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How do I even produce a stl file for my car ?


Cklasse

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I am very keen to produce a 1/24 scale of my car since Aoshima, Fujimi and Tamiya are not making any new normal cars. 
I guess it is possible to draw the car using Fusion360 but it will be tedious. I wonder what’s a better and efficient way to produce the file?

I am beginning to learn Fusion360 and very new to 3D printing.

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Edited by Cklasse
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Fusion may not be the best weapon for car exteriors. It’s great for oily bits and engineering stuff, there are probably better tools for bodywork. I would start with Blender personally as it’s free. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The best, and fastest, way to generate a model of your car is to get it 3D scanned. A whole car is a big project though, which will be reflected in the costs.

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The best basic tutorial I found for Fusion is by Arnold Rountree on youtube.

To create an stl file, get the subject that you want on screen (you can hide elements that aren't relevant). Right click on the component name and select "save as mesh". That brings up a screen menu, and the type of format to select is stl (binary).

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Cklasse

 

I agree with nick's comment above, that Blender is probably a good place to start - those parametric engineering-style modelling tools are better for less organic shapes. BUT - designing and printing anything as complicated as a car at 1/24th scale isn't going to be quick or easy. I've spent faaar too long on my 1/24th Piper Tomahawk and it's very much still under development:

 

72be8c032b3ecef9c89158b7bd603332.jpg

 

You'll also need to have a think about how you want to produce the transparencies - I'm personally intending to vac-form the canopy, as direct 3D printing, even with clear resins, won't produce a clean enough result, and making moulds and casting in resin seems like a lot of trouble (but may end up being the best bet, if vac-forming doesn't go well).

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On 2/14/2023 at 4:06 PM, Woadism said:

Hi Cklasse

 

I agree with nick's comment above, that Blender is probably a good place to start - those parametric engineering-style modelling tools are better for less organic shapes. BUT - designing and printing anything as complicated as a car at 1/24th scale isn't going to be quick or easy. I've spent faaar too long on my 1/24th Piper Tomahawk and it's very much still under development:

 

72be8c032b3ecef9c89158b7bd603332.jpg

 

You'll also need to have a think about how you want to produce the transparencies - I'm personally intending to vac-form the canopy, as direct 3D printing, even with clear resins, won't produce a clean enough result, and making moulds and casting in resin seems like a lot of trouble (but may end up being the best bet, if vac-forming doesn't go well).

Wow that's stunning!!

I learned to fly in one of them.  Echo Sierra Hotel  wonderful memories except for stalling! LOL

 

Keep me posted on your progress somehow please?

 

Cheers Anthony

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3 hours ago, Anthony in NZ said:

Wow that's stunning!!

I learned to fly in one of them.  Echo Sierra Hotel  wonderful memories except for stalling! LOL

 

Keep me posted on your progress somehow please?

 

Cheers Anthony

Yes, very cool model! I only flew the Traumahawk a few times. I seem to recall that during a stall, the whole tail shook like it was going to depart the airplane! 😮
 

Ben

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18 hours ago, Ben Brown said:

Yes, very cool model! I only flew the Traumahawk a few times. I seem to recall that during a stall, the whole tail shook like it was going to depart the airplane! 😮
 

Ben

Yes Ben, my instructor told me not to look, so of course I did lol.

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Just to echo what others have said.... complex curves in blender, mechanical parts etc in Fusion360 is my method. Although with lofting and forms you can get complex curves to work in Fusion 360 as well but so far it's been more of a faff than in blender.

 

Ben that's an awesome model of the traumahawk.... I have it on my list of subjects to model and then 3D print as a gift for my father in law (he learnt to fly in one).

Any chance you'll be selling access to the stl files for it when you are done? I'd certainly be interested so I could print one and build it for my father-in-law. Not sure I could do a better job if I tried anyway.

 

In terms of transparencies I assume you plan to make the vac-form puck by 3D printing it then vacforming over it? If I was doing it I'd make it at full size then use the solidify modifier in blender to add a set thickness to it. That way you could keep a master copy and alter the thickness value in the solidify modifier until you get the perfect fit in the vac form which takes into account the vac form plastic thickness. Would that work or is there a better way?

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

For the question of printed glazing:

 

The varnish has the particularity of removing the slightly yellow color of the print.

 

For my part, I sprayed several layers (3) of pro varnish car paint ultra shiny 2K spray.

 

The result is amazing. I sand a little before with the 1000 to remove the printing layers still visible. It is necessary to print at 20 microns of course.

 

https://www.peinturevoiture.fr/3362-vernis-ecar-aerosol-2k.html


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No need to hit the hardener cartridge at the bottom of the can, it works fine without it, so you can use it later for other parts. I use a Motip spray can diffuser, which have a smaller flow rate, more suitable for small parts.

 

It takes two to three days to dry, but you can apply the coats 1 hour after the previous one.

 

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20230311111506.png

 

20230311112629.png
 

Screenshot-2022-07-27-15-04-37-457.jpg
 

 

 

 

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On 2/22/2023 at 10:38 AM, Flying Badger said:

...In terms of transparencies I assume you plan to make the vac-form puck by 3D printing it then vacforming over it? If I was doing it I'd make it at full size then use the solidify modifier in blender to add a set thickness to it. That way you could keep a master copy and alter the thickness value in the solidify modifier until you get the perfect fit in the vac form which takes into account the vac form plastic thickness. Would that work or is there a better way?

 

 

That was the basic plan, but those clear prints are pretty convincing!

 

At the moment I have plans to (eventually) sell it as a printed kit, rather than as a digital file.

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