Glue!?

[themcgarvie]

Been using Tamiya Extra Thin, and fairly happy.

 

But, wondering/thinking if that is the best option? While fairly happy think sometimes want something less runny.

 

Sometimes think something more gloopy/sticky might be better?

Edited January 4, 2023 by themcgarvie

[John Laidlaw]

If you're after something thicker, I'd recommend Revell Contacta in the package with the needle applicator:

 

 

It works better for some situations, so it's not a replacement, more an addition to what you already use. Also worth getting a sewing pin to keep in the tube and stop the glue clogging it.

[Casey]

I'd second @John Laidlaw there. Tamiya thin + Contacta are my favorites too. You also need a zippo lighter or box of matches for that last one to unclog the inevitable clogged needle

 

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

Personally I use several depending on the need. Most of the time I use Tamiya extra thin, but also use the old fashioned tube cement for hidden connections. Its stronger and more flexible. I also have a couple of C/A’s (superglue) one is quick setting 10-15 second’s. Then I have medium with setting time of 20-30 seconds. Last up I use a Gel type C/A in a tube. For similar reasons to the tube cement. 

[Ray_W]

Add Tamiya white cap cement 87003 to your arsenal. You will be happy. 

 

Ray

[dromia]

My preferred liquid glue is MEK, I then make my own thicker viscosity cement by dissolving pieces of runner in the MEK.

 

Gave up on tamiya extra thin year ago as it was no use for any serious work as it just led to sprung seams.

 

My preferred commercial liquid cement is MEK PAK far superior to the Tamiya in strength of bond.

 

I mainly use cement of a consistency a little thicker than the current crop of tube cements, the liquid stuff gets used far less.

[Stew Dapple]

Another vote for the Revell Contacta Poly here  

 

Cheers.

 

Stew

[Paul821]

Until last year I would have said Revell Contacta, however we gained a new LMS who stocks the Delux Materials range and I tried their Plastic Kit Glue.

 

https://deluxematerials.co.uk/collections/scale-plastics/products/plastic-kit-glue

 

Less runny than Contacta and cures faster. The only downside is the application tip is not as fine as Contacta. It's now my standard glue.

[John Laidlaw]

On 1/5/2023 at 2:21 AM, Paul821 said:

Until last year I would have said Revell Contacta, however we gained a new LMS who stocks the Delux Materials range and I tried their Plastic Kit Glue.

 

https://deluxematerials.co.uk/collections/scale-plastics/products/plastic-kit-glue

 

Less runny than Contacta and cures faster. The only downside is the application tip is not as fine as Contacta. It's now my standard glue.

I got some to try after your recommendation. Haven't used it much yet, but it seems to do the job well.

[Pin]

On 1/4/2023 at 11:27 PM, themcgarvie said:

But, wondering/thinking if that is the best option? While fairly happy think sometimes want something less runny.

 

Define "best". 
I constantly use at least 6 different types of glue, three types of CA with different viscosity (thin, regular, gel), pure MEK as 30-times-cheaper alternative to "Tamiya extra thin", regular "plastic" cement and purified PVA for transparencies. There is no "one size fits all" solution. 

[busnproplinerfan]

I had the contacta once but the glue dried in the metal tube. Usually use medium gap filling CA and regular testors cement.

[Lewis95]

Okay.... so the run down of my glues for you in case it helps: 

 

Tamiya Extra Thin - My standard go to. Perfect for most work. Very runny but gets the job done. 

 

Tamiya Extra Quick Setting - Mainly use this for touching up seams quickly and cockpit parts. No good for things like joining fuselage halves as it gases off too quickly.

 

Tamiya Cement - Thicker than TET. Great for heavier duty jobs that TET just won't cut.

 

Revell Contacta - Great for large surfaces. VERY strong so if you muck up then you're stuffed. However, the needle clogs. The go to is to use a lighter to clear it out but, somehow, I set the needle on fire and that needle heats up REAL quick. So not only did I burn myself, the applicator also ended up melting its way into a stray bit of polystyrene that I use for spraying small parts. 

 

Deluxe Rocket Hot CA - Great for non-precision stuff such as Liquid Gravity. Tubes tend to seize up fairly quickly.

 

Gorilla Glues CA (Various) - All seized after a single use. Waste of money. 

