KeithAnthony Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 (edited) 1 hour ago, PaulP said: But where the heck is DCB-17, Well found - and looks good in blue! I struggled with that,too! A simple cross reference would save the frustration! Edited February 22 by KeithAnthony 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flintstone Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 3 hours ago, KeithAnthony said: Finished for now. Have not fitted mirrors yet as I do not like seem line and have yet to be convinced what colour to paint them. That said, OOB colour of mirrors doesn't match anything. Have enjoyed the build and hopefully they will do a version in Gold Leaf colours (red,white and gold). (Just noticed cockpit cowl seems to have popped up at front - I have not glued as it holds quite well when clipped in.) The 72 looks really good! 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malc2 Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 (edited) 1 hour ago, KeithAnthony said: Yep - they are pre-painted gold in kit, but have a mould line that needs sanding out before repainting. It is finding the correct shade of gold I am stuck on. IRL they are the same colour as the gold on the rest of the car, but I think you are saying that you can't find a paint that matches the gold on the model? Guess you will have to mix your own and spray them. M. Edited February 22 by Malc2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 Talking of colours... The next challenge is this interesting area of plumbing in front of the engine. It's complicated, but if you're methodical, at least the instructions in revised form are reasonably clear, and accurate. These are the parts. A lot of small pieces of tube come into play as well. One thing that the reference picture makes clear is that the colours of many of the parts as provided are just not right. The connectors aren't black, and that cylindrical thing is not gold (not to mention that the way the parts are sprayed leaves visible bits unpainted. So, it's out with the Humbrol Metalcote. I swear by Polished Steel. Out of the can it's dull grey, but by varying how much you buff it, you can get every finish from rough cast iron to dark chrome. It's also self-highlighting and shading, though I'm going to help it along a bit. The nearest turret is just polished Metalcote. The silver, red and blue fitting is as provided. The far cylinder is Tamiya Dark Copper, washed with Citadel "Devlan Mud", and bolts touched in with silver pen. The darker gizmo is Metalcote, burnished for the strap, washed with Citadel Nuln Oil at the complicated end and "Black Templar" contrast paint for the main body. You can see the different shades more clearly here (I must clean those darn tubes....) The revised instructions have a line drawing of this, but it's a lot clearer in high resolution and living colour... Gonna leave the glue to cure thoroughly before I make the final tube connections. best, M. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griph Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 On 27/12/2022 at 22:31, cmatthewbacon said: Well, my family were very kind to me this year, so here goes... Wow lucky guy! That must have been a significant birthday, mine cost me >£700!! I agree on the instructions, they are very poor, just exploded images for each stage, and even with the updated PDF instructions (which pick up so many errors in part referencing) the resolution of the images is so poor that you cant zoom in (without significant pixilation) to see exactly where from and to small parts go. An element of guess work is needed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulP Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Well done Keith it looks fabulous 👍👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griph Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 On 13/01/2023 at 21:28, moxie2207 said: I managed to get the tyres on relatively easily by softening them up on the radiator for about 10 minutes. You have to use practically all your weight to get them over the wheels, but it does happen eventually, and they look impressive once done (slight adjustment needed to top left wheel, tyre not properly seated).. The best way is to soak the tyres in hot (not boiling) water for about 5 minutes, until the tyres can be easily squeezed. Once done it is relatively easy to push in the rims. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griph Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 18 hours ago, Flintstone said: The 72 looks really good! Brilliant work, well done! Thank you for sharing the images, the model looks amazing! The seat belts were, from looking at the instructions, a complete mystery to me. I've made a note of how they should look from your detail, for when I get to that stage. In terms of the decals on the upper torso belts, did you do anything special to get them to stick down? I am assuming that the cross stitching are decals also? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griph Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 14 hours ago, cmatthewbacon said: Talking of colours... Thank you Matthew, these images are like gold dust to builders who are struggling to understand Pocher's less than stellar attempt at instructions. Regards David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griph Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 On 19/02/2023 at 17:04, cmatthewbacon said: Well, my repair to the broken link is holding....so far. Thanks Matthew! Very helpful, glad you got the link repaired, something that worries me in advance of getting to some of the tiny parts. I was in the process of fitting part K16 with tweezers -it was so small, no way were my fingers going to achieve it! The @&$£$ piece jumped out of the tweezers and whizzed off somewhere in the room! Haven't found it despite several searches! Unless I can make something I'm going to have to ask Hornby Hobbies customer support to supply a new piece (hopefully in a bag)!! Im sure this wont be the first time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griph Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 On 12/02/2023 at 22:36, cmatthewbacon said: Having baked the tyres on the radiator for at least 6 hours, I thought I'd get these done as well. Normal polystyrene cement doesn't touch the plastic, but good old EMA Plastic Weld does the trick, so I suspect the mouldings are actually ABS... The "outstanding" rim on the front is prototypical, and doesn't actually look as obvious as it does here... Hi Matthew I'm new here, but really enjoying your posts! Thank you for taking the time to do so! Such detail, it is quite overwhelming! Your images will vastly help me with my build, to make sense of the poor instruction manual! I soaked my tyres is very hot water (not boiling) for about 5 minutes and that worked very well. CA glue seemed to be fine fixing the plastic rim sections together. The tyres were soft enough that it was easy to push them in to the tyres. One question I would appreciate help with though - thanks for clarifying the front rim projection is prototypical, as I did wonder. But should this be on the outer or inner face of the wheel, or both? