong.

I started with star side!

 

To late to correct!

 

Happy modelling

 

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Hallo

 

The assembling of the top wing with struts is not so straight forward.

The tolerances of the cabane struts makes life more difficult.

It is a trial and error proces.

With some sweat and headache it worked.

 

Happy modelling

 

 

 

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