[PatG]

I now always use Slaters Mek Pac liquid cement for fuselage and wing joints as it provides an extremely good bond, where as the Tamiya thin stuff often results in sprung joints and having to re-affix which is less than ideal.

 

I also use a variety of 'super glues' as in thin, medium, thick and gel depending upon what is required, plus I often add some Revell Contacta to reinforce areas which don't fit together perfectly and require clamping/taping.

 

Pat.

 

[Solexman]

EMA Plastic weld.

[MrMellie]

I'm also a lover of Revell Contacta, although use less extreme methods to unblock the nozzle - it simply requires some 0.5mm diameter wire (I have plenty of sections of brass rod that size). Nothing catches fire or melts that way.

 

I also use pure butanone aka MEK (note for anyone not aware Slaters MEK-PAK has not been butanone for some time now and is a completely different formula) for where I need to run something into thin joints. I get it from places like APC Pure (apcpure.com), 500ml for £10 vs £7 for 50ml of branded "modelling" products.

 

Superglue-wise, I get small bottles from Toolstation/Screwfix in both General Purpose (thin) and High Viscosity types. Keeps a long while in the fridge, just don't put it on your dinner.

[ckw]

On 17/01/2023 at 00:26, Lewis95 said:

Gorilla Glues CA (Various) - All seized after a single use. Waste of money

Strange - that's my go to CA, never had any problems, with bottles lasting months. In fact I've never had to throw away an unfinished bottle. My methodology is to make a little pool on a plastic tray (I use the lids from cotton bud boxes) and apply with a cocktail stick. The glue remains viable on the tray for a surprisingly long time (many minutes). It also works well with talc to use as filler (though it sets pretty quick - perhaps 1 min. max).

 

Otherwise I use a standard  Tamiya Cement and Extra Thin Cement, and occasionally tube Revell Contacta. 

 

Cheers

 

Colin

[ckw]

Forgot to say - Tamiya stuff has been hard to get locally for the last few months, and as I'm running low I've just ordered some MEK as a possible alternative

 

Cheers

 

Colin

[Lewis95]

On 04/09/2023 at 11:33, ckw said:

Strange - that's my go to CA, never had any problems, with bottles lasting months. In fact I've never had to throw away an unfinished bottle. My methodology is to make a little pool on a plastic tray (I use the lids from cotton bud boxes) and apply with a cocktail stick. The glue remains viable on the tray for a surprisingly long time (many minutes). It also works well with talc to use as filler (though it sets pretty quick - perhaps 1 min. max).

 

Otherwise I use a standard  Tamiya Cement and Extra Thin Cement, and occasionally tube Revell Contacta. 

 

Cheers

 

Colin

Really? I wholeheartedly would not recommend it. I use the same type of methodology (albeit, on Tamiya tape as the coating apparently keep the glue workable for longer) but still found every tube of Gorilla to seize. I even had a tube seize up after opening when I realized I opened the wrong tube (needed some runny stuff for Liquid Gravity). 

When it comes to CA, I wholeheartedly WOULD recommend buying 4 for £1 in your local bargain shop. At one use, they're a much softer blow if they seize. 

[ckw]

On 11/09/2023 at 00:48, Lewis95 said:

When it comes to CA, I wholeheartedly WOULD recommend buying 4 for £1 in your local bargain shop. At one use, they're a much softer blow if they seize. 

I do use that too when I need something really runny - but I found the stuff to be useless when mixed with talc as a filler - set instantly. Can over no explanation for our different experience with Gorilla. My current bottle is now around 3 months old.

 

Cheers

 

Colin

[PatG]

With modeling I've discovered you need to use a variety of glues to meet differing needs.

 

These include liquid and thicker (traditional) poly, CA (thick and thin), PVA, Epoxy Resin, G-S Hypo  (canopies), to name just a few so it's all a bit confusing, so no panacea I'm afraid.

 

The best liquid glue IMHO is Slaters Mek-Pak as it runs really well into all the joints and seams and forms a really strong bond, but I'm sure others may disagree or have their own preferences.

 

HTH.

 

Pat.

 

Ps. just to add that all CA glues 'go off' after a while and lose their bite/grip so best to buy a small bottle, unless you knock out quite a few kits each year to make it worth while.

Edited September 16, 2023 by PatG