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithAnthony Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 4 hours ago, Griph said: how they should look Post on 30th Jan on pg.3 is best help. You may need to ask for more of the widest belt. Yes, 'over stitching' is a transfer. The transfers do not want to lie well, so I used Micro Sol.The belt soon became saturated but it dries out ok.and transfer sticks well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griph Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 3 minutes ago, KeithAnthony said: Post on 30th Jan on pg.3 is best help. You may need to ask for more of the widest belt. Yes, 'over stitching' is a transfer. The transfers do not want to lie well, so I used Micro Sol.The belt soon became saturated but it dries out ok.and transfer sticks well. Ah excellent Keith - thank you, I will give that post a look. I assume Pocher are quite open to asking for additional materials? I will definitely use Micro Sol. Kind regards Griph! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griph Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 On 28/01/2023 at 21:05, KeithAnthony said: If I was building this part again, I would leave the fuel injectors to later in the build, as they make handling more difficult.. Yes I can see that would have been beneficial, however, I have already fixed them. They don't seems to be overly fragile? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griph Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 On 30/01/2023 at 16:55, KeithAnthony said: Hi Keith Thank you for directing me to this post of yours! This is extremely useful as the Pocher instructions are woeful! A few questions - I hope you don't mind? - I assume the belt is passed through the metal fitting and then back on itself and CA glued? - Although you have helpfully included the belts on a scaled mat, I'm not sure of what scale it is - was it Imperial or Metric? Many thanks Regards Griph Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griph Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 On 31/01/2023 at 21:47, cmatthewbacon said: This is the gotcha -- I didn't test assemble, and discovered... although the instructions aren't clear, you need to put the lower section, with pumps, in place in the Y-shaped end moulding first, and then slide each side along and into position before screwing it to the end. That way the tubes mounted on the side at the bottom (Long and Short, as now noted into the instructions) can plug into the appropriate socket on the other parts. Yeah, I wasn't sure myself either, but without the lower section in place it felt like juggling cats, so sorted it out. The lack of clear sequence of installation is a real pain! Pocher could learn a lot from its cousin, Airfix in that regard. I've had better instructions on how to build a shed! 🙂, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithAnthony Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 (edited) Yes, wrap round and a spot of ca. You will need to hold till set because of 'spring' in belt material, either with tweezers or a small clip (care needed as ca can seep through material). The 2-3-4 are inches, the 10 -29 are cm's. I didn't find Pochers suggested lengths that accurate in either original or revised instructions, Best to work slowly and try yourself in car. The main belts are the only critical pair. Edited February 23 by KeithAnthony 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griph Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 On 04/02/2023 at 19:15, cmatthewbacon said: Which cable or tube are you working on? best, M. I'm using fine fuse wire down the tube to make them more formable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 2 hours ago, Griph said: I assume Pocher are quite open to asking for additional materials? The answer I received today: Thank you for your email. It has come to light that a number of kits were short of the seatbelts (SB-1) required to complete the model. We are working with our suppliers to be able to supply extra stock of this part which we are expecting shortly. Due to this, we currently have no stock of the part however we have added your information to our waiting list, and when the parts are available we will contact you to let you know that they have been dispatched. We apologize for this, and ask for your patience while the parts are sent to us. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griph Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 5 minutes ago, Dinky said: The answer I received today: Thank you for your email. It has come to light that a number of kits were short of the seatbelts (SB-1) required to complete the model. We are working with our suppliers to be able to supply extra stock of this part which we are expecting shortly. Due to this, we currently have no stock of the part however we have added your information to our waiting list, and when the parts are available we will contact you to let you know that they have been dispatched. We apologize for this, and ask for your patience while the parts are sent to us. Interesting! Thanks for sharing that! One of the biggest issues is there is no parts list, so we don’t know what we should have unless discovered during making the model. The first issue I had was no screws were in my pack, so I literally couldn’t start the build! Think Pocher need to look at the packing quality control, as well as their instructions! It’s a shame because this model is amazing! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithAnthony Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 (edited) 55 minutes ago, Dinky said: that a number of kits Like all! This must be a logistics problem for them in the short term as you would not expect the number of spares held to equal the number of kits. At least the leg belts (which is what is missing) can be added later, and should not delay anyone's build. Edited February 23 by KeithAnthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 Deck plumbing and the first bout of work on the tub now completed. All the tubes in the proper places, for comparison with the instructions. And I think it looks pretty reasonable in comparison to the real thing. Don't forget these two internal sills for the cockpit in this section before moving on! best, M. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 Time to start the front subframe These are the lower shock absorber mounts. I'm not sure why they are W-shaped rather than U-shaped, but I dare say I'll find out in a few pages. First calliper constructed. The front black V-shaped part is an additional mounting bracket, the rear is the brake line connector, I think. Busy weekend, so progress is likely to be slow the next few days... best, M. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griph Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 16 hours ago, KeithAnthony said: Yes, wrap round and a spot of ca. You will need to hold till set because of 'spring' in belt material, either with tweezers or a small clip (care needed as ca can seep through material). The 2-3-4 are inches, the 10 -29 are cm's. I didn't find Pochers suggested lengths that accurate in either original or revised instructions, Best to work slowly and try yourself in car. The main belts are the only critical pair. Ah thanks Keith, that is much appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schummie Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 The manual is updated again, and now in 4 parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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