brady Posted January 30, 2023 Share Posted January 30, 2023 1 hour ago, cmatthewbacon said: Does anyone know if the fine-thread A screws and coarser-pitch B screws are aimed at one material or the other? Instinct suggests the one should screw into plastic pieces and the other into metal, but it doesn't seem to work like that in the call-outs. One handy hint that I should have remembered sooner from when I built the Meng "snap-together" bike kit: if you have any small magnets about the bench (mine came from some paint racks which could be use them to stack together), if you pop one onto your screwdriver slightly above the tip, it will pick up and then lock the screws into place on the bit. Handy for precise targeting. The coarse thread screws "should" be for plastic parts, and the finer thread ones for metal. You can also use an inexpensive magnetizer to magnetize the whole screwdriver to the degree necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orso Posted January 31, 2023 Share Posted January 31, 2023 I had a look in the two books from MFH searching for pictures of the cockpit. In the 1973-1975 book I found nothing so I went to the 1970-1972 book and found a picture of the 1972 car. Sadly it was in black and white but all belts looked like they had the same colour. Later I found a picture from 1970 in colour. There was ha big heap of belts. Impossible to make out which was a hip and which was crotch-belt but they were all blue. I wouldn't trust the Haynes book to much. It is hard to tell if it is original or restored cars on the pictures. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky Posted January 31, 2023 Share Posted January 31, 2023 12 hours ago, brady said: In period photos the front rims do look a bit wider than the tires, but not to the extent of the ones in the kit: That is a good find, didnt realise that! Still the Pocher is wider as it should be unfortunate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malc2 Posted January 31, 2023 Share Posted January 31, 2023 6 hours ago, Orso said: I had a look in the two books from MFH searching for pictures of the cockpit. In the 1973-1975 book I found nothing so I went to the 1970-1972 book and found a picture of the 1972 car. Sadly it was in black and white but all belts looked like they had the same colour. Later I found a picture from 1970 in colour. There was ha big heap of belts. Impossible to make out which was a hip and which was crotch-belt but they were all blue. Hi Orso, any chance you could post pictures of the pictures you found? I would be very grateful as I have never seen period pics of the cockpit insides. Malc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malc2 Posted January 31, 2023 Share Posted January 31, 2023 9 hours ago, cmatthewbacon said: M. Hi Matt, Thanks for these! They have solved a long standing question from me as to where and how the oil lines from the cooler under the wing actually connect to the engine! Malc, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithAnthony Posted January 31, 2023 Share Posted January 31, 2023 14 hours ago, brady said: The coarse thread screws "should" be for plastic parts, and the finer thread ones for metal. Correct. I have run a 1.6mm or 2mm tap into the castings on the Pocher 72 kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smallworld Posted January 31, 2023 Share Posted January 31, 2023 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smallworld Posted January 31, 2023 Share Posted January 31, 2023 Just experimenting with posting photos. Useful for others to have reference photos especially as I find diagrams in manual difficult to orientate at times. Probably my age… 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithAnthony Posted January 31, 2023 Share Posted January 31, 2023 53 minutes ago, Smallworld said: Just experimenting with posting photos. Useful for others to have reference photos especially as I find diagrams in manual difficult to orientate at times. Probably my age… Looking good! You have omitted the rubber gaiters - choice? Also see you have split the difference on the discs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted January 31, 2023 Author Share Posted January 31, 2023 This bit seemed to work OK, with one small gotcha of my own making. The revised instructions are correct in both part numbers and screw types! As you can see above, the exhausts have the assembly sequence numbers cast into the underside, which is a useful additional check. The tabs fixing them to the block are keyed to ensure they only fit one way. Having built a couple of these serpentine exhausts before, it's also helpful to know that the outboard ends form a neat square which will go into the collector junction. The right screw labels help a lot. I also remembered a school metalwork lesson, and tapped every receiving hole using the screw -- half a turn forward, quarter turn back until it's in -- and lubricated the hole with a tiny dab of wax. It made getting them in during the real assembly a lot easier. This is the gotcha -- I didn't test assemble, and discovered... although the instructions aren't clear, you need to put the lower section, with pumps, in place in the Y-shaped end moulding first, and then slide each side along and into position before screwing it to the end. That way the tubes mounted on the side at the bottom (Long and Short, as now noted into the instructions) can plug into the appropriate socket on the other parts. Feeling happier about this section now. best, M. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smallworld Posted January 31, 2023 Share Posted January 31, 2023 Yes! Left gaiters off after struggling to get them on and glued. Maybe more successful with rear axle. Any tips appreciated and advice as to best adhesive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toftdale Posted January 31, 2023 Share Posted January 31, 2023 (edited) Great progress and just to let you know this model features in next weeks Hornby: A model world (06/02/23 @ 20:00 hrs on the Yesterday channel) - Andy Edited January 31, 2023 by Toftdale Forgot to mention the channel 😅 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithAnthony Posted February 1, 2023 Share Posted February 1, 2023 11 hours ago, Smallworld said: Any tips appreciated and advice as to best adhesive? Patience is needed! I used four spots of VMS flexy ca black. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithAnthony Posted February 1, 2023 Share Posted February 1, 2023 Seat harness re-done with help from Stuart at Pocher 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moxie2207 Posted February 1, 2023 Share Posted February 1, 2023 5 hours ago, KeithAnthony said: Seat harness re-done with help from Stuart at Pocher Wondering how you got so much material for the harnesses. I have just about enough SB-1 to make the upper and mid ones, and a single piece of SB-2 to make one of the lower (or the cross pieces to which SB-3 is attached). Did you have to get hold of additional material from Pocher, or was I missing something? I've been in contact with Stuart too, he's been very helpful, but I'm still to get a response re this issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithAnthony Posted February 1, 2023 Share Posted February 1, 2023 44 minutes ago, moxie2207 said: Wondering how you got so much material for the harnesses Yes,the kit SB-1 contains 20cm, and you need double that. Stuart did indeed send another SB-1 as well as provide the pics posted here. I raised the fact that from the total of their own measurements in the instructions 20cm is not enough, but no explanation forthcoming! Although I quite like the way Pocher have done the decorative stitching and I have replicated it, but I have a pic in one book which shows the white stitching starting at the very top and finishing at the top of the "Willans" logo, and starting again with no gap and finishing at buckle. There is enough decal to do this if you prefer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 1, 2023 Author Share Posted February 1, 2023 The top of the block slides in along the inner edges of the cam covers, completing the Y-section. The injectors go in in pairs with the fore and aft pairs with pipe nubbins pointing towards the middle of the block. Note the banks are staggered, and Z end of the plate goes against the block end that is still to be added. Like this. The transmission fits here. The other end, where the triangle is the engine mount. A pair of dampers hang loose, awaiting the drive train. That's the end of the engine, for now, as we move on to building the transmission and rear axle. Unusual angle. Shout out to @JamesP who persuaded me to buy this weighty and handy pin-based clamp/vice thingy at SMW last year, which is proving very useful! best, M. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 2, 2023 Author Share Posted February 2, 2023 Not quite as straightforward as I'd have liked it to be, but got there in the end. It's just hard to hold the callipers in to screw them home. I think the order is build both discs (I went for the square-hole orientation) and fix them to their respective side pieces, then add each calliper (I tried putting in one screw and rotating the calliper onto the disc after adding the disc later, but that doesn't work). I got one calliper to hold with the E screws prescribed, but had to use longer Fs for the other one to get it to stay in place, for some reason. Then add the plastic piece J-10 to bottom panel. Push the bottom panel onto one side and slide the top ?-section piece into its sockets on the same side. Finally add the second side and fix with the two screws. The aligment of the bottom panel is very slightly off but I'll fettle that if needed later. best, M. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithAnthony Posted February 3, 2023 Share Posted February 3, 2023 17 hours ago, cmatthewbacon said: but got there in the end. Self - adhesive cork as used as underlay for OO gauge railway track is perfect thickness for brake pads, otherwise there is a rather large gap. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithAnthony Posted February 4, 2023 Share Posted February 4, 2023 On 02/02/2023 at 22:20, cmatthewbacon said: Not quite as straightforward I would advise loose fitting DC-44 x2 before glueing DCA-2, as you cannot access screws with DCA-2 fitted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky Posted February 4, 2023 Share Posted February 4, 2023 Neat all those photos and explanation, I have a small addition. When mounting the rear shock absorber bracket (DCB-11 and 12 on page 8), make sure that the thick part is on the outside, otherwise it will be crooked. Of course the same applies to the right side. I also have a question to the people that completed the rear side, How visible is the silver part of the exhaust collector, especially the seams and the screw hole when everything is assembled? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smallworld Posted February 4, 2023 Share Posted February 4, 2023 Can someone advise the best method for putting bend in cables? I’ve tried heat - both boiling water and a naked flame. No good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 4, 2023 Author Share Posted February 4, 2023 (edited) I'm not doing a lot of painting or weathering, but the walkaround book I have and the Haynes manual both show the outer edges of the discs as rusted, so some MiG pigment has been applied. It's not as pink and shiny as it looks in pictures. Also added a nod to brake pistons/pads. This bit works as the instructions would have it. Not sure what this is, but the fit of the shaft into the main cylinder is very sloppy. I wrapped the end in some aluminium tape to get a firm, centered, joint. And here it is in place. Despite the instructions, the screws that hold the arms into the H piece go in from the outside, not inside the arms. That's good, because you can access them, and they slide easily through the outer hole and self-tap into the inner. The other way they wouldn't be fixed at the end. EDIT: At this stage, I would assemble the H piece and rods, but leave it off the model. You can add it much later, when fitting the wheel carriers, and those rods are vulnerable throughout the next stages of the build. I broke one at the last minute before fitting the second wheel carrier, and it is a pain to fix! best, M. Edited February 19, 2023 by cmatthewbacon Better hard-earned advice 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 4, 2023 Author Share Posted February 4, 2023 55 minutes ago, Smallworld said: Can someone advise the best method for putting bend in cables? I’ve tried heat - both boiling water and a naked flame. No good! Which cable or tube are you working on? best, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moxie2207 Posted February 4, 2023 Share Posted February 4, 2023 (edited) On 30/01/2023 at 17:58, Dinky said: I meant the vent holes indeed, thanks for the seatbelt pictures thats going to be helpful. Part of a photo I saw passing by online, here you see that the front rims are wider than the tire which looks a bit weird. @moxie2207 You mounted your rims and tires, how do they look for you? Hey @Dinky , the tyres look okay on the rims - managed to get a photo uploaded on page 2 I think. Am not at the stage of putting them on the vehicle yet, as I've been waylaid with the harnesses (lack of material). Just about through that now, so should be on the final stages in the next day or so. Will post some pictures then. Edited February 4, 2023 by moxie2207 Name correction 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now